When to prune a rose in the garden. Rules and methods for pruning roses for the winter

Autumn pruning of plants is necessary to strengthen them, provide buds and stems with access to light, ventilate the crown and increase winter hardiness. In addition to all this, autumn pruning of old branches leads to the laying of new buds and stronger shoots. Spring pruning is needed in order to ennoble and form a beautiful bush.

Not only old-timer roses that have been decorating your flower garden for several years should be pruned, but also young seedlings that were planted only this year. After autumn pruning, you should have powerful lignified shoots with dormant buds on the bush. No need to leave old shoots covered with dry bark and having a huge number of side branches.

Rose Pruning Basics

• Use sharp and clean tools.
• Thin out the plant in the center to allow air circulation and light.
• Pruning should start from the base.
• Make cuts at a 45° angle above the bud that is growing on the outside of the bush.
• Cuts must be made with even, not torn edges of the tool.
• Remove diseased, damaged, dead branches.
• Also remove thin weak branches.
• If pests bring a lot of problems in your area, then it is better to seal the cuts with an astringent.

The main types of pruning roses

To make your flower garden become more beautiful every year, consider the characteristics of the varietal group of plants. Depending on the variety, intensity of growth and size of the bush, use the appropriate type of pruning:

• Short pruning - after it, the base of the bush remains with two or three very short shoots. This type of pruning is used for roses prone to strong tillering.
• Medium pruning - the stems are shortened by half, leaving low shoots of 30 cm with 5-6 buds at the base. This type of pruning is suitable for many groups of roses, the only exceptions are park and English roses.
• Long pruning - after it, shoots are left on 2/3 of the stem, with about ten buds. Such a gentle and weak pruning is suitable for varieties of Bengal roses and hybrid tea varieties, English and park, species and vintage species. This method of pruning can also be done on other groups of roses, so you can achieve earlier flowering. But not everyone knows that if you practice it often for several years, the bushes will lose their shape and stretch, and their flowering will also become less abundant.
• The stems of climbing small-flowered roses do not shorten at all and do not need pruning, large-flowered ones are cut by a third of the length, the rest by half.
• Ground cover roses do not need autumn pruning. Care consists in cutting out diseased, broken, unripe shoots or those that have lost their decorative effect.

How to prune rose bushes

Expert gardeners advise pruning roses on a quiet and moderately sunny day in the third decade of autumn. Be sure to check the sharpness of your pruner and also sanitize it to avoid infecting or damaging your plants.

• Determine healthy and strong stems, leave five, and cut the rest under the root with pruning shears. A healthy shoot should be dark green in color and at least 1 cm in diameter, and it should not have a large number of side holes.
• Mark up to five buds on selected strong shoots from below, then you can start pruning. Cut the stem quickly, without breaking out its middle and without damaging the bark.
• The main thing is that the upper kidney is on the outside, step back 1 cm from it and make a cut with an inclination inward, this is necessary so that moisture does not linger on the cut. The middle of the trunk should be fresh and white.
• After cutting all the selected stems, coat the cut points with garden pitch or a special solution.
• Clean the bush and the area around it of cut residues so that when they rot, they do not infect healthy branches and roots.

Only properly pruned roses wake up earlier than usual in spring, give large buds and bloom densely and for a long time all summer. But you don't have to worry that something won't work out for you, because now you know how to prune roses.

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1. When planting a rose in the ground, do not leave the graft on the surface of the soil. It is better to deepen the root neck of the plant 2-3 centimeters into the ground.

2. You can not cut garden roses for the winter. So, the plant loses its vitality and leaves for the winter weakened. It is better to prune a rose in the spring, removing frozen and dead shoots to the place of the first bud on the flower.

3. It is better to water a rose with cool water. Watering - plentiful, but rare.

4. Do not make prolonged top dressing. Garden roses should be cared for and fertilized until mid-summer, and then stop adding nutrients.

5. Do not prune rose leaves for the winter. The plant will decide for itself how long it needs leaves.

6. No need to spud rose bushes with peat for the winter. Otherwise, if a thaw comes and it rains, the rose will begin to grow, although it should prepare for rest. It is better to spud a flower, like a potato, by 25 centimeters.

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HOW TO CUT ROSES CORRECTLY

2:589 Every year, with the onset of spring, roses are pruned. Reasons why roses are pruned:

1. Correction of the shape of the bushes after the previous growing season. Last summer the branches of roses grew in an undesirable direction. To do this, pruning of those branches that have violated the shape of the bushes.

2. Pruning of bushes is carried out in such a way that, according to the plan of the gardener:
- bushes will produce large, single flowers on long stalks;
- bushes will produce many flowers on many shoots. In this case, the flowers will be smaller, but in large numbers.

3. Rejuvenate the bushes by cutting off old branches and forcing the bushes to produce new young shoots.

After the chance of frost has passed and the buds have not yet opened, it is a good time to prune your roses.

Look closely at the roses first. All branches that have grown inside the bushes must be removed. This will thin out the rose bushes and allow for better ventilation. Then it is necessary to remove branches to living wood that have been damaged or died off during the winter. On strongly tall bushes, all frail shoots are pruned. If the bush is weak, then such shoots are also left, but the branch is shortened by at least one bud. This stimulates growth and strengthens the plant itself. Pruning roses should be such that the existing roots can feed all the branches of the above-ground part of the bushes. This is an important pruning condition. In this case, the roses will normally grow shoots and bloom well.

