How to prune currants after harvest. When and how to prune currants

Currant is the most stable and hardy fruit shrub, which is quite easy to grow in a summer cottage or garden plot. Fruiting is always plentiful, and in one place the bush can live for a very long time. To get a good harvest, it is necessary to plant currants in humus-rich soil with enough moisture, preferably in a sunny place. True, blackout is not a big hindrance.

To achieve stable moisture, a layer of mulch is needed, which also protects the roots from the cold in winter.

Important recommendation: Plant currants to such a depth that the edge of the soil coma is 5 centimeters below the level of the hole. This approach promotes the formation of new stems and reduces the negative impact of frost.

Bush or trunk

Europe is practicing with might and main the cultivation of currants on a trunk, which is grafted onto the trunk of a rooted golden currant. The standard form is obtained with a dense and compact crown, thereby requiring less space on the site than for bush berry species. But in this type of growing currants, the yield is somewhat smaller. Here you need to choose from how much space on your site. A lot of? Then plant bushes. Little space? Pay attention to the standard landing.

The most popular currant varieties

If you have not yet planted currants and want to know which varieties are best, then the following list can be of great help to you:

1. Jonkheer Van Tets is a mid-early variety with a slightly sour taste. This type of currant has received great recognition in Western Europe.
2. Rovada is a variety with sprawling redcurrant bushes. The end of July is marked by round, and sour fruits.
3. Rosalyn is a type of red currant with slightly acidic berries, which is especially loved by children.

White currant is an order of magnitude softer in contrast to red species. Everyone who loves red berries will repeat that white berries have an insipid taste.

1. Weibe Versailler is an irregularly shaped shrub with medium maturity.
2. A new variety Primus - berries with a yellowish color and long tassels. The variety does not drop flowers, and small fruits do not appear on it over time.

Under adverse weather conditions, currants can drop flowers. This is a natural problem - heat, late frosts and so on. This reaction can be stopped. To do this, it is enough to plant bushes tightly and regularly monitor soil moisture during drought (and not only).

Pruning currants - how and when to do it

The hottest question about currants among gardeners is whether it is necessary to prune the bushes in the summer. After all, every experienced summer resident probably knows that it is required to immediately cut raspberry shoots after harvesting. But what about currants?

Various thematic magazines offer a variety of options. Some authors claim that summer pruning of shrubs has a large number of advantages:

1. Improves access of sunlight to young / main shoots.
2. The development of young branches is accelerated, which are located inside the bush and have enough space for intensive growth.
3. The bush is better supplied with nutrients from the soil.
4. Photosynthesis speeds up.

You can often find the opinion that young bushes do not need to be cut, especially for those that grow poorly. Such an event will only aggravate the situation - and the bush will die.

As a rule, berries of red and white species appear on side branches that grow for two years or more. By about the fourth year, the yield is already falling. As soon as you notice a decrease in the level of fruiting - collect the berry, cut about three skeletal shoots under the root. Make sure there is no stump left. This is a kind of thinning procedure.

On the one hand, you will make room for the growth of new branches, and on the other hand, there will be more lighting for next year's fruits.

View young shoots, select the strongest. All the rest can be cut under the root. If you manage to pull them out, this is the best solution. As a result of this procedure, up to 10 shoots no older than 4 years should remain on your bush.

Once the main branches have been removed, you can move on to the side shoots. Initially, remove the branches at the level of 30-40 centimeters. Lateral branches that grow from the base of the bush are not of interest in terms of yield. Therefore, this category is also subject to removal.

All lateral branches that bear fruit should be shortened by one centimeter. In such places fruitful branches will grow next year. No need to touch the young side branches - these are fruitful branches that will prove themselves next year.

If side shoots are placed very close to each other at a distance of less than 10 cm, every second can be removed. When in doubt, keep in mind that the fewer new shoots on the branches, the more will subsequently grow from the root, which will be required to renew the crown.

Blackcurrant pruning

In the case of blackcurrant bushes, the pruning process is slightly different from working with red and white berry varieties. Black currant yields on annual shoots, which are located on the sides of the bush on branches of 2-3 years of age.

On the main branches, you can remove all weak shoots, and also every spring you need to cut the main branches above the second / third side branch. In exactly the same way as with red varieties, old branches that give a weak increase are completely subject to harvesting. This will also improve the access of sunlight to the shoots, as well as free up space for the development of young stems.

Pruning currants is the main way to increase the yield of this healthy and tasty berry. In order for the work to be performed as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to take into account the main rules, the features of performance at different times of the year.

Any gardener knows perfectly well how important it is to get a fruitful bush, replete with berries, grown by one's own efforts. Enthusiasm alone is not enough in this process, so it is worth arming yourself with specific knowledge in order to get a noticeable result.

Currant pruning is in some way reminiscent of a coniferous forest - the farther the trees are from each other, the more magnificent, beautiful and massive they are.

