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Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse: rules, tips, recommendations. Industrial cultivation of cucumbers in a greenhouse Technology of cultivation of cucumbers in closed ground

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse gives better results than in open ground. In closed ground there are all the necessary conditions for this: high humidity, optimal temperature, and the possibility of shaping.

One of the important issues for a gardener is the choice of a greenhouse and its location. The greenhouse is chosen so that it is spacious in size and provides vegetables for the whole family. The optimal ratio of volume to area is 2:1. The height in the greenhouse should be on average 2 meters (more towards the center, less at the sides). The average height of the ridge is 2.5 meters.

A lower height is undesirable, since cucumber vines grow to 3-3.5 meters during the season. And it is not advisable to do it higher, since the air will warm up more slowly. The greenhouse must have a ventilation system. Ideally, it would be automatic.

The greenhouse is placed on a flat surface or with a slight slope to the south. The direction of the greenhouse is the same: from north to south, for better lighting of the plants. A container is placed in the greenhouse to water the cucumbers only with warm water.

Choosing a variety for indoor soil

Self-pollinating or parthenocapic cucumber varieties are suitable for indoor soil. Both do not need bees. Plants set fruit in closed ground conditions without external intervention. But the process of ovary formation itself occurs in different ways.

Self-pollinating cucumbers are those in which pollination occurs as a result of pollen being transferred from the stamens to the pistil within one flower. In this case, the plant does not have female and male flowers, and accordingly, there are no barren flowers.

Parthenocapic is translated as “virgin”, that is, the cucumber sets without pollination. In adulthood, parthenocapic fruits are always distinguished by their appearance. They have virtually no seeds. And if they exist, they are very tiny, in their infancy.

Among self-pollinating varieties there are varieties and hybrids. The variety differs from a hybrid in that it is a fairly stable form that transmits its basic qualities through the seeds. If you buy a variety of cucumber once, you can plant it year after year, collecting the seeds yourself. Its varietal characteristics will be preserved.

Currently, hybrids are more common; they are designated in their names as F1. Such cucumbers do not transmit their qualities through seeds, so gardeners have to buy them every year. If this is not done, then splitting occurs in the second generation, and it is not known exactly what characteristics will appear as a result.

Let's consider several popular varieties and hybrids for greenhouses and greenhouses:

Adam F1. Dutch self-pollinating high-yielding hybrid. Valued for setting fruit very early. In just a month and a half you can start harvesting. The second undoubted advantage is the extended fruiting period. Cucumbers are arranged 5-7 together. With insufficient care, 2-4 fruits are tied in the knot. Cucumbers grow not only beautiful in appearance: dark, small, with small thorns. They are delicious both prepared and fresh.

Zyatek F1. A very popular parthenocapic hybrid. It is loved for its early ripening, the first fruits appear already on the 40th day. The bouquet arrangement of the ovaries is also appreciated. The cucumbers of this hybrid are gherkin-type, cylindrical in shape. They do not grow large; growth stops at 14-16 cm. The fruits of this variety are tasty and productive.

F1 is the envy of everyone. Despite the fact that this hybrid appeared relatively recently, it has already become popular among gardeners due to its super-yielding and bunched arrangement of fruits. The variety's lashes are powerful. They develop right up to frost and produce an excellent harvest on the side shoots. The thin skin makes it possible to use these fruits both fresh and pickled.

Well-fed dad F1. One of the salad varieties for indoor soil. Long, smooth, cylindrical fruits are suitable for salad and fresh consumption. This variety is not suitable for whole-fruit canning, but it is just right for preparing lecho and other preparations where chopped fruits are needed. Just like the previous ones, this variety has bunched ovaries, is early ripening and disease resistant.

Ecole F1. One of the new, very successful parthenocapic hybrids. This cucumber is suitable for those who can preserve pickles (greens 3-6 cm). That is why it can be picked within 35-38 days after the first shoots appear. Ecole's greens are smooth, cylindrical, and grow in bunches. They are collected every day so that they do not overgrow.

Chinese cold-resistant F1. From the popular series of long and sweet cucumbers. It is suitable for growing in greenhouses, where it is easier to tie it up. Its lashes are powerful and grow quickly. The fruits themselves reach half a meter in length. Smooth and tasty cucumbers can be used in salads or prepared into slices for the winter.

The labels on the bags of cucumbers “Parthenocapic (self-pollinating)” are incorrect. A variety or hybrid can be one or the other. Most often we are talking about parthenocapics.

Soil preparation

The preparatory planting process begins with the soil. If you grow cucumbers through seedlings, then first you need to prepare or buy a special mixture in which you will plant the seeds.

Cucumbers love loose and fertile soil, which means that they need the same soil for sowing seeds. The soil should not only be light, but also moisture-retaining, which is very important for cucumbers who like to “drink.” That is why it is better to exclude peat from the composition or use it in small quantities. Store-bought soil, which most often contains a lot of peat, begins to dry out quickly at home.

Watch out for acidity, it is peat that is acidic. In order for cucumbers to develop normally, the pH level should be approximately 6.5-7.

Composition of the substrate for cucumber seedlings:

turf soil - 3 parts;
humus or fully matured compost - 2 parts;
sand - 1 part.

This mixture must be sifted so that there are no large parts. The mixture can be heated in the oven for 10-20 minutes or frozen. It is best to prepare the mixture in advance, in the fall, and put it in a bag. Place the bag on the balcony to kill pathogens. Before sowing, add a liter of vermiculite to the mixture bucket for looseness, a glass of ash and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate.

Properly preparing seeds for sowing

Previously, before germination, gardeners performed a procedure such as heating the seeds. This is long-term heating of dry seeds near heating devices at a temperature of 30-35 degrees.

Such events have a positive effect on increasing the formation of female flowers in all pumpkin plants.

When preparing self-pollinating and parthenocapic hybrids for sowing, the seeds do not need to be heated, since they do not have the problem of forming barren flowers.

Nowadays, seeds that have already been treated with thiram are often sold. Information is contained on the packaging. The seeds are colored poisonous green as a warning about the toxicity of the applied substance. Thiram is a fungicide that is used against a complex of diseases. Such seeds are not soaked or germinated.

If you have ordinary seeds, then they need to be treated with some kind of fungicide or a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. When there are many varieties, you need to put them in gauze bags and place them in the prepared solution for 15-20 minutes.

After this, you need to wash the seeds and start germination. Germination does not affect the yield, but avoids planting empty seeds.

Before germination, the seeds should be placed in a small amount of water for several hours or overnight to swell. The water should cover the seeds a little so that they do not “suffocate”. There is no need to harden cucumbers because they do not have the cold tolerance gene.

Advantages of the seedling method:

allows you to get results earlier than when sowing seeds;
the plant will grow and become stronger in comfortable conditions;
sorting is possible: you can see which plants develop better and which worse;
some seeds do not germinate immediately or freeze during seedling growth.

Plants of the same height will be easier to care for. The rest can be planted in a corner so that plants of the same type grow in one place. Such measures will allow you to get an early and healthy harvest.

Growing seedlings

In order for growing seedlings to become an advantage, you need to try to do it correctly. Cucumbers ready for planting should not be overgrown, strong, and without signs of disease. The ideal option is 3-4 sheets.

For sowing, take separate cups at once so that the root system is formed correctly. If this is not possible, then seeds are planted in trays at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Seeds must be properly prepared and germinated. The sprouts are small, so-called “beaks”, so as not to break them.

Before planting, the hole in which the seed is placed is spilled with hot water and a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sprinkle the cucumber seed on top with loose soil in a 2 cm layer.

If possible, cover the container with cucumbers with a damp rag or plastic bag for 1-3 days until seedlings appear.

Preparing soil in a greenhouse

Cucumbers love loose and fertile soil. This is what fertile loams are. Clay is too heavy for them and lacks breathability. The sand is loose, but it does not hold water, and without it, cucumbers will not grow. As a last resort, sandy loam is suitable, to which you can add a little heavy clay soil to balance the composition.

