Panicle hydrangea paniculata. Hydrangea paniculata: how to plant and care
At the end of summer, the flowers mostly finish their bloom, but the hydrangea covers itself with a magnificent inflorescence until late autumn. Her time is coming!
During the first French expedition around the world, led by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, a unique plant was brought to Europe. If it weren’t for a combination of circumstances, now this flower would have had a different name - “poivria.” Carl-Heinrich Nassau-Siegen, Prince of the Roman Empire, Philibert Commerson, a naturalist and a French doctor, took part in this expedition. It was Monsieur Commerson who proposed to name the flower in honor of the beautiful sister of Bougainville, Hortense.
Hydrangea variety
North and South America are considered the homeland of some species, while others are China, Japan, Sakhalin, and the Kuril Islands. There are 70-80 species of shrubs. But, unfortunately, not all grow in our strip. Let's dwell on the four types of hydrangeas that are most common in our area:
- treelike - lat. name Hydrangea arborescens
- large-leaved hydrangea or large-leaved hydrangia - lat. name Hydrángea macrophylla
- petiolate - lat. name Hydrangea preslii
- panicled - lat. name Hydrangea paniculata
Hydrangea arborescens is a very resistant and very unpretentious shrub, some varieties of which can reach 6 m in height. Blooms from July to October. The inflorescences are round, mostly white, cream and pale pink. Moisture-loving shrub, grows well in partial shade. Can be planted singly or in groups. The most common varieties:
- Annabelle. A medium-sized spherical plant with white inflorescences.
- Hayes Starburst. Dome-shaped inflorescences of white color. It blooms for a long time due to the formation of new spherical flowers in the center of the flower.
- White Dome. Dome shaped bush. A large numerous inflorescence in the center of the petals are creamy-white, snow-white along the edges.
Tree hydrangea (lat. Hydrangéa arboréscens) View large-leaved hydrangea differs from other species in the variety of shades. Pink, white, purple, blue, lilac or violet - for all its riot of colors, the plant looks organic with other representatives of the flora, even deadwood. This variety of hydrangea is not resistant to frosty weather conditions. This is due to the biology of the plant: the ovary is formed at the ends of the last year's shoots. Poor winter hardiness due to the fact that the shoots freeze during cold weather, as a result, the bush does not bloom. For this reason, before the onset of cold weather and frost, they carefully cover or hide the plant in the basement, where the temperature does not drop below zero.
In the spring, do not rush to open or plant a hydrangea in the area until the air warms up enough. According to the observations of gardeners, she is more afraid of spring frosts. A temperature of -5 in spring is detrimental to hydrangea buds.
Large-leaved hydrangea (lat. Hydrángea macrophýlla) Hydrangea tree care (video)
Recently, varieties have been bred that are not afraid of frost. The ovaries are formed not only on the shoots of the last year, but also on the shoots of the current year.
For example, the Endless Summer series:
- Blashing Bride. White flowers that turn pinkish over time
- Original (Original) Spherical inflorescence of pink or pale lilac color.
- Twist and Shot (Twist And Shout). The flowers of this variety are small central and large marginal.
Hydrangea Series Endless Summer Twist And Shout Series Foreve and Eve (Forever and Ever) change color, depending on the characteristics of the soil:
- Pink (Pink) - pink, but on more acidic soil they turn blue
- Blue (Blue) - on the contrary from the variety Pink, blue, and on alkaline soil they become pink
- Red (Red) - at the beginning of the season they are red, at the end they turn purple
- Dichromatic (Dihromatik) - two-color flowers, white with a pink eye.
The main advantage of large-leaved frost-resistant varieties is long flowering. After the shrub blooms for the first time, buds appear again after about five to six weeks. This continues several times. As a result, the shrub is decorated with color in good weather conditions from June to October.
Hydrangea series Forever and Ever Petiolate, climbing hydrangea
The only species that is accepted in our area. Other species are afraid of the cold. The climbing variety is used in vertical gardening (walls of the house, terraces, fences, arches) because of the lush foliage. The plant receives nutrition not only from the roots that are in the soil, but also from the air. The liana winds to a height of more than 10 m, growth increases by 50-100 cm during the season. The plant must be planted in partial shade, in a protected place from cold winds. Flowering occurs in June, July. The flowers are white or white-pink with a pleasant aroma. Petioled hydrangea attracts bees with its aroma. The plant may be a groundcover if no support is provided.
Planting and caring for petiole hydrangea (video)
Paniculata hydrangea
It got its name because of the shape of the inflorescences - panicles in the shape of a pyramid. The length of such a "pyramid" reaches 25 cm. The flowers of the paniculate hydrangea of two species are bisexual and sterile. Sterile flowers stay on the branches for a long time, and bisexual flowers immediately fall off after pollination.
One bush can occupy an area up to 2 m in diameter. For this reason, before planting a cutting, design a landing site, taking into account the fact that this variety needs space. The plant must be constantly replanted for 5 years, regular top dressing is required. Do not be afraid to plant hydrangea in shady places of the site, because unlike other flowering plants, it takes root well in partial shade. The shrub is quite frost-resistant. Even if the frost grabs, it will quickly restore its strength and again please with its color this year. Timely watering is the main thing in caring for shrubs. For hydrangeas, even a short-term drying of the soil is detrimental.
In the very name of the plant there is a Greek word - water, which indicates the preferences of the plant.
Paniculata hydrangea After planting, the first flowering will come in 4 years. Be patient! Your waiting will be rewarded with abundant color. It begins flowering with white inflorescences, and ends with rich pink blossoms.
Consider the composition of the soil before planting a paniculate species with other shrubs and trees. The plant reacts to its composition by changing color.
A slightly alkaline earth gives a pink color, and an acidic one gives a rich blue color. This happens due to a lack or absence of iron in the soil. Experts experiment with the addition of iron, different acids and get the desired shade of flowers or a combination of pink and blue flowers on the branches of one shrub. After all the flowers have fallen, the soft, velvety leaves will be no less attractive.
How to care for paniculate hydrangea (video)
Designers use panicled hydrangea for decorative purposes for their original shape and bright color, which give the backyard a delightful look.
We list the most famous varieties of this species:
- Grandiflora (Grandiflora). It is distinguished by a creamy color, which changes its shade by autumn.
- Kyushu. The bush is airy up to 3 m. The inflorescences have an openwork shape. early flowering
- Floribunda. Cream-colored flowers with dark green leaves.
- Tardiva. The conical shape of the inflorescence is white in color, which change to pink and red.
- Le Vasterival. The flowers are white in the form of a propeller.
