Plumbing in the apartment from scratch. Do-it-yourself plumbing installation: a detailed guide for beginners and professionals (90 photos)

Professional plumbing in a new building is carried out by qualified private craftsmen registered on the Yudu website. When purchasing an apartment in a new building, the standard wiring does not meet modern requirements, in which it is necessary to connect a large amount of equipment. Also, if you are planning a designer renovation in an apartment with redevelopment, then you cannot do without individual wiring.

Works of a plumber on the installation and reinstallation of water pipes and sewerage

When wiring plumbing in new buildings, craftsmen registered in Yuda use their own specialized tools. Thanks to this, specialists will be able to connect:

• water meter
• water heater
• heated towel rail
• bath, sink, shower
• washing machine

Also, plumbing in a new building can be done in the kitchen, where it is sometimes necessary to lay and move water supply and sewer pipes if you have designed a redevelopment there. Also, private plumbers can order the installation of underfloor heating, which will be performed in full accordance with the technical parameters.

Pipe laying can be done in two ways:

• hidden
• outdoor

Installing in a hidden way has a more aesthetic appearance, but it will require chasing the walls in order to make the laying inside. This method is more expensive, takes longer, but not a single pipe will be visible from the outside. It should also be borne in mind that with a hidden laying, it will be necessary to dismantle part of the wall section if an internal rupture of the pipes occurs.

With the external method, problems such as dismantling part of the wall or too dusty work will not arise, but the pipes located on the surface do not have a very attractive appearance. As a rule, they are covered with special panels, choosing an interior that is suitable in style and design. Also, when laying pipes outside, accidental damage to the pipe is possible, which can lead to high costs, especially if this happens at a time when no one is at home.

How much do plumbing jobs cost?

Experienced craftsmen are registered on the Yudu website, who set affordable prices for all their services. They carry out the wiring of plumbing in a new building for about half the price than in large repair companies in Moscow.

You can see the estimated cost of services for piping in the price list posted on the Yudu website. And the master will tell you the exact prices after receiving the following information from you:

• how many plumbing units in a new building do you plan to connect
• what kind of plumbing is needed
• installation of which pipes will you have in your apartment - plastic or metal
• what type of gasket do you need: hidden or outdoor
• order lead times

Your future comfort in the operation of plumbing equipment depends on correctly done wiring in new buildings, so use the services of only competent specialists.

Advantages of private masters

Experienced private specialists are registered on the Yudu website, whose services have a lot of advantages over specialized firms. These benefits include:

• use of modern tools and equipment
• performance of plumbing work on debugging water supply and sewerage of any complexity
• low prices for services
• the possibility of urgent wiring in new buildings by a professional team
• the ability to independently purchase all the necessary materials

If you need to install any plumbing equipment or lay new sewer pipes and water supply pipes, use the services of qualified contractors, which you can order online.

To order the services of specialists, fill out an application - it will immediately be published on the Yudu website. Interested specialists will send you their proposals with a full list of plumbing work performed and the indicated prices, and you yourself will choose a specialist who will carry out the plumbing in the new building.

Repair of a bathroom or toilet room is often associated with the replacement of plumbing equipment, as well as pipes. The procedure is very responsible and rather complicated. However, do not rush and call a plumber: with your own hands it is quite possible to competently perform the wiring and install the selected equipment. At the same time, a certain amount will be saved, which will become absolutely not superfluous for the family budget. However, in order for the result of the work to only please, you should get acquainted with the stages of plumbing work.

We plan future work

Repairs should begin with careful planning of upcoming events. - one of the most important elements that form the sewerage and water supply system. The functionality of the structure largely depends on how well it is planned and executed. During the planning phase, several important factors need to be identified.

We select the method of installation of the pipeline

Pipe laying can be carried out in a closed or open way. Both of these schemes are, in principle, equally reliable. They differ in terms of operation and maintenance. Open installation involves the installation of pipes over walls or floors. If desired, they can be hidden with various decorative designs. The main advantage is the ease of access to communications. If you need to connect new elements, maintenance or repair, you will not need to destroy the decorative coating that hides the pipes. In addition, the slightest leak or other problem will immediately become apparent and eliminated in a timely manner.

