Safe protection of plants from diseases and pests in July and August. Tulips: cultivation and care

Growing and caring for tulips is not a tricky business, suitable even for beginners. This flower is associated with the onset of spring, with the first warm rays of the sun. Today, the tulip is perhaps the most popular, widespread decorative bulb culture.

Tulips bring into our lives an atmosphere of celebration, a joyful anticipation of the new garden season. These spring flowers delight with a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. Tulips of different classes adorn the garden from the snow melting to the beginning of summer.

But modern technologies now make it possible to grow this flower almost all year round. Tulips are among the best forcing plants. All the secrets of growing these amazing flowers in agricultural technology are based on knowledge of the biology of the tulip, as the most typical representative of the bulbs.

In autumn, from the moment of planting, active root growth begins, and a seedling emerges from the bulb, reaching the soil surface. And in this state, the plant hibernates! And in summer, the tulip falls into a state of deep dormancy, but this peace is only apparent: a new flower is formed in the mother bulb during this time.
The success of growing tulips depends on the right choice of planting site and proper soil preparation.

Selection of varieties for forcing

For forcing by the New Year, only those varieties can be used, the cooling period of which lasts at least 16 weeks, that is, early flowering. For early (by January) forcing, varieties such as Brilliant Star, Dixis Favorit, Christmas Marvel, Most Miles, Lustige Battle, Olga, Epricot Beauty and others are suitable.

Most of the forcing varieties are suitable for forcing tulips in the medium term (for example, by March 8), in particular, tulips from the Darwin hybrid class: Diplomat, London, Oxford, Oxfords Elite, Parade, Scarborough, Vivex, Eric Hoffsier, Apeldoorn, Apeldoorns Elite and many others.

For forcing by April, the following varieties are used: Ad Rem, America, Apel-dorn, Apeldoorns Elite, Burgundy Lace, Vivex, Gordon Cooper, Deidrim, Kis Nelis, Lin you der Mark, London, Oxford, Oxfords Elite, Parade, Fringit Elegance, Hibernia, Eric Hofsier.

Varieties suitable for forcing by May 1: Aristocrat, Diplomat, London, Negrita, Oxford, Parade, Temple of Beauty, Hibernia. In addition to those mentioned, many other varieties can be used for distillation.

Location selection

Often, due to unsuitable growth conditions created for the tulip, the bulbs rot and nothing grows. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to choose the appropriate place for planting tulips. It should be well lit and protected from strong cold winds. If there is not enough sun, the stems of tulips will stretch and twist, and the bulbs will not be able to accumulate an adequate supply of nutrients.
The site must have a flat surface and a permeable subsoil. The depth of the tulip root system in the soil is 65-70 cm. Therefore, the groundwater level should not rise above this mark. If the water rises higher, then this will lead to stagnation of water in the cavities, soaking and death of the bulbs.

When choosing a site, the size of the fertile layer is important, which should be at least 30 cm.
And the last thing to think about when choosing a place to plant a tulip is a good predecessor. It can be any flower or vegetable crop, except for bulbous and nightshade, whose viral diseases are transmitted to tulips.

Soil preparation for growing tulips

The main condition is good physical properties of the soil: sufficient moisture capacity, friability and air capacity, and natural fertility is replaced by fertilization and top dressing. The best soils for tulips are highly cultivated, humus-rich sandy loams and loams with a neutral reaction of the environment. Other soils are brought to the ideal by special techniques.
The disadvantage of sandy soils, in terms of growing tulips, is their rapid drying and nutrient poverty. More frequent watering of plants and regular top dressing can smooth out these defects.
Heavy clay soils need a more radical improvement: the introduction of coarse river sand (up to 20 kg per m2), peat, manure or other organic materials that increase water permeability and improve air access to the roots. If peat is used, neutralize its acidifying effect with lime (40-50 g per m2) or chalk (300-500 g per m2) - tulips grow best at a pH of 6.5-7.8. During the growing season, heavy soils need more frequent loosening.

