We build a rabbitry with our own hands in detail. Convenient do-it-yourself rabbitry

Keeping long-eared animals has long been practiced by industrial farms and ordinary people who have decided to organize a small farm on their property. Keeping furry animals is a pleasure, as they do not require constant attention and are quite easy to care for. For the business to be successful, you need to provide the animals with comfortable living conditions. Today we will tell you what rabbit cages you can make with your own hands.

When choosing a place for the future residence of animals and installing their cage houses, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected territory.

Cages for eared animals can be placed:

• on the street;
• indoors.

Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located in the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in winter, animals will not survive outside without shelter. If you and your rabbits are planning to live in just such a fertile place, consider the following rules.

1. The level of air humidity that rabbits tolerate well has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically endure a greater percentage of it; they will begin to waste away and get sick. Based on this, the place to install the cages should be dry, located far from bodies of water, preferably on a hill.
2. There are recommendations regarding sun exposure as well. Eared animals like to bask under them only in cartoons; in life, this will only bring harm and lead to widespread diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from falling on the cages, install them in the shade of garden trees or arrange canopies. If rabbit breeding is your life's work, you can plant a bush fence that will scatter the sun's rays, letting them pass through.

During insulation, pay attention to those cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits.

Requirements for indoor housing for rabbits

Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits

Building a comfortable hutch for rabbits is less than half the battle. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read on to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what are the differences in the methods of keeping them.

Let's start building

Before starting construction work, you need to correctly select the materials that will be used in the process.

Necessary materials

When creating housing for rabbits, it is better to give preference to natural materials in order to bring the keeping of animals as close as possible to natural conditions. Therefore, as a basis for the cells, it is necessary to choose high-quality wooden blocks, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.

Additionally, to build cells we will need:

• boards and quality wood;
• thin plywood;
• fine-mesh welded mesh;
• wooden slats, 3-4 centimeters wide;
• metal wire of medium thickness;
• wide plastic trays according to the size of the cells;

It is best to line the inner surface of the cage walls with plywood, as it is a moisture-resistant and strong material. Chipboard, for example, is not suitable for such a purpose, since it absorbs moisture and collapses due to swelling.

What types of cages are there for rabbits?

All rabbit cages are built according to some general principles, however, they still have differences. All the nuances of construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cages being built. There will be at least several species in your household, and here's why.

As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of future residents. However, for each of them there are general construction instructions, which vary depending on the goals. Let's start looking at it.

Important nuances

Before we announce the instructions themselves, let’s discuss some important points. The standard dimensions of a spacious rabbit hutch are:

• 120-170 centimeters in length;
• about 50 centimeters in height;
• 70-80 centimeters wide.

As a rule, if the cell parameters change, only the length is reduced. The height and width remain standard, since these are the parameters that are most comfortable for care.

Mixing rabbits of different genders in the same cage is prohibited, as this can lead to:

• uncontrolled matings;
• difficult to track pregnancies;
• fights between males for the attention of females;
• fights of females for the attention of males;
• strangling of each other's offspring by warring females.

Instructions for building a rabbit cage yourself

So, let's move on to the step-by-step instructions for building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared animals, consisting of two sections. Adults will live in one of them, and pregnant queens with offspring will live in the second. For a while, until you have a nursing female with cubs, you can put houses for rabbits in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when they are in a bad mood and want to take a break from their furry roommates.

Let's start building.

Step 1

Take the prepared wooden beams and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent the tree from rotting and the penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structure, which can subsequently ruin the health of the eared animals.

Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle as possible and not contain large amounts of chlorine, which burns wood and destroys its structure. This is important because the cells are used mercilessly and it is necessary that they last a long time.

Step 2

Take a wooden beam prepared ahead of time and saw it so that you get parts with the following parameters:

• 4 beams of 1.5 meters each;
• the same number of bars 55 centimeters each;
• two pairs of bars 70 centimeters each.

Instead of four bars 55 centimeters long, you can make only two and two more 35 centimeters each. The smaller ones will be installed as frame pieces for the back of the cage where we will place the queen nest.

Step 3

Connect the shortest and half-meter beams together to create two identical shapes. If the parameters of the bars for the frame of the front and back of the cage are the same, then you will get a rectangle; if they are different, you will get a trapezoid.

Step 4

Now connect the rectangles together using pieces of wood 70 centimeters long. You should end up with a wooden frame structure that resembles a large box in shape.

Step 5

Let's start installing the floor. It can be made from several different materials. We present a comparative table of the pros and cons of each of them.

Metallic profile		Fine mesh		Wood slats
+	-	+	-	+	-
long lifespan; ease of care.	you will have to weld the grate yourself; The cells should be small so that the rabbits’ paws do not fall inside.	easy to install; easy to clean.	may tear; service life depends very much on the quality of welding; rabbits can damage their paws.	environmentally friendly material; easy to install.	if handled poorly, rabbits can get a splinter; rots and requires replacement after a short service life.

A good solution would be to use combinations, for example, the first layer can be made from a metal profile welded in the usual way, without small and frequent holes. The second layer is made of fine mesh. The profile will prevent it from deforming and this floor will last a long time.

It is impossible to make a non-mesh floor in the main compartment, since animal feces will pass through the holes and accumulate in the tray under the cage.

Install the selected material on most of the future floor of the cage and secure it with fasteners. Leave 40-50 centimeters blank

Step 6

The remaining unfilled space under the floor must be made of wood and solid, since the rabbit’s nest will be located there. It is best to screw a board to the beams, which must be well sanded so that the animal does not get injured. At the junction of the cells and the board, screw in a metal strip and weld the mesh to it.

Step 7

Let's start covering the walls. The back one is also made from boards polished and impregnated with gentle antiseptics. The front one is made of mesh so that you can observe what your pets are doing. Leave the ceiling unclogged.

Step 8

We line the plank walls from the inside of the cage using plywood. The material must be multi-layered and of good quality. The thickness can be any, but you don’t need to take a very thick sheet so as not to make the structure too weighty.

You can fasten plywood using self-tapping screws or nails. The main thing is that the sharp part of the nail does not come out and does not injure you when caring for the cage.

Step 9

We are building a roof. To do this we need a sheet of plywood and hinges, like on doors or cabinets. First, we screw the hinges to one of the upper beams of the frame, then we plant a sheet of good plywood on them. Here it is better to choose a thicker material, because the roof of the house will constantly rise and fall. Make sure it fits snugly. If there are large gaps between the frame and the roof, harmful drafts cannot be avoided.

If it was not possible to fit the lid to the frame tightly, do not despair. Take some felt or padding polyester and cover the perimeter of the roof. This can be done even if there are no cracks, since in winter such insulation will be useful for long-eared ones.

Step 10

At the junction of the wire mesh and the boards, install a board that goes from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. Make a medium-sized hole in advance so that the rabbits can move freely from one cage to another.

Step 11

Place the cages on supports that have been previously installed in the rabbitry. Now, mount the tray from the bottom of the cage. It can only match the size of the mesh part of the floor, since the feces of the rabbit and baby rabbits will not leak through the wooden floors.

Step 12

Now install feeders and drinkers inside the cages. You can also make them yourself from wood, in the form of small troughs. Be sure to find a place for hay as well. Some rabbit breeders place it in homemade hanging structures so that rabbits can reach it and at the same time not trample it, turning it into bedding.