With hidden installation, pipes are mounted directly into the wall, which is certainly more aesthetically pleasing. However, the maintenance and repair of communications is very difficult. As well as inspecting parts for leaks or other problems. With hidden installation, it is advisable to install sensors that will report a water leak. In any case, in order to gain access to the pipeline, you will have to open the wall, which is the biggest disadvantage of this type of installation.

The open version of piping is the easiest to perform, maintain and repair. A non-aesthetic appearance can, if desired, be covered with decorative accessories

You may be interested in our material, which compares the tee and manifold wiring diagram:

The importance of pipe material

Experience shows that it is easiest to do it yourself with the help of polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes. These are lightweight parts that are reliable in operation, which lend themselves well to processing and are quite easy to install. To make connections of metal-plastic structures, different types of fittings or compression couplings are used, which are installed using special tongs. Due to the fact that special equipment for installation is not required, metal-plastic can be mounted even in the most inaccessible places.

Metal-plastic pipes can be connected using fittings or compression couplings. In the second case, special pliers will be needed for installation.

The connection of polypropylene pipes is carried out in the form of a welding seam. To work, you will need a special apparatus, which is best rented or borrowed from friends. This point must be taken into account when choosing pipes, since it will be almost impossible to connect polypropylene elements in hard-to-reach places. An additional argument for choosing polypropylene will be the ability to easily fix an unsuccessful joint, which is very valuable for a novice plumber.

Wiring diagram device

You can choose a scheme for diluting water pipes from two options: tee or manifold. The second is considered the most practical and convenient. It assumes that when installing plumbing in a bathroom or toilet room, each device will be connected separately, which significantly reduces pressure drops in the system and allows repairs to be made without disconnecting the pipeline. The option is characterized by extreme ease of installation and a minimum of connections, but it is more expensive than a tee scheme. It is somewhat more difficult to implement. When assembling it, experts recommend installing a shut-off valve on each of the branches from the main system so as not to block the entire structure in the event of a breakdown.

The result of planning will be a scheme for arranging plumbing equipment and piping. It is carried out after accurate measurements of the room and the devices that will be installed in it. With the help of such a plan, it will be much easier to determine all the necessary parts and their quantity, as well as to prevent possible misunderstandings with the output of installation angles during the installation of equipment. It's a good idea to number each part of the wiring in the order in which the assembly will be made. You can also make a list of all elements, indicating the type of connections and the length of the fragments.

An example of a piping layout. Performing a similar drawing on your own for ease of installation, it is best to number all the elements and indicate their dimensions

Installing plumbing in an apartment is a complex of sequential processes that require preliminary calculations and the correct selection of equipment. Installation should be approached with special responsibility, since the quality of work depends on the duration of operation of the overall system.

Preparatory work for creating a plumbing system

The first stages involve the preparation of the installation site, tools, material and accurate mathematical calculations.

Tools for laying plumbing

The required set of tools includes:

• scissors for the process of cutting pipes;
• welding soldering iron;
• pliers;
• adjustable wrenches;
• roulette;
• marker (for marking).

Drawing up a wiring diagram, taking measurements and mathematical calculations

The layout of modern apartments involves the preparation of two methods for diluting pipes (at the user's choice):

• Collector. This method is the most practical in terms of subsequent operation, but its installation requires a professional approach. During installation, an individual pipe is supplied to each equipment.
• Tee. In this case, each new branch requires the installation of an individual stainless steel shut-off valve. The main advantage of the scheme is that there is no need to turn off the entire system in the event of a breakdown in a particular plumbing fixture.

Pipes are purchased only after mathematical calculations. This process requires measurement of all areas where the pipes will run, including branches and bending angles. It is recommended to purchase pipes with a margin of 1-2 m.

Before starting installation work, you should accurately determine the location of each equipment. After choosing a site, you need to measure the place and the plumbing fixture. The results obtained must be compared with each other to determine the correspondence between the dimensions of the plumbing and the allocated space.

