Weed with long roots. perennial weeds
Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are such as, for example, Ramiro peppers, whose popularity is literally global. And if most of the vegetables on the shelves of supermarkets are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their varietal affiliation, then the name of this Ramiro pepper will certainly be on the package. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth knowing about it and other gardeners. That is why this article was written.
Autumn is the busiest time. It is no longer hot, in the morning there is heavy dew. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a very special microclimate in the surface layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if not introduced to each other - get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms that look like corals.
Pepper ajvar - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce made from bell peppers with eggplant. Peppers for this recipe are baked, and for quite a long time, then they are also stewed. Onions, tomatoes, eggplants are added to ajvar. For harvesting for the winter, caviar is sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the most ripe and meaty vegetables on the market.
Despite the simple names (“sticky” or “indoor maple”) and the status of a modern substitute for indoor hibiscus, abutilons are far from the simplest plants. They grow well, bloom profusely and delight with a healthy look of greenery only in optimal conditions. On thin leaves, any deviations from comfortable lighting or temperatures and violations in care quickly appear. To reveal the beauty of abutilons in rooms, it is worth finding the perfect place for them.
Pancakes from zucchini with parmesan and mushrooms - a delicious recipe with a photo of the available products. Ordinary squash pancakes can easily be turned into a boring dish by adding a few savory ingredients to the dough. In the zucchini season, treat your family to vegetable pancakes with wild mushrooms, it is not only very tasty, but also satisfying. Zucchini is a versatile vegetable, it is suitable for stuffing, for preparations, for second courses, and even for sweets there are delicious recipes - compotes and jams are made from zucchini.
The idea of growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is at first scary, until you feel the naturalness of the process: in nature, everything happens that way. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created for centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.
What to do instead of a lawn? So that all this beauty does not turn yellow, does not hurt and at the same time looks like a lawn ... I hope that the smart and quick-witted reader is already smiling. After all, the answer suggests itself - if nothing is done, nothing will happen. Of course, there are several solutions that can be used, and with their help, reduce the area of the lawn, and therefore reduce the laboriousness of caring for it. I propose to consider alternative options and discuss their pros and cons.
Tomato sauce with onion and sweet pepper - thick, fragrant, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and turns out thick because this recipe is with pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened under the sun in the beds. From bright, red tomatoes you get the same bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made spaghetti dressing, and you can also just spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.
This year I often saw a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the tops of the shoots are “burning”. This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron ... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And not always lightening the foliage means a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack in chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell in the article.
Korean-style vegetables for the winter - a delicious Korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy, because it is prepared with seasoning for Korean carrots. Be sure to prepare several jars for the winter, in the cold winter this healthy and fragrant snack will come in handy. For the recipe, you can use overripe cucumbers, it is better to harvest vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in the open field under the sun.
Autumn for me is dahlias. Mine begin to bloom already in June, and all summer the neighbors look over the fence to me, reminding me that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by autumn. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. So, it's time to start preparing plants for a long cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets of autumn care for perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.
To date, the efforts of breeders have bred, according to various sources, from seven to ten thousand (!) varieties of cultivated apple trees. But with their huge variety in private gardens, as a rule, only a couple of popular and beloved varieties grow. Apple trees are large trees with a spreading crown, and you cannot grow many of them in one area. But what if you try to grow columnar varieties of this crop? In this article I will talk about such varieties of apple trees.
Pinjur - Balkan eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. A distinctive feature of the dish is that eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a brazier or in a saucepan with a thick bottom, adding the rest of the vegetables indicated in the recipe. The caviar is very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best of all known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.
Yasnotka stalky
SEM. LAMINATE (LABIOLOVE)
Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
Wintering annual
Cotyledons 4...7 long, 3...6 mm wide, broadly elliptical or rounded, slightly notched, heart-shaped. The first pair of leaves is 6...12 long, 5...12 mm wide, rounded heart-shaped, with three blunt teeth on each side, covered with hairs. Epicotyl is tetrahedral, glabrous. The hypocotyl is light green.
Rod root. The stem is straight, branched, pubescent, height 5 ... 30 cm. Leaves are round-ovate, crenate-toothed, the lower ones are almost reniform, on petioles, the upper ones are stalked. Flowers in whorls above upper leaves. Corolla pink. The fruit is a triangular-obovate yellowish or light gray nutlet, length 2...2.5, width 1...1.25, thickness 0.75 mm. Weight of 1000 nuts 0.6...0.8g.
The minimum temperature for germination of nuts is +4...6°С, the optimum temperature is +22...28°С. Seedlings appear in March-May and August-September, summer-autumn shoots overwinter. Blooms in April - June. Fruits in May - July. Max. fecundity of 14,300 nuts, which, in a freshly ripened state, germinate in the soil from a depth of no more than 5 ... 6 cm, especially in the presence of nitrogen and potassium.
It grows in fields and pastures, in gardens and orchards, along roads and housing. Distribution: Almost throughout the country.