Top dressing tulips

The first tillage for tulips is carried out in the year of planting in the spring to a depth of 30-35 cm with the incorporation of organic fertilizers (except for fresh manure), which, depending on the initial fertility of the land, must be applied from 10 to 50 kg per 1 m2. Fresh manure, if necessary, can also be used, but not earlier than a year before planting, in the fall. The second time they dig up the earth 20-30 days before planting the bulbs already to a depth of 20-25 cm and fill with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 30 g / m2 of double superphosphate and 40 g / m2 of potassium salt. On light soils, it is recommended to use a potassium fertilizer that does not contain chlorine - potassium sulfate - at a dose of 20 g / m2. Nitrogen fertilizers should be added directly when planting the bulbs (10 g/m2 of ammonium nitrate) or in the spring as top dressing. Mineral mixtures of the following composition can be used for tulips: on light soils - 6% nitrogen, 18% phosphorus, 18% potassium; on heavy soils - 12% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, 18% potassium.

planting tulips

The optimum temperature for good rooting of tulip bulbs is 6-10 C. At lower or higher values, roots form worse. Therefore, tulips should be planted when the temperature drops to 9 C in the soil at a depth of approximately 15 cm. In the middle lane, this usually happens in the second or third decade of September. You can plant until mid-October, but this is the deadline for planting, since the rooting process takes 2-3 weeks and must end before the onset of stable frosts. Early flowering tulips are planted one to two weeks earlier than late flowering tulips.

Inspect the bulbs carefully before planting. Their skin should be clean, without spots, and the bulb itself should be hard and heavy. Remove the skin from suspicious ones and, if there are spots on the white surface, destroy the bulb. For prevention, treat healthy bulbs with 0.2% foundationazole for 30 minutes, dry and plant. After wet processing, the bulbs are planted immediately, as moisture contributes to the formation of roots. The depth of planting and the distance in a row directly depend on the size of the bulb, the larger it is, the larger the feeding area it needs. Typically, planting depth is defined as 3 bulb heights and density as 2 bulb diameters.

Tulip Care

With good soil preparation, it is insignificant. If the autumn is dry, then the plantings must be watered, and so that the moisture soaks the ground to a depth of roots - 35 cm. Then they are mulched with weathered peat with a layer of 3 cm. In mid-October, 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 is added for better root growth. With the onset of frost, they cover with spruce branches - from mice and in case of a little snowy winter. Bulbs in autumn not only take root, but also form a sprout that almost reaches the surface of the earth. That is why in the spring so early, almost directly from under the snow, tubules of tulips appear. In severe winters, the flower bud can be damaged.

In spring, spruce branches are removed. This period of intensive development also accounts for the maximum need of plants for nitrogen, which we must immediately satisfy by carrying out the first top dressing at the rate of 40-50 g of the active ingredient of nitrogen fertilizer per 1 m2. After 10 days, the same is fed again with nitrogen fertilizers with the addition of potassium sulfate - 20 g, and after another two weeks - with one potassium sulfate, also 20 g per 1 m2. In the future, the soil is constantly loosened, especially heavy, and weeding is done in a timely manner. Tulips are also given 3-4 deep waterings. To soak the soil by 30 cm - the depth of the main mass of tulip roots - it may be necessary to pour several buckets of water (40-60 l) per 1 m2. On light soils, water more often, but with less water than on heavy soils. Moreover, they are watered until the yellowing of the aerial part begins, approximately within two weeks after the end of flowering. It is at this time that the growth of new bulbs continues. Faded flowers must be pinched off. This technique is called decapitation. For a bouquet, tulips are cut with one or two leaves, otherwise good bulbs will not work.

As a preventive measure, periodically carefully inspect the plantings and immediately remove plants with developmental abnormalities or signs of disease along with a clod of earth. This prevents the spread of infection, if any.

Tulip bulbs, digging and storage

During storage, stage by stage, the processes of formation of the future plant continue to go on in the bulbs. And so it is necessary to provide suitable storage conditions.

Dig up the bulbs at the time of yellowing of the aerial part, without waiting for complete drying. Otherwise, the nest will crumble, and some of the bulbs will remain in the ground. In the middle lane, usually at the end of June-mid-July. Nests are selected from the ground and placed in slatted boxes for drying, which should take place outdoors in the shade for 1-3 days.

Before placing the bulbs in storage, they are treated with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole, as described above. Then next spring, before planting, dressing is no longer carried out.

In the first month after digging the bulbs, in order to continue the development of the rudiments of the future flower, they should be kept at a temperature of about 22 C, humidity not more than 70% and intensive ventilation. Then the temperature is gradually reduced to 15-17°C, and the intensity of ventilation is reduced. The storage room for bulbs should be dark, without a source of daylight.

reproduction

Propagated by tulip bulbs. They are planted in autumn, at the end of September. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb, but not more than three times its height. With a deeper planting, the bulbs become smaller. After planting, the bulbs are mulched with peat or compost. It is better not to mulch immediately after planting, but when the soil freezes to a depth of 1-2 cm. Dig up the bulbs after the leaves turn yellow. They are dried, cleaned of old scales, sorted by size. Before planting, the bulbs are stored in boxes with a layer of 2-3 bulbs. The storage temperature should be around 20°C. Small bulbs grow on spare beds. They are sown in rows of 1-2 bulbs (double row) to a depth of 5-7 cm. The buds that appear in spring must be plucked, leaving a peduncle.

