Brick wall on the veranda. Design of a closed veranda in a private house
A veranda attached to the house allows you to expand the habitable area and provide a place for comfortable relaxation. Closed (glazed), it further reduces heat loss in the house. The best part is that you can do it yourself. Moreover, there are options that require significant costs, and there are inexpensive ones. There are many varieties both in structure and in the materials used; they can be decorated in any style.
What are there
Depending on the method of construction, a veranda attached to a house can be closed - with glazing - or open. Open ones are used mainly in the warm season, closed ones can serve as a place to relax all year round. A veranda attached to a house can be of two types at once: part can be glazed (closed), part can be open.
There are also walk-through doors - this is when in order to get into the house you pass through it. Such extensions are located on the front side of the house, sometimes on the yard side if there are two exits from the house. Entrance to impassable buildings is only from the house. It is impossible to get outside from such a veranda.
An extension can cover one, two or more sides of the house. If it covers two adjacent parts of the house, it is called a corner. Some of them occupy only part of the wall.
The forms are different. More often it is a rectangle, less often a hexagon, a semicircle, or other non-standard shapes (these are more difficult to build). In short, these are all types of verandas attached to the house, but without taking into account the materials.
The perimeter extension gives the house an extravagant look
What materials are they made from?
Most often, wooden verandas are made in our area. It is easier to work with wood, and it is not as expensive as in other countries. In areas where wood is very expensive, structural elements are made of metal, and the cladding is selected to suit your taste. It can be glass (double-glazed windows), polycarbonate.
The walls of the veranda are built from brick, shell rock, rubble stone, and building blocks. Just like a house, they are then finished or not, depending on the design of the main building. They can simply make a fence, as in the photo above.
If wood is expensive, or you are reluctant to work with it on a regular basis, the veranda frame is assembled from metal. For this purpose, a profile pipe, corners or channels are most often used - it depends on the material and size of the extension. It is easier to attach double-glazed windows to metal; instead of glazing, you can use polycarbonate. This material can be of different colors and varying degrees of transparency. Despite its apparent fragility, there is a fairly strong material that is used for the construction of greenhouses. And if so, then in the veranda, if it is closed, it will keep the heat well.
Veranda attached to the house: stages of construction
First of all, you need to decide on the type - open/closed, what material it is made of, and choose the type of foundation. It is also necessary to decide what size it will have, where and how it will be located. It is advisable to draw all this on the plan. Even better - order a project. Construction according to a project is rather an exception for us, but at least there is a plan with dimensions and an indication of the location, reference to paths, etc. you must have.
The construction of a veranda for the house with your own hands proceeds according to the following plan (we build it from wood):
- Use pegs and twine to mark the outlines.
- Remove the turf and fertile layer. If this is not done, the vegetation under the flooring will rot, spreading aromas.
- Mark out the foundation. At this stage, questions may arise: what height should it be. If the foundation is made incoherent and “floating”, the level of the veranda flooring should be 5-10 cm below the floor level. This is necessary so that even when raised, the extension does not block the front door. If you don’t want the floor to be lower, you will have to make a high threshold in the front door: to guarantee the freedom of opening the door. The height of the support beam depends on the height of the extension floor. It is nailed to the wall of the house, and floor beams are attached to it. The height of the foundation is marked along its lower edge (these are the next two steps).
- Nail a support beam to the wall, along the lower edge of which the height of the foundation is measured.
How to mark an extension: nail the support beam at the required level, and mark the height of the foundation along its lower edge
- Build the foundation.
- While the concrete gains at least half strength, you complete site preparation. If at the bottom of the pit (the fertile layer has been removed) the soil allows water to pass through well (sandy, sandy loam), add crushed stone to the bottom. It can be compacted, or you can do without it. If there is loam or clay under the fertile layer, you will have to fill the pit either with the same soil (but not fertile) or with clean clay. It must be compacted well to avoid creating voids in which water will accumulate (it is better to lay it soaked to a paste in layers).
- A layer of waterproofing is laid on the finished foundation.
- Support posts for the roof are installed and secured.
- They tie the racks: they nail a beam 100*150 mm thick around the perimeter. It can be nailed to the outside of the studs or between them. Sometimes the racks are nailed after the floor has been laid. This is not the best option: the floor will most quickly become unusable. With such a structure, in order to replace it, you will have to dismantle everything, right down to the roof. If you install the racks first and then the floor, it can be repaired without problems.
This is what the assembled frame of a veranda attached to the house looks like. Intermediate racks are needed only if the width of the veranda is more than 3 meters.
- Floor beams (beam 100*150 mm) are attached to the foundation and support beam. The step of their installation corresponds to the step of installing piles or columns.
- Assemble the rafter system.
- Side railings (for open ones) or walls (for glazed ones) are installed. At this stage, the general technology ends. Further, for indoor ones it is longer; an open veranda is easier to attach to the house:
- For open ones, floor boards are nailed onto the beams.
- For glazed ones, an insulated floor is made. The subfloor is nailed to the beams. There are joists on top, insulation between them, and a finished floor on top.
- Roofing.
- Wall decoration inside and outside.
These are just general steps. To have a more complete idea of how to make a veranda for a house, we will next consider the most problematic aspects of construction in more detail.
Perhaps you are interested in building a gazebo?
Foundation
If a veranda is attached to a house, the foundations are very rarely made coherent. Firstly, the house has already settled, the shrinkage has passed. If a “fresh” building is rigidly attached to it, problems will inevitably arise. If it is possible to tie them, then only on stable, reliable soils, on which no movement occurs. Secondly, heavy foundations are rarely made for extensions of this type. The building itself turns out to be light - especially an open one made of wood or frame - and the load-bearing capacity is sufficient.
In general, verandas are placed on the same foundations as houses. Another thing is that most of them are on columnar foundations: the costs are small and the time required is short. And although all architects and designers claim that it is much more difficult to install a correct columnar foundation than (though a strip foundation is much more expensive), people install exactly the pillars.
Column and pile foundation
If you decide to attach a veranda to a wooden house, you can install a columnar foundation. To make it yourself, you need to find out at what depth and at what distance the supports are placed. The distance between the columns depends on the material from which the extension will be built. If these are lightweight materials - wood or a light frame structure - you can place them in increments of 1.5 meters. For heavier ones, the distance should be from 1 meter.