Now that you have learned how to make the simplest version of rabbit cages, let's turn our attention to other popular options.

Family cage

The family home for long-eared animals no longer consists of two, but of three sections. A breeding male with good quality characteristics of health and appearance is settled there. Females live in the side compartments, and males live in the middle compartment. Between the rooms there are manholes, this time with valves. This is necessary so that at the moment one of the females is ready to conceive offspring, release her to the inseminator, and then do the same with the other rabbit.

This option for constructing cages is considered very effective for breeding purebred animals, as it allows you to sort out suitable individuals in advance and track upcoming pregnancies.

Construction Features

Let's name some points in building cells from three sections that will help you during construction.

Cages for rabbits in two tiers

The construction of a two-tier rabbit hutch structure is not too different from a single-tier one. Such a structure will have the following parameters:

• height 2 - 2.5 meters;
• width 1.4 meters;
• Along the edges of the structure, every 10 centimeters are allocated for the installation of feeders.

The dimensions may vary depending on your idea, but making the cage smaller is not rational.

Construction instructions

So, let's start building a two-tier cage.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Exactly the same as in the first instructions, we connect the bars to make four frame frames. Each of them will serve as the bottom and top of two cells. We also saw off eight bars of equal height for the corner parts of the cell “skeleton”.
	Step 2. Making floors for cages. The larger part, as in the case of a single-tier structure, will be mesh, the smaller part will be solid, made of boards. We leave a small distance of about 10 centimeters at the back wall, where we will place a drain for animal waste. This distance should be covered with a dense mesh with cells larger than the main one for the floor.
	Step 3. The back wall is made of boards, then lined with plywood on the inside. The side and front walls are also equipped with mesh with medium-sized cells.
	Step 4. Using slats and metal plugs, we separate the inside of the house for the eared compartments, leaving between them space for a hay barn in the shape of the English letter “V”.
	Step 5. We attach metal sheets to the waste disposal compartment that go to the tray under the cage. Each cage has its own collection of excrement and is installed so that it can be pulled out and cleaned. For the upper tier it is placed on the ceiling of the lower one, and for the lower one - on special corners of the stand, mounted in the holding frame for the cages.
	Step 6. We equip the roofs for each of the tiers from plywood, reinforced with felt or thick linoleum.

To make it possible to care for caged animals, make the back wall or roof hinged.

Video - Cage for rabbits, self-building

Cell according to the Mikhailov method

Today there are many popular methods of breeding eared animals. One of the most effective is Mikhailov’s mini-farm. The features of the mini-farm are as follows. It allows you to obtain a large number of healthy offspring and raise them into productive, mature individuals with minimal attention from the farmer.

The design features of Mikhailov’s mini-farm make it possible to achieve the following positive effects.

Cell cleansing occurs without human intervention. And we are talking not only about animal feces, but also about food waste containing harmful fumes. Rabbits do not inhale them and remain healthy. Due to the fact that such a high level of hygiene is maintained inside the rabbit houses, insects that carry the infection do not fly inside, since they simply have nothing to profit from.

Adding food and adding water to the feeders occurs once a week. Yes, now you are freed from the need to constantly monitor the presence of these batteries in the cage of your charges every day. The fact is that the feeders constantly fill themselves as they eat food from the feeders. Another plus is that in winter the water in the drinking bowls is automatically heated.

Areas for pregnant and newborn rabbits with their offspring are also heated in cold weather, which allows animals to crossbreed all year round and ensure the health of newborns.

The internal structure of the cell is as close as possible to natural conditions, which provokes the activation of instincts in animals. Thus, the queen cell reminds an animal of a hole, since it is located below the main level of the cell, and the entrance to it actually imitates a rabbit hole. The ceiling in the nesting compartment is slanted, as if this really is not a cage, but a long-eared dugout.

Open areas of the wall alternate with closed ones so that rabbits can get privacy and take a break from attention from humans or other animals.

Mikhailov's cage is also equipped with folding doors, which allow you to pick up a baby rabbit unnoticed by the rabbits or, on the contrary, add them. This is necessary when a litter is too small or too large for one individual. If there are too many cubs, the mother may kill or eat several alive. In this case, it is necessary to remove the baby and transfer it to the queen who gave birth to the small offspring.

The part of the cage that is installed to the north is insulated. The south side, on the contrary, is equipped with ventilation so that fresh air enters the houses. The roof is equipped with a pipe through which gases from animal excrement are emitted. Feeders and drinking bowls are sealed to prevent waste from getting into them.

Design Review

The area of ​​each cell is 1.4 m2. Up to 25 heads fit inside. The main element of the structure is a shed - a barn consisting of several tiers of rabbit cages in one or two tiers. Such a shad can contain 70 houses. If we take this number as a basis, then queens will live in 35 of them, and adult males and young rabbits will live in the rest.

It is customary to make about two rows of cells, together occupying 8.5 m2. These cells have only one roof.

Implemented Mikhailov cage

The shelf life of Mikhailov's mini-farm is about 20 years. Then it will have to be renewed or completely replaced with a new design.

Necessary materials

We warn you that if you do not have sufficient experience in construction, it is easier to purchase a Mikhailov cage. But if you are confident that you can handle it, stock up on the following materials:

• sheets of plywood;
• paint;
• nails;
• roofing iron;
• wooden beam;
• boards;
• roofing felt;
• Fiberboard soft and hard;
• picket fence

Assembling the stand

Assemble the stand by carefully examining its image in the photo. The horizontal section of the stand will contain a support part for a homemade transformer compartment, as well as shelves for tools and a bench. A rectangular manhole is also installed here, leading from a sealed tank to a bunker for collecting excrement, which flows into it along the shaft walls. The shaft is covered with fiberboard and roofing felt, resistant to frost and moisture.

Walking area and nests

Two pairs of posts are mounted on the stand, the cross-section of which should not exceed 10 centimeters. The tier below will rest on them, consisting of several compartments in which rabbits are caught for inspection or are deposited.

The walking area is equipped with a drinking bowl and feeding trough. In its lower part there is a hole measuring 20 by 20 centimeters, which goes into the shaft. The floor is laid with a picket fence laid on slats, which are covered with strips of metal to protect against rodents. The flooring is made at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nesting compartment is equipped with a hinged door that folds open to create a free area for interacting with the rabbits. The location of the bottom of the queen cell goes down relative to the level of the main floor by 9 centimeters. The outside walls of the house for mothers and babies are insulated with any available materials. The entrance to the compartment is also insulated. To arbitrarily overlap it, install a view.

Drinkers and feeders

The drinking bowl is represented by an automatic structure. The water trough itself can be anything, be it a plastic bowl or a wooden one. This bowl contains outlets from several 5-liter canisters. Centimeter holes are drilled in each lid of the canister so that the water drains down gradually and only when the rabbit has drunk enough so that the trough does not overfill.

What size the area of ​​the drinking compartment will be directly depends on the capacity and size of the canister itself, as well as the trough. The door to the compartment is made of a sheet of plywood and metal. One edge of the watering trough must be hidden from rabbits in order to install a small electric boiler there, which automatically starts working when the air temperature drops below +8°C.

A feeder is installed next to the drinking bowl, into which mixed feed in granules is poured. It is installed in a small gap between the parts of the flooring, in which the disposal device is located. It contains waste - crumbs and flour, as well as pellets trampled by rabbits. And from there they roll into the recycling bin.