LAMINAR PURPLE
SEM. LAMINATE (LABIOLOVE)
Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
Biennial optional
Cotyledons 5...10 long, 3...8 mm wide, rounded, slightly notched at the apex, with a semicircular notch at the base, on long petioles. Seedling leaves opposite, length and width 10...18 mm, rounded-ovate-cordate, blunt-toothed, covered with short hairs, on long pubescent petioles. The epicotyl is finely pubescent. The hypocotyl is low. Seedlings with a specific smell.
Root taproot, branched. The stem is straight, tetrahedral, pubescent, height 15...40cm. Leaves heart-shaped-ovate, notched, lower on long, upper on short petioles. Flowers in close stem rings, pinkish-purple corolla. The fruit is an obovate light gray or greenish-brown nutlet with small white warts, length 2...2.5, width 1...1.5, thickness 0.75...1 mm. Weight of 1000 nuts 0.75...1g.
Seedlings appear in April - July, as well as in late summer - early autumn, summer-autumn shoots overwinter in the south. It blooms from the end of May and in the southern regions until December. Fruits in July - December. Max. fecundity of 1700 nuts, which in a freshly ripened state have low germination and form seedlings in the soil from a depth of no more than 5...6 cm.
It grows in fields, gardens and orchards, in abundance in shaded and moist places. Distribution: European part (except the Far North), Caucasus, Central Asia
JASCOLKA BONE-SHAPED, SODDY
SEM. CLOVES
rhizome perennial
Cotyledons 2...4 long, 1...2.5 mm wide, elliptical, narrowly pointed, on short petioles. The leaves of seedlings are opposite, length 3...9, width 3...5 mm, the lower ones are rounded, the subsequent ones are obovate, entire, on short petioles, covered with long hairs. The epicotyl is pubescent. Hypocotyl greenish dorsally.
Root taproot, branched. Stem ascending or procumbent, pubescent, branched, height 10...30 cm. Leaves narrowly elliptical or lanceolate, less often oblong-ovate, pointed, lower ones petiolate, upper ones sessile. Flowers in a spreading semi-umbrella, white petals, up to one third incised. The fruit is a cylindrical five-toothed box. Seeds are rounded-angular, warty-tuberculate on the surface, yellowish-brown, with darker tubercles, length 0.5 ... 0.75, width and thickness 0.5 mm. Weight of 1000 seeds 0.1g.
Shoots from seeds and shoots from root buds appear in April - June. Blossoms in May - June, and in the first year of life - in July - September. Fruits in June - July. Max. fecundity is 28,700 seeds; in a freshly ripened state, they have low germination and form seedlings at a depth of no more than 2 ... 3 cm.
Grows in fields, meadows and pastures, among bushes. Distribution: almost throughout the country (except the Far North and Central Asia).
YARUTKA FIELD
Brassicaceae (Cruciferae)
Wintering annual
Cotyledons length 5...7, width 3...5mm, elliptical. The first leaves are 8...16 long, 5...9 mm wide, elliptical or obovate, subsequent ones are oblong. The epicotyl is not developed. The hypocotyl is light green. Seedlings have an unpleasant odor.
Rod root. The stem is straight, branched, height 20...50 cm. Leaves alternate, lower oblong-obovate, notched-toothed upper oblong-lanceolate, obtusely dentate, sessile, swept. Flowers in dense racemes at the tops of stems. Petals are white. The fruit is a round-squeezed, grayish-brown, notched winged pod at the top. Seeds obovate, dark cherry or almost black, length 1.5...2.25, width 1.2...1.5, thickness 0.5...0.75 mm. Weight of 1000 seeds 1.25 ..1.75g.
The minimum temperature for seed germination is +2...4°C, the optimum temperature is +20...24, max. +34...36°С. Seedlings appear in March - May, summer and early autumn, summer-autumn overwinter. Blooms in April - June. Fruits in June - August. Max. fertility 50,000 seeds. Freshly ripened and unripe seeds germinate from a depth of no more than 4...5 cm, especially well in the presence of nitrogen, maintaining viability up to 10 years.
It grows in fields and pastures, along roads and housing. Distribution: throughout the country.
SCREENING ANCHOR
SEM. PAROLIFOLIC
annual
Cotyledons 8-12 long, 3-5 mm wide, oblong-elliptical, almost quadrangular, notched, covered with short hairs, bluish-green below. The leaves are paired, pubescent, especially below. The epicotyl is not developed. Hypocotyl yellowish brown.
Rod root. Stem recumbent, branched, hairy, length 20...60 cm. The leaves are opposite, paired, glabrous above, pubescent below, with small stipules. Flowers in leaf axils. Petals are pale yellow. The fruit is trihedral, with subulate appendages, straw-green or dark gray nutlet, length (without spines) 4...6, width and thickness 3...5 mm. Weight of 1000 nuts 3...6g.