In a greenhouse, you need to prepare the soil in advance. You can plant green manure immediately after harvesting vegetables, and dig up with them before frost. The best option would be mustard greens. It will disinfect the soil and enrich it with valuable microelements.

With the onset of winter, you need to throw snow into the greenhouse so that in the spring moisture saturates the soil. After all the snow has melted, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up. The holes must be prepared in advance before planting seedlings. The ideal option is warm ridges, because cucumber is a very heat-loving crop.

They can be made both in autumn and spring. If this is not possible, then humus or compost mixed with ash and double superphosphate is placed in the prepared furrows or holes: half a glass of superphosphate and a liter of ash per bucket. Then sprinkle with 10-20 cm of loose soil.

If you change the soil in the greenhouse in the fall or spring, then you should take into account that you need to take the soil from those areas where the day before you grew vegetables that do not have common diseases with cucumbers: cabbage, onions, carrots, peppers or potatoes.

Transplanting

Seedlings are planted in the ground when the soil temperature reaches 15°C. This is a very important point. The air temperature in the greenhouse is important, but of secondary importance. Although any shelter for growing cucumbers should be equipped with a thermometer.

Cucumbers love warmth, and soil temperature is especially important to them. For objectivity, you need to take measurements in the morning. Experienced gardeners cover the place where the temperature will be measured with a board or plywood so that the place is not heated by the sun.

A thermometer is placed under the shelter to a depth of approximately 20 cm and left for 15-30 minutes. This way you get a fairly objective result. In order for the soil to heat up faster, it can be covered with plastic film, and also a warm ridge can be made.

But it starts to work only at a certain temperature, so you first need to spill it with hot water and then cover it with film. To activate biofuel on cold days, you will have to do this several times before the start of the season.

We plant seedlings like this. First, we make a hole in the hole already filled with fertilizers the size of the cucumber’s root system. We leave the distance between future plants about 40-60 cm. Then you need to pour warm water with the addition of a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

The seedlings must be buried to the cotyledon leaves or the first true one. The soil around is compacted a little, and the surrounding area can be sprinkled with dry soil.

You can additionally mulch the beds with cucumbers to retain heat in the soil.

Optimal conditions for the growth of cucumbers

There is a reason why cucumbers and tomatoes are planted separately. Although some manage to get good results by growing them together. Cucumbers need special conditions to grow and have a good harvest: light, heat, humidity, watering and others. The growing conditions for cucumbers are almost the same as for all pumpkins.

Watering

Cucumber is a very responsive crop to watering. It must be regular, without this the harvest will not be good. In dry years, it may not exist at all, since the water is instantly absorbed by the soil. Watering in a greenhouse or hotbed should be done frequently; the leaves should not be allowed to wilt.

This feature is associated with the structure of the cucumber root system. It is located close to the soil surface, so the plant does not have the opportunity to take water from the depths, as, for example, tomatoes do. The health of the plant depends on how often you water it. In hot weather, when fruits are forming, this should be done every day.

Cucumbers are recommended to be irrigated using the sprinkling method. With this method, water is poured out in small drops, partially evaporating. This increases the air humidity in the greenhouse, which is very important for cucumbers. The soil is gradually saturated with water, which allows the roots to better absorb moisture.

Water consumption per 1 m2 is approximately 15-25 liters per day or every other day, depending on the weather. When fruits form, water consumption increases and amounts to 20-30 liters.

Do not water cucumbers with cold water. They used to say that this makes the fruits bitter. Now the fruits are genetically sweet, but cold water is not advisable for watering because it increases the likelihood of plant disease.

Feeding

We must not forget about fertilizing. Cucumbers grow rapidly, and modern hybrids produce very high yields. In order for the plant to be able to “feed” them, it is necessary to apply fertilizer 1-2 times a month, literally from the first days.

Fertilizers are organic and mineral. Organic are natural fertilizers. These include manure, green fertilizer from grass, ash, and chicken droppings. When growing seedlings, only ash is used from the listed fertilizers when preparing the substrate for sowing seeds.

Before planting in the ground, seedlings are fed 1-2 times with mineral fertilizers. Preference is given to nitrogen or complex ones with a predominance of nitrogen, because first the plant must increase its green mass and become stronger.

After planting in the ground, cucumbers are not fed for 2 weeks until the plant has completely taken root. In addition, there is usually enough nutrition in the holes. After this, you need to start “feeding” green fertilizer, a solution of mullein, chicken droppings and ash. From the beginning of flowering, potassium fertilizers are added.

Light mode

The time of fruiting, as well as the yield of cucumbers, depends on the intensity of light and the length of daylight hours. The second has a greater effect on plant growth. Cucumbers are short-day plants, so for full development they need a 10-12 hour day. During the period of growing seedlings, this is no less important. If there is not enough light, then conditions of 10-hour daylight hours are created using artificial lighting.

Temperature

Cucumber is a very heat-loving crop. If it's cold outside, you can't expect good harvests. In addition, the plants will be weakened, which will affect the increase in morbidity. The average temperature in the greenhouse should be maintained at 17°C. But for the first time after sowing, the temperature should be 25-28 degrees.

That's why it's better to grow cucumbers at home first. Severe cold spells have a negative impact on growth. But too high temperatures are also harmful to cucumbers.

If on hot days the temperature in the greenhouse is above 30C, then you need to ventilate and spray the plant to reduce the temperature.

Humidity

Cucumber has an increased need for air humidity. For cucumbers, this norm is 85-95%. If you compare it with peppers, the difference is very big. Peppers need a moisture content of 60-65%. At low humidity, the process of pollination and fruit set is significantly reduced.

Of the greenhouse crops, cucumber is perhaps the most moisture-demanding crop.

Ventilation

At first, when the cucumber seedlings are still small, you need to ventilate the rooms where they grow very carefully. Cucumbers do not tolerate drafts at all. And in the greenhouse it is necessary to ventilate, especially when the thermometer rises above 30C.

The windows are opened only on one side to avoid drafts.

Bush formation

In order for cucumbers to produce a bountiful harvest and bear fruit for a long time, the plant must be shaped correctly. There are a lot of opinions on this matter, but the overwhelming majority believes that formation is necessary.

Topping

Pinch the cucumber vines as follows:

the first 40-50 cm - the shoots “blind” completely;
pinch the next 40-50 cm above the first leaf;
the next 40-50 cm above the second;
then 40-50 cm above the third;
and so on.

Some gardeners cut off the plants' tendrils to save energy. For the same purpose, not all ovaries are left; some are removed. If it is noticed that when fruits are formed in bunches, some do not have enough nutrition and they begin to dry out, then one fruit at a time is left in the axils. In this case, watering and fertilizing are increased.

It turns out like a “herringbone” in reverse. At the end of growth, under the roof, the plants set fruits freely. Some people pinch the whip under the roof so that it does not waste energy on growth. All potential is spent on the formation of fruits.

It has been noticed that without pinching, the yield is significantly reduced.

Stepsoning

Stepsons on cucumbers are only appropriate when the stepsons are removed at the beginning of growth, half a meter above the soil surface. There is no need to do this higher, since many large ovaries are located on the side shoots. The meaning of pinching is that the plant’s forces are released for further growth and development.

For this procedure, carefully bend the leaf and remove the shoot with a cloth or knives. Subsequently, the leaves at the bottom of the vine dry out and the main stem becomes bare. There are many root primordia on it. If you lay the stem in a ring, roots will begin to grow very quickly in this place and the cucumber will have additional nutrition.

Tying up

Cucumbers are tied up in a greenhouse for the following reasons:

plants in this position are better illuminated by the sun;
the lashes are ventilated and the cucumbers get sick less;
they are easier to care for;
plants do not intertwine with each other;
Almost 100% of flowers and ovaries are preserved;
watering and loosening are simplified;
good visibility when picking fruit.

You need to start tying up the plant at one month of age, when its height reaches 30-40 cm. There are several types of materials from which ropes for cucumbers are made. Everyone chooses the best option for themselves. For some it is rags, for others it is nylon. Some people opt for synthetic twines, which are sold in hardware stores.