Tulip varieties

About 3,500 species and varieties are registered in the International Book of Tulips. But the most common varieties are only about 150. All of them are good for growing in gardens and flower beds. But not all varieties are suitable for distillation, but only some.

Varieties of tulips suitable for distillation. "Apricot Beauty", "Christmas Marvel" and some others. In February - early March, most varieties of the Darwin hybrids group bloom. Suitable for late distillation in April-May are "Parade", "Diplomat" and "Oxford".

fringed tulips

Among the thousands of varieties of tulips, there is a small group of those that invariably attract attention, causing surprise and admiration. These tulips are called fringed. Their flowers are notable for the fact that along the edges of the petals there is a fringe of hard needle-like outgrowths of different lengths sticking out in all directions. At the top of the petals, the fringe is thickest and longest.
Among the 53 varieties of fringed tulips, there are early, mid-blooming and late, some of them are suitable for forcing. Tulip "Fringed Beauty" is not only fringed, but also super terry.
The flowers of fringed tulips are hard to the touch and especially durable, and, therefore, resistant to rain, wind, and sun. They keep their perfect shape until the last second of their life, both in the garden and in the bouquet. Fringed tulips are of great interest to amateur flower growers because of the exotic shape of the flowers.

Planting material preparation

During the entire forcing process, the tulip feeds only on the substances accumulated in the bulb, so the success of the forcing largely depends on the planting material used. The bulbs used for forcing must be absolutely healthy, without mechanical damage, and have a rounded shape. Bulbs "extra" or 1st parsing weighing 30 g are suitable for distillation - for varieties from the class Darwin hybrids and at least 25 g - for varieties from other classes. It is not advisable to use bulbs of smaller parsing, as this drastically reduces the decorative qualities of flowers and the number of flowering plants.
Before planting for forcing, it is advisable to clean the bulbs from the outer covering scales. Firstly, by removing the scales from the bulb, it is possible to identify spots of the disease that have not been noticed until that moment and promptly discard the affected bulb. Secondly, a bulb without covering scales takes root faster and easier, the presence of dense scales leads to the fact that the roots begin to grow along the bulb, thereby pushing it to the surface, which ultimately affects the decorative qualities of the tulip.

Whole distillation cycle can be roughly divided into three stages:
1. Storage of bulbs after digging out of open ground.
2. Rooting (at low temperatures).
3. Actually distillation (growing tulips in a heated room until flowering).

Preparing bulbs for forcing they begin even during their growth in open ground: plants intended for forcing are carefully cared for, which will contribute to increased accumulation of nutrients in the bulbs. Care consists in the implementation of a full range of agrotechnical measures and mandatory decapitation.

The most important at the first stage of distillation (during storage of bulbs) is the temperature regime. By changing the temperature in one direction or another, you can control the development of tulips and, to some extent, the timing of their flowering. The temperature effect on the bulbs during their storage consists of two stages: the first is exposure to high temperatures, the second is low temperatures.

The mode of storage of bulbs prepared for forcing differs slightly from the mode of storage of bulbs that will be planted in open ground. The storage mode differs significantly only for those bulbs that are intended for early and late forcing. After digging the bulbs, which is carried out at the usual time for tulips, they are stored at a temperature of 20-23 ° C for a month. This temperature is considered optimal for the formation of flower primordia in the bulb. Then, during the month (August), the temperature is maintained at about 20 ° C, and in September it drops to 16-17 ° C. Such storage temperatures approximately correspond to the average temperatures in these months, therefore, during storage, no special equipment is required to maintain the specified regime in the storage. Minor deviations from the specified temperatures do not have a significant effect on plants. However, with significant temperature deviations in any direction, the processes of laying the primordia of the flower in the bulb slow down or anomalies appear in the form of "blind" buds.

The difficulty of forcing for the New Year lies in the fact that by the time the bulbs begin to cool, all parts of the future flower must be fully formed in them. In the middle lane, the beginnings of a flower are fully formed by mid-August, and with a cool and rainy summer, this period can move back another month. To speed up the laying of all the organs of the flower and start cooling the bulbs at the scheduled time, there are two ways: agrotechnical and physico-chemical. The agrotechnical method consists in the fact that tulips are grown under a film and the flowers are decapitated. This method allows you to speed up the process of laying all the organs of the future flower by 2-3 weeks.