Columnar foundation for the veranda - the columns are made of brick. This open veranda is attached to a wooden house. The house stands on a strip foundation. The foundations of the extension and the house are not connected
When choosing the depth of columns, there are two approaches:
- Bury below the freezing depth of the soil. This is done on water-saturated soils that are prone to heaving. In this case, the veranda will stand at the same level without changing its position, regardless of the heaving forces. For a columnar foundation, this only makes sense if the freezing depth is no more than 1.2 meters. At greater depths it is easier to make a pile foundation (better -). Holes for piles are not very difficult to make even if you need to drill 2 meters. To install posts for each of them, digging a pit of the same depth is difficult and time-consuming.
- Make a shallow foundation: 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. In this case, get a floating veranda that will float and lower during frost heaving. It is much easier to build such a structure, but every spring you will have to deal with the consequences of heaving. Different pillars will “walk” differently and the situation will have to be corrected somehow. But this is on heaving soils (clays, loams). On stable soils that are not prone to heaving there will be no such problems.
What is good about this option for the foundation for the veranda of the house? It is quickly built, the cost of work and building materials is low.
The veranda is attached to a brick house on a strip foundation. They put it on . It differs from columnar in that the piles are either screwed in/driven ready-made, or poured into the formwork and are monolithic.
Disadvantages: difficult to predict his behavior. Moreover, both deep and shallow. With a shallow foundation, everything depends on winter and the degree of soil saturation with water, which is impossible to predict and calculate. When buried deep, there is also a problem: it is not known what is under each of the piles. After all, geological surveys cannot be done at all points. And in those areas where the soil has a complex layered structure, it is quite possible to get into some kind of pocket, due to which the pile will not behave as expected. Also in the case of piles or deeply buried columns, it is necessary to remember about lateral heaving forces. They may well break long and thin piles or pillars. Therefore, on problematic soils, strong formwork (metal, asbestos) is used for piles and they are also reinforced: when making pillars, a steel pipe coated with a primer is inserted inside, around which the masonry is laid. It is also possible to lay reinforcing belts. When making bored piles, three or four reinforcement rods must be inserted inside, which add strength to them. Building a veranda with your own hands on a pile foundation can be done quickly and inexpensively, but the risks on heaving soils are great.
Monolithic: strip and slab
If you are going to build a veranda from brick, rubble or other similar heavy materials, and even with heavy cladding, you need a monolithic foundation. You will have to either cast a tape or make a slab. They are made according to all the rules without any exceptions: with formwork, reinforcement, vibration, etc. Completely based on technology.
When building such a foundation, it can already be connected to the main one: you will have to build it to the same depth and, most likely, it will behave stably.
Advantages: high reliability and stability. Disadvantages: significant cost and lengthy construction process.
Bedding
If the house is located on dry soils or in a region where frost heaving is just a horror story, if it does not have a base, a veranda attached to the house can do without a foundation. In this case, the fertile layer is removed along with the vegetation, the bottom of the pit is compacted, then crushed stone is filled in, compacted, then sand, which is also compacted. On this base you can already lay a flooring: wooden, paving slabs or slabs.
A veranda attached to a house can be without a foundation
One “but”: the racks on which the roof will rest still need to be strengthened in some way. Small piles are made for them or columns are laid (from approximately the same depth where they began laying crushed stone under the flooring).
How thick should I make the bedding? It depends, firstly, on the thickness of the fertile layer, and secondly, on the choice of floor covering. If these are wooden panels (as in the photo), you need to choose the layers so that they lie flush with the ground. If you are planning to lay paving slabs, you will have to consider their thickness. Although, it can be raised slightly above ground level to separate it from the yard. But then they put a border along the edge.
In this photo, the open veranda is attached to the house without a foundation - it’s more like a summer shed with a polycarbonate roof and an open wooden fence
How to attach the stand and bottom trim
Work on the construction of the veranda frame begins after the foundation concrete (if used) has gained some strength. 50% of the calculated value is enough, and this at a temperature of +20° C will happen in 4-5 days. Then, on top of the concrete, in those places where the posts or trim will be attached, two layers of waterproofing are laid. It can be roofing felt, roofing felt, folded in half. You can coat it twice with bitumen mastic or use other modern materials.
Then there are two ways:
- secure the racks and then the harness;
- first the strapping, there are stands for them.
If the first option is chosen, special holders are inserted into the foundation when pouring. These can be different devices (see photo), but the most convenient is a metal plate in the form of an inverted letter “P”, to the bottom of which a pin is welded, which is walled up in the foundation. A stand is inserted into this plate (the end must be treated with an antiseptic), its level is checked, and secured with bolts or nails.
How to attach posts to the foundation
After all the posts have been positioned and secured, the framing bars are nailed between them.
With the second option, the situation is different: the racks will have to be attached to the harness. The strapping beam is attached first. It is more convenient to do this if studs are embedded into the concrete at some intervals. Then holes are made in the beam in the right places, it is put on studs and secured with bolts. Then, using one of the methods suggested in the photo, the racks are installed.
Options for attaching racks to strapping beams
Any of these methods does not exclude the use of metal corners. They make the fastening more reliable, which is very important in this case. After all, the racks will support the roof, as well as the walls or fence.
Attaching the joist to the harness
They can be mounted on top of the harness, or at the same level with its top edge. You need to decide exactly how you will do this at the very beginning of the work: this will determine at what level it will be necessary to attach the support beam to the wall of the house (the height of the joists is taken into account or not). Methods for attaching floor joists are shown in the photo below.
How to attach floor joists to the frame
Attaching the roof of the veranda
The porch attached to the house is usually covered with the same type of roofing as the crowbar. There may be several options, and the organization of the roof connection depends on how and to which wall you attach it. If the roof is a continuation of the roof slope of the house, you need to join two rafter systems. In this case, they say that the roof of the veranda is adjacent to the roof of the house.
Then the procedure is as follows:
- The top trims are attached to the veranda posts.
- Transverse ceiling beams are nailed to the frame. The ceiling is then sewn to them.
- The long rafter legs of the house are shortened. They should not protrude beyond the wall.
- Veranda rafters are made from planed boards, which are cut at an angle from the roof side so that they adjoin the existing ones (see photo below). To make it easier to work, you can make a template, according to which you can then prepare the rafters on the ground. The rafter legs are attached to the house system through nails; metal reinforcing pads can be placed on the sides.