The length of one twine is 2-2.5 meters. One end is attached to the ceiling, and the other should freely go down. The lower end is carefully attached between the lower leaves. As the lash grows, it wraps clockwise around the twine.

Harvesting

Oddly enough, the regularity of harvesting affects the harvest itself. If cucumbers are not picked on time, they grow and develop further. The plant spends nutrients on them. Especially a lot of microelements go into the formation of seeds.

Therefore, the greens are collected when they reach a size of 10-15 cm. They are picked carefully, holding the whip with one hand so as not to damage them.

During the period when plants begin to bear fruit en masse, cucumbers are harvested once every 1-2 days, depending on the area of the greenhouse.

All diseased, dry and crooked fruits are removed without waiting for them to grow, as they deplete the plant.

Diseases and pests

Cucumbers require a moist and warm microclimate to grow. But it is precisely this environment that promotes the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms. And this can cause a number of diseases.

For prevention, the greenhouse is thoroughly washed in the spring using various non-aggressive detergents. For example, you can use laundry soap. For additional disinfection in a greenhouse or greenhouse, use a sulfur bomb.

It successfully fights fungal diseases and mold.

Before use in the greenhouse, carefully close not only the windows and doors, but also the cracks. The smoke from a sulfur bomb can penetrate even where other means cannot penetrate. And in order not to bring diseases along with the soil, it is taken for the greenhouse only where pumpkin crops have not grown for 3-4 years. Additionally, you can shed the soil with a weak solution of copper sulfate.

Cucumbers are not a very demanding crop. They grow well in closed ground, provided that the basic rules of planting, watering, and fertilizing are followed. With good care in summer cottages, you can harvest 5 or more kilograms of cucumbers per square meter. Considering that most fruits are picked in the gherkin state, this is a good result.

Cucumber is an annual herbaceous plant of the Cucurbitaceae family. It is grown in protected or open ground. In all cases, crop yield largely depends on the specific variety (or hybrid). In order for an amateur gardener not to make a mistake with his choice, he must know the difference between parthenocarpic and bee-pollinated cucumbers. This has nothing to do with the division of varieties and hybrids into pickling, salad and universal purposes.

The yield of this crop largely depends on the growing conditions. A vine left to itself will produce much less greenery than a well-formed plant.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers

Cucumber is a dioecious plant. This means that each plant has both male and female flowers. In addition, there are plants with a female flowering type and a male flowering type. Another option is female-flowering plants that have few male flowers. The yield of a cucumber depends on how well pollination goes. Parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids bear fruit better in a greenhouse. They are the ones that should be grown at home ().

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are able to bear fruit without pollination. Bee-pollinated cucumber varieties require additional flower pollination by bees to produce fruit. For some parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids, additional pollination is desirable to enhance fruit formation.

In the greenhouse, I sow several bee-pollinated varieties at the ends of the beds (closer to the doors). Insects pollinate them freely, since in the summer most of the time the doors and vents of the greenhouse are completely open.

Heating the beds with biofuel

For seed germination, growth and fruiting, cucumbers need warmth. Artificial lighting and special heating of greenhouses (hot water pipes, stoves, etc.) can extend the growing period of cucumbers by several months. The average gardener often uses the simplest methods for creating cucumbers. suitable microclimate. The main source of body and light is the sun. The quality of the covering of greenhouses or greenhouses determines how light and warm it will be there.

I grow cucumbers in a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate. Currently, there are a lot of greenhouse models. Huge selection and manufacturers. Prices and terms of assembly (and delivery) also vary greatly. You can read about how “more progressive” these greenhouses are and about some of the features of their use in my article.

In a greenhouse with any coating (film, glass, cellular polycarbonate, etc.), one should not miss such an opportunity as biological heating of the soil. The heat that is released during the decomposition of biological material (most often manure) expands the possibilities of sowing and growing cucumbers in the early stages. This is especially important in late and cold spring. The best manures for biofuels are horse and cow manure. Pork, sheep and rabbit are considered “cold”. They don't take long to heat up. All manure (except horse manure) is pre-mixed with chopped straw, sawdust, leaves or other organic matter for looseness.

Biofuel will not work unless it is preheated. Preparation begins a week before the manure is transferred to the greenhouse. Before this, it is folded on the site with a pitchfork so that several loose piles are formed. Now the biofuel needs to be heated. There are several ways. There are some that are quite simple. Quicklime is poured into the central part of the heap, which, after contact with water, gives “quick” heat. This method is good because heating can be done inside the greenhouse.

It’s another matter when manure is heated by fire or hot stones. For safety, the manure pile should be located outside the greenhouse. A fire is built in the middle of the dung heap. A sheet of metal is placed over the fire, leaving an open space for drafting. Sometimes a fire is lit in a designated place, after which stones heated by fire or hot charcoal and small charred pieces of wood are placed in the center of the pile.

The heated manure (40 - 60°C) is transferred to the greenhouse, spread out in a layer of about 20 cm. It is compacted and covered with film. After 5 days, the film is removed and the manure is powdered with fluff lime. Quicklime can be purchased at hardware stores and wherever gardening supplies are sold. It is covered with a layer of peat (5 cm) and soil on top (15 cm). Then be sure to water it with warm water and sow the seeds.

Sowing seeds

There is an opinion that only seedlings are suitable for planting in greenhouses. I recently gave up growing it in the house, because I don’t have enough light and warm space for it. In April everything is already occupied by other seedlings. True, sometimes neighbors give me “surplus”. At the beginning of May (sometimes even earlier), I sow dry seeds in warm soil in the greenhouse. As soon as they emerge, I thin them out. Sowing is done in two rows, which allows the vines to be planted on a net suspended between the rows.

At the same time, I sow beets (with swollen seeds) in the greenhouse (along the edge along the bed). Beetroot is a faithful companion of cucumber. This proximity allows you to economically use the greenhouse space, obtaining early beet tops for soup. By autumn, there are very few beets left growing next to the cucumber. Its roots and even leaf petioles are much juicier than beets that grow in open ground.

Some features of growing cucumber

The soil. The main requirements for the composition and structure of the soil are related to the fact that the cucumber has a weak tap root system. Most of the roots are located in the top layer of soil at a depth of up to 20 cm. However, individual roots go into the ground to a considerable depth. Therefore, cucumbers feel good only in loose, fertile soil mixture. It consists of loam, humus, peat and sand. The ratio of all these components depends on specific conditions and capabilities.

I know experienced gardeners who add the same amount of compost or manure humus, a lot of half-rotted sawdust, a small amount of peat and sand to the turf soil. I was given well-developed cucumber seedlings that grew on wet sawdust without any soil. In our greenhouse, the main “active ingredient” is well-rotted horse manure with rotted sawdust and small shavings. To it I add wood ash, loam and a mixture of peat and sand. Before sowing the seeds, I water the bed with a solution of raspberry potassium permanganate.

Watering and fertilizing. Cucumbers should not suffer from thirst. Their rather shallow root system requires regular watering. I only use warm water from a barrel.

In the greenhouse, under the cucumber vines, I always place several containers (at least 3 liters) with fermented manure. This old technique significantly enhances fruiting.

Occasionally I fertilize the cucumbers with ready-made garden mixtures. I consider the addition of well-decomposed (aged) horse manure with rotted sawdust to be an excellent top dressing.

Formation. The cucumber has a ribbed vine stem equipped with tendrils. The vine needs them in order to cling to support and stay on it. To prevent the lashes from lying on the ground, they need to be provided with support. Synthetic or plastic mesh, which is sold in many stores, is ideal for this. In the spring I attach the mesh to the top of the greenhouse. I secure the lower part with twigs, which I stick into the soil.

Formation is an important aspect of cucumber agricultural technology. In order not to keep in my mind (or on a piece of paper) complex schemes for the formation of a specific variety (or hybrid), I use a universal scheme. It is more suitable for short-fruited varieties.

The scheme is very simple: the main stem, which is tied with a rope or suspended over a net, grows to the maximum possible height. All side shoots are left with only three nodes. A neighbor gardener considers it necessary to leave only two nodes on the main stem.

