Handmade stool with carved legs. DIY stool made of wood
A stool is an integral element, a must-have fixture in any home. You can't call it too expensive or rare to be taken for hand-made, but a hand-made stool is sure to be more durable and elegant than a standard item from any store. This is what we will talk about today.
As with any more or less serious work, you need to be well prepared to create a stool. List of required toolsThe first step is to prepare all the tools that you might need. You need to prepare different tools, as we will look at various photos of stools, from which you can do the work yourself. The list looks something like this:
Materials for making a stoolIn addition to tools, of course, you will also need materials for making a stool. Their list can be limited to the following items:
Possible stool optionsSince stools are considered a fairly common option for seating devices, there are many varieties of them. We believe that it is necessary to consider the most convenient and popular ones in order to know for sure what you can do with your own hands. The most popular options are below:
To dot the "i", we suggest you look at the photos of the stools that we have given in the classification.
The stool, which we want to consider first, is ideal for both the kitchen and the glazed loggia, where you can sit down to relax and drink tea. It will have crossed legs, fastened with timber for greater structural stability. The seat of the stool will be covered with fabric, under which foam rubber will be located. This upholstered stool is the perfect seat for any kitchen. Naturally, in order to do everything right, it’s not enough just to follow the instructions, you need to carefully study the drawing, which we recommend that you do.
Characteristics of the barsTo make a stool, we need to prepare the bars. Their characteristics will be as follows:
Making a wooden stoolWe make legs and base
The first thing you need to take on is the legs of your future stool. Let's get down to business:
The legs are ready and it remains for you to paint their base in the color that you like best. We perform sittingWhen making a stool for the kitchen, a soft seat is something that must be present in its design. Luckily, it's not that hard to make. In order to make a durable seat, you need plywood. Its thickness is not too important, but a thickness of less than 12 millimeters is not recommended, since such a seat will be too flimsy.
Let's get down to business:
Congratulations, the part you will sit on in the future can also be considered finished. We collect a wooden stool with our own handsFinally, a few details of the future stool, your own production, are assembled. But by "assembled", we mean that they are made. And now they have to really be assembled so that the stool can begin to be used. Let's just say - the work is very simple. You just need to attach the finished base to the seat.
Your kitchen stool is made and ready for a long and reliable service.
DIY folding stoolEveryone knows what a folding stool is, and this, by the way, has been known for a very long time. This is an indispensable assistant for fishing, outdoors, this is something that you cannot do without in the country. And instead of going to the market and spending money on a stool of suspicious quality, you can also make it yourself. Stool: dimensions and drawingThe design of such a folding chair is painfully simple, but still, it is necessary to use the drawings so that everything comes out clearly and without unnecessary snags. Therefore, we offer you the ideal drawing for consideration.
Necessary materialsTo create all the necessary elements separately and assemble them into a single whole in the end, you will need the following devices:
How to make a stool from prepared materialsWhen all the materials and tools are collected, you need to start making a chair.
Suitable materials and a small nuanceIn the process of making a folding stool, in general, you can use almost any type of wood. But mainly pines or birches are recommended. By the way, a pine stool will have a very small weight, which is convenient for carrying it often, for use on fishing trips and to the country. True, such a pine stool tends to loosen quickly, and requires periodic tightening of the bolts that hold the structure together. There is another interesting design refinement that will make an already convenient device even more convenient. You can attach a portable handle to the structure of a folding stool. Such a handle is fixed between the inner legs. If you initially take bolts not 4 centimeters each, but 6-7 each, a very convenient handle for carrying the product can be fixed between the inner legs.
Making a stool with your own hands. VideoAt the end of our conversation, so to speak, to reinforce the work done, we offer you an entertaining video that tells you how to make a stool with your own hands. The video describes in detail all the nuances and subtleties of making a high-quality, durable and reliable chair at home. After spending half an hour of your personal time, you will finally figure out all the necessary operations and will be able to get to work with confidence. After all, it is not for nothing that they say that you can read it 10 times, but having seen it once, you will surely know how everything is done.
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For small kitchens, stools are most suitable: they are compact, lightweight, transportable, and they also currently have an elegant design.
Scheme of a stool made of chipboard.
If there are a lot of people in the house or relatives and friends often visit you, then with the help of stools they can easily be placed at the table. But if buying a new kitchen set is expensive, then you should know for yourself.