The freer the black or redcurrant feels, the more likely it is that its yield will increase with appropriate care.

If the properly cut material is not disposed of, then new currant bushes can be grown from it, which, with a sufficient area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, is expedient and really justified. Because of this, the question becomes more relevant - when to cut currants and how to properly comply with the entire technology of work.

When and how is it better to cut currant bushes?

To determine the time of the work, you must initially understand the purpose for which you apply such measures. It is this aspect that plays the most important role, because autumn pruning is primarily focused on increasing the yield of the bush.

The same applies to molding pruning - it is also better to do it in the fall, after the fruiting period. This allows you to make the bush not only rich in berries, but also aesthetically attractive, which for many gardeners is considered even more of a priority than the number of berries harvested.

If we are talking about eliminating dead branches, then it is best to remove them in the spring. It is during this period, when the active movement of juices has not yet begun, that dry and twisted shoots are best seen, which most likely will not bear fruit.

The correct scheme for pruning currants in this case is quite simple - it is worth removing all the clumsy or growing shoots from the ground next to the main bush. This will add strength to it and significantly increase the yield.

If you want to get more flowering bushes, then summer pruning can be done, which improves the branching of the bush and increases yield. There are also more extreme methods of growing currants (the same method of the Michurin Institute), but not all gardeners like it due to the excessive alternativeness and radical cutting of bushes at various stages of cultivation.

Winter pruning is also used in some cases. If you have the opportunity to get to the site at this time of the year, then it is advisable to trim the currant bush from late November to mid-February.

It will positively affect the plant:

1. Currants will not become infected with diseases and pests.
2. Increase resistance to negative factors.
3. After winter, the currant will actively start to grow and give a good harvest.

However, it should be borne in mind that the removal of branches in winter is used only for healthy and strong plants, while the cuts are made along frozen shoots. If you form a weak bush affected by the disease, it is unlikely to survive the cold after the stress.

The main classification of types of undercuts

Conventionally, the following main types of circumcision can be distinguished:

sanitary

Its main goal is to remove dry, frozen over the winter and other types of defective shoots that will not produce a crop.

Overly dense bushes are also thinned out so that stronger plants get more nutrients from the earth and sunlight.

In addition to pruning dry and broken parts of the currant bush, it is also necessary:

1. Remove all branches with unripened wood (they will be damaged by low temperatures with the onset of frost).
2. Cut off shoots growing far from the center of the bush or lying on the ground.
3. Remove branches that shade the center of the currant (growing towards the middle) or are intertwined.
4. Shoots infected with pests or fungal diseases are subject to pruning and subsequent burning to prevent the spread of diseases to healthy bushes.

molding

It allows you to form a certain concept of a bush, in which shoots of different ages will bear fruit equally effectively, and the appearance of the plant will become as attractive as possible.

Thus, all unnecessary branches are removed, shoots that have thickened the bush over the summer, especially on young currants, which allows you to achieve:

1. Proper development of the shrub.
2. Even with the onset of old age, currants will bear fruit.
3. The structure of the bush will contribute to the same amount of light on all branches and ventilation.
4. The plant will look aesthetically pleasing.

Rejuvenating pruning of currant bushes

Its main purpose is to remove obsolete shoots that draw juices onto themselves and at the same time do not bear fruit at all due to a more “respectful” age. They should be cut in a timely manner, because this can significantly affect the overall level of productivity.

The pruning scheme is different for black, white and red currants:

1. The bulk of blackcurrant berries are formed on shoots that are 3 years old, so all branches older than 5 years are subject to removal. To stimulate the growth of one-year branches, they are cut to 1/3 of the length, while if there are many shoots on the bush at the age of 2 years (more than 8), three-year-olds are also subject to complete pruning.
2. The fruiting period of red and white currants is longer - the largest yield is brought by branches of five and eight years of age. Thus, all shoots that have been growing for more than 8 years are cut off, and no more than 12 branches should be left on an optimally formed bush.

Topping

This is a simple removal of the tops of the shoots, which is in many ways similar to shaping pruning, but at the same time acts by analogy with anti-aging and even sanitary.

It is used only for blackcurrant, since in white and red berries form on the upper branches - the tweezing procedure can significantly reduce the future harvest.

Pinching is carried out as follows:

1. 1-2 buds are removed from the branches (from skeletal and root shoots), while the length of the cut part is about 2-5 centimeters.
2. The top, consisting of leaves and a stem, is removed.
3. For work, it is recommended to use sharp secateurs or scissors.

All these methods of improving yields are effective only in cases where they are used without fanaticism, because excessive illiterate pruning can cause fungal and other diseases that can completely destroy the currant bush.

If your own knowledge and confidence in the actions performed are not enough, then it is better to entrust such scrupulous work to specialists - it is not so expensive, but in the end the result will pleasantly surprise you.