I form vines of long-fruited parthenocarpic varieties a little differently. The logic is this: at the bottom (at a height of about 4 - 5 leaves) I completely remove all side shoots. Then (the next 4 leaves of the main stem) I leave shoots about 15 - 20 cm long. Even higher (every 4 leaves) I extend the side shoots by 10 - 15 cm. The maximum length of the uppermost side shoots is 50 cm. With this pattern, which is easy to remember and apply, the elongated greens will have excellent conditions for growth, and the plant itself will remain strong for a long time.

Cleanliness in the greenhouse. In the greenhouse, it is important to prevent mold and shoot rotting. All methods are good for this, including ventilation, trimming lower and damaged leaves, etc. I try to free the leaf blades, internodes and soil from fallen flowers as much as possible. Sometimes they have to be removed... with tweezers. This kind of cleaning has become a habit for me.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the stumps remaining from partially cut leaf petioles often rot. Therefore, I trim leaves, greens and mustaches “at the root”. It is imperative to remove dried or rotten lower leaves, which often fall to the ground.

In order to avoid condensation and sunburn of the leaves, I stretch a suspended ceiling made of thin, weightless lutrasil in the greenhouse. The non-woven material must be new. The fabric can be easily tied to the structure (at the corners) and pulled to the “dome” with twine.

Of course, any weeds must be removed. Anthills should not be allowed to appear in the greenhouse. Ants have no sense of proportion, so environmentally friendly measures to combat them are necessary.

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In the greenhouses of OJSC Agricultural Plant "Gorkovsky" cucumbers are grown in winter - spring and summer - autumn rotations. In winter - spring rotation in protected soil, the leading position is occupied by shade-tolerant bee-pollinated hybrids of the Relay variety type, such as F 1 Relay and F 1 Atlet. (Gavrish) The agricultural complex uses F 1 Gladiator as a pollinator hybrid. In summer-autumn rotation, parthenocarpic hybrids are grown such as: F 1 Effect, F 1 Courage

Pre-sowing preparation of seeds. To accelerate the growth of seedlings, soak the seeds in a solution of microelements for 12 hours:

for 1 liter of water, 100 mg of boric acid, copper sulfate, zinc sulfate and manganese sulfate, 20 mg of ammonium molybdate. After soaking, the seeds are dried to a free-flowing state.

TMTD - against a complex of diseases: seed treatment with 4 g/kg of seeds (10 ml of water/kg of seeds).

In winter - spring rotation, the optimal time for sowing cucumber is December 1 - 3. And for the summer - autumn turnover 12 - 14 June. Seedlings are grown in mineral wool cubes. The cubes are placed close to each other on sliding racks (which allows you to maintain a high percentage of the usable area of the seedling greenhouses, helps save energy, provides better heat and light conditions, and also improves working conditions) and covered with film.

After the emergence of seedlings, the covering film is removed and the seedlings are arranged manually at the beginning of the closure of the leaves. When a true leaf appears, the seedlings are turned so that the first true leaf of each plant is directed in one direction. This way the leaves shade each other less. The final plant density after placement is about 20 – 22 plants per m2). Before emergence, the air temperature is maintained at 25 - 26 o C, and the substrate temperature is 24 - 25 o C. After emergence, the covering film is removed and the air temperature is gradually reduced to 20 - 22 o C. This temperature is maintained until seedlings are planted at 20 – 21 o C – during the day (with additional illumination) and 17-18 o C at night (without additional illumination). The difference between day and night air temperatures ensures good development of the root system. The temperature of the substrate must correspond to the air temperature. Air humidity 80 - 85%, substrate humidity 75-80%. and turn on the illumination lamps. In low greenhouses, Reflax lamps are used - 400, and in new high greenhouses Reflax - 600. For the first 3 - 4 days, supplementary lighting is carried out around the clock. Then 10-12 days - 16 hours a day; the next 10-12 days - 14 hours each, and the last 4 - 5 days before planting the seedlings - 12 hours each. On the last day, the seedlings that are being planted are not illuminated. The size of nutrient cubes when growing seedlings is 10x10x4.5; the weight of one dry cube is about 12-15 and 50-55 g.

Mats should be stored in unheated, fire-safe rooms. To prevent drying out, the mats are covered with plastic wrap.

When growing cucumber in small-volume crop conditions, it is advisable to have sub-substrate heating. The temperature of the coolant in the sub-substrate heating system must be regulated automatically; its increase in the sub-substrate heating system above 24 o C leads to an increase in the temperature of the substrate and damage to plants by pythium and fusarium rots. Particular attention is also paid to watering; 2–3 days before planting, the mats are saturated with a nutrient solution with an EC of 2.5–3.0 mS/cm and a pH of 5.3. The optimal substrate temperature is not lower than 22 o C.

When growing seedlings on mineral wool, water once or twice a day with a nutrient solution consumption of 0.3 - 0.4 liters per plant.

Nutrition levels depending on the growth periods of cucumber plants when grown on mineral wool are given in Table 1.

Mineral nutrition levels of the F 1 Atlet hybrid when grown on mineral wool. Table 1

Growth period	Batteries	EU, mS/cm
Growth period
Growing seedlings
Drink swearing
Before fruiting begins
Fruiting period
End of fruiting

During a long period of cloudy weather, you need to water especially carefully, because... high root pressure with minimal transpiration can lead to stem cracking.

The day before planting, the seedlings are watered with a solution of fungicide against root rot. When selecting plants for planting, all sick and weakened ones are removed. The seedlings are collected in boxes and transported for planting.

Cucumber seedlings are planted at the end of December, 25–30 cm high, with five to six large leaves, and a well-developed root system. The main value is the early part of the harvest, arriving in spring and early summer. The planting density is 2.3 – 2.5 plants per m2.

Preparing the greenhouse for planting seedlings begins with its disinfection after the end of the previous crop. Rows of plants are placed along the ridge; with a span width of 6.4 m, 4 rows of plants are planted. After placing the mineral wool cube on the mat, it is necessary to carry out 2-3 waterings to improve its contact with the mat and stimulate the rooting of plants. For better surface contact, the cube is “pinned” to the mat with a bamboo stick. In the future, watering is carried out taking into account the arrival of solar radiation. After rooting (2-4 days after planting), the plants are tied with twine to horizontal trellises - wires stretched over rows of plants, with 2 trellises (50 cm from one another) placed above one row of cucumbers. The optimal height of the trellis is 2.2 m. First, the twine is tied to the wire with a double sliding knot, and then to the stem of the plants (for convenience, the twine is thrown onto the trellis in an empty greenhouse). As the plants grow, their stems are twisted around the stretched twine.

Yellowing lower leaves, deformed ovaries and shoots that bear fruit should be removed. It is recommended to remove the tendrils, since the infection remains inside the leaves twisted by them, which reduces the effectiveness of treating plants with pesticides.

From the leaf axils of the lower part of the plants (up to a height of 50 cm), it is necessary to blind the side shoots and flower buds. Above this zone of “blinding” of the leaf axils, pinch the next 6 - 7 shoots (up to a plant height of 1 m) into 1 leaf and 1 ovary. The side shoots in the middle and upper parts of the main stem (up to a height of 1.5-1.7 m) are pinched into 2 leaves and 2 ovaries, and the topmost ones (under the trellis) - into 3-4 leaves and 3-4 ovaries. Pinching of shoots should be carried out with minimal losses for the plant, i.e. remove only the tip of the shoot. Delay in pinching growth points, as well as removing shoots 20-30 cm long leads to a significant decrease in yield (by 2 - 3 kg/m2).

The first fruits on the main stem must be picked when their weight reaches 180 - 210 g, otherwise they will retard the growth of side shoots, especially in cloudy weather. After the top of the main stem has outgrown the trellis, it is smoothly bent to the wire (making two turns). It is very important to point the tops of all plants in the same direction. The top of the shoot is led to the next plant, then 1-2 leaves are lowered down and pinched.