You can make a stool yourself without much difficulty, the main thing is that there is a desire and all the necessary tools and material. Despite the simplicity of the design of the stool, it is still necessary to prepare a drawing at the very beginning of work. Many neglect this stage of work, and as a result, you have to redo the furniture, because. this design is unusable.
Varieties of stool
Stools in their form and design are different. The seat of the stool can be square, round, octagonal or custom in shape. The legs of the stools also have a variety of shapes, there are standard rectangular ones, there are carved, twisted, solid ones, which, when connected, form a cross. And there are solid stools that are made of logs in the form of an hourglass.
Image 1. A simple stool consists of a seat measuring 300 x 300, and legs fastened to them.
There are stools that combine boxes for storing various little things, but such stools are not very comfortable. You can also select stools with a soft comfortable seat and just a seat made of boards.
The material from which kitchen stools are constructed can be different: metal, plastic or wood. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing stools, first of all, the place where they will be used is taken into account (whether it be a kitchen, a summer house or a gazebo), the interior already available there and financial resources that can be spent on buying a stool or building material to make, for example, stools for the kitchen on their own.
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Making a simple product
So, to make a simple stool, which is shown in the figure above (image 1), you need to prepare the following tool:
- Pencil
- Ruler and square
- Drill or screwdriver
- Hacksaw
- hex key
- Sandpaper
- Drills 6 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm
- Lacquer brush
- Set of furniture screws
- Electric jigsaw
Image 2. Diagram of a curly stool.
- Wooden beam for legs and crossbars with a section of at least 30 x 30 mm
- Piece of laminated chipboard 300 x 300 mm
- Varnish for wood
- Birch plywood 20 mm thick
Now you can start creating furniture for the kitchen with your own hands. The seat of the stool should be comfortable, so you need to determine its dimensions. The optimal size of the seat is 300 x 300 mm, this size is determined by convenience and compactness. But you can choose the size according to your dimensions. For simplicity, it is better to use laminated chipboard, it is easy to cut, and besides, it can be glued with edge tape, the shade of which can be chosen as you wish.
Using a hacksaw, you need to cut a square measuring 300 x 300 mm. To give strength to the seat, it is necessary to cut off the corners, the sides of which are 30-40 mm, or use sandpaper to round the corners, where the rounding radius will be 5 cm.
After the seat is ready, you need to ennoble it with the help of an edge tape. To do this, with sandpaper, you need to remove all the bumps and roughness, stick the tape, lay a piece of fabric on top of it and iron it with a hot iron. Any remnants of tape that remain outside the seat must be cut off with a clerical knife at an angle of 45 °.
Image 3. Scheme of the side part of the curly stool.
Now, on the underside of the seat, you need to make markings, mark the places where the legs of the stool will be attached. It is necessary to step back 30 mm from the edge of the seat and mark the attachment points with a pencil. Next, you need to prepare the legs of the stool. To do this, on a wooden beam, it is necessary to note the length of the legs, it can be different, it all depends on your own preferences, but the standard length of the legs is 430 mm.
Once the stool legs are ready, you need to drill holes in the seat, and it is best to do this from the top side of the seat to avoid unnecessary burrs. Holes also need to be drilled on the legs, the total depth of the hole, together with the seat cover, should be 50 mm, a little more.
Next comes the assembly of the stool, for this, legs are inserted into the intended places and fastened with furniture screws. Furniture screws are screwed in very tightly, so at this stage it is necessary to control their parallelism relative to each other. You should not replace furniture screws with self-tapping screws, because. stools on self-tapping screws loosen very quickly, and they will need to be constantly tightened.
Image 4 . Detail of a stool seat.
Now, in order for the stool to become strong and reliable, you need to fix the crossbars between the legs. The crossbars are made from a wooden beam, and the first two crossbars are attached 50 mm below the seat, the next two 70 mm from the seat. This is done in order to avoid crossing the screws inside the legs.
It remains only to cover the legs of the stool with varnish, and pour a little colorless sealant into the holes, but before coating the varnish, you need to go over the surface of the legs and crossbars with sandpaper. In this way, you can design stools for the kitchen.
A stool is a comfortable and compact piece of furniture familiar to everyone, which is most often used in the kitchen or in summer cottages. Chairs purchased in a store and made of wood composites do not always meet all the requirements of consumers in terms of aesthetics and practicality for such conditions, and at the same time they are quite expensive. That is why the question arises of how to make a stool with your own hands from wood so that it is reliable and lasts for many years.