Care after pruning

In order for all pruning measures to bring the expected effect, the bushes should be fertilized and the earth loosened, though without excessive enthusiasm, so as not to disturb the root system. This will improve the state of the bush nutrition system and increase the fruitfulness of the most developed shoots.

Since the removal of branches always means stress for the plant, the right top dressing can speed up the regeneration process of the bush (especially for adult blackcurrants). It is recommended to use complex mineral additives and organic matter (manure or compost) for this.

Without pruning, the currant bush will not be able to bear fruit with full dedication, because the main part of the berries is tied up on last year's growth of branches of four to five years of age.

Old, dried, affected by pests and interfering with the formation of new shoots, branches must be cut regularly so that new fruit-bearing ones grow to replace them. Rejuvenating a currant bush from time to time, you can get excellent yields from it for 25 years (for black) or 15 years (for red).

When is the best time to prune currants? How to form a bush? Are there any differences in the rules for pruning black and red currants? Now let's figure it out!

Blackcurrant grows in a spreading bush, consisting of many branches. The task of the gardener is to form each bush so that it represents 15-20 branches of different ages (from zero to six years). It makes no sense to leave branches older than six years in the bush: there will be no berries on them. For the correct formation of the bush, it is recommended to start pruning from the very first year of the life of the bush, that is, immediately after planting.

Pruning currant seedlings when planting

When planting a currant seedling, you will have to cut off the tops of all available shoots, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch.

You should not worry - by the end of the first year of life, a young bush will give out five or six new shoots.

Pruning currants of the second year

In the second year, young (zero) shoots are cut from the bush, leaving from three to five of the best and most powerful. These branches will become the first skeletal branches of the future bush. Do not leave shaded, feeble shoots that interfere with others.

In addition, in order to ensure the formation of a large number of side shoots in the middle of summer, young branches are shortened by pinching their tops into two buds.

This procedure helps to increase small fruit twigs (fruits) on old branches, and also stimulates the growth of new zero shoots from the underground buds of the bush.

So two birds with one stone are killed with one blow: both the crop grows and the formation of the bush goes in the right direction.

Pruning currants of the third and fourth years

Everything repeats again: from the youngest (zero) shoots, a few (3-6) of the most developed and well-located are left, and all the rest are mercilessly removed. It is especially important to cut out weak and underdeveloped shoots from the middle of the bush, which can potentially “thicken” the bush, shade fruiting branches and slow down the growth of new shoots.

At last year's branches, the tops are shortened.

On the branches of the second and third years, two to four buds are left on each branch. By this time, the currant bush takes its shape and is considered fully formed.

Pruning currants in the fifth or sixth and all subsequent years

At this stage of life, old branches appear in the currant, and the first “rejuvenating” pruning is required for the bush.

So five- or six-year-old old branches must be cut near the ground along with tops (this is the name of the shoots coming from the base of the old branch), and also remove all dry, frozen, broken, drooping and lying on the ground branches, branches that interfere with each other, diseased or affected by pests.


The rest of the trimming is done according to the knurled pattern:
- at the branches of the second, third and fourth years, each branch is shortened, leaving 2-4 buds;
- the tops of the shoots of the last year are cut off;
- from the shoots of the current year, 3-5 of the most promising are left, and all the rest are removed.

When to prune currants

Pruning of currants of all kinds is recommended annually. The best time for this event is late autumn (after the leaves fall). You can also do additional pruning in early spring (before bud break), for example, cut all frozen tops and branches broken during the winter.

Dry branches can be cut at any time of the year, as soon as you notice them.

Pinching the tops of young currant shoots is usually carried out in mid-July.

Features of pruning red and white currants

Unlike black currants, red and white currants are advised to be cut in early spring or even in summer after harvest.

The formation of the bush occurs in the same way as that of blackcurrant, with one exception: the tops of last year's growths are not pinched, and the shoots of the 2nd and 3rd years are not shortened. That is, pruning red currants consists in removing old branches (moreover, in white and red currants, branches of seven or eight years old are considered old), extra zero shoots, as well as broken, diseased and frozen branches.

Old branches, but still productive branches, can be shortened to the nearest strong lateral branch, stimulating the growth of lateral shoots and thus increasing the life of the bush and the size of the berries.

A properly formed bush of red or white currant should consist of 20-25 branches from one to eight years old.

We wish you success and great harvests!

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Benefits of pruning

We offer professional gardening services, responsibility for the result and high work efficiency. This will allow the currants not to waste energy and juices on the development of branches that will not bring a harvest with the onset of spring. In addition, leaves from cut branches can fertilize the soil under the plant.

Due to the fact that the removal of excess branches allows the remaining shoots to receive more sunlight, the quality of the crop increases - larger berries ripen, which are also richer in vitamins than those that would grow in the shade;

Pruning bushes in autumn

Experienced gardeners recommend leaving 7-8 healthy fruit-bearing branches on blackcurrants. The rest are removed in the fall. This allows you to get larger berries.