How to prune roses for growing large flowers

In addition to sanitary pruning roses with large flowers, they are pruned to grow large cut flowers. In this case, on each branch that you left, you need to cut off the shoot so as to leave 3-4 buds on it. This contributes to the development of powerful shoots from a small number of buds left. On such long shoots large flowers are formed.

Pruning roses for growing flowers in a flower bed

If you want roses to bloom profusely in a flower bed, then pruning must be done so that 3-6 buds are left on the shoots left after preliminary pruning for growth. As a result of such pruning, many flowers will appear, smaller and on smaller pedicels.

Pruning floribunda roses or tea rose hybrids

If you want to create a lush bush of these species, then you need to carry out a formative pruning. Depending on how you imagine this bush in the future, prune in this dependence. First, make a sanitary pruning, and then proceed to the formation of a bush. It is difficult to say how many kidneys should be left at the same time. It can be 3 or 6. It all depends on the bush itself that you decide to form. If the flowering and growth of such bushes suddenly decrease, then later you will have to make a stronger pruning of roses.

Pruning miniature roses

In general, miniature rose bushes are pruned in the same way as hybrid tea rose bushes. It is sanitary and shaping pruning. Leave 2-3 buds on the branches. The length of the branch is not more than 4″ (10cm). If you do not cut the plant, then it comes into flowering much later. In summer, faded flowers, dry twigs, wilted leaves are removed. This is done so that pests or diseases do not appear on them, as well as in order to improve the decorative effect of the bush.

Pruning climbing roses

Spring pruning of climbing roses is done only at the ends of the branches. If the plant is older than 4 years, then the old shoots are cut out completely to the base of the soil after flowering, the young shoots are not touched and are not pruned during the year, since it is at their ends that roses will bloom next year.

1. Early timely pruning stimulates the flowering of rose bushes. Pruning too early before the end of frost will slow down the flowering of roses.

2. Late pruning of roses slows down the beginning of the growing season.

3. Feed rose bushes after pruning.

4. In order for dormant buds to start growing on climbing roses, it is necessary to tie up a young branch in a horizontal or inclined position.

5. All sections larger than 1 cm must be covered with garden pitch or Novikov's liquid.

6. After pruning, the plants should be sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or a 1-3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Groups of roses such as Spinosissima, Rugosa, Gallica and their hybrids, Moschata almost do not need pruning. Flowers are produced on lateral shoots of biennial and older branches. Pruning of roses is carried out in case of damage to the branches or natural death. 2:8731

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It is best to prune with a knife so as not to crush the branch. The knife for pruning roses must be sharp. Disinfect it before cutting.

Pruning is done at a height of 5-8 mm above the kidney so that the future shoot does not dry out. The cut should be made obliquely from the kidney.

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Regular pruning of garden roses is necessary for their good growth and abundant flowering.

For different types of roses, there are different methods of pruning, since roses belonging to different groups differ greatly from each other. Pruning requires certain gardening tools that must be in good condition and well sharpened. These include: garden shears, garden knife, garden saw and side cutters.

The buds of roses are in the axils of the leaves. The upper buds germinate faster than the lower ones. The lowest buds, the so-called "sleeping", germinate later than others. If you do pruning on a kidney that has not yet formed, then the flowering period of the bush is thereby delayed. It is better to prune on the buds that are outside, thereby providing access to sunlight to the flowers and leaves. When more than one shoot is formed in the axil of the leaf, one must be left, removing the rest.

A well-sharpened tool is needed for the cut, if the tool is blunt, then it will not work to make an even cut, it will be torn, from which the branch may simply die. The cut should be made slightly at an angle, at a distance not exceeding 5 mm from the kidney. If the distance to the kidney is less, then it is easy to damage it than to cause infection and infection. An overestimated distance leads to the death of the "hemp".

Correct cut

Wrong cut

As a rule, pruning begins with the removal of damaged, dead or diseased branches, to a healthy stem or to the level of the soil. Pruning is done to healthy tissues, with a white core.

Pruning should be done to thin out a heavily bushed bush to prevent black spot, rust and powdery mildew which often contribute to poor air permeability within the bush. Sick pruned shoots are best burned.

In order to prevent friction between the stems or friction of the stem against the supports, at the points of their intersection, one of the stems is cut to the point of intersection.

To begin with, we will determine the timing of pruning pruning for different groups of roses.

For the correct formation of the bush, it is necessary to pinch the ends of the shoots. Garden roses, ground cover roses and climbing roses do not need to be pinched.

Young shoots of a planted seedling are pinched after the fourth leaf. For good growth of the bush and the formation of a symmetrical regular shape in the first year after planting, only the buds that have appeared are cut off, thus the growth of new shoots is stimulated. By autumn, the plant will get stronger and will be well developed, this will allow it to endure winter frosts.

In the last month of summer, you can stop pruning the buds and let the rose bloom.

There are light, moderate, strong and combined degrees of pruning.

Light pruning - pruning roses at the level of 2/3 of the initial height, approximately at the height of the eighth - twelfth bud from the base. It is also called summer, when faded inflorescences are cut off. Light pruning should be carried out on vigorous shrubs of hybrid tea roses and roses growing in unfavorable conditions with strong air pollution or on sandy soil, it is also the main one for ground cover roses in the first years after planting.