Anyone who started making furniture with such a simple product as a stool, having stuffed his hand on it, may later want to make more complex and large-scale structures, for example, a table, a wardrobe or, which will save decent money for the family budget.
Even such a simple piece of furniture can be made in different variations and used for different needs. To decide which model you would like to receive as a result of the work, you should consider several similar products.
Children's stool
This version of the stool will not become superfluous in any home, as it is convenient not only for children, but also for adults. It is light in weight and compact in size, so it can easily be moved to any convenient place in the yard or at home, where it is needed at the moment, and even a small child can move it.
It is best to make such a model from a massive board, which must first be well processed. If it is required that the stool be very light, then dry linden is used for its manufacture, which has a beautiful textured pattern and a very low density.
If the thickness of the board taken for a small stool is at least 25 ÷ 30 mm, then only three main parts will need to be made - these are two legs and a seat that can be fastened with dowels, even without the use of additional reinforcing elements.
All parts of the product must be free of sharp corners and burrs. The blanks must be rounded and well polished so that there is no risk of injury or planting a splinter.
This piece of furniture can be used not only for sitting, but also as an ottoman, substituting it under your feet - this is especially often used by older people. Therefore, having made such a stool, you can please both kids and grandmothers by showing them your care.
Stool - drawer
It's not uncommon in a kitchen or workshop to run out of space for small items, and this stool model is great for clearing out some currently unused items on your desk. The boards that form the walls of the box strengthen the entire structure well and at the same time create a box where things can be placed that should always be easily accessible.
For example, women can use such a box to store needlework, as it is roomy enough and there is room for balls of yarn and knitting needles, as well as everything you need for hand embroidery or sewing.
The male half will calmly hide in a drawer under the seat some items of their household “arsenal” that are most often needed in the household - a hammer and nails, pliers and other not too large tools.
For the manufacture of such a product, you will need a well-crafted timber 50 × 50 mm, a board 200 ÷ 250 mm wide and 20 ÷ 25 mm thick, plywood for the bottom of the box and fasteners.
Folding stool
For small apartments with small kitchens or for small country houses, a folding stool is suitable. It can be kept constantly in the unfolded state, and if necessary, removed into any cabinet or niche between furniture and the wall, since when folded its thickness will be approximately 60 ÷ 80 mm, depending on the material chosen for manufacturing and design features.
The seat for this stool model can be made round or square, but each option has its own leg attachment design. The legs for such a stool are made of a board or thick, 20 ÷ 25 mm high-quality plywood. The base of the product consists of two frames, one of which must freely enter the other. The frames are fastened together from one side and the other with special screws with bushings or an axle-stud, which allows the structure to fold.
step stool
Another version of the stool, which can serve not only for sitting, but also act as a stepladder. Such a model is always useful both in a private house and in an apartment. For example, it is difficult to do without a stepladder during general cleaning, and it is also not easy to get the right thing from the top shelf of a high cabinet without it.
When folded, this design will not differ in any way from a conventional stool, since the steps will be under the seat. Turning a stool into a comfortable ladder is not difficult - you just need to pull the top of the temporarily inverted steps and carefully place them on the floor. The result is a sturdy and stable ladder that can also be used as a comfortable footrest when sitting on a stool.
To make this model, you will need massive boards for the seat and steps, as well as thick plywood for the legs and stringer under the steps.
Stool for giving
If you plan to use a stool in a summer cottage by type, only in a portable version, then you need to prepare a wooden beam for it, since plywood will not work in this case. Under the influence of moisture, it will begin to exfoliate, and the product will soon be hopelessly damaged.
For manufacturing, larch or oak is best suited. If other wood is chosen, then it will need to be well impregnated with moisture-repellent compounds, and then painted. Moreover, the process of pre-treatment of lumber is carried out even before the assembly of the structure.
Furniture used outdoors differs from that which is located indoors in that between the parts from which the seat and back are assembled (if a bench is made), gaps must be left so that rainwater does not linger on their surface, and details were ventilated faster.
Stool drawing
Having decided on the model of the future product, they make up its sketch-drawing, according to which all structural elements will be manufactured. When drawing up a drawing, all the necessary dimensions are immediately calculated and put on the figure. It is not at all necessary to make a diagram, observing all the canons and rules of drawing science - it will be enough even just to draw it by hand. The main thing is to be able to visually evaluate what will happen in the end, to see all the parameters of the necessary materials and the principle of their connection.
