I planted tomatoes to feed. Feeding tomatoes after planting

When planting tomatoes in the ground, do not forget that one of the most important procedures for caring for these plants is top dressing. It is necessary for all tomatoes without exception and is a complex process. It includes the stages of diagnosing the needs of the plant, the choice of the necessary substance for feeding and the direct implementation of this procedure. But not everyone knows how to properly perform each of the stages of the process. In this article, all the nuances of the procedure will be considered in detail, which will make it possible to successfully introduce nutrients for tomatoes even to inexperienced summer residents.

Peculiarities

The fertilization procedure is based on several important characteristics. First of all, two types of top dressing can be attributed to them - root and foliar.

The first option involves the introduction of nutrients directly into the soil, closer to the root zone. It is with the help of the roots that the plant absorbs everything it needs from the soil, so it is important not only to ensure the growth of the root system, but also its health.

In order to carry out this type of top dressing correctly, you should find out in advance what elements should be included in the composition of the soil for the favorable development of the plant. And also loosening the soil and its mulching will come to the rescue. These procedures make the earth more homogeneous and allow the root system to be more efficiently saturated with nutrients.

The foliar type of application of the necessary fertilizers is also very popular with summer residents. It is necessary for tomatoes in the same way as root, so the ideal option is to use two varieties of top dressing together. The foliar procedure is an effect not through the soil, but directly on the plants by spraying. It has many positive features.

• Reduced consumption of some fertilizers. This is due to the uniform distribution of substances over the leaves and stems of plants.
• If in the process of fertilizing the root along with water, tomatoes cannot absorb the full dose of nutrients due to the fact that they are washed out with moisture, then when spraying, all the fertilizer falls on the leaves and is absorbed by the plants.
• The undoubted advantage is that external dressing provides quick help to tomatoes. Entering into immediate contact with plants, the necessary components are able to rehabilitate it more quickly than top dressing through the root.
• However, remember that when spraying tomatoes, you need to consider several important nuances.
• Observe the concentration of substances according to the instructions on the packaging. If the liquid is too concentrated, then, if it gets on the leaves, it can leave burns on them.

Do not spray with water containing bleach.

Another feature is the schedule for introducing the necessary substances into the soil or onto plants. In this matter, it is better to avoid extremes. Excessively frequent supply of nutrients is fraught with severe burns from an excess of minerals. With rare fertilization processes, tomatoes can die due to a lack of nutrients.

An important component of top dressing is to determine what substances a plant needs by its appearance. The lack of specific elements can be judged by some criteria.

• If the growth of tomatoes slows down, young leaves appear too faded, yellowing of the leaves below, thinning of the roots or small ovaries, then the plant needs nitrogen. It is responsible not only for the process of photosynthesis, but also for the amount of greenery in the aerial part of the plant. If fertilizer is not carried out, then the leaves will curl and then die off.
• Potassium deficiency is evidenced by such signs as stunting, the appearance of a yellow edging on the leaves, and their death in especially advanced cases.

• If tomatoes need phosphorus, a blue tone appears in the color of the leaves, an even darker purple tint becomes noticeable on the stems, the leaves begin to curl, the growth process itself usually stops, and the vegetables look rather sluggish. On the roots with a deficiency of the element, a rusty tinge may occur. But in the case of an excessive amount of phosphorus, the leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off.
• Zinc deficiency is indicated by signs such as an abundance of yellow spots on the lower leaves. At the same time, new leaves do not grow to large sizes and also have yellow specks.
• An insufficient amount of magnesium provokes the appearance of yellowness in the central part of the sheets. And also the leaves themselves turn upside down, and the process of their death gradually begins.

All these stages appear first in the lower part of the plant, and then move to the upper parts.

• And the lack of calcium manifests itself, on the contrary, from the top of the bush. Rot may appear on the tops, and the greens themselves have a rather dark color. At the same time, old leaves significantly increase in size, and new ones appear with yellowness.
• If the stems of the plant become thin, and red-blue and yellow streaks begin to appear on the leaves, then the tomatoes lack sulfur.
• Sometimes brown spots or dark veins appear on fruits and leaves. And also at the same time, the top of the plant begins to slope downwards, the formation of the ovary worsens. It is in this case that the lack of boric acid should be filled.
• When the plant needs iron, this is evidenced by yellow-white leaves at the top, as well as yellowing of greenery starting from the lower sections. At the same time, the growth of tomatoes is much slower.

It is also worth remembering that various types of fertilizers are used for tomatoes, and there is a special algorithm for their application, consisting of several successive stages.

Types of fertilizers

Fertilizers, especially important for tomatoes, can be of various origins. According to the presence of chemical compounds in the composition, they are divided into three types.

organic

This type of fertilizer is a natural substance containing nutrients. They are responsible for the favorable composition of the soil and are especially important when the tomatoes have just been transplanted into open ground. The ideal set of components includes manure, compost, humus, peat, chicken manure. Each of them has a certain beneficial effect.

• Manure not only improves soil fertility, but also saturates it with nitrogen. To use as a top dressing, it is usually insisted. For one bucket of water, 2500 grams of cow manure is taken.
• Humus- a substance of plant origin. It enriches the soil for tomatoes with useful substances in the spring season.
• Abundantly saturates the soil with nitrogen compounds also bird droppings. As a rule, to feed tomatoes, it is diluted in water and added to the soil. 0.2 kg of fertilizer is used per square meter.
• Peat contains fewer nutrients, so it is not used as a separate top dressing, but it is very useful in the implementation of mulching processes.

• Sawdust coated with urea, often used in cases where the gardener is dealing with heavy soil. This component enriches the soil with nitrogen, but in most cases it is laid into the soil even in the winter season.
• To stimulate growth and strengthen the condition and increase the size of the root system, you can use such organic matter like yeast. They also contribute to faster processes of formation of new shoots. About 600 grams of yeast is usually diluted in 6 liters of water. After insisting for a day, the composition is mixed and another 6 liters of liquid are poured. Watering itself is carried out in such a way that approximately one liter of fertilizer is used per bush.
• One of the proven folk remedies that help saturate tomatoes with nutrients is herbal infusion. To create it, nettle and dandelion greens are useful. They are filled with water, infused for 10 days with periodic stirring of the composition. For top dressing, a liter of infusion is poured into a bucket and diluted with water.

Mineral fertilizers

Another type of top dressing for tomatoes are mineral compounds. They are substances that contain a combination of all the elements necessary for the nutrition of tomatoes. The most common are several fertilizers.

• Nitroammophoska, which includes compounds of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. It is often used during summer top dressing, as well as in the process of digging plants.
• Ammophos contains two components - phosphorus and nitrogen. It is often used for plants in greenhouse conditions.
• Potassium nitrate combines potassium with nitrogen. It is introduced into the soil during the preparation of future tomato beds.