Medium or moderate pruning - pruning roses ½ of the initial height, about the fifth or seventh bud from the base. If there are weak shoots on the bush, then they are cut off more strongly. Medium pruning is the main type of pruning for adult hybrid tea roses. This method allows for high decorativeness and earlier flowering.

Strong degree of pruning - rose pruning at the level of the 3rd - 4th bud from the base. Such pruning is resorted to during the spring planting of a bush. It is also sometimes used if the hybrid tea rose bush is weak or heavily thickened. For adult floribunda roses, this type of pruning is not recommended.

But most often used in horticulture combined pruning. Applying different degrees of pruning, you can observe an almost continuous abundant flowering of the rose. Especially this type of pruning suits the floribunda group.

Depending on the period of pruning, the following types are distinguished: spring, summer and autumn.

spring pruning- the main one, it is carried out annually in the spring, as soon as swollen buds appear. The degree of pruning depends on the condition, variety and group of the plant. Sanitary pruning is also carried out, when damaged and diseased branches are removed after winter.

summer pruning held for roses re-blooming when faded inflorescences are removed to the first developed bud facing outward above the 2nd or 3rd leaf. This pruning prolongs flowering, stimulates the development of new shoots. It can be used to discharge a heavily thickened bush. If there are shoots that do not have buds or the buds on them are underdeveloped, they must be cut off by 1/2. This will allow one or more strong flowering shoots to develop.

By pinching the shoots at the very beginning of bud formation, the flowering period is shifted 20 days ahead, thereby stimulating the development of new shoots.

Starting from the end of summer and autumn, faded flowers are not cut, so as not to stimulate the formation of new shoots.

Autumn pruning - held in the autumn before the cold weather, in order to shelter and protect roses in the winter. It consists in removing undeveloped weak shoots, buds, flowers, foliage, and achieving the optimal height for an appropriate shelter. Climbing roses and straight-growing scars cannot be severely pruned for winter, they are bent to the ground and covered.

Often, wild shoots appear from the roots or the place of grafting, which are shoots different from the grafted one, its foliage is small, like that of a wild rose. It grows and multiplies rapidly. It must be removed immediately, because the growth weakens the bush and leads to its "wildness".

Shoots of shoots are removed from the very base, so if it forms from the root, the ground must be cleared to the place of its formation. You need to constantly monitor the formation of new shoots.

The reason for the formation of shoots is often poorly compacted soil or damage to the roots during weeding, as well as improper removal of shoots of shoots (from the ground), which only contributes to the formation of new ones.

Removal of root shoots from grafted roses: 1 - incorrect removal of shoots, contributing to the formation of new shoots; 2- correct removal of root shoots

In roses grafted onto a bole, wild shoots can form on the bole itself below the grafting site from dormant buds, it must also be removed immediately.

Removal of shoots of wild shoots from standard roses

Shrub large roses suffer from the appearance of wild shoots much less often than grafted roses, especially polyanthus and miniature.

The purpose of pruning this group of roses is the formation of strong shoots, the formation of the correct spherical shape of the shrub.

In the spring, before planting a hybrid tea rose, the seedlings are pruned heavily, up to 15 cm above the soil level (second or fourth bud), this contributes to the formation of new basal shoots, and in the fall, medium pruning is carried out. If the rose is planted in poor, sandy soil, then it is not worth cutting the rose strongly before planting, moderate pruning is enough (at the level of the fourth or sixth buds, 20 cm), and the next year you can make a stronger pruning.

Roses of this group bloom on the current year's shoots, so they are moderately pruned every year to stimulate the formation of new young shoots. If a hybrid tea rose variety forms a powerful bush, with tall stems over 1.2 m, then it is not recommended to carry out strong pruning, often because of this, non-flowering shoots are formed, and light pruning, which reduces the formation of buds, is also bad. It happens that the bottom of the rose bush is exposed, and flowering occurs only at the top of the shoots, in this case, the younger shoots are cut less than the old ones, some of which are cut off to the very base to allow new ones to develop. Often, to avoid such problems, combined pruning is used. Every year, it is necessary to remove 2-3 of the oldest stems during pruning to rejuvenate the bush.

First year

Before planting a seedling in the fall, pruning of the main stems (at the level of the fourth - sixth bud), damaged and too long roots is carried out.

Second year

1. In the spring in March, each stem is pruned, at the level of the second or third bud.
2. In summer, new shoots form on the shrub.
3. At the beginning of autumn, the flowering stems are shortened, the non-growthy and non-flowering stems are removed.

Third year and beyond

1. In March, pruning of diseased, weak, dead, overlapping and stems growing inside the bush is carried out.
2. The remaining shoots are pruned: strong at the level of the fourth - fifth bud (up to 20 cm), the rest at the level of the second - third (up to 15 cm).

6. In late September - early October, when the growing season comes to an end, cut flowering stems and non-flowering non-flowering stems.

Roses of this group differ from hybrid tea by a stronger developed bush, small flowers that are collected in inflorescences. Often the use of strong pruning harms them, and a weak one stimulates the growth of a bush with thin shoots.