- To increase the rigidity of the structure, spacers (anti-snow supports) are installed between the rafters of the house and the extension. They are shown in the photo explaining the design.
If the width of the veranda is more than 2 meters or heavy roofing material will be used, spacers are installed to prevent the support beam from sagging. It is better not to nail them on the side, but rather to insert them between the ceiling beam and the rafter leg.
In order to prevent the roof from sagging, spacers are installed between the ceiling beams and rafters
More often it turns out that the roof of the veranda attached to the house is adjacent to the wall. In this case, a groove is made in the wall, a special wall profile is placed in it, the other side of which is laid on the roof covering. The place where it joins the wall is sealed with sealant.
The second option differs only in the shape of the wall profile: it can be made independently from a sheet of roofing iron. This design is distinguished by the presence of a beam, which allows you to move the bend away from the wall of the house and cover possible errors when laying roofing material at the junction. Also, in this option, the apron is not attached directly to the wall material, but to a beam with a beveled edge, mounted in the groove.
The second option for connecting the roof of the extension to the wall of the house
Some questions may arise about how to attach the rafters to the outer top frame, because its dimensions do not allow making cuts, as on the mauerlat. The solution is the usual: using corners (see photo). Instead of corners, you can use small cross-section bars.
Maybe not the most elegant solution, but reliable. After everything is covered with roofing on top, clapboards will be added underneath, they will not be visible.
In this article we will look at the design of a veranda at the dacha. The 80 photos we selected will tell you about all the main styles that can be used when designing and decorating both open and closed spaces. We will also tell you how to paint correctly to protect the boards from rotting. Next we will discuss the main elements veranda design and decoration:
- railings and fences;
- landscaping;
- roof;
- doors;
- lighting;
- furniture, etc.
Design features of verandas
What is a veranda? A living space, an extension to a house or a full-fledged part of any home? What kind of veranda should there be at the dacha? Design (photo provided) what style is best?
The most accurate definition would be, perhaps, this - this is an open or closed (most often glazed) room attached to a building (as an option - built into it). Let's figure out how the veranda is structurally different from other rooms in the house.
In this material) is often used as an additional room, especially if it is insulated, which allows you to spend time there even in winter. The open veranda at the dacha is intended for use in the warm season. We propose to consider the main styles in which these extensions can be made.
Veranda at the dacha - photos of design and different interior styles
When decorating residential premises, designers around the world use dozens of different styles that came to us from both the Far East and Africa. Also, when designing a veranda at the dacha, photos of different ideas will tell you how to do it better.
Let's not stray too far from Russian realities, join the trends of other world regions (and they are radically different from ours) and consider the styles of designing a veranda at the dacha, which are most realistically applied when designing to an ordinary person living within our country. 
Rustic wood effect
When developing the design of a veranda at the dacha, many owners of country houses focus on the rustic style of the interior, and no wonder, because this particular surroundings is most suitable for a country house.
The rustic style is distinguished by its coziness and simple design - these are, first of all, natural materials (the advantage always goes to wood and stone), as well as painting in natural colors. Veranda floors are usually stone or wood.
It is best to choose furniture for the veranda in this style that is massive and carved. Even a buffet or a small closet wouldn't hurt. Clay pots directly on the floor will also look great - they will add the atmosphere of a real village hut or an old merchant's house, depending on what flowers are planted in them.
Modern modern
It should be noted right away that the “modern” style as such does not exist anywhere except in the Russian language. If you want to look for information about it on foreign websites, then look at the names “liberty” or “art nouveau”. The term “Jugenstil” is also used. What it is? In fact, a new classic, discreet minimalism. There are many points of view, however, there are common features, and the interior of a veranda in a similar style is quite appropriate. 
A characteristic feature of modern architecture is a large amount of light and space. The building, accordingly, looks more like a greenhouse - it is either glazed with panoramic windows or completely open to the sun. Floor coverings and walls are in light shades.
The style works to combine modern technology with natural materials. Despite Art Nouveau’s commitment to cool colors and shades, they are always offset by warm inserts - these can be bright mosaics on the floor or floor, as well as designer furniture in rich colors.
Well-established antique
The antique style of design on the veranda (photo below) is distinguished by strict majesty, and therefore the materials with which you have to work will not be the simplest. The primary materials used are ceramics and marble. The style prefers geometry - this can be like mosaic floors or triangular elements in the decor (for example, on curtains or upholstery).
There is no need to think that the antique style is extremely cold - due to the abundance of sunlight (large windows, arches), the rooms seem large, spacious and calm.
Modern summer verandas in an antique style dacha also require a large number of lamps, lamps and sconces. If you buy several strict floor lamps with a long leg, you can’t go wrong - visually they resemble torches, and therefore will look very atmospheric. 
You can throw a small carpet on the floor or leave it mosaic. Pay attention to the ceilings - they are most often decorated with stucco, but this option is not necessary. Images painted with special paint will look much more organic.
Minimalism for perfectionists
An excellent choice for those who love a lot of free space. Light style that combines pastel shades, light walls and natural colors of furniture and decor. A characteristic feature is the commitment to wicker furniture - these can be armchairs made of wicker, wicker tables and even elegant floor lamps made of thin branches. 
Minimalism is, first of all, light and geometric perfectionism, therefore the veranda will be equipped with a large number of windows with ideal proportions. Most often, panoramic windows are chosen, however, the opposite options are possible - small windows, but additional lighting in the form of sconces or lamps, preferably in white colors. 
The floors of the veranda are made in light shades - it can be either natural wood or painted panels, but always in natural shades.
Provence
When people hear the word “Provence,” they first of all remember simplicity and elegance. What do these characteristics mean when applied to the design of a veranda in the Provence style? Do not forget that the word itself means “provincial”, and, therefore, only what is natural can be provincial - wood and various kinds of careless details are used (cracks, chips, abrasions, by the way, are also these details). 
Provence furniture is massive furniture in light shades, and old photographs in heavy frames must hang on the walls. One view of this place should speak about its history, but not deliberately pompous, but small, cozy. Curtains for small Provence veranda windows in soft colors are best chosen from linen and cotton fabrics. 