Seedlings appear in April-June. Blooms in June - August. Fruits in August - November Max. the fecundity of one plant is 5700 nuts, which germinate only in the spring of the next year from a depth of no more than 12. . 15cm.
It grows in fields, meadows and pastures, along the banks of reservoirs, in gardens and orchards, near dwellings and roads, in abundance on sandy soils. Distribution: European part, Siberia, Central Asia.
ERUKA SEEDING, INDAU
SEM. Cabbage (Cruciferous)
Brassicaceae (Cruciferae) Annual
Cotyledons 8...15 long, 10...18 mm wide, obovate kidney-shaped, at the apex with a wide notch, on long petioles, glabrous. The first leaves are 15...26 long, 10...15 mm wide, elliptical, petiolate, subsequent lyre-pinnate, pubescent. The epicotyl is low. Hypocotyl grayish-green dorsally.
Root taproot, branched. The stem is straight, branched, rough, height 20...80 cm. The leaves are alternate, lyre-pinnately dissected, with serrated segments, the lower ones are petiolate, the upper ones are sessile. Flowers in corymbs, later in loose racemes, at the tops of the stems. Petals are yellow or white with purple veins. The fruit is a compressed-tetrahedral multi-seeded pod with a flat nose at the top, length 20...25 mm. Seeds are spherical-oval, slightly flattened, greenish-gray, with a cellular surface, length 2...3, width 1.5...2, thickness 1.25...1.5 mm. Weight of 1000 seeds 2.5...3.5g.
Shoots appear in March - May. The shoots that sometimes appear in summer and autumn do not overwinter. Blooms in May - July. Fruiting in June - August. Freshly ripened seeds germinate and germinate in the soil from a depth of no more than 8...9 cm.
Grows in fields, roadsides, gardens and orchards. Distribution: middle and southern regions of the European part, Siberia, Central Asia.
Amaranthus lividus L.
SEM. GIPPER
annual
Cotyledons 8...15 long, 2...4 mm wide, narrowly ovate, on thin petioles. Seedling leaves alternate, length 18...30, width 12...20 mm, ovate, notched at the apex, with a small spine, on long petioles. Seedlings are gray-dark purple, turn green when dried. The epicotyl is cylindrical. Hypocotyl pinkish purple.
Root taproot, branched. The stem is straight, branched, height 25...80cm. Leaves ovate-rhombic, obtuse, with a pinch in the notch, unevenly finely toothed. Flowers in glomeruli collected in spike-shaped inflorescences located in the axils of the leaves and at the top of the stem. The fruit is a lentil-shaped, obtuse shiny black seed along the edge, 1 ... 1.25 in diameter, 0.75 ... 1 mm thick. Weight of 1000 seeds 0.3...0.4g.
Shoots appear in April - May. Blooms in June - September. Fruits in July - October. Freshly ripened seeds do not germinate; they germinate only from the next spring at a depth of no more than 3-4 cm.
Grows in fields, in gardens and orchards, in wastelands, near dwellings, in parks. Distribution: middle and southern regions of the European part, the Caucasus, Central Asia.
Amaranthus retroflexus L.
SEM. CAPITAL
annual
Cotyledons length 6...10, width 1.5...2.25 mm, oblong. Leaves 10...16 long, 8...12 mm wide, rhombic-oval, almost quadrangular, often broadly ovate, grayish-green above, reddish below. Leaf petioles and veins are covered with hairs. Epicotylus finely hairy. Hypocotyl dirty crimson.
The root is taproot, deepening by 135...235 cm, extending in diameter by 75...130 cm. The stem is straight, branched, pubescent, height 20 ... 150 cm. The leaves are alternate, ovate-rhombic, ovate or oblong-ovate. Flowers in dense paniculate inflorescence. The fruit is a lenticular, shiny, slightly reticulated, black (immature reddish) seed, 1...1.25 in diameter, 0.5...0.75 mm thick. Weight of 1000 seeds is 0.3...0.4 g.
annual
Cotyledons length 6...11, width 1.5...2.5 mm, oblong. Leaves length 12...18, width 6...10mm, obovate or broadly elliptical. Petioles and epicotyl are reddish. Hypocotyl pinkish red.
Rod root. The stem is recumbent, branched, slightly pubescent in the upper part, length 20...120 cm. The leaves are alternate, obovate or spatulate. Flowers in axillary glomeruli of upper leaves and at the ends of stems. The fruit is a lenticular shiny black (unripe - light brown) seed, 1.25 ... 1.75 in diameter, 0.75 mm thick. Weight of 1000 seeds 0.5...0.6g.
The minimum temperature for seed germination is +7...8°C, the optimum temperature is +30...36°C. Shoots appear in April - August. Blooms in July - November. Fruiting from July to late autumn. Max. the fecundity of one plant is 700,000 seeds, which sprout only in the spring of the next year from a depth of no more than 6...8 cm. Less drought-resistant than white amaranth.