If the roses of this group are planted in areas prone to strong winds, then it is best to use a moderate average pruning, at the level of the sixth to eighth buds (30-45 cm). Unfortunately, this type of pruning sometimes leads to the death of old shoots, without the appearance of new basal ones, and also does not provide continuous flowering.

Therefore, for these roses, a combined type of pruning is often used, when some shoots are cut heavily to enhance the growth of basal ones, while others are cut lightly for earlier flowering.

First year

Before planting, a rose seedling needs to be trimmed a little, to a height of about 15-20 cm (third to fifth bud), and roots that are too long and damaged.

Second year

1. In the spring of next year, you need to cut the stems at the level of the third or fourth bud and remove weak shoots.
2. The formation of new shoots will begin in April.
3. In autumn, in October, there is a strong growth of the tops of the first year. During this period, non-flowering non-woody shoots are pruned and the main shoots are pinched.

Third year

1. In the third year, at the beginning of spring, diseased, weak, dead branches and branches that intersect and thicken the bush are removed. Then rejuvenating pruning is carried out as follows: old stems are shortened to a length of about 15-20 cm from the base (by three to five buds), annual basal by 1/3, lateral remaining up to 10-15 cm (by two to three buds).
2. In October, the non-woody non-flowering shoots are pruned and the main ones are pinched.

Fourth year and beyond

1. In the spring, pruning of diseased, weak, dead, crossing and thickening stems is carried out.
2. Also during this period, rejuvenating pruning is performed as follows: old stems are shortened to a length of about 15-20 cm from the base (by three to five buds), annual basal by 1/3, lateral remaining up to 10-15 cm (by two to three kidneys).

Polyanthus roses are small branched shrubs up to 50-80cm high. Flowers are formed on the shoots of the current and previous year.

First year

1. After planting, light pruning is carried out on the strongest stems by 1/3, thin and weak ones are removed to the “ring”. For vigorous varieties, it is preferable to do light pruning for early flowering.
2. New growths will bloom at the end of the summer period. To prolong the flowering period, regular removal of faded flowers is necessary.

Second year

In the spring, it is necessary to remove weak, diseased and dead branches, pruning of old branches thickening the center of the bush is carried out. Cut back strong stems by 1/3 to maintain a leaderless shrub shape and prolong flowering.

Third year and beyond

In spring, strong shoots are cut by 1/3, branched stems, weak, diseased, old and dead branches are removed, as well as branches that thicken the center of the bush.

Miniature roses are undersized shrubs with a height of 30 cm to 60 cm, so they do not need much pruning, but there are times when several strong shoots form that spoil the appearance of the bush, making it asymmetric. With the regular appearance of such shoots, it is necessary to prune as for floribunda roses.

First year

Before planting in miniature roses, the stems are cut to a height of 10-15 cm (third - fifth bud), long, damaged roots, weak shoots are removed.

Second year

In summer, buds appear on branched shoots, and strong strong stems grow from the very base.

Third year and beyond

In early spring, the branches are shortened to 10-15 cm (by three to four buds), damaged or weak stems must be removed.

To form a beautiful bush of a climbing rose, it is necessary to carry out pruning, which will stimulate more abundant flowering. Trimming is especially necessary to create a thick covering of a wall or other vertical object.

If a climbing rose is formed horizontally, then the rose blooms more abundantly and more magnificently, as many flowering shoots are formed. Plus, it makes it easier to take care of. With vertical formation, flowering shoots form closer to the top, so they are less numerous, because of this, flowering is not as abundant.

Pruning climbing roses can be divided into 4 groups, depending on the nature of growth and shoot formation.

The first group includes roses blooming from June to July on the shoots of last year's basal stems (variety Dorothy Perkins, Excelza, etc.).

First year

Before planting at a climbing rose seedling, too long and damaged roots are cut, and the stems are cut to a height of 30 cm to stimulate active shoot formation, but this will postpone flowering for the next year.

Second year and beyond

1. On the horizontal shoots of the previous year, buds begin to set abundantly. Growing new ones also continue to form horizontally.
2. In September, faded shoots are pruned, except for 2, 3 last year's ones to form a skeleton. Then the side shoots located on them are cut to 10 cm (for two or three buds).

1. The final appearance of the climbing rose at the end of the second and subsequent years.

The second group of roses is identical to the first, the difference lies in the small number of basal shoots that have grown during the year, due to the formation of more shoots in the upper part of the old branches.

First year

Before planting, climbing rose seedlings cut roots that are too long and damaged, and stems to a height of 30 cm, to stimulate active shoot formation, but will postpone flowering until next year.

1. In the spring, young shoots begin to form.
2. New shoots are given a horizontal shape.

Second year

1. In the spring, there is an active growth of new shoots.
2. Flowering will begin in the summer on shoots grown on last year's growth. Basal shoots will also begin to grow, which in the future will be “guides”.

1. Starting from the end of summer, last year's branches are pruned into "guides". Faded side shoots and weak, damaged ones are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds). It is desirable to form new "conductors" horizontally.

Third year and beyond

1. A rose bush blooms on horizontally formed stems from last year and shortened shoots. Basal and replacement shoots begin to grow.

1. From the end of summer, the stems from last year are removed to "guides". Faded side shoots and weak, damaged ones are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds). It is advisable to form new "guides" horizontally, and cut 1-2 last year's stems to a height of 30-40 cm, for the further formation of new basal shoots.