In the presented diagram, you can see the names of some of the parts that are included in the design of the stool - these are drawers, prolegs and "crackers". About them - a little more, so that in further descriptions it is clear what is at stake. All these details are necessary to fasten the structure and give it the necessary strength.
- Tsargi are bars or boards located under the seat of a stool and fastening the legs together with spiked joints, creating a strong support for the seat.
- A proleg is an element designed to increase the stability and rigidity of the structure. It is located in the central or lower part of the legs (according to their height) and also fastens them together with tongue and groove joints.
- "Crackers" are bars, boards or metal corners, installed diagonally on the inner corners of the structure under the seat and fixed to the sides and legs.
When drawing up a drawing, it is important to calculate not only the parameters of all visible structural details, but also the size of the internal connecting elements, such as the spikes cut out at the edges of the sides and the grooves in which they will be installed, selected in the legs of the stool.
Tools for the job
Without carpentry tools, making any piece of furniture from wood simply will not work. Professional master furniture makers have workshops fully equipped with special expensive machines. But in order to just try yourself as a carpenter, of course, you should not immediately purchase professional equipment, however, you still have to prepare some tools.
The list of the most popular tools for working with wood is as follows:
- It's great if the farm has a set of cutters that will help to process the edges of boards, timber and plywood, drill holes of various sizes or carefully select grooves and grooves on any of the details.
- To get rid of tedious operations, you will need a grinder with interchangeable wheels of varying degrees of grain size - to make the surface of the wood smooth. This work can be done manually, but it will take much more time.
- Electric jigsaw. This tool, of course, can be replaced with a hand saw, but after sawing the boards with it, the edges of the parts will not turn out neat, and you will have to work on them well using a milling cutter. Again, sawing the material by hand will take much longer.
- will be necessary not only for screwing in fasteners, but also for drilling holes in parts. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a set of screwdriver bits and drills of different diameters. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use any drill and a set of manual screwdrivers.
- Clamps of various sizes. If you want to make a really high-quality and durable thing, then clamps must be on hand without fail, since when gluing boards into a solid panel or individual parts together, they must be strongly compressed and left in this position for a sufficiently long time, and besides these No other tool can do this.
- You always need a hammer and chisels of different sizes. Sometimes you have to resort to using a planer - it can also be manual or electric.
- Measuring and marking equipment is being prepared - a tape measure, a construction square, a wooden ruler for 500 ÷ 1000 mm, a simple pencil, thickness gauge, etc.
In addition to these tools, for convenient work, you will need a fairly large and durable table - a workbench.
Making stools
folding stool
Traditional simple stool
The designs of even the simplest products may differ from each other by some elements, which, as a rule, are designed to give the stool additional strength.
Materials for manufacturing
A simple model of a stool looks like this and consists of parts indicated in the drawing by numbers:
1 - Legs.
2 - Stool legs.
3 - Tsargi.
4 - Seat.
5 - Connection elements - supports for installing the seat.
6 - Connecting grooves.
7 - Connecting grooves.
For the manufacture of traditional stools with a height of 500 mm, a seat of 450 × 450 mm and straight legs, the following parts will be required:
- Four, well processed, to smoothness, beams for legs, section 50 × 50 mm, height 485 mm. They can be straight or tapered downward cuts on the inside.
- For the seat, you need to prepare two or four boards 12 ÷ 20 mm thick, 450 × 225 mm or 450 × 112.5 mm in size, or a plywood panel 450 × 450 mm, 12 ÷ 20 mm thick.
- To give the stool strength, in different types of structures, 4 footrests and 4 drawers made of timber with a section of 30 × 30 and a length of 441 mm can be used, or only drawers - 4 boards with a section of 30 × 60 and a length of 441 mm.
- Additionally, connecting elements can be used, in the form of small pieces of bars fixed on the inside, in the middle of the sides, but you can do without them if bars of sufficient thickness are taken for the base under the seat.
- A beam of 30 × 30 mm for the manufacture of "crackers", if they are supposed to be installed.
- Wooden dowels (chops) for fixing the seat to the finished base - 4 pieces, 30 mm long and 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Joiner's glue.