- Limlayt (Limelight). A unique variety that was bred by Dutch experts. Conical inflorescences up to 25 cm long lemon-colored. An interesting fact is that in the shade the inflorescences are lemon-colored, and those planted in the sunny side of the plot are white.
- Bobo (BoBo). This variety is dwarf, 50-70 cm in height. The flowers are usually white, but the color can eventually change to lemon white, and later even pink.
Paniculata hydrangea in landscape design - design styles
Landscape design with hydrangeas will give the site a sophisticated look. The shrub is beautiful in a single planting, even if planted alone in the middle of the plot. No less beautiful when planted in a group, for example, in the form of a hedge. If you decide to divide the territory into zones, you can safely use a flowering shrub. Hydrangea will fulfill its function, forming a hedge or fence impenetrable to prying eyes. The plant, with careful pruning, takes on the intended shape and size. The decor of a garden or summer cottage with hydrangea creates an atmosphere of comfort and romance. Flowering compositions of hydrangeas near the gazebo, ponds, natural or artificial, have a relaxing and pacifying effect. The landscape becomes colorful from the bright flowering of the shrub when it is reflected in artificial or natural reservoirs. When flowering stops, unusual leaves adorn the water reflection.
Hydrangea at home Japanese garden
Hydrangeas in landscape design are used to decorate the garden in different styles. When creating a Japanese garden, we use plants of all kinds that grow in our area. Perhaps the location of a plant of one variety in tiny islands. Fan maple, pine, nivaki, ferns - all these plants are used in the design of the garden in the Japanese style. Looks great in a duet with hydrangea rhododendron.
Hydrangea in Japan white garden
For the white garden, tree-like and large-leaved shrubs with flowers of snow-white or white-lemon color are used. Panicled hydrangeas should be chosen with inflorescences unchanged during flowering. Paniculate white flowers look festive with white roses.
moon garden mediterranean
Mediterranean-style gardens of modern construction use classic forms of stone, wood, metal and glass. In such a garden, a hydrangea planted in ceramic vases or soil along the perimeter of the terrace will be a decoration. By choosing flowers in beige or terracotta, add charm to the strict lines of buildings. The style is complemented by gravel and sandstone paths. Do not forget to decorate small ponds of a traditional form with hydrangeas.
mediterranean style East Garden
This style of decoration is applied to a small area with a flat surface. Hydrangea variety Vanilla Fraze in this style is an indispensable assistant. Create patterns from flowers of this variety. Add different shaped paths between the bushes.
English style
To design a garden in the style of a monochrome English flower garden, you need to opt for plants with flowers of the same shade, which will not change its color during flowering. Adhering to the style arrangement, one plant is planted closer to the center of the site, while the others are placed at the same distance from each other.
English style The garden in the traditional English style differs from the monochromatic one in the abundance of colors, flowers, lawns, hedges and, of course, the unchanging ivy that twines the facade of the house. In order to create a flower garden that matches the English style, geraniums and other ornamental plants are planted in a flower bed. The completion of the composition will be a voluminous hydrangea bush.
Russian style
Yes, there is such a style in the design of the garden plot. It combines hydrangea with Russian birch, proud maple, weeping willow, delicate lilac. The aesthetic charm of such a composition is given by the variety of crown shapes, colors and sizes of plants.
The use of hydrangea in landscape design is limitless! And, no matter how fashion and styles change, hydrangea will decorate your site!
Under natural conditions, this plant is very common in rare forests and edges of China, Japan and southern Sakhalin. Hydrangea paniculata is a small tree that looks like a large shrub with a dense crown. The leaves are elongated, especially on the underside and along the veins, rather large - about 12 centimeters long, oval in shape. Hydrangea blooms in small - up to 3 centimeters in diameter with white flowers, which eventually turn into fruits. The fruit is small, up to 3 mm. boxes, by the time of ripening - approximately by the month of October, crack at its top and scatter the smallest seeds.
In addition to its decorative effect, panicle hydrangea - hydrangea paniculata is described as a good honey plant and throughout the flowering period, from mid-summer to mid-autumn, it supplies bees with high-quality raw materials. Such honey plants are collected in large paniculate inflorescences, reaching a third of a meter in length.
Hydrangea flowers are very interesting for their changing color. As they develop, they turn from creamy to snow-white, and then gradually acquire a pink hue, which, towards the end of flowering, closer to autumn, gradually turns into red-green.
Almost all hydrangeas have similar growing requirements. There are differences only in frost resistance and demanding lighting, but only to a small extent. Consider below the general rules for caring for hydrangeas, common to all varieties.
Landing
The most acceptable results are obtained when planting hydrangeas in the spring. You can plant a plant in the autumn, but in winter frosts it will be more difficult for it to take root, and besides, you will have to take care of reliable warming of autumn seedlings. At the same time, by planting a tree in the spring, during a warm, sunny period, you give the hydrangea a chance for the most comfortable rooting, and this ultimately guarantees that the tree will grow healthy and will fully bloom, and most likely already this season.
What you need to know to choose the right site
Like most ornamental trees, hydrangea loves when there is a lot of light and little wind, especially she does not like through and cold winds. These are the most significant factors to consider when growing it.
Most hydrangeas, including hydrangea paniculata, grow quite tolerably in partial shade and even in shaded areas, but you need to understand that under these conditions, its development will not be quite full, and flowering is not so plentiful and more faded. Therefore, if possible, you need to grow them in areas of light, not shaded by the crowns of large trees.
It is also worth considering that this plant requires sufficiently nutritious soil, which excludes its planting on poor soils - sandy. They will have to be prepared before planting and subsequently, carry out regular feeding, especially in spring and autumn.
First of all, on the selected site you need to prepare a landing hole. Its size should correspond to the size of the root system of the seedling. Since the hydrangea is a rather large shrub, the size of the hole should not be less than 60 centimeters in diameter and about the same depth, but it is better to make it bigger - this will allow you to put more fertilized soil into it, which means to provide the plant with nutrients for longer. The optimal size is 80/70 centimeters.
In a dug hole, depending on its size, pour 20 - 30 liters of water and wait until it is well absorbed - until the next morning. The shaken hole is filled with prepared soil, the approximate composition of which is a mixture of horse and sod land, humus, peat and sand in proportions - 2/1/2/1. All this must be fertilized with organic matter and mineral compounds. Must be present - urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate. It is desirable that the soil is slightly acidified. This can be achieved by adding pine or spruce needles to the mixture. But, as for lime, it should not be at all - hydrangea reacts extremely negatively to it. Lime is guaranteed to lead to diseases, and if its concentration is significant, then to the death of the plant.