• The complex composition of all three components is present in nitrophoska. Fertilizer is used for the most part during digging.
• The last type of nutrient fertilizers are complex substances, in which organic material is combined with substances of inorganic origin. The most popular dressings are considered "Baby", which contains, in addition to phosphorus and nitrogen, substances such as sand, peat and dolomite flour. Bio Vita is also popular, which, in addition to mineral components, uses bacteria and humic acids in its fertilizers.

But you can also independently prepare a mixture of organic and inorganic substances. To do this, 25 grams of dry litter should be dissolved in 0.5 liters of water. After that, in the amount of one teaspoon, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added to the mixture. After mixing, the resulting composition is diluted with 10 liters of water and used.

Feeding schemes

In order to properly feed the tomatoes after planting seedlings in open ground, it must be borne in mind that top dressing is carried out in 4 stages, each of which has a specific time. Consider what the seedling fertilizer scheme looks like.

• At the first stage immediately after transplanting tomatoes into the ground it is necessary to focus on strengthening the immunity of seedlings, as well as stimulate their growth and accelerate adaptation processes. A week after planting, it is recommended to spray young plants with a solution of 9 liters of water, a liter of whey and 10 drops of iodine.
• To feed the roots during the first period you can use Ideal fertilizer (in the amount of 1 tablespoon), the same amount of nitrophoska, while dissolving the components in 10 liters of water. In addition, each plant should be fertilized with no more than 0.5 liters of the substance.

• The second time the tomatoes need to be fed when they begin to bloom, also during this period the second brush should bloom. The introduction of nutrients is necessary for the subsequent formation of healthy and strong ovaries. Top dressing is carried out by adding a solution, which includes one tablespoon of superphosphate and Agricola-Vegeta, 10 liters of water, as well as potassium chloride or potassium sulfate, taken in the amount of one teaspoon. For each bush you will need one liter of fertilizer.
• The third stage occurs as soon as the third flower brush blooms. A special top dressing is created by mixing 1 tbsp. spoons of fertilizer "Ideal" or "Sodium Humate" in a liquid consistency, the same amount of nitrophoska and 10 liters of water. For 1m2 of a garden plot, the amount of fertilizer will be approximately 5 liters.
• The last stage is carried out 21 days after the third procedure. Plants need to be watered with a solution created by diluting a tablespoon of superphosphate in 10 liters of water. At the same time, expect that all 10 liters will go to 1 m2 of area.

If the condition of the tomatoes worsens, an additional fifth top dressing is carried out.

Properly carried out top dressing for tomatoes after planting seedlings in the ground will allow you to get a good harvest. The main thing is to apply fertilizers in a timely manner and in the correct proportions. There are many ways to feed and types of fertilizers. Each gardener empirically selects the best methods for himself. There are two ways to apply top dressing: root and foliar. With root top dressing, fertilizer is applied in liquid form under the root and nourishes the plant through the root system. This is the main type of top dressing, which saturates the tomatoes with the necessary amount of the main useful components. Such top dressing is carried out with caution, avoiding the solution getting on the tomato leaves, otherwise they may burn. Foliar top dressing is carried out by spraying, so the nutrient components are distributed over the surface of the leaves and stem. The concentration of the solution for processing a tomato should be much less. This method quickly saturates the seedlings with microelements and saves fertilizers. Spraying is carried out in small doses, but often. It is undesirable to use chlorinated water. Many summer residents prefer to collect rainwater. When planting, experts advise treating the seeds with nutrient solutions. They contain a complex of substances that stimulate the growth of tomatoes. You can use Kornevin, Guamat, Epin, Zircon. Beginning gardeners need to know that potash fertilizers are not suitable for soaking tomato seeds. They slow down the growth of young plants. Tomatoes need different nutrients during different growth periods. At the initial stages of development, tomatoes require nitrogenous substances. When they enter in sufficient quantities, a high-quality green mass is formed. Nitrogen is also required at the stage of ovary formation. Phosphorus is necessary for tomatoes in order for the root system to develop. After all, it is through the root that the maximum amount of nutrients enters the plant. Potassium supplementation for tomatoes is required for the formation of generative organs. Potash fertilizers for the first time are allowed to be applied at the stage when the 3rd leaf of the seedlings has formed. This type of feeding is responsible for immunity. Plants become more resistant to various diseases. They are not so afraid of pests, short-term cold snaps and droughts. Approaches to tomato fertilizer when transplanted into a greenhouse and into open ground are somewhat different. So, when transplanting into a greenhouse, the first fertilizer is applied approximately 2 weeks after planting. This allows the root system to adapt from injury. From the first weeks, potash and nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil to reduce the risk of a shortage of these elements, which are vital for the successful development and fruiting of tomatoes. Organic fertilizers such as urea or manure are also relevant from the first weeks of planting in the greenhouse. Liquid fertilizer is prepared by dissolving 25 g of urea and 15 g of potassium sulfate in a volume of 10 liters of water. Watering consumption is one liter per bush. The second time the bushes of tomatoes are fed, with their mass flowering. Top dressing for tomatoes is necessary for the appearance of strong ovaries at the next stage. A tablespoon of potash fertilizer and half a liter of bird droppings and manure are consumed per bucket of solution. Each bush should receive up to one and a half liters of liquid. With a lack of organic matter, you can add a tablespoon of nitrophoska. To prevent the occurrence of blossom end rot on tomatoes, they should be sprayed with calcium nitrate - a tablespoon per bucket.

When the ovaries are formed, top dressing of tomatoes is carried out with a solution of ash (2 l), boric acid (10 g) in a bucket of hot water. For better dissolution, the liquid is infused for a day. Up to one liter of solution is consumed for each bush. Once again, tomato fertilizer is used during mass fruiting to improve the taste of fruits and accelerate their ripening. For irrigation, a tablespoon of liquid sodium humate with two tablespoons of superphosphate is taken on a bucket. Open ground is usually prepared for planting in advance, often in the fall. The soil is loosened, all weeds and rhizomes are removed, enriched with organic matter, and also fertilized with humus, manure or droppings, at the rate of up to 6-8 kg per square meter. In the spring, mineral top dressing is introduced: nitrogen fertilizer, urea or superphosphate, and also potassium chloride.