Stool assembly
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step, in order not to waste time, is to glue the boards for the seat if it will consist of several elements. To do this, well-fitted and polished end sides of the boards are smeared with glue, connected to each other and pulled together in clamps. This design should dry thoroughly, and while it sets, you can start assembling the frame base of the stool. |
 | Next, prepare the bars for the legs. They must have perfectly even cuts and be the same in height, which can vary, depending on the desire of the master, and range from 450 to 500 mm. |
 | The next step is marking on the legs and determining the place for selecting the connecting grooves for installing the spikes of the footboards and the tsarg (or only the tsarg if the footrests are not included in the design). Holes are selected using a milling cutter or chisel. |
 | Next, the edges of the tsarg and footrests are processed. Spikes are cut out on them with a width, height and depth less than 1 ÷ 1.5 mm than the openings of the grooves in the legs intended for them. The spikes should be loose enough, but still tightly fit into the grooves. |
 | After that, the legs are assembled in pairs, fastened together by means of footrests and tsarg - their spiked parts are glued into the grooves of the legs. Each of the resulting frames is pulled together in clamps. Then, after they dry, the legs connected in pairs are also connected by drawers and legs into a single design of the base of the stool and again compressed in clamps until completely glued. After the glue dries, all connections are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. |
 | If it is supposed to strengthen the stool with “crackers”, then they are screwed to the tsargs and the leg of the stool. This element, flush with the top edge of the drawer side, will provide additional support for the seat. |
 | The next step is to mark and secure the seat of the stool. To do this, glue is applied to the reverse side of the panel according to the marking, and then it is laid on the finished base of the stool, leveled and pressed. Further, in the corners, through the seat panel, one hole is drilled, the diameter of which should be 1-2 mm larger than that of the prepared dowels, and the depth should be 5 mm less than their height. Glue is poured into the hole, and then the dowels are clogged. The glue that comes out is wiped off immediately. The top of the dowel is cut off with a milling cutter, and this place is polished to smoothness. In addition, the seat must be pulled off with clamps until the glue dries completely. |
Glue can be designed for different drying times, and this is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is possible to operate the products only after the full expiration of the specified period.
Folding stool
The folding version of the stool is convenient because, due to its compactness, it can not only be stowed away in a small space of residential premises, but also easily fit in the trunk of a car for transportation to the country.
baby stool
Materials for manufacturing
To make such a model of a stool, you will need slightly different materials than those used for a traditional product. So, some craftsmen prefer to purchase finished processed furniture panels made of natural wood. They are great for cutting structural details, since, having cut them out of this material, it remains to process only their edges.
For the presented version of the stool, the master needed a panel measuring 1120 × 400 × 24 mm, and in addition to it, in addition, the following materials:
- A stud with threads cut on both sides and end nuts, 250 × 8 mm in size, for through installation, or a stud with blunt ends for installation in blind grooves.
- Butterfly furniture hinges with a size (opened) 350 × 400 mm - 4 pieces.
- Dowels or chopsticks 50 × 8 mm.
- Joiner's glue.
- Stain and colorless varnish or tinting varnish.
- Self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long.
The dimensions of all structural details are clearly visible in the presented drawing.
The folding stool consists of the following parts:
- The seat is round, 350 mm in diameter.
- Frame 166 mm wide, consisting of two bars, 500 × 48 × 24 mm in size, and a cross member 122 mm long.
- A frame 122 mm wide of two bars 500 × 48 × 24 mm with cuts at the upper ends at an angle of 30 degrees, and crossbars 70 mm long.