Roses of this group are characterized by flowering on the shoots of the current year, their branches are very flexible, which allows them to be used for pergolas, arches, landscaping vertical walls, fences and arbors. The main skeleton is formed from long flexible stems. It is better to give a horizontal shape, sometimes at a slight angle, so that the lower part of the bush does not become very bare, especially at the initial stage of formation.

First year

Before planting, a rose seedling is cut off too long, damaged roots. Then it is necessary to shorten the side and weak shoots, the developed strong stems are fixed on a support. It is not recommended to cut the rose strongly, as it contributes to the formation of a more bushy shape.

In summer, emerging new basal stems are also tied up. Faded flowers and weak shoots are regularly removed.

Second year

1. New growing skeletal stems are tied up. Flowering will occur on the tops of basal shoots and on lateral growths of branches.
2. By mid-autumn, faded shoots are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to four buds). Remove the weak and sick. New growths continue to tie up.

Third year and beyond

1. In the summer, they continue to tie up new stems that have appeared, and periodically remove faded flowers.

1. By mid-autumn, faded shoots are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to four buds). Remove the weak and sick. If there are old depleted branches, they are also removed to develop new basal stems. New growths continue to tie up.

Roses of the fourth group are pyramidal. Flowers are formed on the shoots of this year. The growth pattern is more moderate, the stems are less flexible, therefore they grow more vertically, their length does not exceed 3 m. They are well suited for vertical gardening.

First year

1. Before planting, a climbing rose seedling is pruned, too long and damaged roots and weak shoots are removed.

2. The existing long stems are tied to a support.

3. The rose will bloom on the shoots of the old branches of the previous year. Faded flowers should be removed periodically. New shoots are starting to appear.

4. In the autumn, pruning is carried out, removing faded branches to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and weak, diseased shoots. To give the bush symmetry, sometimes it is necessary to remove several developed shoots. Young shoots try, if possible, to continue to tie to the support.

Second year and beyond

1. In the spring, pruning of weak, diseased and damaged shoots is carried out.
2. The rose will bloom on the shoots of the old branches of the previous year. Faded flowers should be removed periodically. At the base of the bush, new shoots begin to appear.
3. In the autumn, pruning is carried out, removing faded branches to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and weak, diseased shoots. To give the bush symmetry, sometimes it is necessary to remove several developed shoots. For the development of new basal stems, the old ones are shortened by 2/3 of the length. Young shoots try, if possible, to continue to tie to the support.

Park roses (cultivated wild roses) are one of the most popular groups of roses for landscaping. They are distinguished by a well-developed bush, early abundant flowering and resistance to frost, due to which they winter without shelter on the territory of our country.

They are planted both singly and in groups, to decorate borders, as a hedge.

This group of roses practically does not need pruning, except when, after several years of abundant flowering, the formation of flowers on the bush gradually decreases.

Spray roses bloom on the shoots of past years and this year, some once in the summer months, others until late autumn. By the way, this group of roses is characterized by the formation of bright fruits, respectively, it is recommended to leave faded inflorescences on the bush.

Pruning park roses mainly consists of the following recommendations:

During the summer growing season, it is necessary to form a skeleton of strong shoots, which must be properly positioned and regularly trim weak or damaged growths.

As the roses mature, wilted flowers are removed to encourage new ones to appear, except for roses that produce attractive, brightly colored fruits in the fall.

At the end of autumn, strong shoots are pinched by 5-10 cm in order to stimulate the formation of new lateral growths in the spring. In addition, this type of pruning serves as a prevention of such a disease as powdery mildew, since it begins with the defeat of the upper thin parts of the stem.

According to the method of pruning spray roses, 3 groups are distinguished.

Roses included in this group grow in a strong dense shrub, regularly forming basal shoots. Flowers appear on lateral shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, growing on old, last year's stems. The pruning of this group is almost minimal. These roses include: wrinkled rose (Riigosa), French rose (Gallica), strongly prickly rose (Spinosissima), musk rose (Moschata) and all their hybrids.

First year

Second year

1. In early spring, strong shoots are pruned, and improperly growing branches are removed.
2. In summer, flowering occurs on shoots growing from last year's old branches, new basal shoots appear.
3. In early autumn, faded flowers, weak growths, diseased, old and damaged stems are removed.

Third year and beyond

4. In the spring, the bush is inspected, if necessary, the branches and shoots are shortened, to stimulate the formation of new basal shoots, 1-2 stems are removed to replace the old weakly flowering ones.

5. In summer, flowering occurs on shoots growing from last year's old branches, new basal shoots appear.

6. At the beginning of autumn, faded flowers, weak growths, diseased, old and damaged stems and branches that violate the symmetry and shape of the shrub are removed.

Roses of the second group bloom only once, with flowers formed on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, growing on old stems older than one year. This group includes the following roses: centifolia rose (Centifolia), moss (Centifolia miiscosa), white (Alba) and many varieties of Damask and park roses with a one-time summer flowering.

First year

Before planting, pruning is not done, only damaged and thick roots, underdeveloped and damaged shoots are removed.