Photos of veranda designs at the dacha in different styles
Interior design of an open summer veranda
Having talked about the main stylistics, we can move on to dividing the verandas according to the architectural composition. In particular, open buildings are more suitable for the warm season - they are intended more for outdoor recreation than for living. It’s great if a house located close to the forest has such a veranda - it’s simply great to breathe there.
Accordingly, where advantages are hidden, disadvantages can also be found - rain, wind and, of course, snow will be the enemies of the building. Excessive sunlight will also not please the owners, since it will be impossible to hide from the heat in walls without windows (especially in the southern regions - Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Stavropol Territory, etc.). 
The construction of an open veranda made of wood depends on the imagination of the builder, however, the choice of material for it is entirely a practical task. It is best to choose inexpensive but durable wood - the ideal options would be:
- pine;
- ash;
- larch.
Oak, hornbeam and beech are also good, but are much more expensive and, in addition, are susceptible to cracking. 
The design of an open veranda at the dacha can be chosen regardless of the style of the house - however, it is preferable that they still correlate. 
An important element is the floor. For an open building, a warm floor is not so important (in any case, it is not suitable for winter pastime), so you can use both wide boards and brick, concrete slabs and even ceramic tiles for the covering. 
An interesting approach even for small verandas is division into zones. The following main areas can be distinguished: a barbecue or other place for preparing food, a place for eating food, a relaxation area with a hammock or sofa.
If you want to do so, find it on the appropriate page.
Design and decoration
You can design and decorate the veranda at the dacha (photo below) starting with the walls - they will also be part of the decor, especially if they are made of timber. Adding a little natural stone to this palette will make it both beautiful and environmentally friendly.
Don't forget the details:
- paintings;
- embroidery;
- photographs on the walls;
- flowers and greenery;
- pillows;
- various lamps;
- correctly selected;
- pots and vases;
- themed things.
If the veranda is designed in a certain style (for example, river or pirate), then you can play on this by hanging a lifebuoy or ropes on the wall. If you are a big music lover, emphasize this by placing an old gramophone on a decorative table and hanging records. It will look original, and such decorations will be quite inexpensive. And don’t forget about the main decoration: flowers and greenery - more on that later. 
landscaping
In the hot season, an open-type veranda can be both a desirable place to relax, and quite repulsive - if you cannot escape the heat in it. Usually, openings and windows are covered with curtains or canopies, but why such difficulties? – You can always resort to landscaping. 
This term refers to the cultivation of climbing plants that will cover the building, thereby providing a natural curtain. In addition, landscaping the veranda will help maintain a pleasant and healthy atmosphere - the air will be more humid. 
What plants can be used for landscaping? Usually these are grapes, hops, honeysuckle, decorative beans - any type of vines. A wooden mesh is hung on the walls of the fence, along which the shoots can begin to curl. It would also be a good idea to plant several small trees nearby. 
Veranda railings and fencing
First, let's try to figure out what the differences are between fences and what types they come in. By type they distinguish:
- closed – designed to combat the wind
- open - needed solely for decorative purposes to decorate the veranda at the dacha.
The materials for creating veranda fencing can be varied. Among them are metal, wood, glass, cables and ropes, and even bamboo. Depending on the type of execution, you can distinguish your own subgroups:
- Horizontal – the location of the jumpers is horizontal.
- Vertical - jumpers, respectively, are located vertically.
- Cross - jumpers cross each other vertically and horizontally or diagonally.
You need to choose from the types of supports based on the availability and cost of the material, as well as the weight of the future structure and, preferably, the possibility of replacing elements in case of damage. 
Interior design of a closed veranda at the dacha
The interior design of a closed veranda at the dacha is distinguished, accordingly, by the presence of not only strong walls, but also doors and windows, essentially representing a separate room. Here, just like in the house, it should be warm, dry and comfortable. We have already covered most of the information about arranging and decorating a veranda, but there are points that most often apply only to enclosed spaces, and we’ll talk about this further. 
Doors to the veranda
Doors to the veranda must be chosen based on the logic that they will not only be a successful piece of decor, but also a guarantee of the safety of household members. Also keep in mind that the door must retain heat - its thermal insulation properties are important. The best options would be doors:
- steel;
- plastic (somewhat similar to a regular balcony).
By design they can be:
- single-sex – the most common option;
- double-leaf - the door leaf is divided into two parts horizontally using a special element;
- sliding – slides to the left or right;
- folding - folds like an accordion.
Arrangement options
There are enough DIY options below to get confused if you don’t know what to look for. We offer the most interesting and original solutions.
Veranda as a dining room. You won’t need any unnecessary things there - you can decorate it in a minimalist style, which means that you can only place furniture and indoor plants on it. There is no need to choose large furniture if the room itself is small - it will be both uncomfortable and not very aesthetically pleasing. 
This could be a great idea for kids. veranda-children's. This will be a kind of themed corner for a child, but close to nature. Details, such as curtains, play an important role here. You can read about how to decorate them correctly in our separate article about. How to decorate a veranda as a nursery:
- toys and pillows on the floor;
- bright colors for painting walls;
- children's swings;
- table for drawing.
Veranda-winter garden with glass walls and roof. It is advisable to choose plants that will be there that are more or less heat-resistant - for example, palm trees, ivy, and ficus trees take root well. 
And finally, the most comfortable option is a veranda with a fireplace. It will not only be possible to warm up on a bad day, but also to cook. It is important to understand that it is recommended to build such a structure yourself only if you have special skills. It is not for nothing that the profession of stove makers is considered expensive and in demand. 
Most often, summer cottages require summer areas for relaxation: to relax after working in the garden or vegetable garden. Verandas - open or glazed - are best suited for this. They can be large or small, wooden, stone, polycarbonate. The best part is that a small veranda at the dacha can be built with your own hands by one person in a few weeks. True, modest in size.
Projects of country houses with a veranda
If the dacha is going to be built from wood - timber or logs - it doesn’t matter, the most popular design is 6x6 meters. This is due to the fact that the standard length of lumber is 6 meters. With the size of the house, waste is minimal. When considering projects, we notice that it is necessary to look at six meters - this is only the residential part or together with the veranda.
For example, in a timber project, the photo of which is located below, the entire building area is 6*6 meters, 2*6 is a veranda, the habitable part is only 4*6 meters. The internal area will be even smaller - it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the walls and finishing materials.