The next step is planting a seedling. Before planting it, you need to carry out its correct pruning. It is made depending on the type of hydrangea. If it grows in the form of a tree, its roots must be shortened, and on the aerial part, all annuals are needed so that no more than 4 - 5 points of growth remain on them. If this plant has a bushy crown, the seedling cannot be cut, since all its flower-forming buds grow at the end of the shoots - they should absolutely not be touched.
The prepared seedling is planted and sprinkled with soil, and then gradually rammed. First, they ram the hole from the outer perimeter, and then gradually move to the trunk. At the same time, it is worth making sure that the basal neck is not below the soil level. If this happens, the seedling must be taken out and transplanted again, since the deepening of the neck will almost certainly lead to the death of the seedling - its trunk will rot and the plant will disappear. This procedure is preferably carried out in spring or autumn.
As already mentioned, hydrangeas need to be grown on acidic soils, so after planting and watering the seedling, it is worth mulching the soil with humus, acidic peat or needles. In addition to increasing acidity, such ukrov will prevent premature evaporation of moisture and help the seedling to quickly adapt to new conditions. In addition to mulching, a young hydrangea requires reliable protection from winds and drafts, as well as from the scorching sun. At first, it is very desirable that the light be diffused.
Hdrangea paniculata, like its other varieties, is completely unpretentious and grows quite tolerably even without much care for it, but if you want to see the fullness of its decorative effect, you will have to provide the plant with proper care. It will be discussed below.
Watering
All hydrangeas, regardless of variety, love moisture, so they require regular moisture, and quite significant. An adult plant requires weekly watering - at least three buckets per square meter of soil around the plant. Regular watering is especially important if the bush grows in an open, sunny place and on hot summer days. The plant does not impose special requirements on the quality of water, but it will be nice, for preventive purposes, sometimes add a little potassium permanganate to it - so that the solution is slightly pink. This will be a good prevention of root fungus and root rot.
The regularity of watering is of particular importance on very light - sandy soils, which evaporate moisture very easily. In this situation, it is worth monitoring the humidity very carefully - it is undesirable to allow drying out. Competent mulching retains moisture very well, therefore, after each watering, cover the soil around the trunk with sawdust or dry peat, but only so that it can breathe, otherwise it may rot and rot.
As for overflow, most varieties of hydrangeas are not very sensitive to them. An exception, perhaps, is paniculate hydrangeas, but they tolerate temporary drought better than others.
Lighting
All hydrangeas love a lot of natural light, and paniculate hydrangea is the most light-loving - it prefers bright sunlight, but subject to sufficient humidity. If the air is dry, it will be better to provide at least a small scattering of sunlight, otherwise the foliage loses some of its decorative effect.
Optimum temperature
It all depends on the type of plant. So, for example, a tree-like hydrangea easily freezes in winter if it is not insulated, but quickly recovers with the onset of heat. True, some of the branches will have to be cut, which spoils the crown. But paniculate hydrangea is quite frost-resistant - it easily tolerates frosts down to minus 40 and does not require crown insulation at all. But still, it will be better to insulate the root system, because if the winter is snowless, the plant may freeze slightly and will not bloom in due time.
The most vulnerable to frost, hydrangea varieties are serrated and large-leaved. They require warming not only of the roots, but of the entire crown, otherwise the buds from which the flowers develop are guaranteed to freeze and die, and the plant itself recovers for a long time and may not bloom from one to three years.
soil quality requirements
The approximate composition of the soil has already been described in the previous chapter - panicled hydrangea - planting. Now let's take a look at some of the features.
Soil acidity is of great importance, because when it is insufficient, chlorosis often occurs and develops - the leaves turn pale and then turn yellow.
When feeding, it is advisable not to use nitrogen fertilizers, especially before wintering - nitrogen significantly reduces the winter hardiness of all varieties of hydrangeas. On the contrary, potassium compounds increase it, and in addition cause more abundant flowering.
Do not add wood ash flour to the soil - it lowers its acidity, which means it is harmful to the plant.
The concentration of certain elements in the soil leads to a significant change in the color of flowers. Thus, an increase in substances rich in iron and aluminum leads to an increase in the acidity of the soil and the coloring of flowers in blue tones, and with a neutral and alkaline composition, hydrangea blooms in warm tones - pink and red.
Fertilizer
Like all large plants for normal development, hydrangeas need nutrients. Therefore, you need to regularly apply fertilizers - both organic and mineral compositions:
- Liquid manure is well suited from organic matter, but you should not get carried away, otherwise the plant will begin to increase its mass immoderately, and the inflorescences will become heavy and unbearable for flower stalks - they will break off under their own weight;
- It is advisable to use special minerals - for hydrangeas, and in a strict dosage indicated by the manufacturer;
- To improve flowering and its abundance, it is worth adding about 25 grams of urea, 35 superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate dissolved in water under each bush.
Such top dressing is carried out four times during the warm season - from March to August inclusive. The first time you need to feed the hydrangea in early spring, introducing organic compounds. It will allow you to quickly increase the green mass.
The second is needed for the development of emerging flower buds. At this time, you need to add superphosphate and urea.
At the time of flowering, in order to prolong it as much as possible, the plant requires top dressing with mineral complexes. The last top dressing is done with store-bought hydrangea formulations. It is carried out in the fall before preparing the bush for wintering.
Crown care and shaping its shape
The best time for such care is the end of March, the beginning of April. Young hydrangeas leave no more than 10 shoots. The healthiest and strongest ones are chosen, cut off so that 4 - 5 points of growth remain on them. The rest of the shoots are cut at the root. If they are not cut off, they will only take strength from the bush and slow down its growth, so you should not feel sorry for them. Even if all the shoots seem good, you need to leave no more than 10, and even 5-6 is better.
Pruning a mature bush is carried out a little differently. If it has become noticeably worse to bloom, it is advisable to cut all its shoots to a size of 5 - 10 centimeters from the root. This will heal and rejuvenate the plant - for the next season it will actively grow and give abundant flowering.
It is possible to carry out pruning in the fall, but in this case it is limited to sanitary measures - diseased and damaged parts of the bush are removed.
Preparing for the winter
Despite its frost resistance, it will be better if the plant is prepared for winter in late autumn. First of all, you need to insulate the root system, which will not be out of place in the event of a winter without snow. You can cover the roots with peat or sawdust, but rotted manure is best, which, in addition to warmth, can also feed the plant in the spring when it gets warmer.
As for crown insulation, whether to do it or not depends on the situation. An adult and frost-resistant plant will easily overwinter even without insulation, but young growth, especially for the first winter, is still better to be insulated. This should be done in late autumn, shortly before the onset of frost. For this, spruce or pine spruce branches, or garden fabric are suitable. True, in the latter case, you will have to make sure that it does not freeze, and if this happens, you will have to remove it, since it is completely airtight, and the plant needs to breathe.