The second way is to dig up the bulbs early. The bulbs are dug up as soon as yellowish spots appear on their covering scales. Then the bulbs are kept at a temperature of +34 ° C for a week. This temperature also helps to accelerate the process of laying the organs of the future flower in the bulb. Bulbs prepared in this way from mid-August until planting are stored in the lower section of a conventional home refrigerator.

The purpose of this preparation is to retard the development of leaf buds in the bulb and thereby enable the rudiments of flower organs to form faster in it. Planting and rooting bulbs

The substrate for planting bulbs can be any moisture-absorbing and breathable material with a neutral reaction. It can be pure river sand (used by Dutch flower growers), a mixture of sand and peat, pure peat, vermiculite, perlite, or a mixture of sand and garden soil. Even sawdust can be used as a substrate for distillation, but they do not retain moisture well, so frequent watering will be required during the rooting period. In addition, the substrate for distillation must have a neutral reaction (pH - 6.5-7), so sawdust and peat must be limed. Garden soil in its pure form, without any baking powder, is also not advisable to use, since it becomes very compacted during irrigation.

Optimal for forcing is a substrate of the following composition: 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of well-rotted manure or compost and 1 part of river sand. It is useful to add wood ash to this mixture. It is better not to use land from greenhouses, greenhouses, as well as poorly rotted manure - this is a favorable environment for the development of pathogens.

The prepared substrate is poured into containers (pots, boxes, bowls) by 2/3 and slightly compacted. The bulbs are laid out on the surface of the soil at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from each other, while slightly pressing their bottoms into the soil. Then the bulbs are covered to the very top with prepared substrate or clean sand to the edges of the container. It is important that homogeneous planting material is planted in one container - to ensure its simultaneous flowering. After planting, the bulbs are watered abundantly. It is advisable to pour them with a solution of 0.2% calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). If after watering the tops of the bulbs are exposed and the soil has settled, the substrate must be topped up. It is important that there is a small layer of soil above the bulbs, otherwise, when they take root, the bulbs may bulge out of the ground. After that, the containers with bulbs are transferred to the basement, cellar or other room with a temperature of 0 to 10 ° C (the optimum temperature is 5-9 ° C).
Until mid-December, the bulbs need to be watered weekly and the air humidity in the room should be maintained at least 75-80%. Rooting and germination of tulips, depending on the variety, lasts from 16 to 22 weeks. By the end of December, the temperature in the room where the bulbs are stored is lowered to + 2-4 ° C and maintained. Such a decrease in temperature will prevent the tulips from stretching the sprouts.

Forcing mode

As a rule, tulips are transferred to a heated room for distillation 3 weeks before flowering. But it should be borne in mind that the earlier the forcing is carried out, the more time should elapse from the moment the tulips are transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and vice versa. Usually, by the time the plants are transferred to a warm room, tulip sprouts reach a height of 5-8 cm.

Containers with rooted bulbs are transferred to a room with a temperature of 12-15 ° C, while the lighting in the first 3-4 days should be weak. If the tulip sprouts have not grown enough, they are covered with dark paper caps, which are regularly removed and ventilated. After 3-4 days, the temperature is raised to 16-18 ° C and full lighting is given, while it is desirable to additionally highlight the plants for 3-5 hours a day, and if there is a lack of sun, this is simply necessary, otherwise the tulips will be very stretched.

When the tulip buds are colored, the temperature is somewhat reduced (up to 14-15 ° C), which will extend the flowering period of the plants, the peduncles will be stronger, and the flowers will be more brightly colored.

Plants are watered daily and occasionally fertilized with calcium nitrate. Top dressing has a positive effect on the decorativeness of tulips and increases the number of flowers. It is advisable not to keep containers with flowering plants in the sun, as this shortens the duration of flowering.

Growing bulbs after forcing

There is an opinion among flower growers that the bulbs used for forcing are not suitable for further cultivation and are easier to throw away. But if you wish, you can grow them.

When forcing low-growing varieties of tulips (with short peduncles), flowers from plants are usually cut off without leaving leaves on the bulb. In this case, 3 weeks after cutting, the bulbs are dug up. If, after cutting the flowers, leaves were left on the bulb (when growing varieties with long peduncles, for example, from the Darwin hybrid class), then they continue to be watered and kept at maximum light until the leaves turn yellow. In this case, quite large replacement bulbs and a large baby can be obtained from some varieties.

After digging, the bulbs are dried for 2 weeks at a temperature of 24 ° C, then a month at 17-20 ° C and then until planting in the ground - at a temperature of 14-15 ° C. This storage mode allows you to keep the bulbs in a normal state before planting (they do not dry out and do not start growing prematurely).