The right choice of materials

The quality of the plumbing system and its service life depend on the choice of components. Therefore, it is better not to save money and buy quality materials. After all, the consequences can cost more. Pipes must be made of high quality polypropylene. Fittings are recommended to be taken from stainless steel or high-quality plastic. Buy sealants from trusted manufacturers, as after a while a low-quality sealant can leak. According to SmartInoks specialists, one of the main elements in the plumbing system is stainless steel taps, since taps are exposed not only to water, but also mechanically when opening and closing. Buying faucets made of poor quality steel has a higher risk of corrosion and a greater chance of breaking under mechanical stress.

Installation of plumbing equipment and other components of the system

Before installing pipes, prepare their locations as much as possible. For the installation process, you will need scissors for trimming them, a tape measure and a welding soldering iron. It is recommended to free up space from unnecessary elements. It is mandatory to install rubber gaskets in the docking points. Their absence will lead to leaks. When installing, it should be noted that the slope of the pipes in relation to the main riser from the equipment should be within 3 cm per 1 m of the pipe. In cases where a tee system is used, stainless steel taps are required at each new branch.

Shower and bath installation

For the correct functioning of the shower cabin or bathtub, the following points should be considered during installation:

• Supply of electricity (with additional insulation from moisture), hot and cold water, sewerage;
• The outlet of the cabin sewerage according to the standard should not exceed 70 mm from the floor surface to the sewer pipe (if this parameter is exceeded, an additional installation of the podium should be carried out);
• Mandatory application of sealant to the joints.
• Drain installation involves the following processes:
  • Connecting the drain hose of the cabin or bath to the sewer drain;
  • Sealant treatment of joints;
  • Installation of a sealing gasket in the drain hole;
  • Silicone surface treatment.
• If there is a branch, a stainless steel faucet should be installed.

Installation of a sink, washbasin, washstand

What are the main points to consider when installing such equipment?

1. The correct comparison of the size of the supply pipes and the location of the washbasin, sink or sink.
2. Installation of stainless taps (if this element is included in the overall scheme of the system).
3. Sealing work should be carried out exclusively on dry fittings (it is possible to use a household hair dryer).
4. Avoid contact of hands with mating surfaces.
5. Install paronite gaskets between the plastic parts and the metal conductive pipe.
6. Trimming of standard fittings (a slight deviation during cutting will lead to leakage at the junction).
7. Mandatory application of lubricant (silicone sealant) to the gaskets.
8. According to the recommendations of SNiP, the installation height of plumbing is 80-85 cm.

Modern models of toilet bowls provide special holes for fixing the device to the floor surface. Equipment installation is carried out according to the following principle:

• Connecting the device to the sewerage using a corrugated outlet;
• Installing the corrugation seal on the outlet steamer of the toilet bowl;
• Sealing the joint between the toilet and the floor.

Connecting the water supply and sewerage requires the following steps:

• Connecting a flexible hose using a FUM tape;
• Installation of a stainless steel cut-off valve on the pipe;
• Fixing the outlet pipe into the socket of the sewer pipe.

Sewer installation

Sewer pipes are connected to the fitting with a hermetic rubber band. The percentage of the slope is from two to fifteen units - the difference between the end at the beginning and end of the pipe should be from 2 to 15 cm. When changing the direction of the sewer, the degree of turn should be greater than the straight line. Pipes providing connection to the riser must be connected at an angle of less than 45°.

Installation of a washing machine, dishwasher and other similar equipment

Installation of plumbing fixtures such as washing machines, dishwashers, etc. requires compliance with the following requirements:

• In the absence of a check valve, they are not installed without taking into account the level limit (outlet hose location) - the manufacturer specifies this parameter on an individual basis.
• Mandatory installation of a siphon to prevent leaks.
• Provision of stationary water drainage.
• The equipment is connected to the plumbing system using 3/4 inch hoses. Additionally, rubber gaskets should be installed.

Rotted old plumbing in the apartment. Perspiration on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water, and then turn it on again - rust is gushing from the taps. And it is planned to repair the kitchen with a bathroom, and the old pipes are not something to touch or breathe - it's scary to look at them. We need to change, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment plumbing with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits-designs. It will only be necessary to agree with the DEZ locksmith to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; most likely, it will be possible to manage in 10 minutes. Or warn the neighbors, if not harmful, and block / re-apply yourself.