In another project, 6*6 meters is just a building, and a veranda is attached to it. The total building area is larger (see photo).
Country houses with an attic and a veranda (as in the photo above) are popular. With this layout, having occupied a small area for the house, you use it to the maximum. Another one of these dachas is in the picture below.
The following project was created for a country house made of foam concrete. The asymmetrical roof gives it an oriental flavor, which is echoed by the design style of the veranda.
How to attach
A do-it-yourself veranda at the dacha is not only built from scratch. Much more often it is attached to a finished house. In most cases, the foundation for the veranda is made columnar (on posts) or piled. For a light veranda made of wood or built on a frame principle, such a base is more than enough. But you need to take into account the geology of the site, otherwise the extension will “walk” in height in winter. Then in the spring you will have to correct the distortions.
Foundation for a veranda at the dacha
We'll tell you how to build an open veranda at your dacha. On sandy or sandy loam, gravelly soils that are not prone to heaving, it is quite possible to get by with shallow posts. They are buried 20-30 cm below the level of fertile soil. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the excavated pit and compacted well. To be safe, you can spill it with liquid concrete mortar. Solbiks made of bricks or rubble are placed on this pillow (ruble ones are more durable when laid correctly). To make the work even easier, you can put concrete blocks-pillows down, and, if necessary, build columns on them to the required height.
On sandy soils, the foundation can be made columnar. In this case, country houses with a veranda are inexpensive
If the soil is prone to heaving - clay, loam, posts - you cannot install them: they will be pushed out every year. In this case, it is better to make a pile foundation, digging below the soil freezing depth for your region. You can make holes for them using a hand drill. On not very viscous clay you can handle it alone, or in extreme cases - together. For greater stability it is better to do
A little about how many piles or posts are needed. They are placed at a distance of 1-2 meters. The distance depends on the cross-section of the pile or column and on the materials from which the veranda is built. Open wooden country verandas adjacent to the house weigh little. Therefore, supports can be placed under them with a distance of 1.5-2 meters. If glazing is expected on the veranda, the step should be smaller - at least 1.5 meters. In general, it would be a good idea to calculate the load and determine the required cross-section of the piles.
Consider the mass of all materials that will put pressure on the piles: frame beams, joists, floor boards, insulation, racks, rafter system, roofing, supposed heavy furniture. In general, you count everything. Add 20-30% percent for snow loads (if winters are very snowy, then more) and safety margin. Divide the resulting number by the estimated number of piles. You get a mass that will put pressure on one support. Using the table, find the line that indicates the type of soil on your site. Moving along it, find the nearest higher value of the bearing capacity of the piles. In the upper part above the found column the diameter required for this load is indicated.
Now let’s talk about how tall the pillars should be. The floor in the extension should be slightly lower than the floor in the country house. This will prevent rainwater from entering the house. The height difference is required to be small - about 25-50 mm. And the height of the pillars or piles should be such that after assembling the entire structure (framing, beams, floor boards), the flooring will be at the required height. On the wall of the house, this height is achieved using a beam on which the ends of the floor joists will rest (its upper edge is set below the required level of the flooring by the thickness of the board).
The beam is fixed at the required level, and the upper level of columns or piles is marked along its lower edge
Before starting construction, do not forget to remove the fertile layer from the site, which will be under the veranda. Otherwise the smell from there will be unpleasant. The resulting pit after pouring the piles on heaving soils is covered with the same soil and compacted well; on well-drained soils it can be filled with crushed stone. If, for example, you fill a hole with crushed stone on clay, then water will collect in the pit, which sooner or later will end up under the foundation, or will bloom and smell accordingly. Therefore, spare no effort, compact the soil well.
We think it’s clear in general terms how to make a foundation for a veranda at the dacha. Having chosen its type, you will need to thoroughly understand the details, and this is unrealistic within the framework of one article.
Construction of a veranda at the dacha
After the foundation is ready, the construction of the veranda itself begins. Let's divide the process into stages.
- It all starts with tying pillars or piles. They are first covered with waterproofing, then racks are attached to them. After installing all the racks, the lower frame beams are laid between them. There is a second option: first, attach the harness and the stands to them. This is a worse option: if you need to change the strapping bars (they are closest to the ground and are most often affected by fungi, even though they are treated with antiseptics), you will have to disassemble the entire structure of the veranda, including the roof.
- After the bottom trim, floor beams are installed. When building country verandas adjacent to the house, pillars or piles are rarely placed at a distance closer than one meter to the main foundation. With this arrangement, the second end of the beams is attached to the support beam. One end of them rests on the harness, the other on a beam attached to the wall of the house. If the width is sufficiently large, there are also intermediate supports. The logs are also attached to them with nails driven diagonally.
- Now install the top trim, which connects all the racks. The next step is laying the ceiling beams. They are installed in increments of at least 1 meter. These beams can be open, but then the rafter system must be assembled carefully, or they can be hemmed underneath with clapboard, edged board, drywall, etc.
Assembled top frame and ceiling beams
- The roof on the veranda must have a slope. Therefore, a rafter system is also required: the roof of the veranda is connected to the wall or to the roof of the house. Since the veranda is adjacent to the wall, timber is nailed to it at the required height. The difference between the height of this beam and the trim determines the angle of the roof slope. Its minimum value depends on the type of roofing material.
- Next, the veranda rafter system is installed. One edge of the rafter legs rests on the upper support beam, the second - on the outer beam of the upper frame. You can attach it to the harness by making a notch in the timber (the depth of the cut is no more than 50% of the thickness of the timber). The second option is to cut out a recess in the rafter legs and nail it through the top with nails. The third one is to simply lay the lag and secure it to the beam with corners.
- If the rafter system is of considerable length, the beams may sag. To minimize deflection, spacers must be installed between the ceiling beams and the rafters. The number of spacers depends on the depth of the veranda. On average, they need to be installed every meter.
- Next the floor is laid. If the veranda is open, it is better to take a decking board: it has an uneven surface (wavy) and does not slip when wet. If you need a floor with a smooth surface, use edged boards. One important point: on open verandas, the floor should be made with a slight slope away from the house. This way, any trapped water will quickly drain away. A floor board with a tongue and groove is needed only if the veranda is covered and the floor needs to be insulated. Then, first, they make a subfloor from edged boards, put joists on it, insulation between them, and then finish the floor on top.