After forcing, the bulbs are planted in open ground at the usual time for tulips. It is not advisable to grow the bulbs used for early forcing, as they do not form large replacement bulbs and produce few large babies. It takes more than one year to grow such bulbs before they bloom.

Description of a tulip for children in an artistic style will help to compose the examples presented.

Tulip plant description

My favorite flower would be the tulip. This flower is very fragile and so delicate that it takes your breath away.

The tulip reminds me of a beautiful young girl. This is due to the slenderness of the flower, I guess. The tulips bow their heads just as modestly before they open. A tulip bud on a flexible straight stem is a real work of art. Their petals are so delicate, as if they were made of silk or some other magical fabric. You touch them and you are afraid to crush them.

Tulips come in a variety of colors. The most common are red ones, and inside there is a yellow cup with pollen in a black frame. Such tulips grow, for example, in the garden of my grandparents. And there are also soft pink, yellow, white, spotted tulips, with and without fringe, and also scarlet, purple! There are no varieties of tulips! Flower growers even brought out black tulips, they are just handsome.

Tulips are very beautiful when they bloom. And the most wonderful tulips that I have ever seen grew in a flower bed near the theater. They were rare. These tulips had a soft pink color, even white-pink, the shade was so delicate. And the sun shone through the thinnest petals. On the lawn grass of the flower bed, these tulips looked simply divine.

Text description of the tulip plant

Tulips are spring flowers that are a symbol of spring and warmth. Tulips amaze with their juicy and bright color.

Tulips have come a long way to our country. The first mention of these flowers we meet in Persia. Only in the middle of the 16th century tulips were brought to Europe, where they began to be introduced very successfully in different countries. Some peoples, such as the Dutch, were so captivated by the charm of these amazing flowers that they even abandoned their production and farms to breed tulips. This love of flowers resulted in the fact that today the bright tulip bulbs are a symbol of the Netherlands.

Holding a bouquet of yellow, red and even purple tulips in your hands, you want to enjoy life even more. With their elegance and at the same time unpretentiousness, they emphasize the power of nature, which awakens and renews itself. And if you ask me what is the best gift for me, I will answer that it is a bunch of plump and round tulips with juicy red petals.

Text description of the tulip grade 3

The sight and smell of tulips fill us with joy, serenity and tranquility. Tulip petals give a unique look to the flower, create an atmosphere of friendliness and fidelity. The stalk of this flower resembles a slender girl. It is very thin and greenish. It is very difficult to imagine how the stem can withstand the mighty flower head on itself. And its gorgeous leaves? When you see them, you just want to smile and rejoice.

Hello dear friends!

Today we will talk about the features growing tulips about how they differ from others

There is no such garden where tulips do not bloom and already in April their pointed seedlings pierce the melting snow - the leaves begin to grow.

And after 20-30 days they bloom and we can admire their luxurious flowering for up to 35 days.

In order to make it easy and enjoyable, you must follow a number of simple rules.

Growing Rules

1. Immediately at the beginning of spring, as soon as the snow melts (and even better in the snow), you need to feed the tulips with chemical fertilizers - 15-30 g per 1 m 2 , but not more. When fertilizing, try to remember that tulips do not grow well with high salt concentrations in the soil and therefore only half the dose recommended for bulb crops should be applied. I usually feed tulips with nitroammophos or special fertilizers for garden flowers: the first dressing is in the snow, the second is at the beginning of budding, the third is a week after flowering.

By the state of the appearance of tulips, you can determine which elements are missing in the soil. For example, if there is not enough nitrogen, then the leaf plates of the tulip become narrow and are no longer able to maintain a vertical position. The stems and leaves, at the same time, gradually acquire a red tint. With a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil, a blue-green color appears along the edges of the tulip leaves.

2. The main spring care for tulips is to remove diseased plants, moreover, along with the bulb, roots and adjacent soil. At the same time, the hole is filled with a solution of potassium permanganate, which is sometimes recommended to be heated to a temperature of 70-100 ° C.

All agricultural practices - loosening, weeding, fertilizing, removing diseased and viral plants - must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the leaves and roots of healthy plants, because they are the ones that “feed” the bulb.

Leaves, stems, flowers grow very quickly in tulips, and even underground, active work is underway to increase the size of the daughter bulb and grandchild bulbs are laid. And this explains their short period of life. These rapid processes require large amounts of nutrients and moisture in the soil. Therefore, during the period of budding and flowering, especially in the absence of rain, it is necessary to water the plants regularly. And also, in order to get a properly formed large replacement bulb, tulips must be watered for another two weeks after flowering.