Replacement procedure

The replacement of the water supply is carried out in a certain sequence. Work "by eye" and "on the go" in non-professional performance often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Choice of material for new pipes.
2. Choice of hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of the diameter of pipes according to the selected material and scheme.
5. Preparation of the mounting tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembly of selection and accounting units, their installation on risers and registration.
8. Dismantling of old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (with HMS is required).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

HMS, flask filter and aquastop

HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, converts impurities in water into a fine suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply and maintenance during operation, but it necessarily requires the installation of a water meter in an antimagnetic design (these are more expensive) and, after the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first one collects sludge, the second one removes chlorine, and the third one is used for fine purification of water and its softening. The latter (no one has been drinking tap water for a long time) is especially important for the washing machine boiler.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect well not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - do not be indignant, and drinking water is firmly held in the ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs that can bring its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not foreseen. In general, the salvation of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply and maintenance, but its function is different. With a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an anti-magnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new plumbing in an apartment begins with the choice of pipes. Steel in everyday life has become obsolete, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and brazed copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most responsible - the wrong choice will nullify all the efforts, expenses and troubles.

Copper

One can say about copper water pipes right away: their propagandists do not know what they are talking about. Or they know, but they don’t set themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, a person needs copper, but in negligible amounts in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper forms a protective film with chlorine from water. Absurd for anyone who remembers at least school chemistry.

Secondly, the composition of the solder for copper includes tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into its other, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, a crumbly powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And the payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly on your own.

metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but they can be connected by hand without experience. Metal-plastic plumbing is assembled on special threaded assemblies with gaskets or under crimping - fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure loss in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press tongs and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, work goes effortlessly, and with improvised means - a full guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time, the joint begins to drip. Therefore, bricking metal-plastic into walls is unacceptable, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in strobes.

It is recommended to conduct water supply with metal-plastic in separate open areas, where the minimum resistance to water flow and the possibility of a simple and quick bulkhead of the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment plumbing has now become the standard, but plastics are different. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Holds temperatures up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Pretty expensive. Used for underfloor heating.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water, polyethylene reinforced pipes are needed; ordinary polyethylene does not hold 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so that there is a possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the smallest of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice cork bursts them, and when it melts, they shrink again, and do not burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of a polyethylene water supply system is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground premises. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is needed.

PVC (PVC)

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very strong and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, come out more brittle than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and an aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC, of ​​course, is more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: heating the joint with a household hair dryer, the joint can be separated, and then glued again. In general, the option is budgetary or for a novice master with a length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest draw point of no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 sampling points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying an apartment water supply with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, properly soldered holds up to 12 atm. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but anyway, the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages when doing it yourself:

• It does not stick, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. Immured in a wall or hidden in a strobe, it can bend and break the tile, therefore, when laying each pipe, you need to put on a stocking made of merylon or synthetic winterizer, which increases the cost of work.

However, the propylene pipeline is by far the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in a lower temperature (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Propylene soldering

Soldering propylene with a handicraft “iron” soldering iron end-to-end (see the figure on the right) is unacceptable:

1. Pollution accumulates on the “sausage” inside, and the pipeline assembled in this way is more prone to clogging than steel.
2. The pressure of the water, bursting the pipes, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is surpassed, and the joint flows.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out on fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), angular, tees, crosses. The pipe heated to softening is inserted into the holder of the also heated fitting, and the joint freezes. In this case, water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the casing from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing remains for the fused zone. The rather high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clip covering the pipe to expand elastically. It is this design of the connection, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for immuring into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is still unsuitable for something, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, you do not need to buy it, it is better to rent it.

• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment in strobes or monolithic - definitely propylene.
• For branches of great length with a large number of points of water intake - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
• For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. - polyethylene.
• For budget repairs or in areas with a shortage of water, low pressure in the water supply, with poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Collectors-combs

There are two schemes for drawing water in the premises: serial and parallel. With a serial scheme, the points of analysis are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of parsing points and / or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces pressure.

In this case, the water intake is done in parallel from the “comb” collector, see fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its point of analysis. The valves regulate the pressure separately by points. The branches to the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in a single piece, they are quite reliable.