Second year

1. In the spring, long basal stems are cut by 1/3 (since this group is characterized by the formation of too long stems, which, under the weight of buds, often lie on the ground and sometimes break), as well as the removal of branches that violate the symmetrical shape of the bush. Shoots located on faded stems are shortened by two to three buds.
2. In summer, new basal shoots appear. Roses bloom on previously cut off shoots growing from old branches. Summer pruning recommended.
3. In autumn, long stems are cut to prevent damage by strong winds.

Third year and beyond

4. At the beginning of spring, long basal stems are cut by 1/3, shoots on faded branches up to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and old weakly flowering and poorly located stems that violate the shape of the bush are removed.

5. In summer, new basal shoots appear. Roses bloom on previously cut off shoots growing from old branches. Summer pruning recommended.

6. Long stems are pruned in autumn to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Roses of the third group are similar to the previous one, only the bush is shorter. This group includes many varieties of park (similar to varieties: Zephyrin Druin, Fontaine, Madame Isaac Pereire), Moyesi roses and tea roses, low varieties of remontant roses.

Unlike the previous group, these roses bloom repeatedly, flowering occurs on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order in summer on stems older than one year, and in autumn on shoots of the current year, characterized by the growth of long basal shoots blooming at the top of the stem.

Flowering is plentiful and long, new flowers are formed on the shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, this group is characterized by their dense interlacing, therefore pruning of faded flowers and thinning is recommended.

First year

Similar to the previous groups. Before planting, pruning is not done, only damaged and thick roots, underdeveloped and damaged shoots are removed.

Second year

1. In the spring, it is necessary to cut long annual basal stems by 1/3, shoots on stems that bloomed in the previous year to a height of 8-10 cm (two to four buds), remove weak shoots and break the symmetry of the bush, growing incorrectly.
2. In summer, the rose blooms on shoots growing from last year's stems. New stems are growing. Summer pruning recommended.

3. At the end of summer, shoots of the 2nd order begin to grow on cut stems, flowers form on the shoots of this year.

4. In October, faded flowers, dry, diseased and very long branches are pruned to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Third year and beyond

5. In the spring, in April - March, shorten the long annual stems by 1/3, the shoots on the stems of flowering in the previous year to a height of 8-10 cm (two to four buds), remove weak shoots and break the symmetry of the bush, growing incorrectly.

6. In summer, the rose blooms on the shoots of the last year's stems. New stems are growing. Recommended summer pruning (removal of faded flowers).

7. At the end of summer, shoots of the 2nd order begin to grow on cut stems, flowers form on the shoots of this year.

8. In October, pruning of faded flowers, dry, diseased and very long branches is carried out to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

A rose on a high trunk looks very decorative. This form of roses is obtained by budding on a wild rose or a wrinkled rose. To maintain the bush, the stem must be strong enough. Varieties of hybrid tea roses, ground cover, climbing and floribunda are grafted.

Standard roses are pruned similarly to spray roses. If the bush subsequently grows strongly and becomes heavy for the stem, then strong pruning is applied.

For uniform crown development, grafting is done with an eye on two sides of the trunk.

If a variety of hybrid tea or floribunda rose was grafted onto the trunk, then the bush will grow more upwards and need pruning corresponding to the group of roses to which the variety belonged.

If a tea-hybrid rose was grafted, as a rule, pruning comes down to shortening the main branches up to 15 cm from the base (by three to five buds), if the floribunda rose, annual shoots are shortened to 25 cm from the base (by six to eight buds), two-year ones - up to 15 cm from the base (three to six kidneys).

First year

1. In early spring, strong stems are cut to a height of 15 cm (for three to five buds).
2. In autumn, in the second half of October - early November, the main, flowering and non-flowering non-woody branches are cut off.

Second year and beyond

3. In the spring, diseased, weak, dead and intersecting branches are removed, the middle of the bush should be free.

4. In the spring, young shoots are also pruned to a height of 12-15 cm from the base (for three to four buds), the rest of the lateral ones are up to 10 cm from the base (for two to four buds).

To create a beautiful weeping standard rose, it is necessary to use for grafting both ground cover roses, characterized by the growth of strong shoots during the season, and climbing varieties of roses of the first group. For their pruning, use the method corresponding to this group of roses.

Pruning is reduced to shortening faded two-year-old stems into a ring at the end of summer, new shoots of this year are left to bloom next. With their small number, it is recommended to leave a couple of two-year-old stems, which are located most symmetrically relative to the center of the bush, shortening them to a height of 10 cm (by two to three buds).

In order for the rose to have a beautiful well-groomed appearance and regularly bloom profusely, pruning is necessary. Of course, roses can grow and bloom without it, for example, many roses of the climbing group rarely need pruning, but this is rather an exception. Most rose bushes need regular pruning.

If the shrub is not cut for a long time, if diseased, dried, damaged branches are not removed, it becomes less attractive, moreover, over time, the flowers become smaller, flowering becomes less abundant.

First year

1. At the beginning of spring, damaged, dry branches are pruned, about half of all main stems per ring. Side shoots are cut to a height of 10-15 cm from the base (two to three buds). Fertilize the soil with compost or rotted manure.
2. In summer, new basal shoots appear, flowering occurs on the shoots of old branches. Approximately once every 3 weeks, it is desirable to foliarly feed in order to promote the formation of new strong stems.