The feed bowl for roughage is located at the top and bottom of the farm. From the outside of the cage, a tank is suspended from it, in which hay and vegetables are placed.

Installation of the upper tier

The upper tier can serve as a mother and jigging level. In the first case, it is made at an angle, in the same way as described above. In the second, they are divided into two sections of different sizes, into which small rabbits will then be placed.

The length of the upper tier is 25 centimeters longer than the lower one. A drinker and a feeder are also installed in each section according to the methods described above.

Roof

The roof is made sloping, and a pipe is installed on top of it to ventilate the premises. This pipe is necessary to remove from the cell accumulations of harmful fumes that are released during the life of eared animals.

Bottom part

At the bottom of the cage there is a box into which rabbit droppings are poured. This allows animal excrement to be used for gardening purposes and eliminates the need for the farmer to constantly clean the cages of feces.

The Mikhailov cage is an effective option for rabbit breeding business. This design requires minimal labor and time from the farmer. So, it takes about half an hour a week to care for the animals - to fill the feeders, drinkers and clean the trays. Long-eared animals kept in such a farm gain in three months of their life such weight that rabbits in normal care can only gain in 6-8 months.

Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina

Another famous farm concept for efficient rabbit breeding. Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin studied the life of rabbits in natural conditions from an early age and, in the prime of his career, developed this amazing structure that increases the efficiency of raising rabbits by activating their natural instincts.

The Zolotuha cage farm has three tiers and is quite simply made. Let's start looking at the instructions for making it.

To build a cell, we need:

• wooden beams;
• boards;
• metal grid;
• sheet iron;
• high-quality polycarbonate;
• slate.

Construction instructions

So, first of all, let’s determine the dimensions of the future cell:

• the width of the rabbit's home is 2 meters;
• height of the structure – 1.5;
• the depth of the structure is no more than 80 centimeters;
• rear floor slope - 5 centimeters;
• the mesh at the back wall occupies 20 centimeters;
• the doors are made in the shape of a square with 40 centimeters in length on one side.

Let's start building.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Cell scaffolds are assembled using a method already familiar to you. Each of them is divided into two equal halves, between which there is a small distance to accommodate the hay barn.
	Step 2. This time, for the floor, not mesh is used, but durable slate. When laying and attaching slate sheets to the frame, calculate that you need to retreat 20 centimeters from the back wall. This space is covered with a welded mesh, through which the feces of the long-eared animals will be discharged.
	Step 3. Now let's start making the walls. The back walls are made of carbonate sheets at a certain angle. The upper part of each wall is mounted to the end of the slate floor of the next highest tier. At the very top tier it is straight. Thanks to this design, rabbit droppings roll along the walls of each of the tiers and eventually fall into the tray.
	Step 4. We make a door for the queen cells and feed compartments. In the first case, we prepare it from wood and insulate it to create the necessary conditions for the rabbits. In the second, we make it from mesh.
	Step 5. Nests for summer maintenance are also made with mesh walls. They are separated from the remaining space by a board partition, which can then be removed to create a spacious cage for young animals. Winter queen cells are wooden, with closed walls. The entrance to it is also wooden, with a closing hole, the lower part of which is in contact with the floor. Hay is spread on the floor.
	Step 6. We make feeders. These devices are a tray that occupies most of the wall of the cage located in front. The feeder is inserted into the cage only one third, its bottom is made at an angle. This is necessary so that the feeder can be filled from the outside without opening the cage. A drinking bowl is also installed inside.

Zolotukhin cells are famous and have been successful for many decades. Their simple production makes them popular, and their rabbit-breeding effect is amazing.

Cages for dwarf rabbits: step-by-step instructions

Not only farmers, but also those who have chosen this cute animal as their pet can make a cage for a rabbit. Of course, it is easier to buy such a structure, but it costs a lot of money, which can instead be spent on buying vitamins and food for the eared ones.

Making a house for a rabbit with your own hands will take very little time and will not require serious labor costs.

Step 1. Assemble the frame for the cage according to the mechanism described above. This time the frame parameters will be as follows:

• length – 1 meter;
• the height of the bars for the rear wall is 55 centimeters;
• the height of the bars for the side walls is 70 centimeters;
• frame width – 70 centimeters.

Step 2. Assemble the frame so that there is a distance of 15 centimeters between the lower end of the back wall and the future floor.

Step 3. Nail wide wooden slats to the bottom of the cage or install a welded mesh made of a metal profile. This support is needed to give rigidity to the future mesh floor. When the slats or profile are installed, install fine mesh on top.

Step 4. Make walls for the cage. The back one can be made of plywood or boards, and the rest can be made of metal mesh with medium-sized cells. Make one of the walls also plywood or wood and cut a hole in it for the door.

Step 5. Make the door from a wooden frame and metal mesh and place it on the hinges to the hole.

Let's sum it up

Now you know many of the most popular ways to build rabbit cages. The choice of the option that suits you will be based on the following nuances:

• starting budget;
• rabbit breeding experience;
• region of residence;
• size of livestock, etc.

The main requirement is high quality design

For example, cages using the Mikhailov mini-farm method will help to minimize labor costs and loss of time for caring for animals, however, it is very difficult to place this serious structure inside a barn, which makes the use of the structure in regions with long cold winters almost impossible. In addition, the equipment of such a cage requires money and construction experience. Beginning rabbit breeders will not benefit from spending so much money, especially if they are not sure that they will want to keep rabbits for many years.

Zolotukhin's cages do not require large financial expenditures, but they imply that the number of rabbits contained in them will not be small. Therefore, this option is not entirely rational for farmers starting out in the rabbit business.

For rabbits to grow and reproduce quickly, it is necessary to provide them with comfortable conditions. It is important to know how to properly build and equip a house for maintenance.

Having a sufficient amount of necessary information and minimal experience in construction, it is not difficult to build a rabbitry with your own hands.

How to choose a place

When choosing a site for the construction of a rabbitry, the following factors are taken into account:

1. Distance from residential and commercial buildings by 15 m or more.
2. Flat surface. It is preferable to choose a hill with a slight slope or a flat surface. The soil should be dense enough to quickly absorb water.
3. Availability of protection from drafts and winds (trees, bushes, fences), otherwise consider installing an additional barrier.
4. No noise.

When choosing a place for a rabbitry in a pit, the following is important:

• groundwater flow level: it should be below 1.5 m from the surface;
• no accumulation of rain and flood waters;
• the presence of shade, barriers to sunlight;
• soil quality: it is advisable to choose clay soils in which rabbits cannot dig long holes; sandy or rocky soils are absolutely not suitable;
• Smooth surface.

Common designs of rabbit hutches and their features

Most breeders prefer closed structures equipped with:

• ventilation;
• heating;
• artificial light.

Sections for separate living of animals are installed in rows in the room. Each section is equipped with facilities for food and water.

Depending on the number of animals, rabbitries are divided into types:

• single;
• from 2 sections;
• single-tier;
• multi-tiered.

Some breeders set up a walking area near the exit from the house, limiting it on all sides with a high mesh fence.

Multi-tiered mini-farms

Mini-farms are a single structure consisting of several sections located in several rows above each other. They can be placed directly outdoors or inside an outbuilding.

, since they allow you to grow the largest number of individuals in a minimal area. Mini-farms are also suitable for northern regions, but for the winter they are moved inside the building.