Removing unnecessary branches and pinching them allows you to form a beautiful, healthy and fruitful bush, from which it will be convenient for the gardener to harvest.

Before treating the currant with protective agents and fertilizers for the winter, it should be cut. Plants of the first three years of life are thinned out for sanitary purposes, that is, they remove diseased, very thin branches located on the ground. Older shrubs rejuvenate with pruning. To do this, old and weak shoots are removed, leaving two-year and three-year-olds (4 branches each), as well as annuals (6-7 branches).

Currant bushes, which are already about fifteen years old, should be rejuvenated. Do it gradually, over three years. In the first year, a third of all branches are cut, and to the very base. After new shoots appear, only the three strongest ones are left. The procedure is repeated the next year. The same is done for the third year. Thus, the entire hive is updated. That currant, which is already 20 years old, cannot be updated. Such bushes are uprooted and new ones are planted in their place.

5. If the branch was broken, then it will no longer be fruitful, and it should be removed, leaving a 3 cm stump.

Old shoots that are up to 7 years old can be shortened to the nearest fruitful branching. This stimulates the growth of strong buds and increases the lifespan of the plant. The formed bush as a result should not have more than 25 branches. The procedure itself is repeated for 7-8 years.

Pruning bushes in spring

Spring is considered the optimal period for the full formation of the plant. Pruning at this time of the year should be done before the buds open, and this happens quite early in currants. That is why gardening experts advise starting this procedure in the fall and completing it in the spring.
Without timely pruning, the currant bush will not be able to produce a full-fledged crop, since the bulk of the berries are tied to last year's growths. Dried and old branches always need to be cut so that new shoots appear to replace them.

Currant - pruning in autumn and spring

How to form blackcurrant bushes

It is recommended to postpone the pruning of currants and gooseberries at this time of the year until late autumn, when the currants are already at rest, but the snow has not yet fallen. However, it is possible to cut off old branches immediately after the harvest has been harvested so that the bush has time to recover by winter. Both options are perfectly acceptable.​

The flow of nutrients to those branches that bring berries increases due to pruning of barren, "empty" shoots from raspberries and currants;

When auditing a currant bush and choosing branches for removal, look not at the top of the bush, but down at the root part. You will immediately see thick old branches, some of them will even have diseased and exfoliated bark. The growth on them is very small and weak. It is these branches that are to be removed in the first place.​

Blackcurrant pruning

Autumn pruning increases the winter hardiness of the plant, the bush will endure even the most severe colds much better and without loss.

When pruning currants, it should be borne in mind that on red and white currants, fruits appear on old shoots, while on black currants, berries form on young branches. The optimal form for red and white varieties is a cup-shaped shrub consisting of five main branches, initially pruned at a height of about 20 cm from the ground. Blackcurrant bushes can be formed, depending on the variety, compact or sprawling, but avoiding thickening, while cutting off old branches is recommended near the ground, followed by hilling, which activates the growth of young shoots.
So, we hope that we have answered your question about when you can cut currants. They do this in the spring, forming a bush and updating the branches.

How to form a bush of red currant

6. Currant slices do not overgrow on their own, so they must be treated with garden pitch.

In order for the berries to please with their size and taste in subsequent years, it is necessary to form the basis of the plant for many years. As soon as the crown gets an optimal look and can bear fruit regularly, you can proceed to the standard annual cutting.

Red currant pruning

If the buds have already begun to appear, then you can forget about the formation of a bush, since at this time juice is produced in the stems. If you start cutting off excess growths, then the plant will expire strongly, and this is very harmful for the future harvest. On the other hand, pruning currants too early will also not entail anything good. Therefore, it is best to get rid of infertile branches immediately after warming.

Thanks to this procedure, the yield increases several times already in the first year. Due to such artificial rejuvenation, the bush can bear fruit several years longer than usual. The whole secret is that old growths that interfere with the development of young shoots are removed to the ground. Experienced gardeners claim that proper pruning of currants after harvest allows the plant to bloom for more than 20 years.
It is best to prune currants in the fall before the upcoming frosts, but there will be nothing to worry about if you do this in the spring.

Help from professionals

The ideal period for the formation of the plant is early spring, before the buds open. It should be borne in mind that in currants this happens quite early, so it is better to do part of the work in the fall in order to gain time. After bud break, shoots cannot be removed - at this time juice is actively produced, and wounded branches will bleed heavily, which is very harmful for the plant. Of course, too early pruning will also not give positive results - you need to wait for warming.

It is easier to harvest from a well-formed bush, because it is not thickened and there is convenient access to all fruit-bearing branches.

Then all broken and thin shoots are removed.