In order to get large flowers in the second year and so that the bulb does not break up into small onions, a seed box should not be allowed to appear - when the flower begins to fade, you need to immediately remove it (tear off with your hands, not cut with a knife). At the same time, it is imperative to leave at least two leaves on the stem, because the future flower and bulb will feed on them.

Tulips love sun and well-drained, light soil. As a rule, bulbs are dug up every year, but if you plant tulips deeper and remember to feed them during growth and after flowering, they can grow in one place for several years. I transplant tulips every 3-4 years.

In June, as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, dig up the bulbs, dry them in the shade and store them in boxes until autumn, signing the name of the variety. Tulip bulbs can't stand direct sunlight. and, therefore (I want to repeat once again) they must be dried in the shade, in a well-ventilated place.

In September, it's time to plant tulips on the ridges. To do this, we make trenches 30 cm wide and about 20 cm deep. We pour superphosphate on the bottom. Attention! I remind you that in no case should you put manure under tulips (as well as under all bulbs), as this leads to rotting of the bulbs. First, we lay out large bulbs in trenches with the bottom down and lightly sprinkle with earth. Then we plant smaller ones between them and sprinkle again, and lay out the children along the edges. From above we fall asleep with the remaining earth. With this planting, the beds look more decorative in spring and there is no need to dig up tulips every year.

3. In winters with little snow, severe freezing of the soil to a depth of up to 20 cm is possible. If tulips survive the freezing temperature of the soil to minus 4 ° C without consequences and bloom normally in the spring, then freezing to minus 9 ° C is fraught with various deformations of the flower. Therefore, after the first frost, when the soil freezes at night and thaws during the day, it is better to cover the plantings of tulips with peat, humus, sawdust or straw with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Diseases and pests

If the tulip bulbs have sprouted, but the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, then we can talk about the disease of the plant. Very often, diseases spread after damage by both a root onion mite, a bear, click beetles, and mechanical ones.

Symptoms fusarium rot (fusarium) are: sudden yellowing and drying of the ground part of the plant, the bulbs begin to turn brown and dry, a weak grayish coating of mycelium with spores appears.

penicillium rot manifests itself as follows: the scales on the surface of the bulb begin to turn yellow and then dense bluish-green sporulation rapidly grows. Rotting begins with flower buds and flower stalks and very often the bulb rots completely.

Bacterial rot (bacteriosis) develops mainly as a result of damage to the root onion mite, which feeds on the bottom and young roots of the bulb, sometimes nematodes also provoke the disease. With this disease, the bulbs turn brown and rot, an unpleasant odor appears.

One of the most common and dangerous viral diseases of tulips is considered variegation virus. Outwardly, it appears on the petals of tulips in the form of various stripes and specks, which often look decorative and unusual. However, the virus infects all parts of the plant, slows down metabolic processes, provokes a delay in flowering and early yellowing of the leaves.

Or maybe you have your own interesting secrets in growing tulips, dear readers? Share with us!

In this article we will consider in detail such a flower as a tulip.

In this article we will consider a very beautiful and delicate flower - a tulip. And also we will try to tell you the most detailed information about the flower.

What does a tulip flower look like: photo

One of the first flowers that can be found already in March is a tulip. Incredibly delicate and stable type of Liliaceae, which can stand for a long time even after being cut. Therefore, women are very fond of such flowers on one of the most famous spring holidays - March 8th.

• Recognizing a tulip among other flowers is very easy. There is always one bud on the stem, although there are also many-flowered species, but quite rarely. One flower consists of 6 petals, simple or double. The most common flower shape is goblet, but there are others, such as star-shaped, cup-shaped, lily-colored.
• To date, you can find tulips not only of different shapes, but also of various colors, from white to even blue flowers. There are also bicolor and variegated varieties of tulips.
• The stem is straight and has round sections. From the middle of the stem, from 2 to 6 elongated petals depart, depending on the type of plant. The color of the leaves also ranges from bright colors to bluish, and striped leaf species are also found.

It is very easy to grow flowers and you can meet tulips in almost every summer cottage. Tulips are unpretentious, but still love warmth, so if the soil does not warm up to a certain temperature by spring, the flower does not groan to open buds, but the leaves will grow at the same time. Also, in sunny weather, the flower opens its petals, and after sunset, it closes. Tulips are planted in bulbs that can delight with their flowering for at least 6 years.

Tulip consists of:

• Bulbs - from which a flower is grown
• tulip root
• Stolona - an underground plant stem that is intended for nutrition, vegetative propagation and protection
• fruiting stalk
• Leaves
• Colors

Tulip ordinary - the birthplace of the plant

Tulips are perennial flowers that belong to the Liliaceae family, monocot class and the Tulip genus. In Europe, the word "tulip" came from the Ottoman-Persian dictionary and means a fabric for a national headdress. After all, the flower petals are incredibly delicate and pleasant to the touch.