Features that are taken into account when building a mini-farm:

• the bottom row must be raised 1 m above the ground (installed on legs): this allows you to retain heat;
• ventilation of the 2 upper tiers occurs naturally;
• on the lower tier, where there is less air movement, artificial supply and exhaust ventilation is required.

Organization of a rabbitry in a pit – the most cost-effective option, the main thing is to choose the right place.

Main stages of construction:

1. Digging a hole of the required size. For example, a hole of 2x2 m will be required. Its depth should not be less than 1.5 m, otherwise the rabbits will be able to dig a hole to the surface of the ground and escape.
2. Ventilation. A pipe with a diameter of about 15 cm is installed through the roof.
3. Organization of the floor. The bottom is covered with sand, then a mesh or slats are laid. The top layer is drainage (for example, dry straw), which must be changed as it becomes dirty.
4. Protection of walls from destruction. 3 walls are lined with bricks or covered with durable material, such as slate. The 4th wall remains partially open so that the rabbits have the opportunity to make a hole in it.
5. Pit lighting. They conduct electricity or move the roof back to allow light to enter.

Sometimes rabbits do not dig a hole (loss of instinct after a year of living in other conditions), in which case the owner himself must start digging it with a shovel. The hole is dug at a height of 15-20 centimeters from the floor; its width should be enough to accommodate 2-3 rabbits.

All-season option with insulated compartments

Comfortable conditions in winter are ensured by additional insulation of the compartments. The most affordable insulation is polystyrene foam; this material crumbles easily. The foam is laid on the outside of the back and side walls so that rabbits cannot reach it and gut it.

In the pit, the walls are insulated with straw, which is placed between the slate and the soil.

Basic principles to follow when setting up a rabbitry

Housing for rabbits must meet the following requirements:

1. Suitable temperature conditions. In winter, the temperature should not fall below 0 0C. At +14…+16 0C animals actively develop and reproduce. The minimum temperature in the queen cell is +10 0C.
2. Moderate lighting for 16-18 hours. Lack of light when rabbits are kept indoors leads to a slowdown in reproductive functions, development and weight gain, and a decrease in the animal’s immunity. With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, pets develop hypothermia, mucous membranes and eyes become inflamed. When kept outdoors, the rabbitry is placed in the shade or a special canopy from the sun is arranged over it.
3. Air ventilation. A special air inflow and outflow system is necessary when closed or on the lower tier of the mini-farm.
4. Strength. The structure must be strong, this must be taken into account during construction.
5. Presence of nests. In the queen cell it is necessary to make a container for nesting or a separate nest with an exit.

In cages, the rear and outer walls on the sides are made of opaque material. Intersectional partitions, front walls and doors are installed from mesh. A metal or wooden mesh is laid on the floor, and space is left for a tray to collect feces and leftover feed.

On the outside, a drinking bowl and a feeder are attached to each section.

Size selection

What to consider when calculating the size of your rabbitry:

1. and her living with the rabbits until they are 20 days old. A separate nest with dimensions of 40x40x30 cm must be made in it.
2. A young animal requires a minimum of about 0.1-0.2 m2 of space, comfortable living - 0.5 m2.
3. The living compartment for an active male should not be less than 1 m2.

Minimum dimensions of a standard cage of 2 sections:

• length – 1.4 m;
• width and height – 0.5 m each.

The values ​​given are for common rabbit breeds. Larger specimens require larger sections.

Tools and materials

When making a rabbitry, a standard set of tools is used:

• drill;
• hacksaw for metal or wood (depending on building materials);
• drill;
• welding machine, if the frame is supposed to be assembled from metal corners.

Materials for construction:

• wooden blocks or metal corners - for constructing a frame;
• stainless steel mesh or wooden slats for the floor;
• thick boards - for side and rear walls;
• fine mesh – for intersection partitions, front walls and doors.
• roofing felt or slate, boards - for roofing;
• corners, fasteners - for fastening units.

Example drawings of a rabbitry with dimensions

The space between the sections is called a hay barn; green fodder is placed there.

Original ideas for implementing a rabbitry

Experienced rabbit breeder Zolotukhin offers a number of interesting ideas:

1. Combined floor. Consists of 2 parts: the front is a slightly inclined surface made of flat slate, the back is a mesh surface. As a result, waste products will slide along the slate onto the grate and fall through it into a special tray. This solution greatly simplifies the process of cleaning the floor and increases living comfort.
2. Rotating feeders. Advantages - the ability to turn in the right direction.
3. Automatic water and feed supply.

Insulation

In regions with cold winters, it is necessary to provide additional heating for the rabbitry.

There are several options:

1. At the bottom of the compartment, a “pocket” is made of plywood, into which an electric heating pad is installed. Periodic activation of the heating pad at minimum mode is ensured by a transformer.
2. Heating and simultaneous lighting are provided by infrared lamps.
3. 1.5 kW heat guns are useful; in severe frosts it is enough to turn them on at night.
4. You can install radiators, to which heat is supplied from a residential building.

Feeders and drinkers

Rabbits are active, so feeders and drinkers should be placed on the outside of the cages and should be closed.

The design of feeders may vary. For dry food, options made from wood materials are suitable, but stainless steel feeders are also suitable.

Experienced rabbit breeders prefer bunker-type feeders, the contents of which are enough for the animal for a day.

You can make a convenient drinking bowl yourself.

Assembly order:

1. Make a through hole (diameter 2-3 millimeters) with an awl or nail in the neck of a 0.5 liter plastic bottle.
2. Pour water into the bottle and screw on the cap.
3. Take an oblong container (a can of sprat or yogurt), place the bottle in it with the neck down.
4. Secure the structure to the front wall using pliers and wire.

A wide selection of high-quality drinkers is offered for sale, they come in 2 types : nipple and cup.

To prevent poisoning and disease in rabbits, the water in drinking bowls should always be clean. Feeders should also be washed regularly.

Nuances in making a rabbitry

Important tips when organizing a rabbitry:

1. When building a frame, you should not skimp on screws and corners; fasteners ensure the stability of the structure.
2. Plywood and OSB are not suitable for rabbitry walls; animals quickly chew through such materials. Otherwise, they should be covered with metal sheets.
3. The inner surface of the rabbitry must be safe: nails, sharp objects and cutting edges must not protrude, as animals can be injured by them.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

How to make a rabbit hutch:

No.	Step	Photo
1	Assemble the floor. Assembly order: frame made of wooden blocks; fastening the flooring from a metal grid or wooden slats. There should be a metal tray under the floor that can be removed and cleaned of urine, droppings, and food residues.
2	To obtain the back and side walls, sheath them with thick wood or metal sheets. To observe animals, lattice windows can be inserted into the side walls.
3	Organize sections. Install and secure internal partitions
4	Make a feeder from stainless steel and wood
5	Install a front wall made of wooden slats or metal mesh, equip a drinking bowl and feeder
6	Make a door measuring 25x40 cm in the form of a wooden frame, inside of which a mesh is stretched. Secure the door on 2 hinges, close it with a latch
7	Erect a sloping roof (for water drainage) with a canopy about 25 cm wide

Conclusion

Having decided to independently build a house for rabbits, you must first find out what conditions these animals require for rapid development and reproduction.

In unfavorable conditions, growth slows down, individuals stop reproducing and become weak.

Rabbits are unpretentious animals, so you can make a room for them to live on your own. A wooden beam is used for the frame, the walls are covered with plywood or boards, wood or metal mesh is suitable for the floor.