Second year

1. In the spring, in the month of March, the old remaining stems are removed, young shoots growing on last year's branches are shortened to a height of 15 cm from the base (by two to three buds). Apply fertilizer.
2. In summer, the rose will bloom on young annual shoots. The new skeleton of the bush is formed by young stems of the current and last years.

Any suburban area will benefit from improved aesthetics. This indicator can be achieved by planting a whole front garden of flowers in front of the house. Rose bushes are best suited for such purposes, but this plant is distinguished by its whimsical care and especially pruning. Even one season without pruning can cause a decrease in the number of flowers, and further wilting of roses. It is important to know and follow all the rules regarding growing roses in order to get large, beautiful and lush bushes at the beginning of the flowering season.

Pruning roses in spring for beginners

Pruning roses by novice flower growers is exactly the topic that is worth dwelling on in more detail. It is worth noting that the number of flowers and their splendor depend on the quality of pruning roses.

When to prune roses? Roses are often pruned in spring. After the onset of the vegetative period, because at this time the first shoots are formed and twigs on rose bushes.

For climbing plant species, the pruning procedure is most often suitable, which not only removes all unnecessary shoots, but also forms the shape of bushes before a full set of green mass. For example, if the branches went in the wrong direction, they need to be cut, but this must be done before the flower has entered the active growth phase. The period of early spring is best suited, when the temperature corresponds to the beginning of the vegetative period, but there is still no green mass. Pruning a clean bush not only makes the job easier, but there is no chance of simply damaging the underlying skeleton of the bush, which takes a long time to heal. In some cases, if the skeleton is damaged, roses may die altogether.

In addition to the fact that rose bushes require constant pruning in the spring, we must not forget about mulching, fertilizers and other plant care rules. Particular attention should be paid to drugs that treat flowers from pests. It does not hurt to use a variety of flower beds designed specifically for growing climbing roses and, of course, garters that help create a beautiful plant shape.

Florists who do not have sufficient experience in working with roses first of all need to read and study the theoretical part. There are many sources now, and if you are too lazy to read literature, you can watch a variety of videos from flower pruning specialists in the spring.

In the theoretical part, almost everywhere it is indicated that pruning flowers can only be done in spring, since roses are fragile plants. If you cut the branches in the fall, then the damage will not have time to drag on before the onset of cold weather. At low temperatures, the bushes already lose a lot of strength, and with damage, roses simply have no chance to survive the winter. Early spring is an excellent time to remove all damaged, old or dry branches without interference, which only take away strength, but do not bring any benefit.

First of all, the plant must be carefully examined for the presence of various damages, old and dry branches that will no longer be useful. Even the green mass does not grow on such branches. They are removed entirely, but young shoots and branches that show active growth in the spring are cut in a special way. For example, if you want to make a bush small and neat, each main branch is cut to the first or second upper bud. If you want to make the bush lush with a lot of buds, then you only need to cut off each main branch, including the first upper bud.

The main branches are actually the main parts of the bush, forming green mass and buds, therefore, you must first select the strongest and most resistant shoots in order to eventually get a bush that can survive all adverse conditions.

It is worth paying attention to the branches that begin to grow not along the bush, but towards the central part. Some flower growers leave such shoots unattended, and as a result they get an ugly shape, intertwined branches and flattened buds. All branches that grow towards the central part of the bush must be completely removed so that the roses form correctly at the very beginning of the growing season. It will be most productive to choose a shape that simply does not have a central part. The bush should resemble a domed structure, where the central part is missing and thus good moisture permeability can be achieved during irrigation or rain.

In size, they usually leave the shape of bushes, which in height does not exceed 10–30 cm, but in some cases it is possible to form a crown even at 1 m. The first option is more suitable for the front of the house, and higher forms are used on the back of the backyard.

Features of pruning roses in spring

How to prune roses in spring? This question can be accurately answered only by listing all the features that lie behind this flower care technique. First you need to understand that pruning is done, not only to remove extra branches.

Cutting a rose bush causes:

• rejuvenation;
• increase in the number of buds;
• active flowering;
• more green mass;
• the flowering period is extended.

All these factors can be achieved only if you make the right pruning, but how exactly to do it. Experienced flower growers begin this procedure by thinning the bush, and pay attention to the color of the cut. This should be done in cases where diseased branches are removed. On the cut, you can see dark spots that clearly indicate a plant disease. As a result, pruning continues until the plant tissues meet the norm. After all diseased branches have been removed from the bush, they must be burned. The disease can return if you just throw branches near the bushes, and it will spread more widely.

Pruning rose bushes, conditionally possible divide into three groups.

All forms are applied in stages, from the moment the flowers are planted in the flower beds. With consistent pruning, there is every guarantee that roses will grow quickly, keep your shape and delight with a large number of buds.

Rules for pruning climbing roses

Curly roses should be treated with the utmost care. It is distinguished by thin branches that intertwine not only among themselves, but can crawl onto a fence or other plants. When pruning this variety of roses, first of all, you need to pay attention to the branches that have chosen the wrong direction for growth. They must be removed immediately, because then it will be more difficult to remove them.

How to prune roses in spring? For climbing varieties You have to use different trimming rules. Here, first you need to remove parts of the main branches to the upper first bud, but all side shoots are cut off almost completely, leaving only 2-3 lower buds.