The minimum temperature for seed germination is +10...12°C, the optimum temperature is +28...36, max. +50...52°С. Shoots appear in April - August. Blooms in June - September. Fruits in July - October. Max. fertility 6 million seeds. Freshly ripened seeds germinate in the soil only in the spring of next year from a depth of no more than 6...8 cm.
Grows in fields and pastures, along roads and housing, in abundance on chernozem and dark chestnut soils. Distribution: south of the European part, Caucasus, Western Siberia, Far East, Central Asia.
The dream of any land owner is to permanently get rid of weeds in the garden. The war against weeds in garden beds has been going on for centuries, taking a lot of time and effort from vegetable growers. How to get rid of impudent invaders of your favorite garden, orchard and lawn? Do they need to be eliminated? What are the most effective weed control methods?
Control methods depend on many factors: the type of weed, soil characteristics, biological properties of plants. It is rare for anyone to completely get rid of harmful plants, but any summer resident is quite capable of significantly reducing their number. It will be useful for site owners to learn the most common types of weeds and how to protect them.
Fighting methods
Traditional weeding with the destruction of the root system; treatment with special chemicals (may have negative consequences for the environment); shading the places where the quinoa grows with any opaque material in order to deprive harmful plants of sunlight (mulching).
horsetail
A fairly viable "invader" of useful territories, having chosen clay and acidic soils. An obsessive plant, similar to small Christmas trees, reproduces by spores and the growth of rhizomes, actively clogs the soil, drying it out and depleting it. Horsetail is able, by its presence, to significantly reduce the yield of noble crops. A humid climate favors the rapid growth of this plant. Spring shoots of horsetail turn pinkish. The roots of this weed have the ability to penetrate deep into the soil, making weeding much more difficult.
Ways to fight
Thorough weeding, loosening; the introduction of elements into the soil that help reduce acidity (limestone, dolomite); planting plants of the cruciferous order, the neighborhood with which horsetail does not like (rapeseed, arugula); chemical treatment with special means (herbicides); regular mowing of sprouts.
Plantain
The famous healer - plantain, is a weed in the garden. Settles mainly on paths and near buildings. It seems to be a harmless representative of weed species of grass, does not like beds, as if it does not interfere, but this is only at first glance. The plantain is a lover of settling on ennobled lawns (which must be correct and), from where he has to be mercilessly driven. Many gardeners know what this perennial looks like: wide, smooth, oval leaves with several veins; fibrous root; in the middle of the bush is a long spike with seeds.
Fighting methods
Mechanical removal of plantain using special garden tools; destruction by selective herbicides; preventing compaction (trampling) of the soil and excessive moisture.
Nettle
In any garden or summer cottage you can find this, familiar from childhood, burning plant. Nettle needs no introduction, it can grow anywhere, hindering the growth of noble plantings and burning anyone who accidentally touches it. This perennial weed loves to settle in the raspberry forest, from where it is problematic to remove it. It spreads by means of a strong root system, as well as by seeds.
Ways to fight
Weeding along with the roots and mulching the soil in places where the weed grows; treatment of nettle thickets with boiling water; spraying with special chemicals.
mokrets
The plant is creeping, small in size with many internodes on low stems. It has small leaves and star-shaped flowers. Differs in high resistance to colds, is capable to shoot from early spring to late autumn, self-pollinated. During the summer season, several generations of this weed can grow. On moist soil, biting midge actively grows through stem layers that are tightly adjacent to the ground. Its viability is amazing, even having lost the root system, biting biting is able to absorb moisture for a long time through the hairs covering its stem.
Methods of dealing with this enemy of vegetable gardens
Extremely difficult due to its survivability. Preventive measures help: drainage, it is important not to overmoisten the soil; in early spring, the first shoots should be weeded out, while the stems should be dug deep into the ground or dried to prevent their re-germination. Mulching row spacing can prevent biting midges.
As an option for weed control: planting vegetables in high beds. In extreme cases, you can use herbicides, it is better to apply them at the end of the season so that useful plants do not suffer.
wheatgrass
There are many types of wheatgrass, the most common of which is creeping wheatgrass. Its root system grows in different directions, capturing more and more useful territory in fields, vegetable gardens, and garden plots. This weed grass - from the "quiet horror" series - known to all vegetable growers, loves wet, loose,. She is able to flood the entire site, if not disposed of in time.
Fighting methods
Hand weeding in the early stages of growth; deep digging of roots into the soil, wheatgrass is unable to ascend from great depths; fencing already cleared areas with sheets of iron or slate, which are dug into the ground to a depth of 20 cm, the weed will not overcome such an obstacle; the use of chemicals in dry weather.
Sagebrush
An old acquaintance of all lovers of land work: a perennial shrub with small yellow flowers, large leaves, powerful stems, short, branched roots. It has a bitter smell and unusual vitality, grows on any soil, except for swamps. Wormwood especially favors vegetable gardens rich in lime and nitrogen, propagates by seeds, and is very prolific.