The secret of currants is that only young branches give a harvest. Old branches that are more than 3-4 years old no longer bear fruit. They only interfere with the plant, shading it and taking on food. Therefore, it is recommended to remove them in the fall.

In blackcurrant, the complete removal of old branches (3-year-old and older) is recommended immediately after the end of the fruit collection. The rest of the pruning of currants of different varieties should be done during the dormant period, when the foliage has already fallen. Usually it is late autumn, starting from November.​

Currant is a common inhabitant of gardens and household plots, because its fruits are tasty both fresh and cooked. In addition, leaves can be added to food, especially when preserving vegetables for the winter. However, in order for this fruit crop to be able to please with delicious abundant harvests and excellent health, it must be properly looked after, and the processing of currants after harvest is a very important stage in this process.

7. Cut shoots are best burned immediately.

Red currant pruning is done either in late autumn or early spring. It will also not be superfluous to carry out the so-called sanitary cutting in the summer, when painful shoots are removed.

It is important to know that during the first few years, all growths should be removed, with the exception of the 3-5 strongest. The most promising shoots are those that are located at the root of the plant, and not separated from the trunks. Hemp from cut branches should not be more than 3 centimeters, otherwise they will grow again. It is recommended to treat all places of removal of growths with a special tool so that they “heal” faster.

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How and when to cut currants

Removing dried branches allows new shoots to get the required amount of sunlight. For this reason, the yield increases, and the berries themselves ripen large and rich in vitamins. Thanks to photosynthesis, the influx of vital substances for it increases in the plant. In other words, currant pruning is needed so that the nutrients come only to the berries and new shoots, and not to the old growths.

Pruning young currant

How to cut currants. Of all the existing care techniques, the most important and at the same time quite difficult for gardeners to implement is pruning and shaping bushes. Nevertheless, you need to boldly pick up a pruner, approach the bush and learn how to cut it correctly.

Basic rules for creating a productive, viable currant or gooseberry bush:
Proper pruning of red and black currants differs little: as a rule, black shoots older than 5 years cease to bear fruit, while red and old branches remain useful. In addition, red currants are more photosensitive, less sensitive to thickening of the bush, lack of sun.

Rules for pruning an adult bush

There are two types of gardeners' mistakes in pruning: Why can't this procedure be done in the spring? The fact is that in the spring the plant wakes up, active sap flow begins. Juice will flow from the cut areas, and the bush will spend its strength on healing these wounds, and not on flowering and berry formation.

Depending on the goals, the processing of currant bushes in the fall is carried out:

Rejuvenation of an old bush

Having finished picking berries, care for currant bushes must be continued, and enhanced. It is at this time that the necessary measures are:

Such an important procedure as currant pruning is necessary, first of all, in order to get good yields. Among other things, this increases the size of the berries. Therefore, many summer residents are concerned about the question of when they cut currants, and how to do it correctly. This event is held only in spring or at the very beginning of summer. Further in the article, we will consider in detail how to prune this wonderful plant in different situations.

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Processing currants after harvest

The red and white currants have much fewer cut branches than the black ones. Even the driest growths can bear fruit for 7-8 years. In addition, the distribution of berries in such varieties is even, so the bushes rarely need annual pruning. The main thing when growing currants is to prevent the crown from thickening and get rid of diseased shoots in time.

Processing currant bushes in autumn

This procedure requires a lot of patience and attention. To form a bush in late autumn, strongly protruding branches should be cut off, leaving 2 buds for the strong, and one for the weak. If long growths are left, then in the spring an uncountable number of buds will appear on them, but the berries on them will grow small and painful.

• The benefits of this procedure are also noticeable when harvesting, since the bush is not thickened with dry branches. As for pruning different varieties of berries, it is practically no different. The difference is that in red currants, even old growths remain fruitful.
• Pruning promotes the growth of new strong basal shoots from the underground part of the plant (their gardeners are called zero basal shoots, or renewal shoots). After pruning, there is increased branching of basal shoots, intensive growth of annual shoots on perennial branches of the bush, its thickening is prevented, and the size of the fruit increases. Pruning begins immediately after disembarkation. Each shoot is cut off, leaving only a few well-developed buds, and the weaker the growth of seedling shoots, the more they need to be shortened. In cases where, during the first year of life, the currant bush develops poorly and produces very few shoots, then you can cut the shoots to the soil level.
• During the first five years, all shoots should be removed every year, except for 3-4 of the strongest, well-bearing and conveniently located, that is, not shading each other.
• The formation of a bush occurs from the moment of planting, when only two to four buds are left for a young seedling, cutting off all the shoots shortly; and over the next 4-5 years. In the future, it is only required to maintain the established ratio of branches of different ages.​
• Inexperienced gardeners simply cut the tops of the branches, believing that in this way they are forming a bush.