On the main hybrid of a predominantly female type of flowering, a sufficient number of male flowers for full pollination is available only in the first stages of flowering. Further, the number of male flowers decreases sharply. Therefore, the agricultural complex grows the main bee-pollinated hybrid F 1 Athlete together with the pollinating hybrid F 1 Gladiator. It is very important that the fruits of the main hybrid and the pollinator hybrid are as similar as possible, so that there is no need for additional sorting. The number of hybrid pollinator plants is 10–15% of the total number of plants (1:4–5). Planting of hybrid pollinator plants begins at the end of February, when the main hybrid’s own male flowers are no longer sufficient to ensure normal pollination. However, in pollinators, the proportion of male flowers decreases with increasing branching order. Therefore, during the winter-spring rotation, seedlings of a pollinating hybrid are planted in 2-3 terms. In the second half of March, 3-5% of the hybrid pollinator plants are planted with the main hybrid, then the next planting is carried out in mid-May to ensure fruiting of the plants in June. You can plant hybrid pollinator plants in place of fallen plants.

A feature of bee-pollinated cucumbers compared to parthenocarpic cucumbers is that the growth of the ovary and the formation of the fruit are impossible without setting seeds after pollination. Cucumber pollen is coarse-grained, sticky, and cannot be carried by the wind. Pollination of cucumber flowers in greenhouses occurs with the participation of bees.

Maximum fruit set and good quality are obtained when flowers are pollinated in the morning. If a female flower is fertilized on the first day, the next day its petals turn pale and bees visit such a flower less often. Bees visit female cucumber flowers less often than male flowers, which are more attractive because they contain not only pollen, but also nectar.

In greenhouses in the morning, bees visit mainly male flowers. This is explained by the lack of beebread reserves in the families, which is why the bees experience protein starvation. One bee colony can provide effective pollination in a hangar greenhouse up to 1500 m2 in size. In block greenhouses there should be 8-10 bee families per 1 hectare. When growing a bee-pollinated cucumber crop, the exhibition of bee families from the winter hut to the greenhouse is carried out after gartering the plants, 4-5 days before the start of their flowering. The hives are installed in the southwestern corner of the greenhouse, with the entrance facing the crop being pollinated. Placing the bee colony at the end opposite to the entrance to the greenhouse is due to the fact that when installing hives at the doors, bees fly into the working and production premises and get lost. Bee colonies are placed on metal stands 35-40 cm high, leaving around a free space of 1 m for the bees to fly out. In cloudy weather, bees can be placed at any time of the day, and in sunny weather it is better in the evening. A day after the flight, a control inspection of the exposed bee colonies is carried out. If necessary, bee colonies are transplanted into clean hives and food supplies are replenished as necessary. A prerequisite for preparing bee colonies for pollination is the installation of individual drinking bowls with salted water on the day of the exhibition of bee families in greenhouses. Treatment with pesticides is recommended to be carried out at the most favorable time, if possible, with preparations that are harmless to bees and, preferably, in the afternoon, and at elevated temperatures - in the late afternoon, when bees no longer visit flowers.

The optimal temperature regime in the greenhouse is described in Table 2.

Air and soil temperature. Table 2.

Relative air humidity is maintained within 70-75% before fruiting and 75-80% during fruiting.

After the end of the first wave of fruiting on the main shoot and the transition of fruiting to the side shoots, the night temperature is reduced for two weeks to 16 - 17 o C, which entails the formation of female flowers, stimulates plant branching and accelerates the appearance of side shoots.

Fruiting of cucumber hybrids in winter-spring rotation begins from January 19-25. And in summer - autumn at the beginning of August. The first fruits appear on the main stem. The period from the beginning of flowering to the formation of the fruit, depending on the light and variety, is 12-20 days.

Harvesting of greens is carried out every other day. The fruits are harvested early in the morning, because Fruits collected during the day heat up and are stored worse. Harvesting is the most labor-intensive work. Harvesting trolleys and tractor lifts must be used. Standard fruits are collected in boxes and transported on carts from the rows through adrenal heating pipes.

Standard cucumber fruits are 18-22 cm. It is very important that the fruits of the main hybrid and the pollinator hybrid are as similar as possible so that there is no need for additional sorting. For winter-spring and extended rotation, cucumber hybrids are needed that are adapted both to short days (7-8 hours) and low light in the winter months, and to long days and high light in the spring and summer months. A very important property for these hybrids is also resistance to sudden transitions from low to high light and vice versa. Also resistant to low temperatures of day and night. The importance of this point increases with increasing energy prices for winter greenhouses.

Bee-pollinated cucumber hybrids can withstand a drop in night temperatures to 15-16 C without reducing yield, which makes it possible to reduce energy costs and expand the growing area in cultivation facilities.

Cucumber cultivation must be completed at the end of June, because Cucumber plants age quickly; The yield of the crop is significantly reduced and the number of non-standard products increases (more than 50%). With the appearance of cucumber on the market, the price of the fruit drops significantly (taking into account non-standard products, this price drop is noticeable). Due to the aging of the cucumber and the accumulation of diseases and pests, the number of chemical treatments has to be significantly increased. Also, further extension leads to difficulties in marketing products and loss of optimal timing for planting the next crop. The yield of cucumber in winter - spring crops (before July 1) is 31-33 kg/m2. .

In the summer-autumn rotation at JSC Agrokombinat "Gorkovsky", cucumbers are planted before July 8, at the age of 20-25 days. Each week of delay in planting seedlings means a yield loss of more than 1 kg/m2. The main problem when growing cucumbers in summer-autumn rotation is compliance with a set of phytosanitary measures. By the time of growing seedlings

For the second rotation, pathogens and pests remaining after the winter-spring rotation accumulate in greenhouses. F1 Courage is resistant to powdery mildew. Near greenhouses with a summer-autumn crop of cucumber there should not be greenhouses with an extended crop of cucumber as a source of infection for young plants.

In order to improve illumination and air exchange in the prism zone, it is recommended to blind the lateral shoots from the lower leaf axils of the main stem at a height of 90 cm. Form side shoots located above 90 cm into one leaf and one fruit, and on the main stem increase the number of fruits, leaving ovaries starting from a height of 40 cm above the soil surface.

The irrigation regime is of great importance. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out, because the root system weakens. As the weather worsens, watering reduces the temperature of the substrate at the beginning of cultivation to 22-24 o C, at the end of 19-20 o C. Relative humidity before fruiting is 70-75%, after fruiting 80%. They also fertilize with potassium fertilizers.

The autumn crop of cucumber is completed at the end of October and, depending on the variety and planting date, a yield of 10-12 kg/m2 is obtained.

Carbon dioxide feeding.

Obtaining a high overall and especially early yield is impossible without the use of carbon dioxide fertilizers, especially in the case of cultivation using low-volume hydroponics. In greenhouses, carbon dioxide is released by plants through respiration, contained in the atmosphere, or introduced into the greenhouse. The first two sources are not enough to ensure a high level of photosynthesis. In sunny weather, and in February - March with closed transoms, without additional supply of carbon dioxide, its content in the air decreases, which leads to a significant crop shortage.

The sources of carbon dioxide supplied to the greenhouse can be divided into biological and technical. The use of biological sources is associated with the activity of microorganisms that decompose fiber and produce carbon dioxide during their life processes. Biological sources of CO 2 in greenhouses are manure, straw, wood chips, sawdust, peat, etc. Such sources can be taken into account when growing cucumber crops on soil, but they should not be taken into account when growing cucumber in low-volume hydroponics. The main disadvantage of biological sources is the impossibility of regulating the feeding process and the short duration of the increase in CO 2 concentration in the greenhouse.