After landing in open ground, depending on the weather conditions of the region, the first feeding is carried out after 3-4 days. If the seedlings are weak, apply 1 tbsp. urea per bucket of water, at the rate of 1.5 liters per bush. During the formation of flowering per 10 liters of water, 80 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium nitrate are used, at the rate of 1.5 liters per bush. The third top dressing is carried out during fruiting: 40 g of double superphosphate and potassium nitrate per ten-liter bucket of water. And 12-14 days after the third feeding, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate is used (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) per 1 m3 - 10 liters. It is undesirable to introduce superphosphate into the soil simultaneously with urea, lime, dolomite flour and ammonium nitrate. After applying these fertilizers, you can feed the plants with superphosphate no earlier than a week later. Now consider some popular recipes for feeding tomatoes. 1. Fertilizing with yeast and sugar. A well-known folk way is to feed tomatoes with yeast. They are brought under the root no more than 2-3 times for all the time, mainly during the development of seedlings and vegetation. Yeast contains a wide range of minerals that are beneficial to the plant and contribute to the good development of the root system and foliage. The first time it is worth fertilizing during the period of growing seedlings, the second - at the time of tying the buds, about the fourth week after planting in permanent soil. To prepare top dressing you will need: 1. 2.5 liters of water (without chlorine) 2. A bag of dry yeast 3. 1/2 tbsp. sugar Leave the mixed ingredients warm until the end of fermentation. Then 1 tbsp. the resulting concentrate is diluted in 10 liters of water. We make root top dressing, at the rate of 1 liter per bush 2. Top dressing of tomatoes with boric acid Boric acid contains the necessary element that promotes fertilization, pollination, and the appearance of ovaries. The solution for a young tomato consists of: 1 gram of powder per 1 liter of water. An adult seedling needs to increase the concentration by 1.5 times. Spraying is carried out on the basis of 0.1 liter per 1 bush. 3. Fertilizing tomatoes with iodine Fertilizing with iodine is another promising approach in which fertilizer is applied once every two weeks. Dilute 5 drops of the drug in 15 liters of warm water, sometimes adding 10 grams of phosphorus, up to 20 grams of potassium. Water directly under the root, at the rate of 2 liters per plant. 4. Top dressing of tomatoes with herbal infusion and nettle infusion To prepare the solution, the nettle is crushed and poured with warm water, insisted for 2 weeks, stirring the solution daily. Under the influence of solar heat, the solution will ferment better. Add wood ash to this top dressing. It is a source of phosphorus-potassium substances and useful trace elements.

When the solution is ready, you can start applying it to the beds: You do not need to filter the solution. It is diluted with water 1:10 and water the soil around the plants. Water once a week. If it rains, then you can water more often. This mixture is suitable for spraying plants, but for this it must be diluted in a ratio of 1:20. Many gardeners use nettle not only as an infusion, they mulch the beds with leaves and stems. This helps the tomatoes grow well, increasing yields. This solution is an excellent prevention against slugs and snails. 5. Feeding tomatoes with chicken manure Another affordable and effective remedy is chicken manure. Pigeon droppings, mullein, horse manure are also suitable - the action is similar. Top dressing of tomatoes with chicken manure is done before planting and during the growing season. It is recommended to prepare the solution as follows. Half a bucket of chicken is poured with water and infused for 10 days, stirring every day. Then they prepare top dressing from chicken manure: add 0.5 liters of infusion to 10 liters of water. Be sure to water the plants before feeding. To prepare this infusion, you should choose a container that closes with a lid. You can prepare a solution, and then use it all summer. Fertilize the soil before planting, distributing the litter over the bed and digging up the soil. Calculation - for 1 square. meter you need 3.5 kg of litter. Some ash, sand or compost components are also added to the chicken. In this case, fertilizer is applied to the soil and left until spring. Under the cover of snow, it will rot well, and already in the spring you can start digging beds. It is also necessary to take into account that chicken is toxic. Peat, straw or sawdust will help get rid of such an effect on plants. For this, compost is prepared: On the prepared site, lay out a sawdust layer, then a layer of chicken (up to 20 cm), sawdust again, and again chicken manure. Compost should be prepared for 1.5 months, then you can fertilize the beds. If the use of chicken manure has led to the fact that the tomatoes began to grow too much green mass (leaves and stems have become thicker), it is worth stopping it. Otherwise, it will not bring benefits - the harvest will not be plentiful. To establish the correct metabolism, you can use ash infusion. To stop the process of assimilation of nitrogen by the plant, when leaves and steles actively grow in the absence of ovaries and fruits, a solution is prepared from wood ash (100 grams per 10 liters of water) and the plants are sprayed.

A very convenient remedy is fertilizer in the form of dry granules. Such litter is more convenient to use as a fertilizer, and it also has many advantages: there is no unpleasant odor; does not contain weed seeds; no helminth eggs; nitrogen is not lost during storage; take up little space (swell when in contact with liquid); contribute to a 2-fold increase in yield; in dry weather give the soil moisture; long shelf life; suitable for all plants. Such fertilizer is applied at 100-200 grams per 1 sq. meter. Sprinkle the manure in granules with soil or dig up the beds after application. This fertilizer is also suitable during the growing season of the plant. Granular manure causes burns in green crops. Therefore, it should not be applied directly to the seedling holes. 6. Fertilizing tomatoes with ash By adding ash and wood ash to the soil in the garden or in the greenhouse, we thereby change its acid-base balance - ash significantly lowers acidity. Therefore, alkalizing acidic soil, you can apply up to 500 g per square meter. Heavy clay or loamy soil after such application for another 4-5 years will show miracles of fertility, and retain a lighter structure. This cannot be done with neutral or alkaline soil. Since peat, on the contrary, oxidizes the soil, at neutral indicators, fertilizing and lightening the structure, wood ash and peat are usually added simultaneously. If plants prefer acidic soil, such as potatoes, radishes, gourds, then use the ashes with great care. But top dressing with ashes of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, cabbage always gives a positive effect. Ash is used in dry form, solutions, infusions and extracts are made from it, and compost heaps are enriched with it. Used as root and foliar top dressing. Spraying with ash helps speed up the fruiting process of tomatoes. To prepare the solution, use the following components: Wood ash - 2 liters Boric acid - 10 grams Water - 1 bucket . After such an application, it is covered with earth or mixed with it, and then with each moistening, the roots receive a portion of nutrition. 7. Fertilizing tomatoes with whey, milk Fertilizer in the form of milk allows you to enrich the soil in a complex way, especially since the whole composition is natural and is perfectly absorbed by the plant. Due to lactose, pests do not attack tomatoes. To process tomatoes, you must use only raw milk. Whey fertilizer is used to protect tomatoes from fungus. Also, the substance is used as a trap for insects, for example, butterflies and caterpillars. When planting tomatoes, when the stems and leaves have just begun to grow, mix 1 liter of milk and a bucket of water, add 15 drops of iodine. After disembarkation, the concentration of the solution must be increased. Add 1 liter of milk to 4 liters of water. Water each well with 0.5 liters of the mixture. This feeding is done every 3 days. To improve the effect of feeding, you can add 10 drops of iodine solution. When the first fruits appear, top dressing should be done 2 times every week. It is better to alternate several types of dressings with ash or iodine. For spraying, a solution is prepared with water and milk (whey) in a ratio of 4: 1. You can also add 15 drops of iodine and 200 grams of wood ash to milk. 8. Fertilizing tomatoes with bread This fertilizer helps to saturate tomatoes with carbon dioxide - this is an excellent growth stimulant. Pour crackers with water, put 2.5 kg of crackers on a 5-liter bucket. Rusks should be completely covered with warm water, even a little more, as they absorb water well. Put oppression on top and leave it like that for 7 days. Before use, dilute with 3 liters of water. Poor soil should be fertilized not only with bread infusion, add 100 grams of dry yeast to the solution, immediately before fertilizing. The first time to fertilize tomatoes is recommended when the first leaves appear. This can be done either two days before transplanting into a separate pot, or 5 days after. After that, it is necessary to wait for the second flower brush to appear on the tomatoes, and then feeding is done every 2 weeks. 9. Feeding tomatoes with calcium nitrate To increase the green mass, calcium nitrate, which promotes rooting and plant growth. Start fertilizing when 2 true leaves appear. Use calcium nitrate in different stages of plant growth. After planting a tomato or directly when planting them, you can add saltpeter to the soil - 20 grams per plant. In autumn, this substance is not applied to the soil, as melted snow and rainwater washes it out of the soil within 2-3 weeks. For spraying, a solution is made by mixing 2 grams per 1 liter of water. Saltpeter is also mixed with other fertilizers. when watering seedlings with mullein, add 20 grams of calcium nitrate to the bucket. You can add additional components to this composition: 100 grams of ash and 10 grams of urea. Water the crops with this fertilizer after the appearance of 2 leaves and 10 days after picking. At the ripening stage, it is recommended to feed the tomato with such a solution: add 500 ml of infused chicken or mullein and 20 grams of saltpeter to a bucket of water. Thanks to this fertilizer, the soil will become favorable for growth, and the roots of the crop will receive more oxygen. 10. Feeding tomatoes with potassium humate Humate contains mineral microelements and other substances necessary for tomato crops, which contribute to the growth and development of tomatoes at an accelerated pace. Almost 80% of potassium humate is humic acids. These substances are necessary to increase productivity.