Pruning is carried out according to the following scheme:

Mineral and organic fertilizers for top dressing;

Autumn pruning currant

Loosening the soil (shallow and at some distance from the trunks);

The question of when currants are cut for the first time is not difficult for experienced gardeners. Do this immediately after planting the bushes. Each branch must be cut in such a way that approximately 3-4 buds remain on it. The fact is that after transferring the plant from the nursery to a permanent place, the balance between the mass of the root system and the green aerial part is disturbed. As a result of the measures taken to shorten the branches from the roots, shoots begin to grow actively. At the same time, in the future, you can get a healthy, strong and well-bearing bush.

​Many amateur gardeners face the problem of decreasing yields when there are fewer berries every year. And although pruning currant bushes does not require special knowledge, sometimes it will not be superfluous to turn to specialists for help.

How to process currants in the fall?

Currant pruning should continue until only fruitful shoots remain on the bush, otherwise you should not expect a good harvest. Young branches appear very quickly, so the removal procedure must be done in a timely manner. If it is not possible to complete the formation of a bush in the autumn period, then it is better to finish it in early spring.

1. Most gardeners recommend cutting off extra branches at this time of the year. It is not for nothing that the very first pruning of currants is carried out just in the fall, when the seedlings are transferred to the ground, after getting rid of all the shoots and leaves, except for the lowest growing buds. In this matter, it is important that all the branches are tightened, and the roots begin to fully function even before the onset of frost.
2. If the gardener is very interested in what kind of currant he bought and what the taste and size of the fruit will be, then he may not cut off several annual shoots from the seedling. A year after planting, single brushes with fruits will appear on the plant.

Pruning bushes of black and red currants can be done both in autumn and in spring.

Video: pruning blackcurrant bushes in autumn

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Remove all young growth, leaving only the old branches that seem to them the strongest.

Why do you need pruning for currants

1. After harvesting, old and broken branches are cut out (a branch that is more than 3 years old is considered old). It differs from the young one in a darker color.
2. Karbofos, Bordeaux liquid or other protective preparations to combat existing diseases and pests.
3. Feeding plantings (as soon as the fruit picking is over);
4. Young bushes require similar care in the second year of growth. At the same time, the question of when the currants are cut should also not cause any difficulties. Do it strictly in the spring. At the same time, all underdeveloped shoots are removed, as well as young shoots completely.

How to prune currants in autumn

In any union of gardeners and in related companies there are professionals who can easily demonstrate in practice their skills in shaping and pruning currant bushes. In addition, the scope of services of such specialists includes regular care of plants, their fertilizer, transplantation and other work that can cause a lot of worries to the owner of the site.

Minerals and water practically do not move along the old branches, which is why they grow so slowly and do not give a proper harvest, and even interfere with the full development of young shoots. If the bush is not cut for several years, then in the end it will wither. The full formation of the crown will be completed only in the fifth year after proper care of the plant.

In all following years, currant pruning after harvest should be carried out before the first cold weather. The processing of bushes can begin in the fall, and be completed in more detail in the spring. It is important to pay attention to the following nuances:

• Over the following years, only a few well-developed and conveniently placed annual basal shoots are left annually to form full-fledged bushes, the rest are cut out at the base. First you need to remove the weakest shoots, as well as thickened and affected by diseases and pests. Old branches are also removed if they are not sufficiently developed, damaged by a glass case, shoot gall midge, or broken. If the bush forms weak basal shoots, then a couple of old skeletal branches should be cut out, even if they bear fruit.
• The stumps remaining from the cut branches should not exceed 2-3 cm, otherwise they may grow again, and the task of the person who forms the bush is to bring new basal shoots to life.
• The currant bush receives the first "baptism of fire" with autumn pruning in the first year of life - the seedlings are transferred to open ground in the fall, while cutting off the leaves and cutting off all the shoots so that only a few low-lying buds remain (from 25 to 40 cm above the ground) . It is very important that the branches have time to "heal", and the root system to begin to function normally, before the onset of winter cold.
• In the first case, the bush will turn out to be too thickened, and the harvest is small, in the second it will not bear fruit at all next year.
• Old branches are cut almost under the root, leaving only a small stump about 2 cm in size.
• For additional autumn fertilization of currants, you can also use manure, preferably with a high content of potassium (1 bucket per bush), a solution of superphosphate and potassium phosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), nitrophoska (per 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. l.) or other complex mineral fertilizer.​

treatment for pests and diseases;

How to determine which branches to delete

In the third and fourth years, pruning is carried out mainly only in order to form a neat bush. Branches of varieties that do not give lateral shoots are shortened by a third of the length. Well-branched varieties are not pruned at all. The only thing to do in the latter case is to remove damaged ends or poorly developed branches.

1. A large proportion of the crop is formed on shoots that are no more than 2 years old.

Mistakes gardeners make

After the final formation of the bush, you can resort to the procedure for the annual removal of excess sprouts. In fact, it is very simple: only those branches that are more than 5 years old are cut. This procedure is done in early spring, until the buds begin to ripen. On the other hand, many gardeners recommend postponing the cutting of infertile branches to a later period. Pruning blackcurrants in autumn allows the plant to better endure the harsh winter.