Among the technical sources of carbon dioxide, liquefied carbon dioxide is currently the most widely used; boiler room exhaust gases; gas generators of various types running on natural gas. A promising source of carbon dioxide is boiler house exhaust gases. The use of exhaust gases has several big advantages: fertilizing can be carried out with open transoms, i.e. throughout the entire season, the emission of CO 2 into the atmosphere is regulated, while natural gas is saved, and most importantly, the project quickly pays off. The exhaust gases from the boiler room are supplied to the greenhouse through a pipeline, using blower fans, and in the greenhouse - through polyethylene sleeves with a diameter of 5 cm with perforations of 4 holes for every 20 cm. The sleeves are placed under each row of plants. The pipeline must have drainage holes to drain condensate. Since the environment in which the pipeline is operated is quite aggressive, it is better to make it from polyethylene pipes rather than from metal pipes (metal is subject to rapid corrosion). Currently, with the refusal of many greenhouse complexes from large boiler houses and the installation of boiler houses on each block of greenhouses, this method has become more economical, because does not require the installation of an expensive main pipeline of larger diameter over long distances. This method also has disadvantages, one of them is the presence of CO and NO 2 impurities, which can pose a serious danger to both people working in the greenhouse and plants. In this case, it is necessary to have a CO/NO 2 analyzer to monitor the air in greenhouses. The second drawback: in the summer, when there is no need for heating, the boiler operates to supply CO 2. In addition, when switching from gas to fuel oil in a mine or emergency situation, due to the small amount of impurities hazardous to human health and harmful to plants, fertilizing with boiler room exhaust gases cannot be carried out.

The use of gas generators running on natural gas or propane is also quite widespread nowadays. Gas generators in the amount of 9-16 pcs. per 1 hectare, depending on their productivity, they are installed permanently above the trellis level. They are easy to operate, equipped with an automatic control device for burner operation and allow you to automate the process of CO 2 feeding. The main disadvantages are: the impossibility of using them with open ventilation transoms, when CO 2 with the air heated during burner operation escapes into the atmosphere; A significant increase in air temperature in the area where gas generators are located, which affects the uniformity of plant growth; possibility of formation of CO and NO 2 impurities.

CO 2 feeding begins at sunrise, simultaneously with the beginning of plant photosynthesis, and ends 2-3 hours before sunset. Seedlings are not fed with carbon dioxide. Most often this is due to the difficulty of supply and single-row distribution of CO 2 in the seedling compartment. The CO 2 concentration in the greenhouse is maintained at 700-800 ppm. In the summer months (May - June) it is desirable to maintain the CO 2 concentration at a higher level (up to 1000 ppm) due to higher illumination, but this is technically difficult to do with open transoms.

As you know, cucumber is a vegetable crop that grows and bears fruit well only in a place that is well lit and warmed up during the day. It is advisable that the area where cucumbers are planted be protected from the wind. This is a culture whose root system is extremely sensitive to adverse influences and factors. Today, cucumbers are successfully grown in open ground or indoors: panics, greenhouses, etc.

Soil is also of great importance for effectively growing cucumbers in the ground. You should not choose heavy, cold and waterlogged soil for planting seeds. They grow best in light, fertile soils. Reservoirs located close to the site have a very beneficial effect on growing cucumbers in the ground. Water makes the air moist, and the air temperature is more stable throughout the day.

Soil that is rich in humus, loamy, and does not require deep cultivation is the best place where you can grow a good crop of cucumbers. Drained peat bog, chernozem soil, cultivated non-acidic soils are best suited for growing cucumbers in the ground. It is necessary to take into account what grew on this piece of land last year. It is best to plant cucumbers after tomatoes, potatoes or cabbage. It is not recommended to plant after plants of the pumpkin family (actually, the pumpkin itself, squash, zucchini, watermelons and melons), because There is a high risk of crop loss from pests and diseases.

But if you use the right agricultural technology, it is possible to grow a cucumber on both heavy clay and light sandy soil. To do this, you need to add various loosening materials, such as manure, sawdust, rotted leaves or compost, to the clay soil in the fall. If you use peat bog for loosening, you must lime it before adding it to the soil. In order to finally prepare the soil for sowing cucumbers in the fall, autumn plowing is necessary. To improve plant nutrition in the spring and saturate the soil with carbon dioxide, it is recommended to annually apply fresh cow manure (5 kg/m2) to the site.

Seed preparation

Seeds that were collected 2-3 years ago are optimal for sowing, because... Plants grown from such seeds produce female flowers earlier, and therefore begin bearing fruit first. For good results, you can treat the seeds by soaking them in potassium permanganate (20 minutes in a 0.5% solution). It would not be superfluous to harden with a variable temperature of +20 during the day and -2 at night.

Dry seeds are used for sowing in the middle and northern zones. In these areas, early sowing is usually practiced because... The time for growth of this vegetable crop is limited due to weather conditions. And if you plant soaked or germinated seeds, then if there is frost, the seeds may freeze or rot.

In normal climates, seeds are sown sprouted or in moist soil. Deadline: end of April – beginning of May. You can sow seeds in several beds with an interval of 2 weeks, and then you will get a “conveyor” harvest.

Methods of sowing and watering

To grow cucumbers in the ground, various seed sowing technologies are used - trellis, free or in combination with creeper plants.

Two-line sowing. The scheme for such sowing is as follows: 90 x 50 x 50 cm.

Wide-row sowing. Row spacing should be 70 - 90 cm with 50 - 60 cm in rows.

When planting trellises, seeds are sown according to the scheme 80 - 90 + 50 + 50 x 20 - 25 cm, i.e. 2 ribbons of 50 cm each, plants in a row every 20-25 cm, the distance between the ribbons is 80-90 cm.

Tall crops such as corn and Brussels sprouts can usually be replaced.

After seed germination, you must:

— constant loosening of the soil, mulching with sawdust and straw can be used;

— regular watering and weed control;

— 2-3 times it is necessary to fertilize with fertilizers (80 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride per 10 m2 of sown area, or manure diluted 1:10).

It is not recommended to make sudden changes in soil and air humidity, because... This causes bitterness in cucumber fruits. To do this, the crop should be watered once every 3 days. The water requirement per 1 m2 is 2.5 liters. And before the cucumbers bloom, the soil should be dried out a little (this will encourage more female, “fruit-bearing” flowers to form). When flowering is almost over, continue watering as usual.

During the day, you can do so-called “moisturizing watering” - 0.5 liters per 1 m2, which increases the yield of cucumbers.

The first harvest of cucumbers (with proper watering and care) can be harvested 50 days after the seeds have sprouted. It is necessary to collect cucumbers daily, this will improve the yield. When collecting, you need to be careful not to damage or injure the vine of the plant, because they may dry out.

Growing cucumbers indoors

The most well-known method of growing cucumbers indoors is greenhouse cultivation.

Growing cucumbers indoors in a greenhouse is a fairly profitable and rational business, especially in winter. For a good harvest, it is necessary to equip the greenhouse with a heating system and lighting. The lighting should be bright; it is possible to use both incandescent lamps and other light sources.

The greenhouse can be made of glass, transparent plastic, or stretched film. For the heating system, a stove can be used, which is heated with both wood and coal, as well as gas heating.

In order not to delay seed germination and seedling development, it is necessary to plant seeds or seedlings in warm soil. To germinate seeds, it is necessary to warm up the greenhouse to 25 degrees, and after removing the film - 17 degrees.

Seedlings that have undergone hardening, are not elongated, that have 4-5 leaves, and are 25-30 days old are planted in a greenhouse. In a winter greenhouse, seedlings must be planted in the first half of February, and in spring greenhouses - in the first half of April.

The layout of the beds for planting cucumbers is 120 x 30 cm, it provides good heating and soil aeration. Before planting seedlings, the soil must be moistened. Plant the seedlings so that the edge of the pot protrudes slightly above the ground. The plants are immediately tied along a vertically stretched trellis, which must be tied to a wire. Trellis are made of twine in 2 m lengths, one end is attached to a wire, and the other is tied to the plant under the second or third leaf.

After the plant grows to 8-9 true leaves, the formation of a bush begins. New branches are completely plucked out at the beginning of their formation. In the next 4-5 nodes, the side shoots must be pinched into one cucumber and one leaf. Above the 5th node to the wire, shoots growing from the side should be pinched into 2-3 leaves and fruits.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse: glass greenhouse

Soaking the seeds

In the winter-spring crop rotation, from January to August inclusive, cucumbers are grown for greenhouses.