If everything is done correctly, even the first-year seedlings easily endure the winter, begin to actively develop in the spring, and give the first flowers in the summer.
In contrast to the tree-like, petiolate, large-leaved, ashy and other forms, the inflorescences are elongated. They resemble fluffy panicles, which is why the species got its name. According to the description, the panicled hydrangea can only be compared with the oak-leaved variety, but, of course, the heroine of this material wins in terms of brightness, density and duration of flowering.
Shrubs most loved by gardeners: hydrangea paniculata, mock orange, lilac. Each shrub is good in its own way. But the hydrangea is still in the lead with this trio. Firstly, she is a real champion in the duration of flowering. Secondly, it grows and blooms without problems in partial shade, where lilac and mock orange will wither. Thirdly, her hats decorate the garden just when almost everything has already faded, and only dahlias are anxiously waiting for the end of the holiday - the first autumn frost.
Recently, new varieties of paniculate hydrangeas appear literally every year. It is difficult even for specialists to understand this flow. There is nowhere to look at all the forms "live", and even more so at the new items, even abroad. It is expected that a collection of the best varieties of paniculate hydrangeas will soon appear in the Botanical Garden on Mira Avenue.
A photo of an adult paniculate hydrangea with a detailed description is a rarity; nurseries do not indulge buyers with such gifts. So you have to collect information bit by bit. And, of course, at your own peril and risk, experiment yourself.
Selection of hydrangea paniculata
Previously, everything was simple with panicled hydrangea - in Russian noble estates and later in summer cottages, a single variety grew - ‘Grandiflora’. It was brought to Europe from Japan in 1829 by the German doctor Philipp Franz Balthasar von Siebold, who worked for several years on the islands in the Nagasaki region. Another old variety, ‘Floribunda’, which, thanks to Karl Maksimovich, came to St. Petersburg from a Japanese nursery in 1860, has not received such wide distribution in our country. A little later, two more cultivars became known in Europe - ‘Rgaesokh’ and ‘Kyushu’.
Their origin was the same - Japanese.
The situation changed in the fifties, the prologue of the century, when two enthusiasts took up the selection of paniculate hydrangeas - Robert and Elena de Belder (Jelena and Robert de Beider). It is to them that flower growers owe their appearance! such masterpieces as ‘Unique’, ‘Brussels Lace’ and ‘Pink Diamond’.
Breeders in Europe and the USA are still working with the legacy of de Belder. So, for example, using plants from their arboretum, in the 1970s and 80s. Dutchman Peter Zwijnenburg gave the world such beautiful varieties of paniculate hydrangeas as ‘ Phantom' , 'Limelight' and 'Silver Dollar'. The first cultivar became famous for the largest size of inflorescences to date, the second - for unusual, lemon-green sterile flowers, the third - for the spectacular appearance of the bush: large pyramidal inflorescences and strong, vertical shoots.
The best varieties of panicled hydrangea for the Moscow region: photo and description
'Brussels Lace'
The height of the bush is 2 m. The inflorescence is up to 30 cm long, conical in shape, the flowers are fertile and sterile. White, later turning pink. Blooms until October.
‘Grandiflora’
The height of the bush is 2-3 m. The inflorescence is a wide cone, 20-30 cm long. The flowers of this variety of panicled hydrangea, suitable for the Moscow region, are sterile, creamy white, then pink. Blooms until October.
‘Great Star’ (‘Le Vasterival’)
The height of the bush is 2 m. The inflorescence is round, with a diameter of 15 cm. Among the fertile flowers are sterile, very large, white, in the form of a "propeller". Blooms until September.
‘Dart’s Little Dot’ (‘Darlibo’)
The height of the bush is 0.8-1 m. The inflorescence is spherical, 15 cm in diameter, the flowers are white, sterile and fertile. Blooms until October.
‘Kyushu’
Bush height 3 m. Narrow-conical, loose inflorescence, 20-35 cm long, white flowers, sterile and fertile. Blooms until mid-August.
'Limelight'
The height of the bush is 2.3 m. The inflorescence is wide-conical, 30 cm long, the flowers are sterile, light green, then white. This one of the best varieties of paniculate hydrangeas for the Moscow region blooms until the beginning of October.
‘Mega Mindy’ (‘Ilvomindi’)
The height of the bush is 1.8 m. The inflorescence is conical, up to 30 cm long. Most of the flowers are sterile. The color is white, then red-pink. Blooms until August.
'Pinky Winky'
The height of the bush is 1.6 m. As you can see in the photo, this paniculate hydrangea has a conical inflorescence, 20 cm long:
The flowers are sterile, white, then deep pink. Continues to bloom in October.
'Pink Diamond'
The height of the bush is 2-3 m. The inflorescence is cone-shaped, up to 30 cm long. The flowers are sterile and fertile, white, then pink. Continues to bloom in October.
'Phantom'
The height of the bush is 2 m. Look at the photo - this variety of paniculate hydrangea has the largest inflorescence, conical-round, 30 cm long:
The flowers are sterile, white, then light pink. Blooms until October. Reminds me of ‘Grandiflora’.
‘Floribunda’
The height of the bush is 2 m. The inflorescence is wide-conical, up to 40 cm long. The flowers are sterile and fertile, white. Blooms until October.
'Vanille Fraise' ('Renhy')
The height of the bush is 1.8 m. The inflorescence is wide-eyed, 30 cm long, the flowers are small, sterile, pale pink. This panicled hydrangea, recommended for the Moscow region, continues to bloom in October.
'Silver Dollar'
The height of the bush is 1.7-4 m. The inflorescence is conical-round, up to 25 cm. The flowers are sterile, creamy white, then pink. It also blooms in October.
‘Tardiva’
The height of the bush is 1.3-3 m. The inflorescence is conical, 25 cm long. The flowers are sterile and fertile, white. It also blooms in October.
‘Unique’
The height of the bush is 2-3 m. The inflorescence is a wide cone, 25 cm long. One third of the flowers are small fertile, the rest are sterile, white, then intense red. In the garden, this paniculate hydrangea blooms until September.
If you dig around the Internet, look into all kinds of forums, it becomes clear that 'Limelight' is in the lead in this list. It is followed by 'Vanille Fraise' ('Renhy') and 'Phantom', and perhaps even 'Grandiflora' n'Kyushu'.
When describing the varieties of the best paniculate hydrangeas, one should not forget about especially fragrant forms. In theory, all hydrangeas, which have many fertile flowers, can be classified as fragrant. However, the aroma of varieties is different and not always pleasant. It is good that at a distance, as a rule, it is not audible.
However, there are varieties, as the advantages of which the aroma is mentioned in the first place!