They also improve the physical properties and chemical composition of the soil. To prepare a nutrient solution, 50 ml of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water. In the same concentration, fertilizers are diluted for spraying tomatoes. With the help of humate, pre-planting soil preparation is also carried out. The soil is watered with a nutrient mixture made from 10 liters of water and 500 ml of fertilizer. The use of such a recipe allows you to increase the fertility of the land. For the whole season, you need to treat the plants with this fertilizer up to 6 times. 11. Feeding tomatoes with nitrophoska It would be rational to scatter the mixture directly into the wells for fertilizer so that each bush receives its share of nutrients. Pour 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the hole and mix well with the soil. Then plant seedlings. You can water the plants with a prepared solution: 50 grams per bucket of water. Each granule of nitrophoska is a uniquely balanced composition of a whole set of minerals. Depending on the composition, the mixture may contain the following components: ammonium nitrate (nitrogen); phosphorus precipitate; potassium chloride; ammonium phosphate (ammophos); calcium chloride; potassium nitrate; superphosphate. There are many mineral mixtures similar in composition to nitrophoska: Azofoska. Both have the same three element formula (NPK). The difference is that in azophoska phosphorus is completely digestible, while in nitrophoska it is only partially. In addition, azophoska contains sulfur, and in nitrophoska this trace element is present in only one form - sulfate. Ammophoska. It also has a classic NPK base, but the nitrogen in this fertilizer is in the ammonium form (does not lead to the accumulation of nitrates). In addition to the main elements, magnesium and sulfur are present in the fertilizer, with sulfur accounting for at least 14% of the total composition of the mixture. The fertilizer does not contain chlorine, sodium and ballast substances, due to which it can be used on any soil, including greenhouses, as well as for feeding chlorine-sensitive crops: currants, gooseberries, grapes, potatoes, tomatoes. Nitroammophoska. She has the same NPK core with nitrophoska, and the difference is only in the percentage and form of the main or additional components. In addition, nitroammophoska does not contain magnesium, but sulfates predominate in it, and unlike nitrophoska, it has a longer aftereffect period. Nitroammophos. Despite the similar name with the previous fertilizer, nitroammophos has a significant difference - it lacks potassium. Ammophos. Its main components are nitrogen and phosphorus, but the concentration of the latter is almost 4 times higher. Both elements are in a highly digestible form, so their use has some advantages over nitrate mixtures. 12. Fertilizing tomatoes with double superphosphate A complex mineral mixture - double superphosphate is an excellent fertilizer that contains nitrogen-phosphorus compounds. In this mixture, phosphorus oxide is easily digestible, so gardeners always fertilize the land where tomatoes grow with it. Superphosphate must be applied directly to the soil - in spring or autumn. Dosage - 40-50 mg per 1 square meter. For greenhouse plants, the rate increases by 2 times: 80 mg per 1 square meter. 13. Top dressing of tomatoes GUMI Humic top dressings are made on a natural basis. The popularity is explained by the minimum content of nitrates, which favorably distinguishes such fertilizers in comparison with mineral supplements. In the composition of humic fertilizers, you can find the same elements that are also present in mineral complex top dressings. However, due to the content of acids, the impact of nitrates on grown vegetables and fruits is minimal. That guarantees the ecological cleanliness of the resulting crop.

In addition to watering tomatoes need regular top dressing. During active growth, liquid top dressing is used. The composition and amount of fertilizers regulate depending on the development of plants.

Basic Rules:

• Tomatoes begin to be fed after planting, a week after the seedlings have taken root.
• For top dressing of tomatoes, root and foliar top dressings are used. Their composition depends on the stage of plant development, fruit size and weather conditions.
• Root dressings are combined with watering, foliar dressings are produced as needed.
• The favorite component of a tomato is potassium, and the least favorite is chlorine. Therefore, potassium chloride is not suitable for top dressing, and potassium sulfate or ash is just that.
• At least tomatoes need 3-4 top dressings for their active growth and generous harvest.

The first dressing of tomatoes: after planting in the ground

When? For the first time tomatoes most effective feed 15 days after planting seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse (budding, beginning of flowering).

What to feed? If the soil was poorly fertilized before planting, make:

Infusion of bird droppings or mullein with ashes added, or
Herbal infusion (fermented herb),

Mineral fertilizers:

"Nitrophoska" - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water. Solution consumption: 1 liter under the bush.
Any other complete (complex) min. fertilizer.

If the soil was generously fertilized before planting, make:

Potassium magnesia - 1 teaspoon per 10-liter bucket of water, or
Potassium sulfate - 1 tbsp. spoon in a 10-liter bucket of water.

What should not be done? Apply nitrogen fertilizers at the first feeding, which will only cause rapid growth of greenery.

Second top dressing: during fruit set

When? The second time, tomatoes are fed 10 days after the second brush begins to bloom, when ovaries 1.5 cm in size appear on it (during fruit set).