When planting seedlings in open ground, you need to make holes to a depth equal to the height of the pot, then remove the seedling, lower it into the hole and carefully cover it with soil, do not forget to water it with warm water. It is better to transplant in the evening, and not under the scorching sun. The seedlings may simply wither. If planting is carried out with seeds, then the sprouted ones are planted together with the dry ones. This is necessary so that if early seedlings die, later ones will replace them. Each seed is placed in grooves 1-1.5 cm deep every 5 - 10 cm (the distance between the grooves is 50 cm). The methods of growing cucumbers are the most accessible to every gardener.

Planting cucumber seeds for greenhouses

Regular consumption of cucumbers has a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system.

After this we can begin transplanting the seedlings. There should be a distance of about 20 cm between the bushes and about 70 cm between the rows - thanks to this, their root system will develop normally. It is advisable to ventilate the greenhouse every day by installing a thermometer inside - make sure that the temperature does not fall below +15 °C. It is important to properly feed seedlings in the winter.

. One bucket of the drug is enough for 20 m2. Work begins with preparing the land. To do this, mix “ingredients” such as peat, humus, sawdust and soil. Since the roots of cucumbers are quite weak at a young age, it is necessary to carefully prepare fertilizers, otherwise your garden will not give normal results.

Seeds are sown around March; for this, pots with fertile soil are prepared, each of which contains one seed. The diameter of the pot must be at least 8 cm. Germination of cucumber seeds best occurs at a temperature of 20 -25 degrees.

Severe temperature changes and drafts, which can cause various diseases and pests, should not be allowed.

Technology for growing cucumbers for greenhouses

May. Early ripening, bee-pollinated, bears fruit 46-50 days after germination. The plants are vigorous. The fruits have a cylindrical shape, length - 17-20 cm, weight - 180-200 g.

Water greenhouse cucumbers with water heated to 20-25°C from a hose with spray bottles before fruiting at intervals of 2-3 days, during fruiting - every day, spending 5-10 liters of water per m².

Before planting cucumbers for greenhouses, level the soil with a rake and moisten it well. Using a string and a marker, mark the planting sites for cucumbers for greenhouses. Plant bee-pollinated hybrids in two-row ribbons with a gap of 100 cm between ribbons, between rows in ribbons - 50 cm and between plants in a row (on average 3 plants per 1 m²) - 50-60 cm..

Seeds should be wrapped in cloth and placed in water at room temperature. The main thing is that the water only covers the seeds, since its excess impedes the flow of air. Soaking will speed up seed germination.

In terms of heat-loving behavior, the cucumber is superior to all its garden comrades, so it is grown at a temperature of at least 18 degrees (including seedlings). At lower temperatures, cucumber growth slows down. At temperatures below 10 degrees the plant dies.

Based on the composition of the vegetable, we can conclude that it is not only a source of vitamins and minerals, but also has medicinal properties. Cucumber has a choleretic, diuretic and laxative effect. It is used in cosmetology as an anti-aging and anti-acne agent.

The first time the work is carried out as soon as three leaves appear on the plant. The second time fertilizer is applied when the plant begins to bloom. To do this, you can use chicken manure or mullein - organic fertilizers take root better and are not dangerous for future fruits. Make sure that the leaves of the plant do not fade - if you notice this, immediately water the bushes.

For 1 square meter you will need to add 20 g of ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride, ammonium sulfate and superphosphates.

The technology of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse includes several stages - planting, care, and harvesting.

Feed the fruits in the cucumber greenhouse at the beginning of setting. On soils filled with organic matter, apply only mineral fertilizers, as with winter-spring crops.

Crystal. Early ripening, bee-pollinated, long-climbing, fruits form after 48-50 days after germination. Zelentsy have an oval-cylindrical shape, length - 18-25 cm, weight - 180-260 g.

Pre-sowing hardening. It consists in keeping the fabric with seeds for up to 48 hours in the refrigerator, where the temperature is from 0 to -2 ° C. After this, the seeds are immediately sown. The fabric should be damp and the seeds should not sprouted. Hardening will increase cold resistance.

Productive hybrids that are resistant to disease are used. The following bee-pollinated hybrids are distinguished:

With regular consumption of cucumber, you can achieve a positive effect on the cardiovascular system and the thyroid gland, since the vegetable contains potassium and iodine. Cucumber juice has a positive effect on the nervous system due to the content of B vitamins. Fiber prevents the deposition of toxins, cleanses the intestines and kidneys, removes cholesterol, and also helps neutralize toxic substances. It is not recommended to consume cucumbers for people with kidney failure, gastritis, or enteritis.

Aphids (Whitefly) can settle on your seedlings, sucking the sap from the leaves. The problem is also that

Also an important point in the normal development of seedlings is maintaining the required level of humidity. So, if the humidity is reduced to 10%, cucumbers will not grow; the most optimal level is considered to be 90% humidity, but there is no need to allow severe waterlogging, which can lead to a lack of air, since this can cause the roots of the crop to die. To achieve normal conditions, you need to water not only the soil, but also the greenhouse itself from the inside.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse: film greenhouse

After the seedlings have grown, they are transferred to pots of larger diameter (about 12 cm). Cucumbers are very sensitive to drafts, so they should be protected from temperature changes in early spring; for this purpose, protective compartments are often created. After the cucumbers begin active growth, they must be watered abundantly, avoiding excessive waterlogging of the soil. It wouldn’t hurt to fertilize the cucumbers with a special fertilizer.

On low-fertility soils with low humus content, in addition to mineral fertilizers, you also need to apply organic fertilizers (dilute manure in water in a ratio of 1:5, chicken manure in a ratio of 1:10). Root feedings, which alternate with non-root ones, are effective.

If the greenhouse soil is infertile, add 2-3 buckets of manure and mineral fertilizers for digging in the spring. Per 1 m²: urea 20-30 g, superphosphate 60-80 g, potassium salt 30 g and magnesium sulfate 20 g.
To increase air humidity, you need to water plants, paths, walls and heating devices. This technique is best performed in sunny weather with the windows closed.
Parthenocarpic long-fruited hybrids should be planted in a row, with V-shaped propagation of vines, at a distance of 150 cm between rows, 50 cm between plants (on average 1.4 pcs. per 1 m²).

Technology for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Zarya. Early ripening, long-climbing, medium-branching. Zelentsy are cylindrical in shape, with tubercles. Their length is 16-20 cm, weight - 150-170 g.

After 6-7 leaves have appeared on the shoot, the stem of the plant must be pinched. It is especially important during active growth that the soil does not dry out. Even short-term drought of the soil during flowering and fruit formation leads to the fact that the fruits will subsequently be bitter. Some vegetable growers mulch the soil to prevent moisture from evaporating and weeds from growing. You can use grass, sawdust, and straw as mulch. They are laid out on treated soil. At the same time, watering can be done less frequently.

Cucumber varieties can be divided into three types. Greenhouse cucumbers have long, smooth fruits up to 30 cm long. Garden cucumbers for open ground have a size of 10 to 15 cm. Gherkins do not exceed 10 cm in size. In addition to this classification, it can be noted that cucumbers with white thin spines are used for salads, and with black ones - for pickling.

the appearance of aphids can lead, if you do not fight them, to a fungus, due to which the plant will soon dry out

In order for cucumbers in a greenhouse to quickly grow and produce fruit, you must follow several important rules. We will also tell you about the best varieties that are most suitable for planting in a greenhouse, including in the winter season. Don’t forget to prepare the seeds themselves: they need to be disinfected with copper sulfate or boric acid.

The main shoot is tied to a support; in the lower part, at a height of about half a meter, it is necessary to pinch the side shoots. In greenhouse conditions, cucumbers grow very quickly, therefore, already in May you can get the first harvest and collect the fruits until October. It is better to cut cucumbers with pruning shears so as not to damage the stems.

To grow cucumber for greenhouses, seedlings aged 25-30 days are planted in a heated film greenhouse in the 1st-2nd decade of April, and in an unheated one - in the 2nd decade of May.