For example, hydrangeas smell like honey Wim's Red' And ' Big Ben’.
Admire the photo of the best varieties of paniculate hydrangeas for the Moscow region in these photos:
Varieties of panicled hydrangeas-winners AGM: photos and names
Over the past twenty or thirty years, so many varieties of panicled hydrangea have appeared that flower growers have come close to the problem of choice.
Most Russian flower growers solve the problem simply by buying all the new items in a row. But foreigners have already become thoughtful. They have much more varieties for sale, and gardens are smaller in area. In 2008, the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) of England released a bulletin dedicated to panicle hydrangea.
The goal is to introduce hobbyists to 47 of the best cultivars, especially those awarded with the Garden Merit Award - AGM ( “Award of Garden Merit” ).
New and old cultivars were evaluated in terms of cultivar availability to buyers, relative ease of cultivation, suitability for use in garden design, as well as bud and flower appearance, bud shape and shade stability, foliage ornamentality, shoot color, disease and pest resistance.
The winning varieties are: 'Big Ben' (2008), ‘Floribunda’ (1993), ‘Grandiflora’ (1993), ‘Kyushu’ (1993), 'Limelight' (2008), 'Phantom' (2008), 'Pink Diamond' (1993), 'Pinky Winki' (2008), 'Silver Dollar' (2008), ‘Unique’ (1993).
The closest candidates for the award are varieties:
‘Dolly’
'Pink Lady'
One circumstance prevents them from overcoming the bar - according to the judges, they are not yet sufficiently accessible to a wide range of amateurs.
What is good variety 'Dolly'? Plant height is about 1.5 m. Inflorescences are conical, dense, flowering is very plentiful. Experts consider it one of the most attractive hydrangeas. ‘Pink Lady’ has an elegant conical inflorescence that blushes towards the end of summer.
By the way, ‘Pink Lady’ is the same age as ‘Dolly’, both varieties were registered in 1990.
In addition, the Royal Horticultural Society of England conducted a rating of varieties. Plants were evaluated on a three-point system. Three points are excellent, two are very good, and one is good.
- Varieties awarded three points: 'Big Ben', 'Dolly', 'Kyushu', 'Limelight', 'Phantom', 'Pink Diamond', 'Pink Lady', 'Pinki Winki', 'Silver Dollar'.
- Hydrangeas received two points: ‘Brussels Lace’, ‘Chantilly Lace’, ‘Dharuma’, ‘Last Post’, ‘Martinvast’, ‘Praecox’, ‘Skylight’, ‘Unique’, ‘Starlight Fantasy’ (‘Degustar’), ‘Vanille Fraise’.
- One point went to varieties: ‘Dart’s Little Dot’ (‘Darlibo’), ‘Greenspire’, ‘Taiwan From’, ‘Mega Pearl’, ‘Mid Late Summer’, ‘Sherwood’, ‘Vera’, ‘White Moth’.
Several varieties did not receive any positive evaluation.
Surprisingly, the beloved by the Russians turned out to be rejected ‘ white lady’.
See what the best varieties of panicled hydrangeas look like in these photos:
The most beautiful varieties of paniculate hydrangeas: photo and description of flowers
Most hydrangeas change their color from white or cream to pink and even crimson, which is especially appreciated by Russian gardeners. The most spectacular variety in this sense is ‘Diamand Rouge’. New in 2011. Awarded with a silver medal at the competition during the largest international exhibition Plantarium 2011 (Holland). By autumn, its inflorescences become red-purple, almost with a purple tint, and the leaves become rich orange.
Another interesting cultivar is ‘ Wim's Red' - in August, the inflorescences acquire a burgundy-red hue.
‘Big Ven’ - one of the most beautiful varieties of panicled hydrangeas, he was awarded the Garden Merit Award (AGM) by the Royal Horticultural Society of England. Attractive with large conical inflorescences, becoming rich dark pink by the end of flowering.
As can be seen in the photo, the variety of garden paniculate hydrangeas ‘ Mega Mindy’ (‘Ilvomindi’) dense large cone-shaped inflorescence from white gradually turns into crimson:
In search of bright shades, you should pay attention to the series Magical:
Particularly good varieties ‘ Magical Fare’, ‘Pinki Winki' And ' Magical Flame’ with purple-pink conical inflorescences. They differ in size: the first is much higher.
Do not forget the classics - the "peaks" of inflorescences 'Pinky Winki' and wide hats 'Pink Diamond' And 'Magical Flame' .
What if you still want white? So that pearly clouds of hydrangeas soar in the coming autumn twilight?!
In this case, you can advise the variety ‘ white diamond '. This is a small rounded shrub, 1.3 m high. Its inflorescences remain white until late autumn.
Dwarf bushes of panicled hydrangeas
And what about those who have a really small garden or simply do not have room for a large bush? Look for baby hydrangeas. By the way, such varieties of dwarf panicled hydrangeas are useful for a low hedge, and even for a border. They will look good in a small mixborder. By the way, reducing the size of the bush is one of the modern trends in the selection of hydrangeas.
The "highest" of the babies, 1.2 m -‘ Sandae Fraise’ (‘Rensan’) . Similar to Vanille Fraise. The variety received a silver medal at the Plantarium 2010 competition (Holland).
Same height 'Dharuma'- slow growing shrub. Differs in very early and incredibly plentiful blossoming.
Even lower dwarf 'Bombshell' , only 1 m high, with a dense spherical crown.
Look at the photo - the flowers of this paniculate hydrangea are numerous, dense, almost round:
Recently appeared variety ‘ Little lime' - a relative of the beauty ' Limelight’. The bush is good, a mini-copy of "mom". Height up to 1 m.
Quite a little - variety ‘Bobo’(‘Ilvobo’) . Plant height - 60-70 cm. The bush is compact, the inflorescences are huge, dense, quickly turn pink. Shoots are vertical. For smaller gardens, it can also be grown in containers on balconies and terraces. In 2010, the variety received a gold medal at the FLORALL exhibition (Belgium).
Below are photos and descriptions of new varieties of paniculate hydrangeas.
New varieties of garden panicle hydrangeas
'Levana'
Height 3 m and even more. Effective foliage. Inflorescences narrow, large, up to 50 cm tall. Shoots are powerful.
‘Magical Moonlight’(‘Kolmagino’)
Translated into Russian, the name of the variety sounds like "Magic Moonlight". One of the most beautiful panicled hydrangeas. Height 2-2.5 m. Rigid shoots. Dense "stuffed" elongated white-green inflorescences. An improved version of 'Limelight'. In a sunny place in a continental climate, the flowers turn white quickly.
'Big Ben'
Plant height 1.8 m. The shoots are bright red, the inflorescences are large, conical. Differs in plentiful blossoming and strong aroma. By autumn, the flowers of this paniculate hydrangea become dark pink in color.