Tulips are considered the most famous spring flowers, and everything is considered to be the homeland of Central Asia, or rather Persia, but today you can find many types of tulips in Kazakhstan, Turkey, India, Europe, etc. By the way, in Turkey already in the 16th century more than 300 species of plants such as tulips were known.

The main supplier of most flowers is Holland. And since 1702, during the reign of Peter I, a department was created, whose duties included the supply of flowers from Holland.

Tulip: characteristics of a plant for children

Tulips are incredibly beautiful flowers and quite unpretentious in their care and cultivation, which is why they are well-deservedly popular in countries with a temperate climate. The structure of the flower is very simple, but depending on the type of plant, the shape and size of the petals, leaves and stem can change.

There are countless varieties of such a popular flower, there are 114 main species and a huge number of hybrids. Conventionally, tulips can be divided into the following subspecies:

• Simple - they resemble a glass in shape, have one bud, a stem about 30 cm high, and is considered low. Later types of simple tulips have large flowers and reach a height of up to 75 cm.
• Terry species have large and heavy flowers, and the stem does not grow above 25 cm. Often these flowers have a very bright color.
• Fringed - unique in that it has a fringe on the edges of the petals, and therefore an incredibly beautiful look of tulips. The height of the stem reaches 80 cm.
• The lily-colored look is sophisticated and really resembles a lily, but it has a very bright color, and can also have several colors.
• Parrot tulips are distinguished by an amazing shape that resembles parrot feathers, and are also characterized by a very colorful color, ranging from a combination of light shades to a combination of pink and black.
• Green-colored tulips get their name from the green back of the petals.

Tulip is a perennial plant that blooms by the beginning of spring, but with the advent of summer the leaves fall off. And a flower can be renewed annually for 5-6 years, of course, depending on the type of plant. Often, tulip hybrids have a lifespan of no more than 26 months.

Today, tulips are used not only for decoration, but also have found application for the beneficial properties of the flower in cosmetology and medicine. Tulip oil is suitable for the treatment of rashes, and in folk medicine, tulip is used to treat cardiovascular diseases. The petals, leaves, and bulbs of the flower are considered edible and are widely sought after in culinary arts around the world.

What family of plants does the tulip belong to?

The Lily (Onion) family includes many representatives that are distributed throughout the globe. The entire genus Tulip belongs to this family. Many species of this genus are decorative and beautiful, flowering plants, which are characterized by the formation of storage organs, such as: bulb, rhizome and corm.

• The leaves have an elongated long shape, and are always whole.
• Due to the presence of bulbs and rhizomes, all Liliaceae are perennials and are resistant to weather changes. Of course, if this does not damage the root system of the plant. It is laid only once and is not restored after damage.
• The flowers are often regular in shape and slightly more developed on one side, that is, they belong to two-symmetrical plants.
• Representatives of this family are distributed mostly in temperate regions, but are also found in hot countries.
• Plants of this family reproduce vegetatively (rhizomes) or seeds.

There are many subspecies of the Lily family, for example, technical, vegetable, medicinal, decorative. Tulips belong to the latter species.

What is the shape, height of the plant of a tulip flower?

For many people, spring is associated with an incredible flower - a tulip. Such unpretentious flowers have become loved by many gardeners and summer residents, and therefore today you can find an incredible number of their varieties.

• Due to the fact that tulips are perennial and do not require special care, it is planted on an industrial scale. The shape of the petals, the height of the stem depends on the type of plant. Height ranges from 5 to 90 cm.
• The stem has a cylindrical straight shape, but can sag under the weight of heavy buds in some species of this genus.
• The bluish tint of the petals gives a certain wax coating, the petals have an elongated shape.
• At the very top of the stem there is a flower, but if the plant is multicolored, then there can be from 2 or more buds. An ordinary flower has only 6 petals and 6 stamens, but this number may vary depending on the type of tulip. The color of the bud also depends on the species, and recently you can find the most unusual colors of tulips on shop windows and in the gardens of housewives, for example, purple, snow-white, purple and even almost black flowers.

The length of the flower itself can reach up to 12-15 cm, while the diameter ranges from 3 to 12 cm, and when opened, up to 20 cm.