What to feed? In a ready-made solution of mullein or bird droppings (10 liters), put 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complete mineral fertilizer, 3 g of copper sulfate and 3 g of potassium permanganate. Solution consumption: 1 liter - under undersized bushes, 1.5 liters - under determinant, 2 liters - under tall ones.

Top dressing for better fruit set:

• At the stage of active setting and pouring of fruits, tomatoes are fed with an aqueous extract of superphosphate at a dosage of 1 teaspoon per 10-liter bucket of water (superphosphate is poured with hot water). Watering plants under the root with such a solution accelerates fruit set.
• Improves fruit set and foliar feeding: 1 g of boric acid and 1 g of magnesium sulfate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is sprayed with plants at the stage of active flowering.
• Stimulates the formation of ovaries on tomatoes, a very affordable remedy - ash. It is simply scattered on the surface of the earth under a bush or a solution is prepared: 10 teaspoons of wood ash in a 10-liter bucket of water. The solution is insisted for 7 days, and then the tomatoes are watered. The solution prepared according to the recipe also accelerates the growth and ripening of fruits.

Third dressing: during fruiting

When? At the beginning of the removal of fruits, that is, during fruiting.

What to feed? You can use the solution of the second top dressing, increasing the dose for tall varieties to 2.5 - 3 liters per bush.
If tomatoes are fattening, that is, greens are formed in excess, but there are no flowers, nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be excluded and fertilizing with wood ash infusion (100 g per 10 liters of water) or superphosphate (its water extract).

Foliar top dressing of tomatoes

Foliar top dressing is done as needed.

1. Nutrition for growth

It happens that even before flowering, tomatoes do not grow well, the stems of plants are thin and weak, and the leaves are light. Foliar top dressing with a solution of urea at a dosage of 1 teaspoon per 10-liter bucket of water will help out. Foliar top dressing of tomatoes is often combined with treatment against pests and diseases.

2. If the flowers fall...

This means that due to overheating of the air in the greenhouse, the pollination process was disrupted. Foliar top dressing with boric acid at a dosage of 1 teaspoon per 10-liter bucket of water will help out.

3. If the lighting is not enough...

Spray the leaves with a solution of calcium nitrate at a dosage of 10-15 g per 10-liter bucket of water. Top dressing will also help out in case of twisting the top leaves, it will also be useful for better pouring tomatoes.

4. If the plants are weakened and thin ...

After root dressing with nitrogen fertilizers, the leaves are sprayed with a solution: 10 g of urea and 15 g of calcium nitrate per 10-liter bucket of water.

Top dressing of tomatoes in open ground or greenhouse - is there a difference? What types of top dressings are there? What to feed tomatoes? What top dressing is better, root or foliar? In recent years, gardeners (those I know) prefer organic when feeding tomatoes, trying to use less mineral fertilizers, but they do not completely abandon them. Home-made cheap, but very effective "green manure" is very popular. But about him, a little lower.

So, two weeks have passed since you planted tomato seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground. It's time to feed.

Variety Evpator

Types of dressings

There are two types of supplements. Root and non-root.

Root is used by most gardeners. It nourishes plants through the root system, that is, it is watering with a nutritious mineral or organic solution under the root.

Many people know about foliar, but they use it less often, but in vain.

Foliar - this is when we apply the same nutrient solution directly on top of the leaves, branches of plants. This type of fertilizing with mineral or organic fertilizers has a number of advantages.

First, it allows you to save fertilizer. Because when we bring them under tomatoes, a significant part of the nutrients is washed out with watering or during rain. Not all nutrients get to the plant.

And when we apply the solution on top of the leaf, then all the nutrients pass through the leaf into the plant. And it happens very quickly. Therefore, foliar acts much faster than root.

Secondly, it is used to quickly help a plant suffering from a lack of one or another trace element. I try to use foliar feeding more often for seedlings, for plants recently planted, that is, for younger seedlings.

For foliar, lower concentrations of the solution are used than for root, so as not to cause leaf burn. For it, fertilizers are used that completely dissolve without sediment and do not contain chlorine. Usually these are liquid forms of fertilizer mixtures, whether they are mineral or organic. Try to use non-chlorinated water for the preparation of nutrient solutions - rain or at least settled tap water.

Both root and foliar top dressing are equally useful for open ground tomatoes, for greenhouse ones. During the first half of the growing season, it is better to alternate them. In the second - go to the root. A greenhouse with high humidity should be ventilated more often, especially after spraying. In order for the plant to get the maximum benefit from any fertilizer, you need to know when - in the morning, in the afternoon, in the evening - it is better to carry them out.

Foliar top dressing

One reader of our blog - Anna Nepetrovskaya from Novokubansk - shared her experience in using foliar and root dressings of tomatoes. The experience, as far as I can tell, is invaluable.

Look at Anna's tomato alleys! Isn't this proof that her fertilization strategy is right!

Tomato alley of Anna Nepetrovskaya (Novokubansk) - variety Cio-Cio-San

Start feeding tomatoes should be a week after planting.

Here are the compositions of foliar top dressing she uses:

1. One liter of milk or whey + 10 drops of iodine + 9 liters of water.
2. Microfertilizer Zdraven + Fitosporin - dosage according to the instructions.
3. Milk whey (2 liters) + 0.5 cups of sugar + 15 drops of iodine + 8 liters of water.
4. Bifungin (birch mushroom (chaga) - dilute with water to a dark color.
5. One teaspoon of boric acid, copper sulfate, magnesia + manganese at the tip of a knife + coarsely grated laundry soap or 3 tbsp. l. liquid soap diluted with 10 liters of water.
6. Trichopolum (10 tablets) + 1 small vial of brilliant green + 10 liters of water.
7. 1 teaspoon of boric acid, copper sulfate, urea (kabamide) per 10 liters of water.
8. Weak solution of manganese.
9. Lactic acid solutions (whey) with the addition of 0.5 cups of sugar (10 liters).

All these solutions for foliar feeding are very effective for nutrition, protection of tomatoes from fungal diseases, especially from phytophthora.

You need to apply them not at the same time, but, or in turn, as it is written, or choose those that, in your opinion, will bring the greatest benefit to the crop. With the accumulation of experience, you yourself will determine "what is yours."

Alternate foliar top dressing with root. Below is again the experience of our reader from Novokubansk.

Root top dressing

Anna advises that before each fertilizer, pour the tomatoes under the root with clean water - settled tap or rain water.

The first root - not earlier than 10 days after planting seedlings.

The second - 15 days (two weeks) after the first.

The third top dressing will be most effective during the beginning of flowering. Namely, during the flowering of the second brush. On the first brush, many gardeners advise picking off a double flower, since the fruit is most often tied up ugly, different from others. (But I would not call this recommendation mandatory - I very rarely saw such a flower in my house).