At the beginning of the article, we will provide a detailed step-by-step production of a cage with feeders and drinkers, and then we will talk about the advantages of making cages for rabbits ourselves, their types and some other benefits.

This is the kind of cage we will make for you:

• A base is taken, its dimensions are 1 by 2 meters.

• Bars each 50 cm long are installed inside for compartments in cages.

• Next, the mesh is installed: 12.5 mm by 50 mm, wire thickness 2 mm.

• The sharp edges of the mesh must be hammered in with a hammer, as rabbits can tear their paws on them.

• Stands with a height of 55 cm are installed on top of the structure. At the rate of 20 cm for the hay barn and 25 cm for the internal height of the cage. There should be 4 of them in total, attached to the corners.

• 35 cm is marked on the stand, and the bars are attached directly under this line. It is best to take 2 bars 1 m long and two 2 m long. But you can also fasten several smaller ones.

• Next, the bars are installed in the place shown in the picture, each 50 cm, on all sides of the future cells.

• This is what we get so far after the work done.

• Next, partitions are made in the form of frames, for which 3 by 3 cm slats are used, which are covered with a mesh with cells of 25 mm by 25 mm. Wire thickness 0.8 mm.

• A large block is attached to the side of the frames, into which you can screw in several screws and hang the feeder.

• Next, a 50 by 50 mm mesh is installed on top of the entire structure, the wire thickness is 1.5 mm.

• The back and side walls of the cage are lined with boards. You need to leave 2 cm at the bottom of the back wall so that the rabbit waste can be easily pushed and thrown away when cleaning.

• This is what the cage looks like from the front at this stage.

• Next, the cage doors are made, leaving a 5 mm gap in the place where the door opens so that nothing gets caught anywhere. The slats are twisted using corners. A mesh, 25 mm by 25 mm, wire thickness 0.8 mm, is screwed onto the inside of the door.

• 40mm hinges and handles are used for doors.

• Holes for drinking water are drilled in the cage. The pipe is being installed. The height to the drinking bowl in the cages is about 25 cm.

• Galvanized bars are installed on top of the cages at a slight angle to protect the rabbits from bad weather. With this design, all the water will drain to the floor and not linger on the roof of the cages.

• If you are making two-tier cages, then it is enough to install galvanization on the second tier. This is what plums look like.

Benefits of DIY

Criterias of choice:

• the owner knows better the features of the premises and the breed of animals, which are taken into account in the design;
• costs and production costs are optimized;
• The quality and speed of production are controlled, there is no dependence on the manufacturer.

Choosing a location for the cage

Rabbit cages are placed outdoors and in outbuildings, depending on the ambient temperature; combined placement is possible.

Additionally, a number of conditions are met:

• sections are installed in a dry place, away from bodies of water;
• exclude direct sunlight, diffused light is preferable;
• arrange ventilation, but without drafts;
• in case of internal location - equipped with lamps and heaters;
• take into account the possibility of winter insulation.

Types of cages for rabbits

Based on the conditions of detention and the planned number of livestock, a distinction is made between outdoor, indoor and combined premises.

Street cages

Enclosures are placed outdoors when large numbers of animals are housed. Durable materials are used for construction, raising structures to a height of 80-100 cm above the ground, facilitating maintenance and protecting them from attacks by rats, foxes, and ferrets. For year-round outdoor placement, part of the section is insulated, and an inclined canopy or canopy is built to protect from the sun and precipitation.

Internal cells

Structures standing indoors can be made of galvanized metal mesh with a fine mesh on a frame made of slats, providing for the possibility of maintenance and methods for removing waste products.

Cages for combined placement

They imply a mobile option that allows transfer from the street to a shelter, depending on the season.

During construction, materials without cutting edges or chips are used; the best choice is wood. The walls are lined with boards or plywood, since rabbits tend to chew on cages. Safe antibacterial compounds are used to treat interior finishing. The top is covered with non-metallic, waterproof materials; plastic, slate sheets, and roofing felt are suitable.

Iron roofs heat up in the sun, so it is not used.

Classification of structures

Based on the area allocated for the rabbitry, cages are divided into single-tier and multi-tier. When drawing up a scheme, the chosen method of maintenance is taken into account, for example, a mini-farm, a Zolotukhin cage. Standard indicators are laid down at the design stage when calculating the drawing, so 0.5-0.7 sq.m is allocated for one female rabbit, 0.17 sq.m for a male, and 0.12 sq.m for young animals.

Single-tier

The simplest design to implement. The optimal size for adult rabbits is 150x70x70 cm, the front wall is 10-15 cm higher than the back wall. Taking into account the difference in height, the roof turns out to be sloping. When changing parameters, the length is reduced, leaving the height and width unchanged. The internal space is divided into compartments connected by manholes.

To maintain hygiene, the sections have a mesh floor, which allows waste to fall into a tray placed below. Feeders and water supply devices are kept clean; this is achieved by hanging or retractable mounting of equipment. When housing, females and males are housed separately, since mixing of sexes leads to uncontrolled reproduction and competition. There are rooms for adult and young rabbits. Enclosures are set up individually for different species.

Two-story

A two-tier cage is used for indoor and outdoor placement; at each level the number of compartments is different. The tiered design is considered the best for keeping a large number of rabbits by saving space, simplifying care and monitoring of animals.

The method of constructing a two-story cage does not have significant differences, the parameters are 2-2.5 m in height and 1.5 m in width.

With all the variety of characteristics, in order to build a durable, comfortable home, they follow the general instructions, which are adjusted based on the breeding goals.

Other types of structures

Among rabbit breeders, enclosures made using the original author’s method are popular. These solutions include:

1. Zolotukhin cell. It's a little more complicated to make than usual, if you follow the construction manual step by step. The difference lies in the absence of a pallet, the sloping floor is made of slate or waterproof plywood, the floor grid 15-20 cm wide is present only on one side. Waste is removed due to the stepped position of the compartments. It is better to start building with simple options and move on to more complex ones.

1. Rabbit cage designed by Mikhailov. Helps to produce numerous healthy offspring without labor-intensive care. The basis of the shed structure is a barn containing a large number of sections arranged in tiers. Half of them are occupied by females, the rest are inhabited by males and young animals. Inside, a natural environment is imitated, which promotes reproduction. Excrement collection is automated.
2. Cage with an aviary for walking. Includes two compartments and an attached walking area. The enclosure is made of a frame covered with mesh and located on the illuminated side. The animals have the opportunity to move in the fresh air, which has a positive effect on their well-being and appearance.
3. Family cage. Used for breeding purebred rabbits, calibrating them according to the necessary characteristics. A male is placed in the center of a three-section room with two females on the sides. The compartments are connected by manholes, which are opened one by one.
4. Cage for breeding. It consists of two combined enclosures and a mobile queen cell for keeping pregnant rabbits.
5. Cage for young animals. Designed for rabbits older than three months. Sections are built in one tier for the expected number of animals, taking into account the specifics of organizing group feeding. Outdoor enclosures are insulated with hay and heat insulation.
6. Cage for adult rabbits. Males of reproductive age are provided with individual quarters, since same-sex animals do not get along well together, causing fights.
7. Cage for a giant rabbit. Representatives of the breed weigh from 5.5 to 7.5 kg with a length of 55-65 cm or more. They require rooms with increased dimensions of 120x80x60 cm, reinforced with sheet metal.
8. Cage for Californian rabbits. The size of an individual of this species is 45-50 cm, weight is about 5 kg. The compartments are built in one or several tiers, with 0.5 square meters allocated per animal. m. The bottom is covered with a mesh with a rod diameter of 3 mm.
9. Cage for a dwarf rabbit. The breed was bred to be kept in an apartment. For a pet that is always under lock and key, choose a housing of 40x85 cm; if the animal only spends the night in a cage, you can take a smaller enclosure with minimum dimensions of 40x70 cm. Individuals of dwarf breeds weigh up to 2 kg, decorative ones up to 5 kg, the cage is selected taking into account the size of the animal.
10. Cage Ferplast Grand Lodge. On the second level there is a place for relaxation, below there is space for games and eating. To maintain cleanliness there are two retractable trays and hinged doors. The set includes ladders, a drinking bowl, a bowl and a hay barn.
11. Rabbitax cell. Has a special air flow control system. It looks decorative, but is expensive if you make it yourself.