Ways to fight
Cutting stalks of wormwood before flowering to prevent weed seeds from dispersing, then removing the roots, followed by digging the land.
Amaranth
Fighting methods
Deep digging of the soil in the off-season; removal of young shoots and roots of amaranth; cutting stems before seeds appear; replacement of free space with natural insecticides (marigolds, marigolds); mulching beds; herbicide treatment.
Sow thistle garden
As soon as vegetable growers lose their vigilance a little, this unpleasant, prickly plant instantly appears in the garden. The thick, straight stalk of thistle thistle can reach one and a half meters in height. Its roots are deep, brittle, if during weeding part of the root is left in the ground, sow thistle will certainly be reborn due to high regeneration. Sow thistle flowers resemble dandelions, it is able to survive in any conditions, soils, regions.
Ways to fight
Regular weeding or digging of the site with careful removal of the roots; spraying bushes with kerosene; use of herbicides against weeds.
Rosichka
Fighting methods
Mulching; manual weeding; application of pre-emergence and post-emergence herbicides.
Highlander pepper
In the people it is also called: pepper grass, bird mountaineer, frog, turnip. It is an annual weed with lanceolate leaves, small, reddish flowers, and a pungent taste. It likes to grow in moist, fertile places, in compacted soils, it is often found in vegetable gardens, on lawns. It has a very delicate stem that breaks, leaving roots underground (gentle "spotting" herbicide treatment and deep weeding help a lot). The plant is poisonous!
Ways to fight
Pulling by hand; early mulching; treatment with post-emergence herbicides, when the first shoots appear.
Dandelion
Another lawn troublemaker capable of rapid reproduction with the help of volatile seeds is the dandelion. The plant has a powerful rod-shaped root, long leaves and a bright yellow flower that, when ripe, turns into a white, fluffy ball. Owners of gardens and garden plots should be extremely careful, at the first sign of the appearance of this weed, you need to immediately eliminate it or treat the lawn with special herbicides.
Ways to fight
Removal of uninvited guests with special tools; mulching; treatment with post-emergence herbicides.
Clover
A low-growing, perennial weed with a branched rhizome and white flowers has long interfered with gardeners, spoils lawns (unless, of course, you purposefully allocated a place for it to grow - such a site looks very good), settles where it should not be. Clover breeds well, likes to grow in soils with a lack of nitrogen. If clover appeared in the garden, then it's time to fertilize the soil.
Fighting methods
Mechanical (hand pulling, frequent lawn mowing), chemical (special herbicides); mulching.
But I don’t know the name of another “infection” of the garden (see photo). But I know well that this owner of sharp curved hooks wraps a liana around everything that comes to her hand.
In the war against weeds, all means are good, you can even use a complex attack against harmful plants to get the best effect, but remember that each method of struggle has its own:
Nuances in weed control methods
Mechanical removal (depletion)
Pulling out weeds manually or with special tools, regularly cutting them at the root, destroying the stems before flowering. The method is the most laborious, because this procedure must be carried out often and very carefully. The method takes a lot of effort and time, but it has been tested for decades and is the safest for cultivated plants.
Biological method (mulching)
Darkening the soil with any material that does not transmit light. The lack of lighting inhibits the growth of plants, leads to the death of the root system of weeds. For this purpose, thoroughly dried compost, tree bark, sawdust or special mulch fiber will do. The method is not too laborious, but it will not be possible to immediately achieve results with it; it will take at least two seasons to completely destroy weeds.
Chemical method (treatment with herbicides)
The fastest way to get rid of weeds in the garden is to spray them with chemicals (like), which we purchase in the appropriate stores. In advanced cases, this is the only way to completely destroy harmful plants. When choosing this method, it is important to remember that the chemicals are highly toxic and can harm beneficial plants. It is recommended to use herbicides outside the garden or at the end of the summer season, after harvest.
Weeds dry up, deplete the earth, some of their species release toxic substances (phytoncides) into the soil, grow everywhere, there is no universal method of dealing with them. Only the integrated use of all protection methods will help save gardens and summer cottages from green "invaders". Let the opposition of gardeners against weed pests require special efforts, the result will ironically justify them, if you are not lazy and deal with weeds in time.
If you ask any gardener or gardener if weeds can be considered useful, the answer will be unambiguously negative. In fact, not everything is so simple with weeds: they are just as full-fledged representatives of the plant world as other crops, but, growing in the garden, they bring many unpleasant minutes to those who are trying to grow vegetables or berries.
Weed control cannot be called simple, since these plants quickly occupy free space on the site, and they can only be removed mechanically or with the help of herbicides, but in this case there is no guarantee that weeds will no longer appear on your site. In this article, we will consider not only the names, photos and descriptions of the most common weeds, but we will also try to determine how they can be useful.
Weeds in the garden: photos and names
From the information above, we can conclude that weeds cannot be called unambiguously harmful plants. If you remove them from the beds in time, they may well be useful. However, in order to know which plants should be destroyed without pity, and which can be potentially useful, you need to familiarize yourself with the names, photos and descriptions of these representatives of the flora.