- After laying the floor, you can install side rails. They will give the building even more rigidity.
- The roof covering is laid last. There are no special features: they make a sheathing, the pitch of which depends on the weight of the material, and install the roofing material according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. After this, it is important to make the connection to the wall correctly so that there are no leaks in this place. The most universal option for dachas made of bricks or building blocks: make a groove above the level of the roofing material, lay a beam in it, and trim one of the edges (see photo below). Below, another beam is nailed, a slightly larger cross-section and also with a cut edge. From above, this entire structure is covered with an apron made of roofing iron.
How to cover the floor on the veranda at the dacha
First of all, let’s make a reservation that by “painting” the floor in a dacha we mean changing the color of the wood, increasing its security, but not painting over its texture. That is, we will actually talk about stains, but with protective properties. Rather, we will tell you how to cover the floor on the veranda at the dacha. Opaque paints that create an opaque film on the surface, even the best ones, will definitely swell and crack on the floor. Especially if it is an open summer veranda. In this case, it is better to use stains.
Impregnations for protection
Please note that all wood must be treated with antiseptics before construction. This is especially true for the open veranda. Here the side rails, all the racks and the floor - all these elements - require careful protection. For impregnation, you can use the SENEZH IMPRA composition. It is even suitable for processing wood that has direct contact with the ground. What is important is that it does not change its color, does not wash out, and does not create a vapor-proof film. That is, after treatment, the wood continues to dry.
The same campaign has another impregnation “Senezh” with similar characteristics. But it gives the wood an olive tint. If you apply a dark color later, it will have almost no effect on the final result, but will be visible under light colors.
Pinotex Tinova Professional - primer for dry wood. Protects against blue staining, darkening, mold and rot. Penetrates deep into the fibers. Apply to clean, dry wood (humidity not higher than 18%). This is its disadvantage: verandas are rarely built from dry lumber.
Color Changing
There are the following options for coloring compositions:
- Tikkurila Valtti Puuoljy (Tikkurila Valtti Puyoli). This composition is intended for surfaces constantly exposed to atmospheric factors. Its base is oil. Therefore, it is necessary to use on dried wood: maximum humidity 20%. Apply with a brush to a clean surface, one coat is usually sufficient.
- Pinotex Terrace Oil (Pinotex terrace oil) - oil for Pinotex terraces. This composition is applied to the base and also: it must be tinted by adding the desired pigment. Designed for processing wood on terraces, verandas, stairs, etc.
Both of these formulations are oil-based. They need to be updated once every year or two - check the condition. But at the same time apply it to the old coating, simply by cleaning it first. Easy to apply and leaves no streaks. It is usually absorbed quickly: if after 15-20 minutes there is some unabsorbed composition somewhere, you need to blot it with a dry cloth. Moreover, even after a year the surface looks attractive, no cracks, chips of the coating or other troubles.
If the wood you use is not dry enough, here’s the solution: impregnate it with antibacterial impregnations that do not create a vapor-proof film on the surface. After some time it will dry out enough (in a year - for sure). During this time, of course, it will get darker. Remove the top layer with a sander and then cover the floor on the veranda at the dacha with oil.
If you look at the prices, then Pinotex is cheaper, but under it you must apply its own “Base” - a basic impregnation. Tikkurila can be used directly on boards (but on dry ones). If water gets on surfaces treated with these compounds, it remains in separate puddles, not absorbed until it is wiped off or it dries.
Sometimes verandas are covered with yacht varnish. If you take expensive, high-quality ones, the coating lasts for several years. Cheaper yacht varnish cracks and lifts in places after a year. Before applying a new layer, the old one must be removed and the surface sanded. If you want to varnish, try Eurotex alkyd varnish or Eteral urethane varnish. They have good reviews. But keep in mind: varnished surfaces are slippery in winter. So if you want shiny surfaces, paint your walls, counters and side rails. Still, it's better than oil on the floor.
Glazing: what and how
Even a large open veranda can be glazed if desired. The easiest way is to call a measurer from a company that sells metal profile windows and listen to their proposals. They may offer windows that open or not. Here the choice is yours. The glazing of the veranda looks like the photo below. For a summer residence, this option may be unsafe: if the territory is not guarded, it can be broken up.
Even with this solution, questions arise:
- Install single or double frames. If you have finances, it’s better to bet double. They hold heat much better. Even if you only come to your dacha in winter to check how things are going, in spring or autumn it will be much warmer. To the point that if the veranda is on the south side, while the house is heated, you will bask on the veranda: the sun heats the air, and the frames retain the heat. It will be especially warm if you make an insulated floor. But even with a single deck, the temperature in the glazed extension will be much higher than in the house.
- The windows must be burglary resistant or not. If there is no security nearby, then even the best ones will be able to break into it. Even tempered reinforced glass will not last long against brick. And in order not to provoke thieves, the entrance to the house should be behind a reliable metal door, but the entrance to the veranda can be equipped with simple doors.
In the photo below, the veranda at the dacha was glazed with double windows. With a cracked floor in the spring, the extension is much warmer than in a log house.
Large glazing area - large sashes. If you order double frames made of wood, they will open inward (the same as fiberglass). If the veranda area is small, they can get in the way. There are several options here. First: order ones in which both frames will open outward (there are some). The second is to install sliding ones. One point: sliding ones are made only from aluminum profiles. Even if they can make you one from wood, they will cost a lot (this type of window, even made from aluminum, is not cheap at all). You can see the glazing of the country veranda with sliding metal-plastic windows in the photo.
If the veranda in a house is made of logs, and it was cut down along with the house and was originally planned as open, the white windows in it will look, to put it mildly, “not very good.” Not everyone can afford windows with wooden frames over a large area; metal-plastic is still cheaper. The solution is simple: there is laminated aluminum. A film imitating the surface of wood is glued onto it. You select the required color and everything looks good (an example of such glazing of a veranda on two floors is in the photo below).
Glazing of a veranda at the dacha made of logs (the mounting foam is visible, it will then be covered with flashings)
After the veranda has been glazed, I want to build an open gazebo. How? Read
Another option is frameless glazing. In this case, a strong strapping is made at the top and bottom, special glasses are inserted between them, and the gaps between them are sealed with rubber seals or covered.