Development of a water intake scheme

The water supply scheme in the apartment is needed primarily for oneself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate, and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask you to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example - in the large figure, the water supply scheme of a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace the pipes in the apartment, you don’t need to bother like that, it’s enough that the diagram clearly shows and understands:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Stop valve.
5. Points of analysis with indication of consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

To make all this clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be observed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see fig. On the left - more or less okay, but with comments, on the right - wrong:

• The scheme on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe real location of the analysis points: the washing machine with the boiler comes out under the floor.
• There are also too many current arrows where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the circuit.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted indistinctly and not according to the rules.
• In the same place - the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the ebb?
• But in the diagram on the left, it is not even clear to a specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup. The remark will be: “Where is the check valve for hot? Without it, when the supply is stopped, the boiler will drive its own into the hot riser if the valve (10) is not closed. But this is already in essence and with full understanding.

Correct simplified plumbing scheme in the apartment

An example is arbitrarily, not according to the rules for designing design documentation, but completely understandable and without frills, the completed water intake scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of a parallel drawdown; where the combs, of course.

Pipe calculation

Before finally choosing pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not necessary for "smartness" - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, a too small diameter pipe for a water supply will cause turbulence in the flow in it. At the same time, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet from the tap it will barely ooze.

The exact calculation of the pipeline is a matter of highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, in order to flow normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum allowable pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of a 16 mm propylene pipe - 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss for apartment wiring per unit of fittings and fittings is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the selection and accounting unit - 0.25 at.
5. With normal values ​​​​of pressure at the inlet to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm, periodic turbulence is inevitable in a 12 mm pipe, and is not observed in 16 mm pipes.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least two times.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with the serial wiring of such a running pipe, there will be enough pressure for the farthest faucet or you will have to take it wider and more expensive. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from the pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate for neighbors based on the same 0.6 at / floor: if, say, three floors up from the taps, it still flows, then we have a good 2 at. But in high-rise buildings, such a trick does not work: in order not to overly increase the cost of apartment wiring, they make separate risers for the lower and upper, and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: the second floor of a nine-story building; the residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 at pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm of losses. Too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take the main pipe 20-25 mm, or get divorced in parallel from the comb, otherwise you can stay “dry” in the dry summer.

Note: from this it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable they are to lengthen and clutter up with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is non-linear: they depend on the flow velocity, which, in turn, depends on the cross section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe drastically reduces losses, so the usual 20 mm pipe wiring for apartments with taps to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that on this account there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) ". Correct - SNiP last.

Tools, materials, dismantling of the old

Special tools for assembling apartment pipelines are described above in the course of the presentation. For the purchase of materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity in place. Dismantling of old pipes is done in the usual way. It is better to do it after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off the water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not take valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you need to urgently close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. Round corrugated handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slide on them.

Accounting and control

The selection and accounting unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each of the devices indicates the direction of the water flow for it, it must be observed during assembly.

The assembly is assembled with waterproofing of the connections with the FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having previously blocked the water; Remember to close the shut-off valve before supplying water. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, requiring turning off the water supply to neighbors in the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. The meter readings should be clearly readable without any additional operations (hatch removal, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble a part of an integral pipeline, sometimes of a rather bizarre configuration, to connect metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transitional couplings from plastic to metal MPV - a threaded inner coupling. Plastic is connected to metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

The meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water at the expense. The factory seal is for this (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one gets into the meter and twists or files anything there. The factory seal must be protected; without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

When installing water meters, you need to declare to the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives, the inspector does not need zero readings, he will write down the initial ones, seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water consumption will go after registration of metering devices.

HMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow stealing water with its help, and this device cannot be sealed, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter impeller can become clogged with sludge. HMS with a flask filter is connected after metering devices; filter - immediately after HMS. An aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but it makes no sense to attribute the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: an overview of the layout options for plumbing elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we do the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has non-construction features, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should pass no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before starting pipe laying.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MRV squares for mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws in dowels. When attaching, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without a lot of building experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet nozzles flush with the wall. It is better to make them PROPERTIES above the finished wall half the width of the side of the decorative mixer caps in advance: if the caps are unregulated, they can be easily adjusted on an emery wheel or manually on an emery bar.