'Polar Bear'
Obtained by crossing two varieties: ‘Limelight’ And ‘Grandiflora’ . Height up to 1.5-2 m. The main feature of this variety is very dense conical inflorescences up to 40 cm high on hard, strong stems. The flowers are immediately slightly pistachio, then white and cream, by the end of summer they have a soft pink hue. The inflorescences of this new panicled hydrangea variety are distributed evenly throughout the bush, giving the impression of a huge flowering bouquet. Flowering from July to late autumn.
'Diamond Rouge'
New in 2011. Awarded a silver medal at the Plantarium 2011 competition (Holland). The bush is dense, compact. The autumn shade of inflorescences and leaves is unique. Inflorescences by autumn become red-purple, almost with a purple tint, and the leaves are rich orange.
'Candlelight'
In 2013, the hydrangea paniculata Candlelight was awarded a silver medal at Plantrium. Shoots are vertical, strong, beautiful dark red color. Panicles of inflorescences - yellow-lemon, by the summer - pastel, creamy-white-yellow, large up to 20 cm, pointed. Abundant flowering of this new paniculate hydrangea begins quite early and lasts from mid-June to late August - early September. Shrub of medium height 100-120 cm, with pronounced vertical growth.
'Fire Light'
This 2015 variety is the new standard for judging the merit of all panicled hydrangeas. Upright, strong buds turn from pure white to rich garnet pink very quickly. Thick, very strong stems hold heavy buds upright with no problem. Very early flowering: from the beginning of summer. Flowers turn deep garnet red before other varieties start to bloom. High winter hardiness. The height of the bush is 1.5 - 1.7 m.
'Shikoku Flash'
An amateur variety. This curiosity is grown for the original foliage. Green leaves at the beginning of the growing season are covered with cream and white strokes and specks. In July, the leaves become chartreuse. How abundant flowering is still unknown. The variety appeared in our country relatively recently.
'Angel Blush'
A new hardy variety, height 2.5-3 m. Shoots are strong, numerous, large inflorescences up to 25 cm, blush early. In 2011, the variety received an award at the FLORALL exhibition.
Here you can see photos of varieties of paniculate hydrangeas, the names of which are given on this page:
Fans of hydrangeas are sometimes in for an unpleasant discovery. The plant, obtained by hook or by crook, finally blooms, but the inflorescence does not match either the description of the variety or its photograph on the Internet. How not to get upset!
Do not rush to accuse everyone in the world of fraud and throw the "intruder" out of the garden. Most likely, your plant is simply not mature enough. For many hydrangeas, varietal characteristics may not appear immediately, for this sometimes several years must pass. By the way, this feature is characteristic of the classic variety ‘Grandiflora’. ‘Limelight’ can also be capricious. This beauty needs special lighting, diffused light. By planting a shrub in full sun, you may never get lime color at all. The same can happen when landing in dense partial shade.
Of course, re-grading cannot be ruled out. But even in this case, take a closer look at your purchase. In the end, what is more important for you: a label or a beautiful plant?!
The next section of the article is devoted to how to care for paniculate hydrangeas in the garden.
How to care for paniculate hydrangea in the country (with photo)
Caring for panicled hydrangea in the open field is not at all difficult, because this shrub is simply “not killed”. Grows everywhere except swamps and clean sand. True, he does not really like alkaline soils, but in central Russia they still need to be looked for.
A baby hydrangea, like a kitten, can be caressed, just killed with your attention and care. For example, dragging around the site in search of the most suitable place. Or, in the process of growing a paniculata hydrangea, you can feed it so that it simply cannot stand the winter. Hydrangea can be trivially poured; this plant, despite the name, which is translated from ancient Greek as “a vessel with water”, simply cannot withstand frequent watering on clay soil. Do not use long-acting imported fertilizers. They are undoubtedly good, but are designed for a longer growing season, and can prevent the plant from preparing for dormancy in time.
Of course, it is possible to feed the paniculate hydrangea when leaving in the garden, but it is better not to simply rake last year's foliage under the plant and mulch the bush with pine needles.
Should I loosen the soil under panicled hydrangeas? Better not worth it. You can, of course, three centimeters deep, but why? The root system of the hydrangea is superficial, only inadvertently damage the roots. But the mulch of this beauty will only be useful. And no weeds.
The photo of panicle hydrangea care shows all the main agricultural practices:
How to grow panicled hydrangea: bush formation
It is better to spend 2-4 years on the formation than to try to give the plant a decent look every year.
But everything is simple. In the year of planting, you should not cut the plant at all - leave it alone, let it take root and acclimatize in a new place. A year after planting, before the start of the growing season, take a closer look at your new product and decide what you will do with it. What you need and more interesting is to form a plant on a trunk or in the form of a bush. It is necessary to cut the hydrangea-bush while it is young, according to the same principle by which the hydrangea-"tree" is formed.
The difference is that for a "tree" you are looking for a single and strictly vertical shoot, which will eventually turn into a trunk, and for a hydrangea-bush, you need 3 to 5 shoots growing at an angle of about 30 degrees to the vertical.
Everything else (root shoots, except for future “legs”, of course, side shoots formed on these “legs” should be cut off during the first few years. Only 2-3 upper buds are left on the shoots you originally selected each spring. In order to keep the leaders straight in a given direction, you can drive in bamboo sticks at the right angle, and attach future “legs” to them in several places.When the leaders become powerful and hardened enough to withstand any snow and downpour with gusts of wind, they are cut at a height 1.0-1.2 m. Then the bush can grow as you like: in width, in height, in the form of a ball, pyramid or fungus on several legs.
In addition to the bush and tree, there is also a third, intermediate form, the fountain or vase, when you leave some basal shoots that diverge at an angle of 45 or more degrees vertically.
At the fountain, you can save the central shoot. The idea behind shaping is that you want to raise the natural annual growth so that the buds don't lie on the ground. In addition, you achieve clear contours of a bush that blooms annually in large or evenly sized inflorescences. Even after the end of the formation, the bush will continue to give fresh root shoots for some time, which will need to be removed in the spring.
If the small size of the garden or the desire to have many different varieties of paniculate hydrangea does not allow you to allocate enough space for each bush, you can form a hydrangea with a small bush. To do this, in the second year after planting (when planting in the fall - in the third year) in the spring, before the start of the growing season, make a low pruning, leaving 2 buds from the ground. This stimulates the formation of a large number of new shoots growing from the ground itself. During the season, remove all weak shoots, as well as shoots growing inside the bush.