Frameless glazing of the veranda in combination with a log house is not the best solution
Wood and polycarbonate combine better. Its advantage is that you can install it yourself: make frames with a quarter removed, install polycarbonate sheets in them with sealant. They are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws with special thermal washers that compensate for different temperature expansion. The seams between the sheets are filled with transparent sealant, but there are special mounting profiles for joining the sheets.
You can glaze the veranda yourself in this way. Polycarbonate weighs relatively little, is not so demanding on transportation conditions, and is easier to work with than glass. Due to its cellular structure, it retains heat even better than glass: it is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. So a veranda at the dacha can not only be built with your own hands, but also glazed.
It is difficult to imagine a residential or country house without a veranda; it is not only a decoration of the building, but also an important functional room. In winter, a covered terrace protects the main entrance from rain, snow, wind, and in summer it gives coolness on a hot day.
In this article we will talk about how to attach a veranda to a brick house and cover the main stages of construction.
The building is a covered extension to the house and comes in three types:
- Open terrace(see) has no windows, columns are installed around the perimeter, and between them there are enclosing railings or sides, which can be of different heights (but usually no higher than 70 cm) and made of different materials;
- Closed terrace surrounded by walls with many large windows letting in a lot of light;
- Mixed type– part of the extension is protected by windows, the rest of the space is equipped only with a roof.
Important! Verandas are attached to the front or end side of the house, made up to 6 m long and no more than 3 m wide (the veranda can be of almost any size)
Usually, to preserve the style, the extension itself is built from the same material as the main building - the veranda to a brick house is also made of brick, although the options may be different. These are mainly unheated rooms and are actively used only in the summer season.
What you need to know before starting work
Any idea for the main construction or extension first appears on paper, a project is made with drawings, materials, and estimates. Then this document is checked by the relevant authorities, which issue a construction permit.
This is relevant if you are planning to build a residential building with an attic and a brick terrace, but for country house construction you can get by with a simple sketch for yourself or a team of builders and no permission is required.
Foundation structure
Everyone knows that construction begins with the installation of the foundation for the building.
There are also some nuances here:
- When building a veranda and a house at the same time, the foundation is made integral for both structures. Moreover, this will be correct from the point of view of dressing. In this case, you will get a monolithic structure.
- The addition of a veranda to a brick house that was built a long time ago can be carried out on a separate foundation.
- Since the extension is a lightweight structure, the foundation for it will be a shallow strip foundation; it is sufficient to lay it to a depth of 40–50 cm. The width is equal to the length of the brick with an addition of 10 cm.
- A sand cushion 10–15 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the dug trench and spilled with water to compact it.
- The formwork rises above the ground by 15–20 cm.
- Reinforcement is made with separate rods with a diameter of 8–10 mm or frames.
- It is recommended to lay concrete at one time, if this does not work out, then layer by layer.
- After the mixture has completely set, waterproofing is done along the perimeter of the foundation surface with roofing felt to protect the brick from moisture penetration.
Construction of veranda walls
For brickwork you will need a cement-sand mixture. You can prepare masonry mortar yourself or use a mortar mixer.
How to make a solution
The amount of binder and inert materials is taken in the following proportions:
- Cement – 1 part;
- Sand – 4 parts;
- Water is added gradually, the composition is mixed until a homogeneous mass is formed.
Important! To make the solution plastic, you can add clay or lime to the mixture. This material does not set longer and more completely fills the seams between the bricks.
- Instead of cement-sand mortar, you can use special ready-made masonry mixtures, to which you just need to add a certain amount of water. They are easy to mix; instructions for use are included in each package.
- But since the price of such materials is quite high, it is recommended to use them for small volumes of work.
Brickwork installation
- Markings are made along the foundation and they begin to lay brick pillars for the veranda; the distance between them should not be more than 2.5–3 m. The pillars are laid out with a section of one brick, and after every 2–3 rows the verticality is verified.
- Mortgages are immediately built into the masonry to secure window frames and door blocks.
- Window and door openings are covered with lintels, and a monolithic reinforced belt is installed around the perimeter of the finished masonry to firmly connect the entire structure.
Roofing
After the concrete has hardened, the reinforced belts begin to install the roofing elements:
- Brick verandas for country houses are covered with aerated concrete or hollow-core slabs, and timber beams are also used with the ceiling lined with boards or plywood.
- The slope is made of bars or boards installed at an angle of 30–40 degrees and adjacent to the house at the upper end.
- A continuous rough flooring is made over the bars, which is covered with roofing material (slate, ondulin, soft tiles, etc.).
Porch installation
After the walls are erected, a brick veranda porch is made:
- It is recommended to fill the base under it with concrete, that is, arrange a screed 5–10 cm thick the size of the porch or a little more and lay brick on it.
Important! You can simply level it well, compact the soil, build a sand cushion and lay waterproofing. If this is not done, then moisture from the ground, penetrating capillarily into the brick, will quickly destroy it.
- The terrace porch of a brick house can be made monolithic. To do this, you need to set the formwork to the desired configuration and fill it with concrete mixture. If the structure is small, then reinforcement is not required, but if the volume is large, wire mesh with a diameter of 3–4 mm is laid in the steps.
Attaching the veranda to the main building
It is recommended to connect an old brick country house with a veranda built later through an expansion joint of 30-40 mm, otherwise seasonal shrinkage can damage the main building and harm the extension itself.
- After some time, when the ground movement stops, it will be possible to make a rigid connection between the veranda and the base.
- If brick houses with an attic and a terrace are built simultaneously on a single foundation, then rigid fastening of both buildings is done during the construction process, in this case the shrinkage of the house and veranda will occur evenly and will not harm the structure.
If you set yourself a goal, then making an extension to a brick house in your country house with your own hands is quite possible. We hope that the photos and videos in this article will provide you with the information you need and help turn your dream into reality.
The dining room is a nice place to have tea parties. You can build a veranda with your own hands using the tips from our article. We will tell you how to calculate the material, assemble the frame, etc. This will help you avoid mistakes and save time and money.
A veranda is an unheated extension to the main building, which adjoins one side to the house, combining the functions of a porch and a seating area. Unlike a terrace, it is built in the same style as the house and serves as shelter from rain and sun.