1. One tablespoon of ammonium nitrate + 10 liters of water. Ammonium nitrate can be replaced with infusions of chicken or cow manure. The proportions are as follows: 0.5 liters of chicken infusion or 1 liter of cow manure + 10 liters of water.
2. Composition - 0.5 liters of chicken manure infusion + 2 tablespoons of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate + 10 liters of water. Please note that superphosphate is very poorly soluble in water. Therefore, it is necessary to start preparing this solution at least a day before use. First, dissolve the superphosphate - let it stand for at least 24 hours, and only then add other components. By the way, superphosphate can be replaced with monophosphate (phosphorus fertilizer).
3. Ingredients: 0.5 liters of infusion of chicken manure or cow manure + 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate + 7 grams of boric acid + 10 liters of water. Pour 1.5 liters of solution under each bush, not forgetting to water the plants with clean, settled water before that.
4. Once a month, Anna advises root dressing with organic fertilizer. She calls it "Kurdyumov's compote", and I have this "green manure". The process of its preparation is described in detail below.
5. Every 2 weeks, it does not hurt to fertilize the tomatoes with an ash solution - pour 1 glass of ash with a bucket of water, let it brew for several hours. The ash solution contains potassium, calcium, phosphorus, many different trace elements necessary for the development of plants.

When to Feed Your Tomatoes

A very important point: if you are doing foliar or root dressing, then this should be done in the morning or in the evening. Why is that? If we are talking about foliar, then the nutrient solution should be on top of the leaves for as long as possible so that it can be absorbed. And in bright sunshine, spraying the leaves can cause a burn. This is first. And secondly, the sun will quickly dry up the droplets of the nutrient solution, it will not have time to be completely absorbed by the leaves. When foliar, it should be ensured that the solution gets not only from the top of the sheet, but from the bottom too.

Under the root, watering the plants with a mineral or organic solution is also necessary early in the morning or in the evening. I prefer evening watering. And my dacha neighbor waters his cucumbers, tomatoes in a greenhouse or open field only early in the morning. The reasons also seem to be clear: water or a nutrient solution that has fallen on the leaves during the day can cause their sunburn. Tomatoes should not be forced to spend energy repairing or healing wounds.

How often should you fertilize

Usually they ask the question, how often should I fertilize tomatoes with mineral or organic fertilizers? The short answer is not very often. And, to be more precise, I spend them as root, also foliar in 10-15 days. That is, about 2-3 times a month. I alternate them. Once - foliar, the next time - I feed the tomatoes under the root.

People often ask: is it permissible to fertilize tomatoes during fruiting? I answer: after the ovaries have appeared, top dressing is only under the root, that is, root.

I do foliar spraying during the first half of the growing season. That is, as soon as I noticed that the first fruits were tied up, I stop feeding by spraying. And I continue to do the root throughout the entire growing season (development).

The second popular question: feeding seedlings after picking - how, when. The first time you should fertilize tomatoes 10-12 days after planting seedlings. And than when read above.

Desirable, I would even say, obligatory foliar, root top dressing when the flowering of tomatoes begins. Do not miss the deadlines - the number of ovaries, the harvest will depend on this.

In a greenhouse or open ground, top dressing is carried out as follows. Each plant needs to be fertilized individually. If the soil under the tomatoes is dry, then before feeding it is necessary to slightly moisten the bed. We pour clean water, the temperature of which is not lower than 20-22ºС. When watering greenhouse plants, try not to get water on the leaves - excess moisture is useless there. Water in the morning - after that, be sure to ventilate the greenhouse. And after watering, pour half a liter of nutrient solution under each bush.

I try to do foliar spraying of tomatoes in the greenhouse in the morning so that the nutrient solution is absorbed by the evening. At night, leaves, stems, fruits should be dry.

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse or open field

If you have little time for care or it is difficult to find all the components of top dressing that Anna Nepetrovskaya advises, then you can use humate-based fertilizers.

I used Kuznetsov's GUMI (a natural fertility elixir) - the tomatoes acquired a good appearance, pleased with the harvest. 10 liters of water + 2 tablespoons of elixir.

But you can start from the range of your gardening stores. Not bad to use Gumat-80, Gumat+7, Gumat-Universal, Emerald, Ideal. For 10 liters of water, 1-2 tablespoons of fertilizer is enough. Here, add 1 tablespoon of instant mineral fertilizer (for example, Fertika Universal).

For each plant, 0.5 liters of solution is sufficient.

Open ground or greenhouse tomatoes are better not to feed than to overfeed. Therefore, when planting seedlings from mineral fertilizers, I use only ash and compost. After planting - fertilizer based on humates with Fertika Universal. All. The following top dressings are only organic.

How to make your own organic "green manure"

I really like the positive reaction of my tomatoes to the "green manure". How do I prepare it? Very simple. There are a lot of recipes for such a "green manure". Its basis is mowed green weed grass.

I have an old metal 200 liter barrel. But a metal barrel is not advised to use for the preparation of this fertilizer, apparently, the oxidation process adversely affects the quality. I don't have a plastic barrel. You know, there are almost no hopeless situations. I bought huge 300-liter plastic bags. I put one bag into another (for strength), placed them inside the barrel. Filled 1/3 with water to straighten them. The polyethylene warmed up a little by the sun, became elastic, stretched, the bags were tightly dressed outside on the edge of the barrel. I got a metal barrel with a plastic liner.

So, I already had a little water in the barrel, I add mowed grass there. Experienced gardeners advise filling the barrel with cut nettles. But I didn’t have so many nettles, so I sketched an almost full (2/3) barrel of various weeds. Nettle was there too.

From above, I threw about 1 kg of wood ash, half a bucket of chicken manure, added 2 liters of milk "store" whey (natural, they say, 1 liter is enough), a pack of baker's yeast (100 g). I added water almost to the top.

This recipe was taken long ago from the book “Smart Farming” by Yu.I. Sweetie. He calls this solution an infusion of microbial organisms. The author recommends adding mash instead of yeast - 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, 150 g of sugar, leave for 2-3 days.

The solution ferments very actively, the stench, sorry for the details, is not the most pleasant. And you need to mix the fertilizer at least once a day. All this is infused for 1.5-2 weeks. Then I take out the fermented grass. When it dries up, I put it under the zucchini. Why under the zucchini - I do not know. It's been like that from the very beginning. The zucchini are very grateful.

You can try using this mulch on other plants.

A little more than half of the nutritious infusion in a barrel is obtained. I top up the barrel. I take a ready-made infusion (500 ml), add it to a watering can with water (6 l), water tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, pumpkins - half a liter of solution for each bush. Yes, I almost forgot. The effect will be better, as well as top dressing will not bring harm. There will be no root burn if the soil under the plants is watered first. That is, before fertilizing under the root, be sure to water the tomatoes in the open field or greenhouse with settled water, if you use tap water or rain water.