The next moment is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble it on the table and put it entirely in strobes. But then the question arises: how to run pipes through walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all on detachable fittings, and for brazed pipes, two methods can be offered:

• With the help of MPH / MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment, this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the strobes, you can make removable hatches for revision and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. This requires a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work in cotton gloves so as not to accidentally burn yourself.

The fourth point is soldering. One solder takes 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm etc.

The fifth point is the bending of metal-plastic pipes. The minimum allowable bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can generally bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it are much higher than the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor rusted steel.

And finally, . This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the commissioning of the water supply system. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are blocked immediately after the pipes are installed, and the pipes are additionally muffled.

Video: an example of a mounted plumbing

Outcome

Now you know how to make plumbing with your own hands. We emphasize that this work is not their difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence and hack-work.

Independent wiring of hot and cold water pipes in an apartment or house is not an easy task, but real. Even if you are going to hire a specialist, you should know the main points yourself - control will not hurt.

Today, in most cases, piping in the bathroom is made of polymer pipes - polypropylene for plumbing, PVC for sewage

How to develop a plumbing layout

First, determine the places where all consumers of cold and hot water will be located. It is better to do everything on the plan, but you can also mark it “on the spot”. Not only the geometric dimensions of the devices are important, but also the exact location of the place where the water must be brought.

Draw a plan with dimensions and distances - the first step

Many devices are connected to the water supply network using flexible hoses. Then the outlet from the line can end 10-20 cm before the device. The main thing is that the connection point is easily accessible. This is necessary for convenient and fast connection maintenance. This connection method is easier to implement - there is no need to accurately calculate the length of the pipe.

There is also a hard water supply to plumbing fixtures or household appliances - pipes to the very entrance. Such a connection is more difficult to perform, therefore this type of wiring is less common. Basically, gas water heaters (columns), bathroom faucets that are attached to the wall are connected this way.

Outdoor or concealed laying

First of all, it is worth deciding on the type of pipe laying - will they go on top or hidden in a wall or floor. Hidden wiring in the bathroom, toilet is good from an aesthetic point of view - nothing is visible. But the pipes are not available, to fix the leak you will have to break the wall, which is not at all pleasing. Therefore, they try to lay only whole pieces without joints in the wall - there is less chance of leakage.

There is another difficulty with the hidden laying of water supply - the need for channels in the wall (strobe) into which pipes are laid. Firstly, not every wall allows you to make strobes in it. For example, in panel houses, where the wall thickness is only about 10 cm, it is definitely not worth making a channel 5-6 cm deep. The slab will lose a significant part of its bearing capacity. What it threatens to explain, probably, it is not necessary. Secondly, laying a strobe in the wall is not the easiest job, even with a puncher it takes a lot of time. So there are more than enough cons for this option.

Another type of hidden pipe connection is behind a false wall. To do this, stepping back some distance from the main wall, a frame is installed, and drywall is placed on it, on which tiles are then laid. The second option for false walls is made of plastic panels.

From a practical point of view, external piping is better - everything is in sight, available for repair at any time. But the aesthetic side suffers. To hide communications, all of them - water supply and sewerage - are trying to lay closer to the floor, then they build on a plasterboard box with a removable lid or top. So all the pipes have free access, and they themselves are almost invisible.

Laying method

In an apartment or house, plumbing is done in two ways - by connecting all consumers in series or by installing a collector, from which a separate pipe goes to each of the devices. Both options are not without drawbacks.

When pipes are connected in series, it takes little, but if more than two plumbing fixtures are connected in a row, the pressure may be insufficient when they work simultaneously. This type of wiring is also called a tee - all branches from the main main pipe are made using tees (sometimes crosses or corners).

With the collector wiring of the water supply system, a lot of pipes go away, in addition, additional equipment is required - a collector for the water supply system. So this piping scheme is an expensive undertaking, but the pressure on all connected devices, regardless of the number of workers, is the same.

Parallel connection - each device has its own line from the collector

There is one more nuance: a large number of pipes have to be laid somewhere, and compactly, and this is not at all easy. Therefore, this type of wiring is more often used for hidden or open laying, but in those places that require such a connection or can be closed by furniture.