Be sure to read the article about, there you will also find drawings of different options.

Features of winter cells

In an insulated room, rabbits can withstand temperatures down to -20 °C. Thermal insulation is created using modern materials.

To save money, you can make do with improvised means, such as pine needles, thin twigs, moss, and foliage.

A heat insulator 3 cm thick is laid between the walls. Cold affects the fertility of animals, to prevent a decrease in the ability to reproduce, they organize additional lighting and install heating elements to the rear wall. An artificial increase in daylight hours has a beneficial effect on the activity and reproductive qualities of animals. During the cold period, rabbits are given high-calorie food, increasing the content of concentrates and roughage.

Cages for rabbits

The female rabbits are kept in a separate spacious enclosure, consisting of the main and uterine compartments. It can contain up to four individuals; at first, females are housed together with their offspring. The queen cell looks like a closed compartment with an inlet and an additional door on the side for cleaning; the inside is lined with dried hay or shavings. In winter, they are heated with an electric heating pad, a lamp or a heating cable laid under a removable floor panel. The uterine sections are made portable and installed in different cells.

One of the popular breeds for breeding, the chinchilla, has become widespread due to its undemanding conditions of keeping and the profitability of cultivation. Both beginners and experienced rabbit breeders are involved in breeding animals of this species.

Arrangement of the cage

To provide water and food, the rabbit's home is equipped with additional accessories that are easy to make yourself or buy in a store.

The drinker is selected according to criteria such as material, volume, location, type. The following types of drinkers are distinguished:

• automatic - used to provide drinking water to a large number of animals, water flows as it decreases;
• nipple - look like an inverted bottle with water flowing through a tube;
• vacuum - consist of a plastic bottle placed in a bowl;
• throttle - work like a regular washbasin;
• hanging - made from a bottle with a cutout along the entire length, not reaching the bottom and lid by 5 cm;

It is important to consider that in metal drinkers the water will become cloudy, and rabbits will gnaw through thin plastic.

To organize animal feeding, use:

1. A hay box is installed between adjacent enclosures, with fresh grass and hay. The animals pull food out through the bars.
2. Feeder for mixed feed, food is filled automatically.
3. The compartment for fruits, vegetables, and tops gets dirty easily and requires constant cleaning.
4. Hopper containers distribute food in portions. Used for grain and granular feeds. The feeding is automated; one or more feeders are attached to the section, which you can make yourself from a canister, tin, or plywood.

It is desirable that the bottom of the cage or tray be monolithic with high walls to protect against splashing urine and scattering of filler. The slatted floor is covered with plywood and covered with straw, and a cardboard fence is installed. It will have to be updated regularly, but it is a harmless material for your pet.

The enclosure is placed in a bright place with good ventilation; in the summer it is kept on the balcony, protected from sunlight and drafts. If there are cats and dogs in the house, the cage is placed outside their access area.

Designs and other DIY examples

The design is chosen based on the purpose: whether it will be a structure for young animals, for pregnant females or for adult animals.

Two-section cages are manufactured in stages:

1. Wooden beams prepared in advance are treated with an antiseptic with a minimum chlorine content.
2. The timber is cut into 4 sections of 1.5 m each; 4x55 cm and 4x70 cm.
3. Bars 55 and 70 cm long are connected to each other, a trapezoid should emerge.
4. The trapezoids are fastened together to form a frame.
5. The floor is installed, fixing the cellular material to the frame, leaving half a meter unfilled.
6. A solid, sanded board is screwed onto the remaining area, and the joint is covered with a lath.
7. The walls are covered with boards, the front wall is mesh.
8. The inside walls are lined with plywood.
9. The structure is covered with a folding roof, ensuring a tight fit.
10. Install an internal partition at the junction of the floorboard and the mesh.
11. Place the structure on prepared supports and install a pallet according to the size of the mesh part of the floor.
12. A hay barn, feeders, and drinking bowls are installed inside.

In an enclosure for three-month-old rabbits, a different food supply system is used; this is taken into account during manufacturing:

1. The frame is identical to the base of the cage into two sections for adults, but is divided into feeding and nesting compartments. The nest is 50% smaller than the food space.
2. The floor of the nesting compartment is made of plank, the aft compartment is separated by a plywood partition with a cut-out hole.
3. The floor and facade of the food compartment are mesh, and a slatted door is attached to the front.
4. A mesh feeder is installed along the entire food compartment, leaving part outside for adding new portions of food.

Having mastered the construction of a simple cage, you can move on to more complex options for housing rabbits.

The cage for the female rabbit with a nest is placed separately, providing for the possibility of moving the enclosure from the street to the room. Manufacturing includes the following steps:

1. They make a frame, the back and side walls are made of plywood. The space is divided into two compartments - the main and uterine.
2. The door of the main compartment is made of mesh, the entrance to the queen cell is made of plywood.
3. The section for rabbits is insulated by placing thermal insulation materials in the double perimeter walls.
4. The roof is covered with materials that protect against leakage.

To make a rabbitry with your own hands, you do not need any special skills or special knowledge. It is enough to be able to handle common construction tools. However, the matter must be approached responsibly. Rabbits are very sensitive to living conditions, including the quality of housing. If the cages are damp, cramped or stuffy, then you shouldn’t even dream of a prosperous livestock. We will tell you in detail how to properly build a room for animals and from what materials.

Selection of location and construction requirements

Usually, a rabbitry is understood as a special rectangular building or a one-story barn, where there are cages for animals in several tiers. If the farmer lives in a warm region where there are no cold winters, two or three walls with a canopy can serve as a shelter. In areas with harsh climates, rabbit hutches are heated.

There are several rules that designs must comply with:

• be of such a height that it is convenient to serve them;
• have a size and environment that is comfortable for the living and breeding of animals;
• have a good system for removing urine and feces from the huts.

The rabbitry should be located in a quiet place, as the noise unnerves the long-eared ones. A dog enclosure, a cowshed, or a chicken coop are not the best neighborhood for rabbits. Also, direct rays of the sun should not enter the cages, but animals need a lot of light.

In windy weather, rabbit houses should not be ventilated. The distance from the cells to the ground is 0.8-1 m.

Optimal dimensions

The correct size of your rabbitry depends on how many animals you plan to keep. For a pair of rabbits you need a house divided into two sections, between which a net is placed at an angle. The height of the structure is from 50 to 70 cm, length - from 140 cm, width - from 60 cm. To save space, rabbit hutches are often made with two and three tiers (shed system). At the same time, artificial ventilation must be provided on the lower tier. On the top ones it will be quite natural.