You can leave 6-12 skeletal shoots on the plant. In the future, every spring, cut the branches by one third. In addition to the fact that with this method of plant formation you will have a compact bush shape, the inflorescences will be much larger.
To form a paniculate hydrangea "tree", choose one strong shoot, directed vertically.
Cut out the rest of the shoots. Pinch off the side shoots coming from the main trunk. At a height of 0.5-1 meter, select several (3-4) strong side shoots directed in different directions, in the form of a bowl. You can start pruning skeletal shoots for more lush flowering when the tree reaches the desired shape.
Below you will learn how to form a paniculate hydrangea on a trunk.
How to form a paniculate hydrangea on a trunk
Panicled hydrangea on a trunk is a good replacement for a rose, which requires too much trouble from the owners and free space on which the plant will need to be laid before frost. Instances with luxurious caps of inflorescences can be found in garden centers, but they are, unfortunately, not cheap. It is possible and even better to grow hydrangea on a trunk yourself. Among the rooted cuttings, the strongest and tallest are chosen and grown for 3-4 years.
The main thing when leaving during the cultivation of hydrangeas on a trunk is to correctly choose the height. Low - does not make sense, you get a bush on some strange leg. Tall (a meter and a half or even a little more) looks beautiful, but the crown of a hydrangea can freeze or break under an unfortunate set of circumstances.
Probably the best option is about a meter or a little more. Of course, the variety chosen for such a purpose must have powerful branches.
So, to form a paniculate hydrangea on a stem at a height of 1 m or a little more, the stem is cut off, and skeletal branches are allowed to develop from 4-5 buds located below. It is necessary to cut the crown of the standard hydrangea carefully, rather gentle pruning is required here. Otherwise, heavy inflorescences will break off.
The following describes how to properly prune a paniculate hydrangea when grown in a personal plot.
How to prune paniculate hydrangea in spring
How to prune paniculate hydrangea is perhaps the most painful topic for lovers of these plants. You can discuss it for hours. The main questions are: when to cut and how many buds to leave so that the plant “give out” worthy exhibitions of inflorescence caps.
Before the first snow, so that the bush does not break, the largest inflorescences are cut off. To prune the paniculate hydrangea in the spring, as I advise an experienced gardener, you need to wait until it becomes clear which buds are alive, because it is important not to disturb the plant once again. Cut off all the dried and thinnest. You can shorten a branch that is too long or ugly.
- First option- strong pruning (leave two buds);
- Second- moderate (leave 4 buds),
- Third- weak (remove old inflorescences, the so-called "decapitation").
In the first case, the plants bloom very late, forming huge caps. But such pruning is not suitable for all varieties, sometimes the branches do not withstand, and the plant lies down.
With moderate pruning, you will expect an average flowering time and an average size of inflorescences. With a weak - early flowering, but the inflorescences are small, however, numerous. It is curious that the pruning method practically does not affect the appearance and size of the inflorescences of the ‘Big Ben’ and ‘Brussels Lace’ varieties.
'Vanille Fraise' and 'Limelight' require a medium, gentle finish. But the ‘Pinki Winki’ variety needs serious pruning. The conclusion is simple: some varieties of panicled hydrangea require an individual approach during care when grown in the garden. And, of course, do not forget that with strong pruning in our climate, flowering can not be expected at all. Or get such a huge one, as, for example, the 'Phantom' variety can give out, that the bush will simply break from heavy rains.
Watch the video of paniculate hydrangea pruning for a better understanding of how to shape the plant:
Paniculata hydrangea in landscape design: what to plant next to the bushes
In fact, hydrangeas are self-sufficient plants. Hydrangea petiolate and large-leaved hydrangeas do not especially need partners. The perfect combination for any garden is Bredschneider hydrangea, mock orange and lilac. Here, as they say, nothing to subtract, nothing to add.
But you can “play” with tree and paniculate hydrangeas. The ideal background for paniculate hydrangea in landscape design is conifers and barberries, vesicles with purple foliage, Bredschneider's hydrangea. Another win-win option is a mixborder of hydrangeas and rhododendrons, especially evergreens.
A combination of panicled hydrangeas with thujas, mock oranges, white turf 'Variegata', 'Elegantissima', with snowberry, with Volzhanka, saplings, perennial asters, large ferns, with phloxes of pink shades, variegated phloxes of the 'Nora Leigh' type, hosts of white-edged varieties.
Shown in the photo, next to panicled hydrangeas in the country, you can plant plants with blue needles, bluish leaves or blue flowers:
It can be Carmichel's aconite, clematis, hostas, cereals, Buenosaires verbena, blue junipers.
But yellow, orange, and even more so red plants are categorically contraindicated for hydrangeas. Can you imagine 'Limelight' hydrangea next to 'golden balls' or powerful red dahlias?!
What else can be planted next to panicled hydrangeas in the backyard? You can surround these plants with borders of low coniferous plants, spirea, prominent stonecrops and even autumn colchicum. Or plant the hydrangeas themselves as a border, of course, some undersized variety. Just not ‘Bobo’, it will look too heavy, concentrate on itself, and after a heavy rain, large inflorescences, located, in my opinion, too close to the ground, will also turn out to be dirty. By the way, this variety has another drawback - fragile twigs. Therefore, before the first snowfall, the inflorescences will need to be cut off.
Hydrangea paniculata
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Synonyms: Hydrangea kamienskii H. Lév., Hydrangea sachalinensis H. Lév., Hydrangea schindleri Engl., Hydrangea verticillata W.H. Gao.
(Hydrangea paniculata) - a species of shrubs from the genus Hydrangea (Hydrangea) of the Hydrangeaceae family (Hydrangeaceae). Japan, South and East China, South Sakhalin are considered to be the homeland. It grows on the edges, in sparse oak forests. Mesotroph, eutroph, light-loving mesophyte, mesotherm, undergrowth assectator. In culture since 1861. Lives up to 60 years.
It is a deciduous shrub or small tree, reaching 2-3 m in height, grows up to 4-9 m in the area. It grows quickly. The crown is dense, spreading, rounded. Shoots pubescent, later glabrous, reddish-brown, rather brittle. The bark is rough, brown, exfoliating. The root system does not lie deep, the roots mainly grow in width, so their border significantly exceeds the crown border.
Leaves opposite, on well-developed plants in whorls of 3, ovoid or elliptical in shape, 7.5-15 cm in length, pointed, with a thin, pointed, attenuated apex, with a broadly wedge-shaped, less often rounded base, with an acute or coarsely serrated edge , densely green above, almost glabrous or sparsely bristly and grayish green below, bristly along the veins.