For example, in a bathroom or toilet, only two devices are connected. There you can do serial wiring. In the kitchen, a column (boiler), a sink faucet, a washing machine and a dishwasher are connected. In this case, it makes sense to put a collector in the kitchen, and from it separate branches of water supply to all consumers. This connection method is called mixed - part of the water supply is diluted with tees, part - from the collector.

Please note that if cold and hot water are distributed at the same time, the pipelines are laid in parallel. With a hidden liner, it makes sense to wrap the DHW liner in thermal insulation - then the water will really be hot and you will not heat the walls. If the pipes are polypropylene or plastic, this is not so critical - polymers have a low heat transfer coefficient. For metal (any - steel, stainless steel, galvanized, copper), thermal insulation is very desirable.

Piping: rules

As in any business, plumbing has its own rules. They are also used for plumbing. If you are going to do the plumbing for yourself, it’s up to you to follow them or not, but it’s better to do everything right. The rules have their own logic, which is followed by the majority:

If you look closely, you will see that most of the water pipes are made according to these rules.

Which plumbing pipes are best

It is impossible to say unequivocally which pipes are best for wiring - there is no ideal material, there are more or less suitable for these conditions. Let's dwell on the most popular options, their advantages and disadvantages:

Polypropylene pipes

The option is good for everyone, except for a large thermal expansion - up to 5 cm per 1 meter, and this is a lot. With a long route, it is necessary to install a compensator or use reinforced pipes. They have much less thermal expansion, but the prices are higher. For hot water, it is definitely necessary to use reinforced pipes, but with fiberglass or foil - it's up to you. The distribution of cold water pipes can be done with a conventional PPR pipe for cold water - here thermal expansion is not so critical.

Polypropylene pipes for plumbing - an excellent choice

Another point that is relevant if you do the work yourself, you are going to do a hidden laying of communications - the quality of the connections. In principle, there is nothing complicated, but without experience you can “screw up”, as a result, after a while the connection may leak. In the absence of experience in welding polypropylene, it is very undesirable to hide the joints under the finish. In this case, it is better to choose an open laying method.

The layout of polypropylene pipes in the bathroom and toilet has many positive aspects:

• a correctly made connection turns out to be monolithic;
• there is no narrowing of the pipeline diameters in the places of soldering;
• high maintainability;
• long service life;
• ease of installation.

In general, it is not for nothing that this material has been so popular lately.

PVC for plumbing

When laying PVC pipes, an adhesive joint is used. There is a special glue that dissolves the top layer of the polymer. Both parts to be glued are lubricated with it, pressed against one another and held for some time. As a result, the connection is almost monolithic, strong and reliable.

There are two types of connection: butt, when two pipe sections are joined and using fittings. Fittings are easier to work with, but the joints are narrower. With a butt joint, there are no narrowings, but it is much more difficult to make it qualitatively.

In principle, all the pros and cons are the same here, a few minuses are added - it is only suitable for transporting cold media only - no more than + 40 ° C, that is, other pipes will have to be used for hot water supply. Scratches and chips reduce the strength of the pipe, therefore, a threaded connection is excluded.

metal-plastic

The layout of the water supply from metal-plastic pipes is also suitable for hot water supply - it can withstand temperatures up to + 105 ° C. A positive difference from all of the above is its high plasticity - these pipes can be bent with a fairly small radius. This simplifies and reduces the cost of installation (fittings are expensive).

Metal-plastic - not the best choice

The disadvantage of using metal-plastic pipes for plumbing is a strong narrowing at the joints - in fittings. This results in a significant pressure drop in the system. This is what limits their use.

Circuit examples

The piping in each apartment, even in a typical house, is individual - plumbing and household appliances are arranged differently, of course, the scheme will be different. In reality, everything is not so complicated, you just need to decide on the main parameters of the circuit - where you need to supply water and the type of wiring - will you pull in parallel or in series. Further, everything is dictated by the position of consumers. To make it a little easier, let's add a few more diagrams and photos.

The peculiarity of this scheme is that a thicker pipe from the hot water supply goes to the heated towel rail. This is done to ensure the best heating.

Example of serial wiring - equipment at the entrance to the apartment to increase security

With hidden installation of water pipes, part of the pipes can be hidden in the floor. It will be impossible to repair them, but they are beautiful ...

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