I really like the result of such organic feeding - the plants are always green, they look healthy, they tolerate bad weather well, they grow very quickly, a lot of fruits are tied and, it seems to me, they began to get sick less, that is, their immunity has increased.

This solution can be carried out root and foliar top dressing. I usually spend foliar for young plants planted in open ground or a greenhouse. Watering under the root - every 10-12 days.

I have enough of this solution for a long time. But everything, of course, depends on the number of plants planted. If I feel that the “green manure” is not enough, then after less than half of it remains in the barrel, I add new grass. I don't add anything else but water. I wait 10-15 days - a new nutrient solution is ready.

But it is not in vain that they say, live a century - learn a century. I did not do everything right when preparing this fertilizer. Read to the end and you will understand why.

This "green manure" works well against late blight. At least, it seems to me that after I started using it, there were almost no cases of phytophthora on leaves, fruits. In 2013, only a few fruits (5 pieces) growing in open ground were thrown out from one bush. On the rest of the bushes, I did not notice any signs of phytophthora. And the next two years there were no phytophthora either. Although I suspect that the reason for this is not only top dressing, but also dry hot summers.

But, for example, the 2014 garden year began with rainy weather. Humidity, both in the greenhouse and in the garden, is high. To prevent the appearance of late blight on tomatoes, powdery or downy mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, I additionally treat the plants with a solution of whey (1 liter + 10 liters of water) with 10 drops of iodine. This solution is especially beneficial for tomatoes. Iodine helps to increase the number of ovaries, and whey inhibits the growth and development of pathogenic fungi.

For the prevention of late blight, I alternate treatments. Once with a solution of whey, and the other with a solution of Fitosporin. This drug not only protects tomatoes from the development of late blight, it also nourishes the plants with bioactivated microelements, especially its new modification - Fitosporin-M. Sometimes I skip lactic acid treatment, but I always replace it with Fitosporin solution, which well suppresses the development of fungal, bacterial diseases on plants.

Do not forget that moisture, high humidity in greenhouses or gardens during the rainy period is beneficial for the development of phytophthora, other fungal, bacterial diseases. Be sure to treat your seedlings, do not wait for the first signs of the disease to appear. If the disease began to manifest itself, then it is too late to fight it, it is almost useless.

So, the answer to the main question. What fertilizers, what top dressings are the best for tomatoes? Mineral or organic?

I would answer like this. For young seedlings - foliar, complex. For tomatoes during the second half of the growing season, it is best to use natural mineral fertilizers (ash, compost), also organic (based on humates, "green fertilizer"). In order not to overfeed the plants, fertilizing is carried out infrequently - 2-3 times a month - more often in the first half of the growing season, and less often in the second.

P.S. Just a few days ago I watched one video and realized that I didn’t prepare the “green fertilizer” quite correctly. The author of the video is a biologist. I have no reason not to believe him. Moreover, my knowledge of biology is at the school level, and even that is not very high.

So, the specialist advises, after filling the barrel with all the ingredients, tightly wrap it with some kind of air-tight material. Film, for example. Spunbond is not suitable for this purpose, as it allows air to pass through. And the process of fermentation in the water column should, according to the biologist, take place in conditions without access to oxygen. In this case, a significantly larger amount of humic substances is formed in the solution. Such a fertilizer will have a much higher value than the one that I received in an open barrel. Apparently, for the same reason, the liquid in the barrel should not be stirred daily.

Here is the video. I advise you to look.

Happy harvest!

Properly preparing the soil for planting, growing healthy seedlings does not mean that you will have a good tomato crop. During the season, tomatoes go through several stages of development at each of them; tomatoes require their own set of nutrients.

Signs of a lack of nutrients in a tomato

Not always weak tomato seedlings are a consequence of infection or the presence of insect pests. External symptoms may indicate a nutritional deficiency. Knowing these signs, you can help the tomato with the help of timely top dressing.

With a lack of nitrogen, old leaves turn yellow in tomato bushes, the stems become thinner and stretched in length, the leaf plates are small, their color is not bright green, but pale, almost white. To eliminate nitrogen deficiency, mineral or organic fertilizers containing it are needed.

When tomatoes lack phosphorus, a bluish tint appears on the stems and leaves, if you look at the underside of old leaves, a purple tint is clearly visible. With a deficiency of phosphorus, the roots develop poorly, the plant lags behind in growth. The problem is solved with the help of any fertilizer containing phosphorus.

Symptoms of potassium deficiency:

• young leaves curl;
• old leaves turn yellow at first, then dry up;
• brown spots appear on the leaves.

The deficiency is filled with potassium nitrate, the dosage is taken from the instructions for the drug.

With a lack of magnesium, the leaf plates are curled up. If the tomatoes lack zinc, then gray-brown spots appear on the old leaves, the young leaves almost do not increase in size and become covered with yellow dots. Spraying the bushes with magnesium nitrate (5 g per 10 liters) eliminates the problem.

The lack of calcium during fruiting contributes to the appearance of vertex rot on the fruits, a border similar to a burn appears on young leaves, calcium nitrate saves. With a lack of boron:

• the color falls off;
• growing points die off;
• the plant forms many stepchildren;
• there is a deformation of the tops of the central and lateral shoots.

Iron deficiency begins to appear with a change in the color of the lower leaves. They first turn pale, then begin to turn yellow, while the veins retain their green color.

Iron deficiency leads to slower growth of tomato bushes. Eliminate the deficiency with iron sulphate.

Types of feeding tomatoes

When growing a tomato in open ground and in a greenhouse, it is necessary to properly organize the nutrition of tomatoes, use two types of dressings:

• foliar;
• root.

Foliar top dressing is carried out by spraying tomato bushes with nutrient solutions. Fertilizers, falling on the leaves, are absorbed faster. It is advisable to carry out foliar top dressing in certain cases:

• bad weather;
• the plant is weakened;
• obvious nutritional deficiency.

For foliar top dressing, it is worth purchasing an industrial sprayer with a volume of about 8-10 liters. Plants are treated in the evening or early morning, this helps to avoid sunburn on the leaves.

Important! Make no mistake, do not feed tomatoes at the root if the weather has been cool for more than 3 days. Nutrients are absorbed when air and soil temperatures are above 15°C.

All summer residents are engaged in root dressing. Any liquid fertilizer tomato bushes are watered under the root. A prerequisite: the tomatoes must be watered the day before, this will protect the roots from burns.

How to feed tomatoes folk remedies

Consider popular folk recipes for dressing tomato seedlings after transplanting to a permanent place.

Iodine

Many summer residents do not believe in the benefits of iodine for tomatoes and in vain. Iodine helps plants absorb nitrogen in the soil, which stimulates the growth of green mass of tomatoes. From sowing seeds for seedlings until the end of the growing season, no more than 3 top dressings with iodine are carried out:

• the first time - seedlings in the phase of 2 true leaves;
• the second time - during the formation of flower ovaries;
• the third and last top dressing - during fruiting.