Flowers- Panicles of conical or broad pyramidal shape, somewhat inclined or erect, 15-30 (45) cm long and up to 18 cm wide, with pubescent axes. Sterile flowers white, later purple, more or less numerous, 2.5-3.5 cm in diameter, with 3-5 obovate or oval petals, remain on the plant until late autumn. Fertile flowers are small, numerous, yellowish-white, petals are rapidly falling. Columns 2-3, semi-upper ovary, stamens 10. Blossoms in July-September. Honey plant. The first flowering can be observed for 2-3 years. The number of inflorescences increases with growth: at 5 years - 30 inflorescences, 6 - 60 inflorescences, 13 years - 357 inflorescences.
Fruit- ovoid capsules, 4-5 mm in length. Seeds 3-4 mm long, with a sail appendage at the apex. Ripen in October.
Varieties:"Mathilda" ("Mathilda"), ("Kyushu"), ("Unique"), "Brussels Lace" ("Brussels Lace"), ("Grandiflora"), "Pink Diamond" ("Pink Diamond"), " Presox" ("Rgaesoh"), "Floribunda" ("Floribunda"), Tardiva" ("Tardiva").
Frost resistance zone: 4 (-25°C). Blossoms and bears fruit in the southern part of Ukraine, (Odessa, Lvov, Crimea).
Location: prefers partial shade, in open places growth slows down and inflorescences become smaller. smoke. - and gas resistant
The soil: grows well and blooms profusely in fertile soils. Prefers clay structural soil, can grow on red soils, but does not like sandy soils. Flower color becomes brighter in acidic soil and becomes paler in neutral soil. Does not tolerate ash, lime, chalk and other deoxidizers. Needs moist soil.
Landing: It is recommended to plant in a permanent place at the age of 4-5 years. For planting, they dig a hole 35-40 cm deep and 50 x 70 cm wide. For a free hedge, they dig a meter strip. The recommended distance between plants is 2.5 m, but for a more beautiful hedge at an earlier age, the distance between plants is made 0.7-1 m, and later transplanted. In the northern regions, it is recommended to plant in the spring, in the southern - in the spring or autumn. When planting, the roots are shortened, and if in the spring, then annual shoots, while leaving 3-4 pairs of buds. When planting in neutral soil, it is recommended to add coniferous soil (pine or spruce semi-rotted litter), brown peat or sawdust. In the trunk circles, you can plant a mossy saxifrage or. After planting, the soil can be mulched with peat or compost with a layer of 5-8 cm. In autumn, it can be fed with mineral fertilizers, in spring - with a solution of urea (18-20 g per bucket), 2-3 buckets per plant.
Care: It is recommended to fertilize the plant frequently. At the beginning of the growing season, you can make green fertilizer (from young nettles), diluted at times. Consumption - 1 bucket per 2-meter plant, followed by watering (1 bucket of water). If the soil is dry, you must first moisten it with 1 bucket of water. Also, fermented mullein tincture is added once every 10-15 days when watering. To prepare manure, use a bucket of mullein and fill it with 3 liters of water, cover with a lid and leave for 3-4 days. For use, dilute 1 liter of infusion in a bucket of water. During the budding period, you can apply a full mineral fertilizer and re-fertilize after 15 days. If you apply too much fertilizer, then the buds can break off under their weight.
Pruning: for abundant flowering, annual pruning is carried out before the start of the growing season. The inflorescences preserved on the bushes are cut off in late autumn so that the branches do not break off under the snow in winter. In the spring, strong regular pruning is carried out, in which weak and thickening shoots are completely removed, and frozen ones - to healthy wood (they bloom in the same year). Annual shoots must be shortened, leaving 3-5 buds. When grown in a bushy form, the shoots are cut into 3 buds, with such pruning in the same year, lush flowering is observed with inflorescences up to 40 cm in length. When grown in standard form, pruning is carried out more sparingly - flowering is abundant, and inflorescences reach 25 cm in length. For old bushes, it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning, in which it is cut into perennial wood or a stump. After that, the decorativeness of the bush is restored for 2 years.
stamp form: for growing in standard form, it is necessary to choose the tallest and strongest among the rooted cuttings, which must be planted separately. All shoots, except for the "leading" (going from the base), must be pinched 1-2 times in the summer. This procedure helps to increase the trunk in diameter. After reaching the required height of the leading shoot, thickening shoots are cut out in June “on the ring”. Every year, at the beginning of the growing season, the "leader" is shortened to a well-developed bud. At a height of 1-1.5 m, a crown is laid. The stem must be cut off, and skeletal branches develop from the lower 4-5 buds.
Reproduction: Easily propagated by cuttings and layering. For propagation, shoots cut in spring can be used. From them, it is necessary to prepare cuttings with 4-5 buds, put them in a weak solution for 2 days and plant them in shkolka in loose and acidic soil to a depth of 2 buds. Landings must be shaded and regularly moistened, preventing the earth from drying out. When young leaves appear, the shading is gradually removed. The number of cuttings at 5 years old is 30 pieces, and at 15 years old - 300 pieces.
During summer cuttings, the survival rate is low, since the cutting period is very short and occurs when the shoots contain the optimal amount of moisture, and the leaves do not evaporate it too quickly. This period begins around June 10-15. It is best to cut the cuttings from the bottom of the trunks. The length of the cuttings is no more than 10 cm, without flower buds. It is recommended to pinch off the shoots with a heel with your hands, and not cut them off with pruners. If the heel exceeds 1.5 cm, it is recommended to cut it a little. After that, it must be carefully powdered with Kornevin so that the drug does not get on the bark of the cutting. The lower leaves must be removed, leaving only 3-4 upper ones, then plant the stalk in the ground, cover with a glass jar and shade. After 20-30 days, the roots begin to develop. After that, the plant can be planted with a large clod of earth in open ground. In the first year after grafting, the plant must be covered with spruce or pine spruce branches (2-3 branches per 1 plant). Starting from the second year, the bushes do not need shelter. With a good development of the root system, in the second year the plant may even bloom, but in this case, it is recommended to remove the inflorescences.
Pests: aphids (pelargonium, greenhouse, bean), greenhouse tripe, slobbering pennitsa, spider mite, green tree bug, berry bug, meadow bug, brilliant fawn leaf beetle, nettle leaf weevil, scoops (caterpillars of night butterflies), golden bronzovka, hairy deer, mosquito marsh centipede, earwig, gall nematode.
Diseases: Tracheomycosis wilt, White sclerocial rot, Gray rot, Ordinary (European) cancer, Tubercular necrosis of the bark, Powdery mildew, Phyllostic, Septoria, ring and ascochitous spot,
Usage: valuable culture for landscape gardening construction. It is used in urban plantings, parks, squares, inside blocks. Can be planted in small alleys. From the inflorescences of Grandiflora, wonderful dry bouquets are obtained.
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