Making a stool
Processing of parts and their assembly is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | It must be said that the seat can be round or square with rounded corners, the choice of the master. In this case, a round seat with a diameter of 350 mm is selected. For the convenience of folding the stool, a curved hole should be made in the upper part of the seat, about 120 mm long and 20 ÷ 25 mm wide, so that it is convenient to take it by hand. It can be cut with a milling cutter or drilled at a distance of 120 mm from each other two holes with a diameter of 20 ÷ 25 mm, and then connect them by sawing the wood between them with a jigsaw, making two cuts. In order for the hole to turn out neat and smooth, its edges must be immediately processed. |
 | The processing of the edge of the seat and the inner edges of the “handle” hole is most often done using a semicircular cutter. But if this tool is not available, then they are put in order, first using a file with a large notch (rasp), and then sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually bringing the wood to smoothness. |
 | The next step is to process the prepared bars of the legs. In two of them, which will form the outer frame, you need to cut a groove 180 mm long and 8 mm wide, and 42 mm deep, along which the stud will go. Sometimes the grooves are made through - it is for this case that a threaded stud is selected at the ends, onto which a special plug nut is screwed. In the other two bars, according to the scheme, through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through which the pin will pass - these elements are intended for the manufacture of a narrow frame. |
 | The grooves are cut using a milling cutter, or holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended line, which are then combined into a common groove using a jigsaw. The work is carried out on a special machine, or the beam is rigidly fixed in a vice, and then holes are drilled in it using a drill or screwdriver. |
 | The bars that will form the inner, narrower frame of the stool, in the upper part, must be carefully sawn off at an angle of 30 degrees - this process can be done on a machine tool or using a miter box. The corner must be cut perfectly precisely, so you can not do this work "by eye". On the bottom of the legs, the corners and edges are recommended to be slightly rounded. |
 | The crossbars installed between the legs are mounted on dowels, which are glued into the drilled holes. This process can be done in different ways. Most often, first, a jumper for glue is installed in the place intended for it, the legs are compressed in clamps, and left to dry completely. Then, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are drilled, which go deep into the end sides of the jumpers, at least 20 ÷ 25 mm. After that, dowels are carefully driven into the holes on the glue. Two fasteners are required on each side of the jumpers. |
 | On the back of the seat, according to the drawing, the markings are made of the places where the butterfly loops will be attached. Then, the loops are laid on the marked place and outlined. Further. from this place, a landing "nest" is selected with a depth equal to the thickness of the loop, that is, the loop, when fixed, should be flush with the main wooden surface. |
 | Next, the loops are fixed on the upper end sides of the legs. They are screwed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which should be in the same plane with the surface of the hinges. In the next step, the second side of the loops is fixed in the nests prepared for them on the back of the seat. |
 | To make the design look neat, it is recommended to close the hairpin with a tube carved from wood. You can also replace the wooden version of the element that masks the hairpin with a plastic tube, since it is not so easy to carve this part out of wood. The length of the tube should be 68 mm, the inner diameter is 9 mm, the wall thickness of the tube can be from 2 to 10 mm. |
 | Further, the hairpin is inserted into a narrower frame through the prepared decorative tube, and its ends are inserted into the grooves of the outer, wider frame, along which they will walk when folding and unfolding the stool. |
 | I must say that the folding stool may have a slightly different design. It uses not one, but two studs, and instead of an internal frame, a solid board is fixed, and it serves as an equally reliable leg for a stool. The second, outer frame has a jumper in its lowest part, at such a level that when the structure is folded, the leg board fits neatly into it, creating one panel. The fastening of such legs to the seat is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first version of the folding stool. |
 | For comparison, you can see how one and the other model of the finished product looks like, and choose the one you like for manufacturing. It is probably not difficult to understand that the second design option is simpler in execution. |
Stool with wicker seat
A stool with a wicker surface can be made in a low or full, high version - it will be convenient in any case. Its seat can be made of various materials - durable fabric, belts (including old car seat belts), cord and even a plastic-braided cable. It is quite possible to come up with your own version.
Materials for manufacturing
The frame for such products is mounted, in principle, according to one scheme, however, if a high stool for an adult is to be made, then the design should be more reliable, that is, it is desirable to strengthen it with strong drawers and legs. We must not forget that the seat of a traditional stool is also a reinforcing part of the structure, and its wicker version itself requires a particularly strong frame.
So, for the frame of a rectangular stool, having a size of 500 × 400 mm, you will need:
- Wooden blocks 50×50 mm for the legs – their height can be chosen individually.
- Bars for drawers and footrests, section 50 × 25 mm.
- Metal or wooden corner elements - "crackers".
- Self-tapping screws.
- Leather or synthetic straps, or strong rope in one or two colors.
We note right away that the model shown in the example has a fairly large seat, which reduces the overall strength of the stool. Therefore, it may be more reasonable to make this structural element a little smaller, for example, 350 × 300 mm.
Find out by reading the options from "classic" to "transformer" in a special article on our portal.