Generally speaking, all weeds are usually divided into garden and lawn. The first group includes wheatgrass, wood lice, bindweed, purslane, amaranth, nettle, horsetail and knotweed. Lawn weeds include dandelion, bluegrass, plantain, clover, and creeping ranunculus. However, such a classification does not mean at all that representatives of the lawn group cannot be found in the garden. It is important to remember that plant seeds are spread by wind and birds, so the same nettle or dandelion can grow not only in the garden, but also in the garden.
Note: Many gardeners are interested in why weeds, in principle, appear in areas that are annually cultivated and dug up. The fact is that weeds can grow not only from particles of roots remaining in the soil, but also from seeds that can be in the soil for a long time and will germinate only under favorable conditions. In addition, low-quality organic fertilizers contribute to the spread of weeds. If you are using your own compost, be careful not to get plant seeds in it. A similar situation can occur when buying low-quality planting material, so it is recommended to purchase seeds only in specialized stores or nurseries.
It should also be borne in mind that weed seeds are quite light, and are very easily carried by strong gusts of wind or birds. Therefore, even if you have perfectly cleared the site of weeds, there will be no full guarantee that weeds will not appear on it again.
Description of weeds in the garden, photo
In order to remove weeds from the beds in time, you need to know the features of their appearance, but for a successful fight against them, you must also familiarize yourself with the characteristics of such plants. Next, we will look at the names and descriptions of the most popular garden weeds, and detailed photos will help to accurately classify weeds.
- Creeping wheatgrass
This plant is often found not only in vegetable gardens, but also in fields, in gardens or along roads. The main feature of wheatgrass is a powerful root system that quickly spreads over the ground (Figure 1). It is this feature that complicates the fight against wheatgrass: if at least a piece of the root remains in the soil, it will certainly release new shoots. Therefore, in order to cope with this weed, it is better to weed it out not by hand, but with a pitchfork, choosing even the smallest particles of roots from the soil.
Figure 1. Couch grass Another feature of the plant is its vitality: wheatgrass adapts perfectly to a wide variety of climatic and soil conditions. This herb has straight, long stems and narrow, slightly rough leaves.
It is very difficult to get rid of wheatgrass forever, because for this it is necessary to destroy not only the above-ground parts, but also the root system. To do this, it is necessary to combine mechanical weeding with the use of herbicides.
- field bindweed
Among the people, this weed is better known under the name "birch" (Figure 2). Its characteristic feature is rapid growth and rapid spread over the site. This development is explained by the fact that the bindweed has not only a very long stem (about 180 cm), but also a branched root system that goes far into the soil.
Figure 2. Field bindweed The main harm from birch comes down to the fact that with its flexible stem it entangles cultivated plants, shade them and slows down growth, and a powerful root system consumes a lot of moisture and nutrients from the soil. It is difficult to permanently get rid of a birch. As with wheatgrass, the only way to completely remove a plant from a site is to dig up the entire root system.
For all its disadvantages, bindweed is a fairly beautiful weed. It has small pointed leaves and white flowers.
- Purslane
Purslane belongs to annual plants, as it does not reproduce by roots, but only by seeds.
Figure 3. Garden purslane Outwardly, the plant looks quite original: it has a flexible stem with a slight reddish tint and small fleshy leaves (Figure 3). Despite the fact that the shoots can occupy a fairly large area, it will not be difficult to remove them, since the purslane can be easily uprooted.
- Woodlouse
This plant is easy to remove from the beds while its shoots are still young. If we allow the growth of wood lice in the area, then it will quickly fill all the free space (Figure 4).
Note: Especially often wood lice can be found on carrot crops.
The only advantage to removing wood lice is that it is completely intolerant of drought. If there is no natural precipitation, and the beds are not watered, the weed will quickly die.
Figure 4. Appearance of wood lice In addition to the weeds described above, there are other representatives of the flora that can appear in the garden, although they can most often be found in the garden (Figure 5).
These plants include:
- Bluegrass: low bushy plant, which is difficult to notice at an early stage of development. But as it grows, the bluegrass will be clearly visible on the lawn, as it forms ugly bushes on a flat grassy surface. It is easy to deal with bluegrass, as its root system is superficial. You can simply uproot it or cut off the aerial part, and the roots remaining in the ground will die.
- Dandelion: it is not only a beautiful spring flower and a valuable medicinal plant, but it is better not to allow it to grow on the beds or lawn. Unfortunately, it is not easy to completely get rid of dandelions on the site. They have a powerful and long root system that goes far into the soil. Cutting off the aerial parts will not bring the desired result, since the roots remaining in the ground sooner or later form a new young growth. The only control option is to use powerful herbicides.