In the summer, shoots can be removed on which bad-looking buds have grown. Such branches are shortened to the first healthy leaf. Curly rose grows much faster than other varieties, so the branches quickly return to their previous state.

Conclusion

Roses are best suited for a summer cottage. These are beautiful and lush bushes that can delight throughout the summer. Even despite careful care, any flower grower who does not have sufficient experience can handle rose bushes. All you have to do is follow all guidelines and rules. As a result, the result will not be long in coming, and after the first pruning, you can see a significant increase in the number of buds during flowering.

What could be more beautiful than blooming roses. In every garden - small, spacious - roses create an atmosphere of romance, fabulousness and discreet luxury. Roses look spectacular both in the flower bed and in separate plantings.

But in order for roses to bloom luxuriously and please the eye, you need to take care of them. One of the main aspects of caring for these beauties is proper pruning, and this should be done regularly and professionally.

By cutting roses, we determine the number of young shoots, therefore, we create conditions for the formation of a large number of young shoots.

We also send the power of the plant to its development, influence the lush flowering and lengthen the lifespan. Therefore, proper pruning of roses is very important. Pruning roses is not a complicated procedure, but different groups require a different approach.

Rose pruning period

Spring is the best time to prune roses. Forsythia blooms can tell you when to pick pruners. As soon as the forsythia is covered with golden flowers, and the buds begin to swell at the bottom of the rose bushes, then you can start pruning. Somewhere at the end of April.

If you cut roses earlier, then during frosts, the cut shoots will freeze. Then the lush flowering of the rose will come later. If you linger with pruning, the rose will spend its energy on the growth of new foliage and shoots. As a result, the plant will be weak, and the flowering will not be lush.

Wild shoots, which often appear below the graft, are cut off. To do this, expose the root neck and cut it off at the base.

When pruning roses in summer, faded flowers should be removed, thus ensuring re-blooming. In autumn, it is necessary to cut off overgrown rose bushes, remove branches affected by fungi.

But the main pruning of roses is carried out, as noted earlier, in the spring, when it is clear which branches have not overwintered, and on which swollen buds are visible.

Basic rules for pruning roses

First of all, when pruning roses, you need to consider on which shoots the plant forms flowers: on last year's or on the shoots of this year. Next, you should clearly know what you want from this pruning: early and abundant flowering, or a certain shape of the bush.

There are general rules to follow.

It is necessary to work with a sharpened tool (garden knife, pruner, file) so as not to make torn cuts. The tool must be well cleaned and disinfected.

It is necessary to wash it in boiling water, and treat the blade with a disinfectant, for example, alcohol. Because with each cut, pathogens of various diseases stick to the garden tool and may be transferred to other plants.

Old shoots differ from young shoots in the color of the bark.

It is necessary to remove all old, weak, diseased, dead, and shoots growing inward.

The shoots of roses are cut off above the kidney. Buds are the rudiments of shoots that form in the axils of the leaves. On old branches, these are dormant buds that wake up immediately after pruning.

Pruning species spray roses

Shrub roses do not need constant pruning. Species spray roses form flowers on the shoots of last year, so they need last year's branches for lush flowering.

Every few years, the oldest shoots are removed to rejuvenate the bush. It is necessary to cut the shoots near the ground to stimulate the growth of young shoots. Pruning old shoots at the top of the bush will result in exposure. If spray roses are not cut at all, the bushes will age prematurely.

Pruning ground cover roses

These roses are not pruned. Remove frozen, broken shoots. To rejuvenate the bush, it is necessary to carry out a radical pruning 5 years after planting.

Pruning hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses

This group is united by the most noble roses, for them spring pruning is vital. Due to spring pruning, roses develop flower shoots, and they begin to bloom in the same year.

The density of pruning roses depends on the vigor of certain varieties. In low-growing varieties, 4 buds are left on the main shoot, and in vigorous roses - 7 buds. The more pruned floribunda roses are, the larger the new flowering growth will be.

Therefore, in low-growing varieties, it is necessary to shorten the shoots strongly so that new ones grow better. In miniature roses, shoots can be cut up to 10 cm, leaving the top bud.

Before pruning, it is necessary to remove the mound of earth that protected the grafting site in winter. Delete old branches as well.

Pruning spray roses

English roses are cut to 1/3 of the length. Spray roses should have an even mix of annuals, biennials, and perennial shoots.

Pruning reblooming climbing roses

Very beautiful re-blooming roses require annual pruning. Remove shoots growing in the wrong direction. To stimulate the lush flowering of roses, the side shoots are shortened. To rejuvenate old specimens of roses, shoots that are older than 6 years are completely removed.

How to prune single bloom climbing roses

These roses include ramblers. They grow very fast, the shoots of these roses grow up to 10 meters. With such dimensions, it is very difficult to trim. As a rule, these roses do not need pruning.

Climbing roses are pruned in the summer, immediately after flowering. Faded shoots are shortened by 20 cm.

How to prune standard roses

These roses are grafted onto a trunk. The purpose of pruning a standard rose is to give the crown a beautiful neat appearance. To achieve this, the bush is cut into 3 buds and the shoots growing inside are removed.

For roses on medium and high stems, pruning is carried out depending on the garden group and the grafted variety. Cascading and drooping standard roses thin out a little. Also remove the shoots that grow from the roots.

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