Making a stool
The manufacture of such a stool is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | From the bars prepared for work, the structural elements of the stool are cut. The legs are available in heights from 300 to 500 mm, and the model shown is 400 mm high. In order for the legs to be stable, their end parts must be perfectly even. Therefore, they should be marked on a construction square, and it is advisable to saw them with a circular saw, which will give a perfect cut. |
 | The next step is to prepare the bars for the legs and the tsarg. In this case, 4 beams are cut out with a length of 450 mm and 4 beams - 300 mm each. These elements should also have smooth edges for a snug fit to the legs. |
 | To make holes for fastening structural elements at a certain angle, a special tool (jig) is used that can direct the drill bit in the right direction. This device is fixed on a bar, and two holes are drilled through its guide holes on each side of the wooden part. After all the elements of the stool are ready, they should be cleaned well - this process is best done before assembling the structure, since it will be easier to see all the problem areas on the wood. |
 | This photo shows how such holes look inside the timber. |
 | Additional fastening of the tsarg and footrests with legs can also be carried out with the help of “thorn-groove” fasteners, and then, for maximum reliability, also with metal corners - “crackers”. These parts must be selected according to the width of the wooden bars. |
 | If the first mounting option is chosen, using self-tapping screws, then the assembly and fixation of all parts of the stool look as shown in the presented photo. |
 | At the end of the assembly, the stool frame should be strong and stable. When relying on it, it should not swing. |
 | If it is planned to be painted or tinted, then this process is carried out before the seat is made. |
 | To equip the seat for the model shown in this example, it took 17 leather straps, 35 mm wide. As already mentioned, seat belts used in cars can be used instead. The belts are screwed with two self-tapping screws 10 mm in size at a distance of 9 mm from each other, on the wide side of the beam, which goes inside the stool frame. The length of the belts must be measured in advance using a tape measure, “going” with its flexible tape all the way the belt is located. First you need to fasten the straps, which will be located along the length of the rectangle. Having fixed the belts from the inside, they go around the beam, pull it through the seat frame to the opposite beam-side, go around it and also fix it on the inside with the help of the same self-tapping screws. |
 | After the longitudinal belts are fixed, the belts should be fixed in the same way, which will cross the already stretched elements across. They are screwed along one of the long sides of the frame. Then, each of the belts is passed across through the longitudinal belts, in the form of weaving. After that, they are also wrapped on the inside of the opposite side, stretched and screwed. After completing this operation, you can proceed to the “testing” of the product. |
 | Another design option for a flexible stool seat is to pull a strong rope or cord onto the frame. In this case, paper rope was used. In addition to it, it is necessary to prepare furniture nails with wide hats and a hammer, as well as clamp pliers and an awl. |
 | You can purchase a rope of different colors for weaving and display one of the selected patterns on the surface of the seat, getting a stylish piece of furniture that will complement the interior design. |
 | The end of the rope of the same color is nailed to the back side of the drawer with the help of two furniture nails. |
 | Further, two long opposite sides of the frame are carefully wrapped with a rope. If the frame is square, then the process of laying the rope can be started from either side of the structure. |
 | Braiding opposite tsars with a rope, its loops are pressed against each other as tightly as possible and pulled. Having covered approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm of the seat length with a braid, the rope is temporarily fixed with tongs so that it does not weaken. So they continue to work until the entire surface of the seat is covered with a wound rope. |
 | Having finished the tight-fitting of the seat in two drawers in one color, you can proceed to weaving it across with a twine of a different color. To do this, in this case, a white rope is taken and also fixed on the back of the drawer, which runs parallel to the already wound rope. |
 | With the help of a white cord, any pattern can be “highlighted” from a red background. This process is relatively simple, and will be accessible even to a beginner. |
 | In this case, white cords are pulled between the red rope so that the result is a herringbone pattern, that is, stripes are obtained that turn diagonally from the center of the seat. |
 | Having interlaced 6 ÷ 8 rows and pulled them, the white rope is grabbed on the reverse side of the tsargi with a furniture nail. If this is not done, the seat during operation of the stool will quickly stretch and sag. This procedure must be carried out every 6 ÷ 8 rows, hammering nails on one or the opposite side. |
 | The result should be a sturdy seat, four threads thick, with an interesting design. If you want to choose a different pattern, woven from three or even four colors of rope, then on the Internet you can always find exactly what suits a particular interior. |
It should be noted that in the second version, where the seat is covered with a rope, the frame is not very strong and is unlikely to withstand heavy people, but such a stool is perfect for a child's room or as a footrest. If you want to make a full-fledged product for the seat, you need to choose a more massive beam for the frame and strengthen it especially reliably.