- Buttercup creeping: also considered a fairly common plant. You can meet him in moist shaded areas, so most often the buttercup grows not in the beds, but in the garden. The weed has tubular stems and rather long shoots (about 1 meter). They braid cultivated plants, interfering with their development. During the flowering period, the stems of buttercups are covered with small yellow flowers. An integrated approach will help to destroy this type of weeds, which involves the use of herbicides along with mechanical weeding.
- Plantain: known to everyone as a medicinal plant that can heal wounds. However, in some cases, the presence of plantain on the site is not desirable at all. As a rule, it does not grow in the beds, but in the garden or in the yard, as it prefers dense, even trampled soil. This explains why plantain often grows through a dense layer of lawn grass or between tiles in garden paths. Fortunately, getting rid of psyllium is easy. Its root system is shallow, so the plant can be easily uprooted. But plantain should not be allowed to grow over the site, since only herbicides can cope with it in case of mass distribution.
- Clover: It is considered a valuable agricultural crop, as it is used as green fodder for animals and birds. But his presence in the beds or lawn is highly undesirable. Clover is a perennial plant, so it will not be possible to quickly get rid of it. In addition, it has long roots that go deep into the ground, so both herbicides and weeding must be used to remove such weeds. But do not rush to immediately remove the clover: its presence in the beds indicates that the soil contains insufficient nitrogen.
Figure 5. Other weeds (from left to right): meadow bluegrass, dandelion, creeping ranunculus, plantain, clover Ambrosia is considered another dangerous weed (Figure 6). Its massive growth not only slows down the growth of garden crops, but can also cause severe allergies in people. Therefore, if you notice this plant in your area, immediately remove it manually or with the help of herbicides.
Quinoa is also often found in vegetable gardens (Figure 6). It has an amazing vitality and can grow even on extremely poor soils that are not suitable for other plants. Uprooting the quinoa is easy while the plant is young. The height of adult specimens can exceed a meter and it will be very problematic to remove such a quinoa with a root, so it is better to do weeding after the first shoots of weeds appear.
Figure 6. Harmful and dangerous weeds: ragweed (left) and quinoa (right) From the descriptions of weed species, we can conclude that most of them are extremely tenacious, and it is difficult to completely get rid of them. As a rule, gardeners prefer to use a mechanical method of removing weeds, but this will only be effective if weeding was carried out at an early stage, and all plants were removed from the roots. If you didn’t succeed in weeding the beds in time, and the weeds have grown massively over the site, you will have to use post-emergence herbicides that effectively destroy weeds without affecting cultivated species.
Weeds: harm and benefit
Most gardeners have a negative attitude towards weeds. And this is not surprising, because these plants take nutrients and moisture from garden and garden crops, preventing them from fully developing.
Note: Weeds are by nature very tenacious, as they have adapted to aggressive environmental conditions and have learned to develop without human intervention.
If we talk about the dangers of weeds in general, we can distinguish the following features:
- Weeds require much more water and nutrients than other crops, so they grow much faster.
- Tall plants can shade garden crops, thus preventing photosynthesis and the full development of vegetables.
- Weeds can serve as a source of dangerous diseases, even if the weed itself does not get sick. For example, fungal spores can accumulate on them, which later cause powdery mildew.
- Growing weeds can become a habitat for dangerous pests, as scoop eggs, flies and fleas often lay on their leaves.
However, the opinion that weeds only bring harm can also be called erroneous, because these representatives of the flora are found not only in vegetable gardens, but also in areas that are not used for agricultural work. If you treat weeds correctly, you can get some benefit from them.
Most harmful, from the point of view of gardeners, plants are quite suitable for eating. With proper heat treatment, they will be not only tasty, but also extremely healthy. For example, gout can be used to make soups and salads, burdock root can be used boiled and fried, and chopped wheatgrass root can be used to make cutlets. Wild primrose is considered a valuable source of vitamin C, the concentration of which is especially high in spring. But dandelion salad or young nettle soup can be considered a real classic.
Figure 7. Compost and fertilizer from weeds In addition, it must be borne in mind that many plants that are considered undesirable for the garden are medicinal. For example, St. John's wort, dandelion, yarrow or nettle were used to treat many ailments even by our ancestors.
If we talk about the benefits of weeds in the garden, then here weeds have found a worthy use. If you fly young plants out and put them on a compost heap, they will rot and turn into an excellent organic fertilizer (Figure 7). However, it should be borne in mind that weeds for compost should be collected before they begin to bloom, since seeds that have fallen into the compost can cause a massive spread of weeds in the next season. From these harmful, at first glance, plants, you can also prepare an effective liquid fertilizer for garden crops. To do this, the greens need to be chopped, filled with three-quarters of the container and poured with water. The solution is left to ferment for a week, after which it is used as a top dressing, diluted with clean water in a ratio of 1:10.
Weeds can also be called an excellent indicator of the state of the soil on the site. For example, if horsetail began to grow rapidly in the garden, then the soil has become too acidic and lime must be added to it. The massive growth of chamomile indicates an increased density of the soil, which means that it needs to be loosened more often. If your garden has a lot of representatives of the cruciferous family, this means that the soil contains too much potassium.