• - young growths that strongly thicken the bush must be thinned out;
• Formative pruning ends at 4-5 years. A properly formed mature blackcurrant bush after the growing season has branches of different ages - from zero replacement shoots to fruiting ones. It is advisable to leave up to 15 skeletal branches of all ages in the bush, about 2-4 pieces each. , and annuals are left a few more branches, and 4-5 years of age, a couple of pieces less.

All sections must be treated with a special garden pitch.

In subsequent years, it is best to do a rough pruning of the garden in the fall, and in the spring to complete what has been started, more carefully and in detail. What to remove before winter:

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Proper pruning of currant bushes for the winter

In conclusion, one piece of advice: do not be afraid to experiment and do not “pity” the bush too much: remove the old, obsolete parts and give growth and more sunlight to strong young shoots that will surely please you with an excellent harvest next season.

• Cut points must be treated with a garden pitch or other wound-healing drug.
• In order for the autumn processing of currants to be effective, it is also recommended to make bedding under the bushes, for example, from crushed oak bark. It will protect the root system from drying out and frost.
• shaping and anti-aging pruning;
• Next, consider how to prune blackcurrants if the bush is already formed. An adult is considered a 5-6-year-old plant with 15-20 well-developed branches. Such a bush already requires annual care. Remove all branches growing inside the bush. If there are crossing shoots, one of them should be cut out. All old branches are also cut out. They can be identified by their darker bark. Each of them is removed in such a way that no hemp remains.
• 2. Pruning currants in summer is allowed only if individual branches of the plant are infected.

Regardless of the time of year, weak and dried branches should be removed to the level of the soil. At this stage, it is important not to miss the infection of the plant. If glassware or kidney mites have settled in it, then it must be immediately dug out along with the ground until the pests have moved to other bushes.

- old branches that do not yield crops for several years in a row should be removed;

In adult fruit-bearing blackcurrants, obsolete 5-6-year-old unproductive branches are cut out every year. It is possible to determine that the branches of a bush are outdated and unproductive by several external signs. In old branches, the terminal growth of many branches is rather weak, often less than 10-15 cm. If on the branches of a young branch the apical bud is 5-6 mm in diameter, then on outdated branches its size will be no more than 3 cm. On old branches of blackcurrant bark dark brown in color, and the older the branch, the darker its bark will be. In 2- and 3-year-old branches, the bark is yellow and light gray in color. You can most accurately determine the age of a branch by branching order. The axis of a perennial branch or basal shoot is zero order and corresponds to the first year of a plant's life. The first branching order will be a branch from the axis of the branch, and the branch will accordingly be two years old, etc.

Pruning currants for the winter in autumn - how and why?

In the end, you should get a bush consisting of 10-15 fruiting branches of different ages, from 1 to 5 years. Further care for him involves maintaining the resulting balance.

Old branches that did not bear fruit this season;

• To get a good harvest from berry bushes, a lot of effort is required. Caring for them requires not only regular watering, fertilizing the soil and protection from all kinds of diseases, but also the ability to properly prune the shoots. It would seem, why "torment" the currant and spend time to form a bush, because it is rarely used as a decorative element of the landscape? However, thoughtful, timely pruning of shoots gives a noticeable result:
• Sick branches are also removed completely. In addition, they must be burned so as not to spread the disease throughout the site.​
• It is wrong to think that by planting a currant bush on your plot and fertilizing it in time, you can reap an excellent harvest from year to year. The main subtlety in the care of any currant - red, white or black - is the timely and correct pruning of the bush.

Moisture-charging watering for the winter (carried out after the leaves have completely fallen off before the onset of cold weather).

After harvesting currants in the middle of summer, we, as a rule, safely forget about the bushes until spring, at best, we will cut them off in the fall and mulch them. Indeed, after picking berries, currants need to rest. But rest with old branches, pests and diseases that have not disappeared anywhere on depleted land is not the most successful. And it is not necessary to wait after such a holiday for a good harvest next year.

Currants, like strawberries, after fruiting, need at least three activities:

-currant processing after harvest from diseases and pests

- pruning currants after harvest

- fertilizing currants after harvest

Currants are budding for next year's harvest in the summer, and how well you take care of your plant will determine how many berries you pick in a year. Therefore, we propose to talk what to do after picking currants, and most importantly - how to do it.

How to process currants after harvest

Even a healthy-looking currant bush after fruiting should be treated with a fungicide and insecticide.

As a fungicide, you can take, for example, a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, Topaz, Fundazol, or another drug that you are used to using. If you notice signs on currant leaves after fruiting, spraying is carried out twice.