The main benefit of feeding with iodine during the formation of buds is an increase in the number of flowers, they form much more.

Important! Plants can be fed with iodine both under the root and along the leaf.

Watering with water with iodine during the fruiting period guarantees:

• accelerated maturation;
• increase in fruit size;
• increase in the sugar content of the pulp.

Preparing water for irrigation is easy. 1 drop of iodine is dripped onto 3 liters of warm water and fertilizer for watering tomatoes under the root can be used. For an adult plant, 1 liter of liquid is consumed. Do not water the soil before fertilizing.

Ash

Ash is a universal remedy that protects tomatoes from pests and diseases, making up for the lack of nutrients. Top dressing with ash is especially useful in cool weather, which in our northern latitudes occurs just after transplanting tomato seedlings into the ground (greenhouse).

When the soil is cold, tomatoes do not absorb potassium well, so in cool weather it is better to carry out the first top dressing with instant ash infusion. After transplanting seedlings, at least 10-14 days should pass.

The sequence of quick preparation of ash infusion for feeding tomatoes:

• we take a container with a volume of up to 80-100 liters;
• fill it with water;
• for every 10 liters of water, pour 0.5 liters of wood ash;
• mix everything well and top dressing from the ash is ready.

Important! There should be no chlorine in the water. Ash is only wood or made from grass. Ash obtained from the combustion of other materials (cellophane, wallpaper) is not suitable.

It is best to prepare an infusion from rainwater. The solution can be used immediately after preparation. On one root you need to pour 0.5 liters of infusion. The benefit of feeding with ash is that tomato bushes receive and quickly absorb:

• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• calcium.

These are exactly the elements that tomato seedlings need to adapt and grow after transplanting into the ground (greenhouse).

Yeast

For cooking, we take a plastic bottle with a volume of 5-6 liters. Pour warm water into it.

Important! The water temperature must not exceed 38 °C. If you use hotter water, the yeast will not work.

• water 3 liters;
• 1 pack of any dry yeast;
• sugar 10 tablespoons.

We mix all the ingredients, close the bottle with a cork and put it in a warm room for 4-8 hours. It is worth preparing the solution in the morning, because it is worth feeding the tomatoes in the evening.

For root and foliar top dressing, a non-concentrated infusion is used, it is diluted with plain water:

• 3 parts of the mash;
• 7 parts water.

Tomatoes are pre-watered, after which 1 liter jar of yeast water should be poured onto each bush. Under the root, tomatoes can be fed 1 time in 14 days.

Important! Feed your tomatoes in the evening. There will be no sunburn on the leaves, nutrients will be better absorbed.

Yeast foliar top dressings are useful for tomatoes. They serve as an excellent prevention of fungal diseases. The working solution is used in the same concentration. The frequency of treatments is not more than one in 2 weeks. You can feed tomatoes with yeast throughout the season.

chicken manure

In chicken manure, all the nutrients are in a form that is convenient for assimilation by tomatoes. If you want to get a rich crop of tomatoes, then make the first top dressing after transplantation with a solution of fresh chicken manure.

It does not need to be insisted, you can use it immediately after preparation. We prepare it, strictly observing the proportions:

• 1 part liquid, fresh chicken manure;
• 10 parts rain or settled tap water.

Water the tomato beds well the day before. Mix the chicken manure solution several times and pour no more than 1 liter into each well. Exceeding the concentration of the solution or dose during irrigation has a bad effect on seedlings.

Reference. Do not throw away the thick remaining at the bottom, pour it under any fruit-bearing tree or shrub.

Mullein

Mullein is a fertilizer that benefits all types of plants, especially tomatoes. It is a fertilizer complete in composition of micro- and macroelements. The list of what you need to prepare a solution of mullein:

• plastic bucket with a volume of 10-15 liters;
• cow cakes (fresh);
• pour ¼ of the total volume into a bucket of cakes;
• fill the rest of the bucket with water;
• cover the bucket with a lid and leave for a week to infuse.

The present solution must be mixed. In a bucket (10 liters) add 1 liter of mullein infusion and mix well. Use the prepared fertilizer immediately, spending 1 bucket per square meter.

Nettle

We are learning how to prepare original nettle fertilizer. Nettle as a fertilizer is used precisely after transplanting seedlings into the ground. This is the plant that contains the maximum amount of nitrogen. And nitrogen, as you know, is needed for tomatoes to quickly build up green mass.

For cooking, we take a container (bucket) of 10-15 liters, fill it with 70 percent chopped nettles. We also send a decent dose of any jam there. Many will have a question, what is it for. The answer is simple - lactic acid bacteria, which we want to breed in our infusion, love sweets.

Important! Add 1 cup of nettle infusion prepared in this way to a bucket of water.

Add water and 0.5 l of Baikal EM solution to the container. For the bacteria to work well, we tightly wrap the bucket with a film, it must be removed 2 times a day and the contents of the bucket mixed. A week later, a fertilizer rich in nitrogen and beneficial microorganisms is ready.

The specific smell and decomposed remains of nettles indicate the readiness of the fertilizer. This fertilizer can be applied before the flowering of the tomato, later other plants containing not nitrogen, but potassium are needed.

When to Feed Your Tomatoes

During the season, 3 root dressings are carried out. The first, very important top dressing, is carried out 10-12 days after transplanting tomato seedlings into the ground. There are many fertilizer options. You can use mineral fertilizers. For example, nitrophoska: 1 tbsp. l per bucket of water, consumption of 1 liter of solution per 1 bush.

With high-quality soil preparation before planting using the whole complex of organic and mineral fertilizers, it is enough to fertilize the seedlings:

• potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water);
• potassium magnesia (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).

From organic fertilizers, at the first stage of development, herbal infusions or solutions of mullein, or chicken manure are used.

The second time the tomatoes should be fed during flowering. Take a solution of mullein (10 l), add to it:

• complete mineral fertilizer 1 tbsp. l;
• copper sulfate 3 g;
• potassium permanganate 3 g

The consumption of the working solution for dwarf tomatoes is 1 liter, for determinant-type bushes - 1.5 liters, for indeterminate plants - 2 liters.

In order for the fruits to be better tied, root dressings alternate with foliar ones. On the bushes there is an active formation of ovaries after spraying the bushes during flowering with a solution of boric acid. For 10 liters of water, you need 1 gram of boric acid and magnesium sulfate.

The third dressing during fruiting should be carried out with ash infusion. How to cook it was described above. It is effective to use superphosphate during this period. Prepare the solution according to the instructions on the packaging.

The table shows the cases when foliar top dressing is needed for tomatoes.

By controlling the condition of the planted seedlings, applying fertilizers on time, you can grow strong tomato bushes with excellent immunity. Healthy plants always please with a good harvest, which is distinguished by its presentation, good taste and a long shelf life.

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