Cages intended for housing a group of young animals up to 2 months old have different sizes. One rabbit needs at least 0.5 square meters. m of area, ideally 1 sq. m, but you can’t keep too many animals in the house. The best dimensions of such a rabbit house are: 200-300 cm in length, from 80 to 100 cm in width, 40-60 cm in height.

A queen cell for a female rabbit with newborn babies is built, taking into account that a female with offspring needs at least 0.6 square meters. m of area, not counting the nest. Dimensions of the latter: length 35-36 cm, height 30-33 cm, width from 25 cm to 28 cm.

Larger breeds and males used for breeding require more space.

Popular types of designs

To build a rabbit shed with your own hands, you need to consider possible shelter options.

If you live in the south or in the middle zone, you can build a mini-farm of several tiers to protect cages with animals. This option is not suitable for cold regions, since it does not provide heating.

The second option is suitable for any climate and any season. These are large rabbit hutches with compartments, each of which is insulated. Such structures are often built heated. To keep the rabbits warm, you can use EG-1 heating pads or similar ones to heat each compartment. They are placed and secured to the bottom and in frosty conditions they are turned on to the minimum setting.

The third type of structure for keeping rabbits is pits. They have many supporters and opponents. On the one hand, the animals are comfortable in the pits; the conditions are as close to natural as possible. But it is very difficult to control mating and catch rabbits.

Cages are not needed for such maintenance. It is enough to create a hole 1-2 m deep, concrete the walls and floor, and fill it with sand on top. Layer – 20 cm. A net is placed on the sand. Feeders and drinking bowls are located here.

What types of cells are there?

To build a rabbitry with your own hands, you need to decide on the type of cells that will be there. Their purpose varies. For example, it can be used as an enclosure for keeping animals alone, if you need to separate out some individuals.

If you decide to build a shed for rabbits, the cages can be kept there. It also happens that they are included in collapsible complex mini-farms.

Depending on their functions, cells are divided into:

• for young animals that have been removed;
• for fattening animals;
• houses with a nest for females with rabbits.

Rabbit hutches can be attached to the wall of another agricultural building. This is especially convenient if the room is heated - it will play the role of additional insulation.

A good solution is houses with a small enclosure so that the animals have both shelter and space to stretch their legs.

The best materials for the job

Before building a rabbitry with your own hands, you need to select the right materials. Remember: rabbits chew everything that surrounds them, so houses should be made from natural ingredients. Usually they make wooden buildings, upholstering places accessible to animals with metal. You cannot soak wood with antiseptic, otherwise your pets may get poisoned.

So, to build a rabbitry with your own hands, you will need:

• slats, boards and beams made of wood;
• galvanized mesh;
• sheets of tin and iron;
• hinges, nails, screws, latches;
• metal corners, pipes;
• roofing material.

To build the roof, use slate. It does not allow moisture to pass through and does not overheat in the sun. The amount of materials depends on the size of the rabbitry and is calculated based on the drawings.

Ready-made and homemade drawings

To make good housing for pets, you need the right rabbitry layout. You can find ready-made ones on the Internet, or you can draw it yourself. The second option is convenient because you can change the parameters depending on the number of animals on the farm.

There are several cell options. The first is a two-section or two-tier, suitable for two adult animals. It is rectangular in shape. All walls, except the front, are solid. Mesh doors are made at the front.

The second option when building a rabbitry is a cage with a place for a nest. They have two compartments connected by a small passage. They are different sizes. The smaller one is used for the nest. Group houses are needed for young animals aged 3 to 6 months. They don't have compartments.

Before we build a rabbitry, we make a drawing. Having decided on the size of the house, draw a rectangle - top view. If necessary, mark the compartments.

We draw where the doors, feeders and other furnishings will be located. Then we draw a side view of the structure. The cut you imagine must go through the section that is the most difficult technologically. For example, through a nest.

It is not necessary to draw a view from below, but if there are difficulties with the legs and supports, this will not hurt. Make sure that the plan is correct - all dimensions must match.

We make wooden houses

Having ready-made drawings, building a rabbitry with your own hands is not so difficult. To begin, take two pieces of corner and connect them. This creates a foundation. Next, we make a frame for the lid of the house from two wooden rectangles. We drill holes and connect the parts with bolts and nuts. We make inserts in the corners.

We trim the corners with wooden blocks and place the frame on a stand. We make a rectangle at the base of the cage with a lathing of 5 bars. We attach it to the corner of the cross member. The frame can be created from metal pipes, then welding will be required.

Let's start covering the frame. The best option is a chain-link mesh, cells 20x20 mm, galvanized. For the front of the cages, sides and doors, a simple steel mesh will do.

From similar material we make a hay box (the space between the compartments where hay is placed for food). The size of the cells should be 50x50 mm, otherwise it will be difficult for the animals to get food. You can stretch the whole mesh or cut it and install it in parts.

A galvanized mesh is laid on the lattice bottom. The cell size can be 10x25 or 25x25 mm. To create the floor, you should use special bars, pre-planed. The distance between them is 1 cm. Place plywood on the mesh so that the rabbits do not injure their paws, but do not fasten it - the plywood must be regularly removed and dried.

To better strengthen and insulate the rabbit house, plywood, polycarbonate or boards are attached to the back wall.

Roof and doors

We continue to tell you how to make a rabbitry. Wavy slate or roofing material for the roof is attached to a sheathing made of bars. For fastening, use self-tapping screws or regular mounting strips.

The doors are secured at the bottom with hinges, and a latch or lock is placed at the top. This way the door will tilt, which is convenient. But there is no need to install the popular rotating wooden shutters on a nail. They quickly become loose and stop working.

Containers for food and water can also be made from wood yourself. Plastic dishes will not work. Any item made of plastic is harmful to rabbits, who love to chew on everything. Read more in the articles “About feeders for rabbits” and “About drinking bowls for rabbits”.

If you are making a rabbitry for the first time, use cheap or used materials. They won’t feel sorry if something doesn’t work out the first time. When you get the hang of it, build better houses for animals.

Now that you know everything about the structure of the rabbitry, all that remains is to talk about some of the nuances. Beginning livestock breeders rarely think about them, but in vain.

Firstly, when making houses by hand, people try to save on everything, especially on fasteners. However, cheap fasteners are the worst idea. The strength and durability of the entire structure depends on its quality.

Secondly, when installing screens on the doors and inside the rabbit hutches, make sure that the cut ends of the wire do not stick out. They must be bent well so that the animals cannot get hurt.

You need to place a tray under the mesh floor in the rabbitry. Then the animal waste can be easily removed without creating unsanitary conditions.

If the house has compartments, the edges of the passage between them need to be covered with metal. Otherwise, the rabbits will not fail to sharpen their teeth on it.

If the cages will remain outside in winter, they need to be insulated. Read more about this in the article “Is it possible to keep rabbits outside in winter?”

Was our article useful to you? Write your opinion in the comments.

You may also be interested

Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as result in complete losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green food, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in maintenance and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of a rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will tell you how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.

The word "rabbit" has a double meaning. This is the name given to the room where rabbit enclosures are located, as well as cages placed together and mini-farms located on the street.

Most often, rabbit farms are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where cages are located in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.