Currant mites, gall midges and glass cases cause great harm to currants. These pests remain on your currant even after fruiting, and, having successfully overwintered, in the spring they attack the bush with renewed vigor. To prevent this from happening, drugs are used:

- from a tick on a currant: Kleshchevit (4 ml of the drug per 2 liters of water, 1 bush - 2 liters), Fitoverm (20 ml per 1 bucket of water), Karbofos (and not only from ticks), Neoron (15 ml per 1 bucket of water) and other drugs

- from a glass case on a currant: Karbofos, Fitoverm Lepidocid, etc.

- from gall midges on currants: Aliot, Kinmiks, Fitoverm, Lepidocid, etc.

If your currant is not affected by diseases and pests, one treatment will be enough, if there are signs of damage, repeat currant processing after fruiting with a short interval.

How to prune currants after harvest?

Traditionally, pruning of currants is carried out in early spring, before the buds have blossomed, or already before winter, when the leaves have fallen. However, it makes sense to remove unnecessary currant branches immediately after fruiting, at least the old ones.

It is known that after the age of three, currant shoots begin to bear fruit worse, and they are removed. However, immediately after picking the berries, on these, in fact, no longer needed, old shoots, buds are laid for the next year, taking away nutrients from young, healthy branches. Why allow it? It is better to remove old, thick branches immediately. can be postponed until late autumn, when the leaves will fly around, and it will be more convenient to cut. But there is no fundamental difference - you can remove all unnecessary branches immediately after picking currant berries.

By the way, it is better not to touch the leaves on red and white currants after harvesting, but they can be cut off from black currants (especially if the leaves are diseased). To do this, they tightly clasp each branch with their fingers and draw it from the bottom up, in the direction of the growth of the kidneys, and what is not removed immediately is cut with scissors. Diseased leaves are removed from the site and destroyed.

How is currant pruning after harvest? Forming a currant bush begins at the age of three, since the main crop is formed on branches aged 1-3 years. Branches 4-5 years old and older are removed. Pruned from currants and all branches, regardless of age, dried up, diseased, and those that are strongly inclined to the ground, since in summer the amount of light for such branches will be insufficient for the full development of berries.

Pruning is done near the ground, trying not to leave stumps. It is quite easy to distinguish old branches from young ones: young shoots are light, old ones are dark brown, thick, often in lichens. Thanks to this pruning, we stimulate the growth of new basal shoots from the underground part of the bush.

The shoots that have grown during this season are called "zero". On the "zero" shoots, only black currants bear fruit, white and red ones produce a crop on older branches. In order not to thicken the bush, 3-4 "zero" shoots are left, however, we cut the currant after harvesting, it has yet to winter, and it is not a fact that all young shoots will overwinter. Therefore, for safety net, it is recommended to leave 4-5 "zero" shoots. The remaining young shoots are cut to the base of the stumps. Left young shoots are shortened by a third of the length to enhance branching.

2-3-year-old branches are renewed: the drying tops of aging shoots are cut off to any strong lateral branch to enhance the growth of the remaining part of the branch. Also, to enhance branching, cut off the top of the shoot.

In general, there should be 15-18 branches of different ages on the bush.

How to feed currants after harvest?

Currant after harvest more than ever needs to be fed. Currants need to be fed with both mineral and organic fertilizers. Potash and phosphorus fertilizers are taken as mineral fertilizers, and nitrogen for currants is enough for what is contained in organic matter. Currant - a phosphorus plant; in addition, in order to prepare for winter, all plants need increased doses of phosphorus, which stimulates the lignification of shoots. However, if you have collected a lot of berries from a bush, or chlorosis is observed on the leaves from a lack of nitrogen, you can also apply mineral fertilizers, which contain nitrogen.

So, how to feed currants after picking berries?

Organics:

Purchased organic fertilizers - for example, liquid vermicompost with phosphorus

Mineral fertilizers:

Double superphosphate / superphosphate and potassium nitrate (2 tablespoons per 1 bucket of water)

Ammofoska / diamofoska and (2 tablespoons of fertilizer and 1 glass of ash per 1 bucket of water)

A tablespoon of urea and superphosphate, 1 cup of ash (for 1 bucket of water)

1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate per 1 bucket of water.

Mineral top dressings can be dissolved in organic ones if they are liquid (infusion of litter, mullein), or first shed the ground, feed currants after fruiting with minerals, and then with organic matter (peat, humus, compost).

Caring for currants after fruiting also provides for foliar treatment: it would not be superfluous to give the bush an immunostimulant (for example, Zircon), a growth modulator (for example, HB 101). This will remove the stress from the plant that occurs after abundant fruiting. But here you need to look specifically at the plant.

I hope our article told you how to care for currants after harvest.

And now we invite you to watch a video about caring for currants after fruiting.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the Sobcorrespondent of the online publication "AtmAgro. Agroindustrial Bulletin"

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