The veranda can be:
- with glazing (closed type);
- without glazing (open type).
Selection of materials for construction
When choosing materials, you should proceed from the fact that the veranda is most often constructed according to the principle of frame technology. For the racks, lower and upper trim, 150x150 mm timber is used. It can also be used for floor joists. To install the main floor trusses, you need a beam of a smaller cross-section - 80x100 mm. Intermediate rafters are made from 40x40 mm beams. The filling between the racks is made of 20 mm thick edged boards or vinyl siding.
It is necessary to construct a sheathing, which will require a beam of a smaller cross-section (40x20 mm) or a metal profile. Stiffening ribs made of the same timber are installed between the racks. The same timber is needed for the installation of roof sheathing. The ceiling is lined with 20 mm boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. For the floor, use a tongue and groove board with a thickness of at least 40 mm.
In order to know the exact amount of basic materials, before starting construction it is necessary to make a sketch of the future veranda, which will indicate all dimensions.
Veranda model with basic dimensions
Table. Consumables for building a veranda
| Name of material | Unit change | Qty | Average price, rub. | Total cost, rub. |
| Beam 150x150 mm (pine) | m/n | 45/1 m 3 | 7 500 | 7 500 |
| Beam 80x100 mm | m/n | 20/0.24 m 3 | 7 500 | 1 800 |
| Beam 40x40 mm | m/n | 20/0.24 m 3 | 8 500 | 2 040 |
| Beam 40x20 mm | m/n | 16/0.01 m 3 | 8 500 | 85 |
| Tongue board 40 mm | m 2 | 8 | 640 | 5 120 |
| Edged board 20 mm | m 2 | 6 | 280 | 1 680 |
| Ceramic brick ordinary M-100 | PC. | 250 | 12,50 | 3 125 |
| Bituminous shingles | m 2 | 10 | 460 | 4 600 |
| Ruberoid | roll | 1 | 250 | 250 |
| Cement | kg | 150 | 50 | 7 500 |
| Sand | m 3 | 2 | 120 | 240 |
| Wooden window block 1200x1000 | PC. | 8 | 4 400 | 35 200 |
| Wooden door block | PC. | 1 | 5 000 | 5 000 |
| Antiseptic | l | 5 | 380 | 380 |
| Total expenses will be | 76 920 |
The table shows the main materials. Some of them can be replaced, depending on personal preferences, for example, to fill between the racks you can use vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining or its variation - blockhouse.
Construction of a foundation for a veranda
For a lightweight structure (which includes a veranda), the best solution would be to build a columnar foundation. This will significantly reduce the cost and speed up construction.
Particular attention should be paid to the base elements located at the entrance: they must be stronger than others. This requirement is caused by the need to prevent the veranda from tilting away from the house, which often happens when the foundation pillars sag. This can be avoided by constructing additional supports.
The construction of a columnar foundation for the veranda is carried out in stages:
- The site is being prepared: trees and bushes are cut down, stumps are uprooted.
- Marking of installation locations for columnar foundation supports is carried out.
- Holes are dug below the freezing level of the soil (approximately 1.1-1.2 m), at the bottom of which a sand bedding 150 mm thick is placed. The sand must be moistened and compacted.
- Crushed stone is poured in a layer of about 100 mm.
- Crushed stone is poured with liquid cement-sand mortar, after which concreting is done on top of it. The concrete layer should also be about 100 mm.
- Roofing felt is laid on top of the concrete in two layers (for waterproofing). Brickwork is being carried out: brick columns of square section (one and a half bricks) are constructed. The height of the above-ground part should be such that the floor level of the veranda is slightly lower than the floor level of the main part of the house.
- All supports must be at the same level: this must be controlled using a water spirit level.
- After finishing the masonry, the holes are backfilled. The soil needs to be compacted.
- Two layers of roofing felt are also laid on top of the posts.
The pillars of a columnar foundation must be at the same level
Attention! It is impossible to leave unfinished construction for the winter: due to spring heaving of the soil, unloaded pillars may be unevenly displaced. It will be difficult to fix this.
Frame construction and wall construction
First, we install the lower frame from the timber (all connections are made only above the foundation post). The beams in the corners are joined halfway across the tree and a tenon is driven into a drilled hole with a diameter of 12 mm. To lay the logs, grooves are hollowed out every 50-60 cm.
The racks must be installed strictly vertically. They are secured with staples and special corner connectors. For ease of installation, the racks are temporarily fixed with jibs. The racks closest to the house should be made higher than those further away, so that the roof slope is at least 7°: this is necessary to ensure good drainage of rainwater and snow melting.
The frame of the veranda will become stronger after installing the window sill beams between the posts. The distance from the floor level is about 0.5 m (windows should be large).
The upper binding is performed in the same way as the lower one. Grooves are hollowed out for the sheathing beams.
In the squares formed by the beams of the lower trim, posts and window sill beams, diagonal elements are installed (crosswise), connecting them halfway - they will further strengthen the structure. The walls under the window are sheathed on the outside with boards or other suitable material (siding, panel panels, etc.). A heat-insulating material - mineral wool - is laid between the inner and outer cladding (if the veranda will not be used during the cold season, the insulation can be omitted).
Attention! The wood must be inspected and boards and beams with signs of rotting and insect pest passages must be rejected. All wooden elements of the frame should be treated with an antiseptic agent, and after installation, a paint coating should be applied.
Roof and floor installation
We lay sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards on top of the mounted sheathing. We use it as a roofing material: it will be more comfortable under such a roof when it rains. You should also install a gutter with a slope of 3-5° towards the water drainage area.
For the floor you need well-dried, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm. They are pressed tightly together, leaving a compensation gap of 5-10 mm at the edges.
Note: In order for the floor to serve for a long time, the space between the foundation supports is not sewn up, or vents (ventilation holes) are installed.
After this, a porch is attached to the veranda, doors are installed and glazing is performed. Windows can be with single glass: this is enough to protect against rain and wind. Window frames with double-glazed windows are necessary if the veranda is planned to be heated (in this case, all cracks must be foamed and covered with platbands).
The last step is finishing the interior. You can install a table for tea on the veranda, if the space allows - you can install a dressing table and decorate with flowers and climbing plants so that you can relax comfortably on the veranda during the summer heat or rain.
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