Find out by exploring several available options in a special article on our portal.
In conclusion, it is worth saying that making a stool on your own, without having experience with wood and a special tool, is not so simple as it seems at first glance. However, if there is a desire and enough patience, then it is quite possible to try yourself as a carpenter. The main thing is that you need to tune in to serious work, and not do it “slipshod”.
Video: a master class on making a simple wooden stool
A stool is one of the simplest types of furniture. Whatever changes our life has undergone, it remains unchanged. Only the materials from which it is made change. In Soviet times, making a stool with your own hands was one of the first tasks in labor lessons. Carpentry was known not only to boys. Sometimes the fair sex also had to comprehend the basics of adult life and learn how to make a stool with their own hands. Modern furniture bears little resemblance to its counterparts 50 years ago. Wooden stools of that time were rough, but durable. They fit perfectly into the interior of the kitchen, as well as other rooms. Now the stores have a rich assortment of different types of furniture, but there are also lovers who want to learn how to make a stool with their own hands. And in our time of abundance of building materials, it will not be difficult at all.
The main parts of the stool are the seat and legs. The legs are connected at the top with tsargs, and at the bottom with prolegs. Having mastered the terms, you can do the drawings. First, you need to decide on the size. When making a stool, it is better to build on old, but reliable models that can be found in every home. Having measured the height and other parameters, you can begin to develop a circuit. If you do not have a sample, then for an adult stool the size of the side of the seat will be 300-450mm, for a child - 250-280mm. Homemade stools should be even more convenient than purchased ones. At least because you can choose the height for yourself. Usually the size for an adult is 420-480mm, for a child - 260-280mm. Drawings of stools must be carried with you, whether it is a diagram from the Internet or compiled by you. After all, it is much easier to eliminate shortcomings on paper than to redo all the work.
Materials and tools
Making a stool will require quality materials that have stood the test of time. In the first place, of course, wood. Wooden stools are in first place in terms of convenience and in second place after forged ones in terms of durability. The tree should be dried at room conditions at 20-30 degrees, a chamber-drying tree should not be taken, since the possibility of cracking is not ruled out. After air drying, the material must be dried at home at room temperature for about a month. It is best to take hardwood: maple, birch, beech, wenge, hemlock, mahogany. Or make legs out of them, which carry the main load, and a seat made of pine, spruce, MDF, chipboard or plywood.
Just one of those things that are done in 15 minutes, and then serve for years. Moreover, the master class itself to write and read even longer than to do it. Therefore, my son (a boy of 11 years old) decided to make it on his own, however, under my strict guidance. But only as a consultant and photographer.
So, a simple stool. For her, we need only four pieces of chipboard:
Two on legs, 200 by 250 mm;
One upper part - 250 by 300 mm;
And one spacer 90 by 200 mm.
All this I did not buy and did not order. And in workshops where large sheets are cut out, there are a lot of unnecessary scraps. Here they are, “thank you”, I scored plenty, and now they should make a comfortable stool made by myself.
In addition, you will need a simple device for pasting parts with an edge (you can also do without it, it’s just more convenient),
the edge itself
iron,
knife,
a piece of sandpaper fixed on a block,
hex bit for confirmations,
drills (seven millimeters and confirmed),
"His Majesty" screwdriver,
four confirmations,
five chops,
small hammer and/or rubber mallet
wood glue PVA,
and four legs.
I just had all this at home, and you may have to take a walk to the furniture fittings store. Now let's start making a stool with our own hands.
To begin with, we glue the workpieces with an edge. It's very simple, so a hot iron will help you. You can use any, even borrow a particularly fashionable one from your spouse, secretly. She won't notice anyway, and you won't spoil it. So, we glue the edge for our hand-made stool with a hot iron (a few seconds will be enough) and rub the adhesive base with a rag. The edge is very hot, so be careful not to burn yourself.
Cut off the excess, and glue the parts on the other side. Then, for complacency, go over the ends with sandpaper.
Now, with two confirmations, screw one leg to the transverse bar,
and then another. The basis for our homemade stool is ready.
Drill five holes in the lid. Not through, but in secret,
and hammer dowels on the glue. The lid for our simple stool is ready.
Mark five holes, drill them too, pour glue, and connect both parts into a single whole. Made a stool
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