How to deal with weeds: video
It is important not only to know the names of weeds and be able to identify them by their appearance. Any summer resident will definitely need information about the destruction of weeds in the garden. Since each type of weed has its own characteristics, it should also be approached in a special way.
From the video you will learn a lot of practical tips and useful recommendations for the destruction of weeds on the site.
On this page I have collected photos of malicious weeds that annoy me in the garden and in the garden. I hope these photos of weeds with names and descriptions will help someone identify particularly annoying weeds, and therefore deal with them more successfully. Some weeds are ubiquitous in the garden of one grower and never found in another. What determines such a selective prevalence of weeds? From your location, type and acidity of the soil. I took all the photos of weeds in my garden
Vicious garden weeds
Couch grass (Elymus repens, eng. Couch grass)- one of the worst garden weeds. Wheatgrass quickly spreads throughout the garden and vegetable garden due to its deep root system. Wheatgrass roots are light, thin and strong. It is on these roots that many years wheatgrass can be distinguished from other similar-looking but less harmful garden weeds such as: common barnyard (chicken or cockerel millet), bluegrass, rosichka, bent grass and others. The latter, although they are garden weeds, find their use in lawn grass mixtures. Cm. .
Common goatweed (Aegopodium podagraria, eng. Ground Elder)- a malicious garden weed that spreads thanks to a strong and deep root system. Being a weed in gardens and orchards, sleepy, however, is not devoid of natural attractiveness, especially during flowering, and is also a valuable honey plant, fodder and medicinal plant.
Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis, eng. Bindweed) and some other types of bindweed - a malicious obsessive weed. Thick branched white roots field bindweed go deep into the ground to a depth of 5 meters! To be honest, I don't think it's realistic to expect total annihilation. field bindweed if it has long been rooted in your garden. You can only tear out from time to time field bindweed and destroy the roots by digging them out of the ground as far as possible. White gramophone flowers field bindweed not devoid of attractiveness, we must give them their due.
Carob Oxalis (Oxalis corniculata, eng. creeping woodsorrel) and especially oxalis direct (Oxalis stricta), and Oxalis pes caprae - malicious garden weeds. Different types of oxalis are widespread in my garden. It is not easy to completely tear out the reddish sour carob from the ground, because. its root system is very branched. But nothing compares to oxalis straight and its roots. In the middle of summer, a large cone-shaped translucent rhizome, resembling a carrot, and many small white bulbs form in the middle of summer. Remove acid directly from wet soil with a chopper. It is necessary to carefully dig deep enough to pull the sour with rhizome and bulbs out of the ground without losing them. Each bulb that separates from the rhizome will grow into a new harmful plant next season.
Pentaglottis evergreen (Pentaglottis sempervirens, eng. Green alkanet)- a plant from the borage family, resembling borage borage, or borage. However, unlike the annual and useful in cooking and medicine, borage herb, its relative pentaglottis is the worst perennial rhizomatous weed. taproots pentaglottis go deep into the ground and, if it is not possible to completely pull the root out of the ground (and this is almost impossible), then after some time the malicious pentaglottis will grow back in the same place. The leaves of the plant are rough, and the flowers are bright blue, reminiscent of forget-me-nots, which relative pentaglottis is also.
Robert's Geranium (Geranium robertianum, Robertiella robertiana)- a weed from the genus geranium. Many of which we wrote about in a special article. However, Robert's geranium is an intrusive rhizomatous weed, which, however, is still much easier to deal with than leek, ivy or bindweed.
Wild blackberry and brambles (Rubus fruticosa spp, eng.bramble) - are widespread throughout the British Isles due to the creeping manner. In the English forests and on the country roads in August you can get a rich harvest of wild blackberries. This, of course, is wonderful, but in the garden, wild blackberries, unlike cultivated ones, are a weed. Branches of wild blackberries are very prickly. Once on the ground, long shoots take root, forming whole thorny thickets in the secluded corners of the garden. Getting rid of wild blackberries is very difficult.
Common ivy (Hedera helix) and other varieties. It's unbelievable that garden centers have ivy and someone pays money to get it. We would pay ourselves if someone would come and save us and our neighbors from the common ivy that grows all the time along the fence line. The roots of ivy are massive, and over time, ivy also forms a massive, woody trunk. Ivy has a reputation for destroying buildings and structures.
Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale, Dandelion) – from childhood, a wonderful meadow plant familiar to everyone, a healing herb and a honey plant. Dandelions delight the eye in the bosom of nature, but not in the garden, where it is difficult to get rid of them. It is especially unpleasant to uproot a long dandelion root that has sprouted next to the bulbs of ornamental plants - the probability of damaging these bulbs is too high.
Other annoying weeds in my garden: spotted aronnik, shepherd's purse, common ragwort, medium chickweed (wood louse).
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