Rabbit farm - inside view

A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:

• create comfortable conditions for living and breeding of animals;
• be easy to use for a person of average height and build;
• have a well-thought-out system for removing waste from cells and their subsequent disposal.

Buildings for rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built in accordance with GOST 23838.

In practice, cages with these animals can be placed in a frame-type barn.

Common designs and their features

A standard indoor rabbitry is an enclosed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, and, less commonly, a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. Between them there are passages, the optimal width of which is 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated for technical rooms and feed storage.

Multi-tiered mini-farms

Rabbit hutch in a hole

This is one of the most controversial decisions; there are approximately equal numbers of supporters and opponents of this design.

An example of “pit” rabbit keeping

Pros of “pit” content:

• life in burrows is natural for rabbits;
• in the pits a microclimate, humidity and temperature that is normal for rabbits is naturally formed;
• animals breed all year round;
• good litter survival;
• animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
• feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.

Disadvantages of “pit” content:

• it is impossible to regulate mating;
• it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
• difficult to catch animals;
• there is a possibility that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.

According to a number of farmers, pit housing is the best option, as it is as close as possible to the natural living conditions of rabbits. It is believed that the characteristics of meat from rabbits living underground are much better. However, despite all the advantages, organizing such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. dealing with rabbits in pits in .

All-season option with insulated compartments

The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents outdoors or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, to successfully keep rabbits, you need to think about insulation. There are two options here, and to achieve the best result they must be combined. Either heat the rabbitry or insulate the compartments themselves in which the animals are kept.

The temperature in the place where they are kept should not fall below -5. The ideal range for this time of year is considered to be from +5 to +15-20 degrees. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warm conditions, rabbits reproduce well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal “breaks” in this type of business.

In the queen cell, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on maintaining the young than he will ultimately make a profit. It must be taken into account that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and insulating the nest, both mole rats and rabbits that have already grown up and have grown fur - low temperatures are all harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as decreased immunity.

Russian rabbit breeders came up with an original way to insulate compartments. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, into which an EG-1 (or other) electric heating pad is placed. Using a transformer, if necessary, the heating pad is switched to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.

Basic principles to follow when setting up a rabbitry

Regardless of the chosen design of the rabbitry and cages, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and ventilation of cells. When creating a rabbitry, they must be adhered to.

1. There is often an opinion that rabbits in nature live in burrows, and therefore they can supposedly be kept indoors without a light source. This is the wrong approach. These animals actually dig holes, but they usually spend daylight hours on the surface, where they feed. Lack of lighting inhibits reproductive function, reduces immunity, and disrupts the synthesis of vital vitamins in the rabbit’s body. As a result, animals weaken, waste away, lose their appetite and their resistance to disease decreases.

   

2. Direct sunlight is no less harmful. Their prolonged exposure leads to hypothermia. Getting on the mucous membranes and eyes, the bright sun leads to their inflammation. In other words, rabbitries should be lit, but direct sunlight should be avoided. When kept outdoors, it is necessary to make a canopy over the cages or consider other options for creating round-the-clock shading. Indoor rabbitries must be illuminated so that the daylight hours range from 16 to 18 hours, depending on the time of year.

   

3. The optimal temperature for adult rabbits is from 10 to 20 degrees. If the cage is colder, they will grow slower and gain less weight. If it is warmer, animals can get heatstroke. Therefore, you need to take care of the possibility of heating in winter and creating shade in summer. A ventilation system is necessary if the cages will be kept indoors.

   

Types and sizes of cells

From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used either autonomously, to keep one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.

There are a lot of options for rabbit cages. But they can all be divided into three conditional groups, depending on their purpose.

Queen cells

These are specially designed cages where female rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.

A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from scrap materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

Rules for building a nest:

• it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that rabbits that are too small cannot get out of the nest;
• the floor in the queen cell should only be solid;
• the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of the animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a sheet of stainless steel, and on top - a thick layer of straw;
• the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to place it on furniture hinges);
• if the queen cell will be standing outside or in a cold room in winter, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven heating method: an infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).

Two-section cage with hay for adults

This type of design is good for housing two adult animals. At positive temperatures it is permissible to display it outdoors; at sub-zero temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.

A two-section cage is a wooden box 1.4 - 2 m long, 0.5 to 0.7 m high and 0.5-0.7 m wide. The top, bottom, side and rear walls are made solid. For this purpose, it is best to use structures made of sanded, unpainted boards knocked down without cracks, but other solutions are also possible, for example, from fine mesh or tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will support the entire structure.

Drinkers and feeders are placed along the edges, so that animals cannot climb into them with their paws.

Two-section cages can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to use the rabbitry area more efficiently.

Video - DIY two-section cage

Cage with nest

This option is a little more complicated to make, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle. In this case, the cell is divided into two compartments with a hole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.

Group cells

Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be either different-sex or same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be placed in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.

How to create a blueprint for a rabbitry

Of course, you can make a drawing of an individual cage or a whole rabbitry yourself, or simply adjust any of the above options to your size. The main parameter you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in the cage.

• One young animal requires a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2. For a comfortable stay, this norm should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males that are planned to be allowed to breed need 2 times more space.
• An adult animal needs at least half a meter of free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to move fully.
• For large breed rabbits, these standards need to be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.
• The queen cell must have a separate nest. Its typical dimensions are 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

When the dimensions are determined, you can begin the drawing. You should start by drawing out the top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into sections. Then, all elements are indicated on the drawing: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are indicated everywhere. Based on the top view, a side view is drawn. The imaginary cut should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the nest of the queen cell. The sizes must match. You can draw the view from below, paying particular attention to the legs and support structure.

Nuances in making a rabbitry

If this is your first time building a cage, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.

Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.

Video - Step-by-step construction of a cage for rabbits

Tools and materials

To build a rabbitry you don’t need anything particularly rare or expensive. As for the tools, a regular construction kit is sufficient. Having a welding machine will be a plus.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

Usually, clapboard, timber or ordinary boards are used for construction. It’s just not recommended to use them; rabbits chew through the wood. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:

Let's look at what materials the parts for creating cells are made from.

• Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.
• Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but this should not be done. Plywood is less durable, it warps from moisture, delaminates and bubbles, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly chew through it.
• Front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be used if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.

• Floor. It is made of fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.
• Roof. Made from wood, roofing felt, slate. But corrugated sheeting can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.

How to choose a place

Regardless of whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a canopy, you need to start by choosing a suitable location.

Building standards adopted in the Russian Federation allow the construction of an outbuilding with an area of ​​15 square meters on a personal plot. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of ​​40 square meters. m. The residential building must be located at a distance of at least 15 m from the two above-mentioned buildings.

Additionally, you need to take care of the following:

Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Minor discrepancies are not critical.

Prices for various types of timber

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days on it.

If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. Using the tips above, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, and material for construction.

Step 2. Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wooden or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame should be solid.

Step 3. Using a carpenter's square and level, attach the shelf and upper frame to the frame;

Step 4. The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beams or cut separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, it is necessary to cut holes for the legs at the corners.

Installing the cover

Step 6. A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.

We nail the frame, which will later contain the mesh.

Shchag 7. Cover the sides of the cage with mesh or boards. The mesh is cut with metal scissors and placed on the screws with a screwdriver.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Watching a video of the manufacturing process will also help with construction.

Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals

This video shows in detail all stages of construction and provides useful tips for beginners.

As you can see from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite possible even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.

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