The shape of the bud can be very different and it depends on the type of tulip:

• lily-shaped
• stellate
• goblet
• Cupped

How many petals does a tulip have: quantity

Tulips are very common and popular ornamental flowers that come in a huge number of varieties and shapes. Of course, often the petals are almost the same shape and size, arranged in two rows. In an ordinary flower, a bud has 6 petals, respectively, if there are 3-5 buds on the peduncle, then there will be 18-30 petals.

But even among the classic lily-like species, and natural tulips, you can find flowers with 8 petals, and therefore the number of petals on various types of this kind of flowers ranges from 5 to 10 per bud.

Due to the fact that tulips have a huge number of varieties, while they adapt perfectly to various countries of the world, this flower is very popular among gardeners.

Description of a tulip - forms of petals, stem, leaves, color, aroma

A tulip is an incredibly beautiful flower, in many countries it is a symbol of love and happiness, so giving a red bouquet of tulips is a declaration of love. Also, they say that yellow flowers should not be given to anyone - to separation, but it is considered most of all just such flowers as tulips, because. yellow is a symbol of sadness.

The tulip consists of the following parts:

• The roots are numerous and thin, unbranched.
• The stem is straight, branching only if several buds are placed on the pedicel. Height ranges from 5 cm to 1 meter depending on the type of plant
• The leaves have an elongated shape and a bluish color, due to the wax coating on the surface. The number of leaves can be from 1 to 12
• The fruit of the plant is a box with seeds, which is formed after flowering and drying. Further, with the help of the wind, these seeds are carried over long distances.
• The bulb resembles an ordinary onion, thanks to it the flower is perennial and withstands temperature extremes.
• The stolon is the inner stem that feeds the plant.
• Flowers have a variety of shapes, depending on the species. The shape of the petals can be oval, round, elongated, pointed, diamond-shaped and with fringed edges, etc.

The colors are also very diverse, there are both monochromatic petals and a combination of different shades, and even with the addition of blotches and stripes. The tulip is an amazing creation of nature, which has a unique fresh aroma, which is associated with spring, the beginning of life and flowering. Flowers after the cut will delight not only the eye for a long time, but also fill the room with a pleasant aroma. Unfortunately, tulip oil is almost impossible to obtain and therefore artificial tulip scents are used in the perfume industry.

Video: Varieties of tulips

Tulips (Tulipa)- perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the lily family (Liliaceae). They deservedly enjoy wide popularity and are common in all countries with a temperate climate. Tulips are the most beautifully blooming among spring flowers and are also relatively unpretentious in cultivation.

Bulb tulip consists of a bottom (very shortened stem) and 1 - 6 closed, fleshy, storage scales in which nutrients are deposited. From above, the bulb is covered with covering scales, which protect it from external adverse influences. Its color can be brown, brown - black and reddish - brown. The size and shape of the bulbs are very diverse and are characteristic of certain types and varieties of tulips.

A small thickening stands out along the edges of the bottom on the outside of the bulb - this is the root roller, in which the rudiments of future roots are laid.

In the first years, stolons are often formed in juvenile (before the first flowering) small bulbs - rounded, hollow, special outgrowths from the bottom of the bulb several times thicker than the root. At the bottom of the stolon cavity there is a bud displaced from the bulb, which grows, forms into a new bulb and occupies a deeper (up to 50 cm) position relative to the original plant.

Stem tulip It is represented by three main forms: the bottom, the stolon and the stem of a generative shoot with a pedicel. The latter consists of a segment of the stem from the bottom leaf to the end of the bulb; the middle segment, bearing green leaves, and the upper part of the pedicel, which is a direct continuation of the main axis. The stem of the generative shoot is cylindrical, erect, 5 to 100 cm high (in culture).

Leaves smooth or wavy, elongated - lanceolate, stem leaves from the base of the stem to its middle. On an adult plant, usually 2-4 leaves, in juveniles - always only 1 leaf.

Coloration from bright to bluish-green. Some species and their hybrids have purple-brown spots and stripes on the upper side of the leaf.

Flower usually one (in some species, varieties and varieties up to 5 or more). The stamens and tepals are arranged in circles. Their number is 6. Tepals without nectaries, have a bright color of various tones.

Stamens alternate with outer and inner circles of tepals. The anthers are attached to the filaments by the base. Their color is yellow, rarely black or purple.

The shape of the flower is the most diverse: bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, goblet and other. The ovary is three-celled, consists of three carpels with a sessile stigma. In each of the nests there are two rows of ovules tightly adjacent to each other.

Fetus tulip - dry box, which is formed from the ovary. The bolls open with three longitudinal fissures along the midrib of each carpel.

seeds flat, rounded - triangular in shape, covered with a brown - brown shell. A columnar embryo is clearly visible through the transparent endosperm.