Since the described hybrids are cross-pollinated, their flowers need to be pollinated, otherwise the unfertilized ovaries will not form fruits, will turn yellow and fall off. In a small greenhouse they pollinate by hand (bees are used in industrial vegetable growing). To do this, the male flower is picked, its petals are removed, and it is placed in the female flower so that the pollen falls on the stigma of the female flower. Pollinated female flowers are marked by tearing off 1 petal. Cucumber seedlings are watered before planting. When planting cucumbers for greenhouses, well-developed plants are chosen. Plant them vertically in pre-made holes, deepening the pots to 3/4 of the height. If the seedlings of cucumbers for greenhouses are overgrown, they are planted obliquely and the lower part of the stem is sprinkled with soil. The seedlings are watered and later tied with twine to a wire trellis. Stretch such a trellis with a diameter of 2-3 mm across the ridge of the greenhouse along the rows of seedlings at a height of 2 m from the soil. First, tie the twine for trellis culture to the wire, and then to the stem of the plant with a loose ring-shaped loop. Moreover, you should not pull the twine too tightly, since when the trellis wire oscillates, there is a possibility of damaging the root system or tearing the plant out of the ground. The tops of the plants are regularly, once a week, wrapped around twine.

Sow the seeds in plastic pots filled with nutrient soil (1-2 pieces each) and keep them at a temperature of 22-28°C until germination.

Surprise 6 6. It is mid-season, long-climbing, medium-leaved. Zelentsy has a cylindrical shape, length - 14-18 cm, weight - 100-200 g, surface lumpy.

Growing plants are evenly distributed over the soil surface. On average, after 30-40 days from sowing, the cucumber begins to bloom. The temperature must be maintained. You can plant sunflowers in diameter to prevent cold winds from blowing. The timing of fruit appearance depends on timely pollination. The first flowers usually fall off because bees are not attracted to them, but at the time of mass flowering this problem disappears. When the first cucumbers appear, the soil needs more frequent watering. In dry weather every day up to 6 liters per 1 sq. m. On cloudy days, watering is not carried out.

After selecting the desired variety of cucumbers, you can begin preparing the seeds. Before planting, it is recommended to warm the seeds and germinate them. If the seeds are heated, it means that they are disinfected and the incidence of plant diseases in the future is sharply reduced. It is better to warm up two months before planting. They are hung in a gauze bag near a heat source (stove, radiator, fireplace) at a temperature of 25 -30 degrees. Immediately before sowing, 24 hours before, the seeds in the same bag are placed in water at room temperature so that they germinate. After this you can start planting.

Secrets of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

. The first step in the fight is to destroy the weeds inside the greenhouse. Also, do not forget about harmful insects.

Important nuances:

The first thing to start with is germinating the seeds. So, if your summer cottage has an ordinary film greenhouse, you can grow seedlings in the winter on the windowsill - you need to plant them before mid-April, and already in May you can plant the seedlings in the ground. If there is a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate on the site, the seeds can be immediately planted in the ground. In this case, planting takes place around mid-April. Naturally, it is necessary to prepare the greenhouse.

If there is intensive growth of cucumbers for greenhouses, the fruits are harvested 3 times a week with an interval of 1-2 days, preventing overgrowth. The average yield in heated greenhouses per 1 m² is 12-14 kg, in unheated ones - 8-10 kg.

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Technology for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Great attention is paid to diet. Feed the plants with mineral fertilizers at intervals of 7-10 days: before fruiting in small doses, after fruiting in large doses. In a bucket of water (10 l), dissolve urea 10-15 g, superphosphate 20-30 g, potassium sulfate or chloride 15-20 g. Plants per 2-4 m² are fed with this amount. Root feeding is done in sunny weather.

Plants of bee-pollinated hybrids are formed like this.

To grow seedlings, you can use peat tablets and coconut substrate.

Manul. Mid-season, mid-climbing. Zelentsy have a cylindrical shape, a slightly elongated base, length - 15-22 cm, weight - 155-220 g, surface lumpy.

If the soil has been sufficiently fertilized in the fall, the plant does not need feeding and the seedlings will take root normally. In any case, leaves that have turned pale for no reason need to be fed. To do this, you can use any nitrogenous fertilizer (urea, potassium nitrate). The solution (10 g of substance per 10 liters of water) is sprayed onto the leaves in the evening, when there is no strong sun, and the cucumbers are collected in the morning. It is necessary to harvest in a timely manner, as this stimulates the growth of younger cucumbers.

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Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse - preparing and planting seedlings

Preparing for landing: basic rules

Seeds should be planted in soil, which will be similar in composition to that where the mature seedlings will be planted.

To do this, we cover the doors and windows with gauze, and also make “tasty” traps: we take a piece of plywood, paint it yellow or any other bright color, and grease the surface with honey: an insect that lands on the surface will stick to it.

Heating: positive temperature in a greenhouse for cucumbers is one of the most important conditions for normal growth. If you are going to plant them in winter, be sure to install a heating system. And the seeds must first be planted in a jar at home, and only then, when the seedlings have gained strength, can you transplant them into the greenhouse;

Planting cucumbers in the ground When it gets cold, cover the plants with film both at night and during the day. On hot summer days, open greenhouses and shelters completely or ventilate them.After a week after planting the cucumbers in the greenhouse, tie them with twine to a wire trellis. The twine is tied to the stem below, under the 2-3rd leaf. As it grows, wrap the main stem around twine every 6-8 days. Form the plants into 1 stem after tying them to the trellis. In cloudy weather, fertilizing with macro- and microfertilizers is used. In 1 bucket of water (10 l) dissolve urea and potassium sulfate 5 g each, superphosphate 10 g, copper sulfate 0.5 g and sulfates of manganese, iron, magnesium, boric acid 1 g each. Superphosphate dissolves poorly, so the day before use an extract is prepared from it. The required amount of superphosphate is poured with hot water, mixed, infused, the settled solution is drained and added to the rest of the fertilizers. Boric acid is also dissolved in hot water in advance. Foliar fertilizing should be applied 1-2 times a month, the leaves should be sprayed with a hand sprayer and 0.5 liters of solution should be consumed per 1 m².At the beginning of growth in the axils of the first 3-4 leaves, remove the stepsons and female flowers so that the plants can strengthen and develop well. Then the side shoots that form in the axils of the main stem are pinched over the second leaf, and closer to the trellis - over the third. The main stem is pinched and 3-4 leaves are left above the trellis. Bring the tops of the whip to the trellis wire and tie it to it. Of the shoots that appear in the axils of the upper leaves, leave 2-3, which are lowered down from the wire and pinched at a height of 1 m from the soil. During the growing season, remove lateral fruit-bearing shoots, old and diseased leaves.

If the seedlings are stretched out, it means the plants do not have enough light. To avoid this, you need to add additional light to the seedlings, and when seedlings appear, reduce the temperature to 18-20°C.

Grenade. Mid-season, long-climbing. Zelentsy have a cylindrical shape, a smooth, elongated base, length - 16-20 cm, weight - 200-250 g, there are small tubercles.

Cultivation technology and varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse

The method of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse is not much different from growing them in open ground, but there are some subtleties.

The soil for growing seedlings is prepared mainly from peat (70%) and sawdust. 20 g (a tablespoon) of ammonium nitrate is added to a bucket of sawdust and mixed well, then allowed to stand for 3 days and mixed with peat, moistened and kept for 2 days. This is done so that the soil is saturated with fertilizer, and the plant subsequently gradually sucks out the substances necessary for growth.

As you can see, growing cucumbers in a greenhouse begins with seedlings and ends with the fight against the “infection.” But in the end you will get a rich harvest of sweet and tasty cucumbers.
Fertilizers should be applied at least a week before planting, covering the soil with added humus with ordinary plastic film;
We recommend that you readIn greenhouses, greenhouse cucumbers are often affected by powdery mildew and spider mites. We need to destroy them in time. Remove overripe and diseased fruits. Pinch out the lower side shoots and flowers in the axils on the stem up to 50 cm. Pinch out the stepsons above the second leaf to the middle of the height of the main stem, and above the third one. The top of the lash is brought out onto a trellis wire, tied to it and pinched. Leave 2-3 shoots from the shoots formed in the axils of the upper leaves, lower them down from the wire, forming them into 2-3 lashes, which are pinched 1 m from the greenhouse soil. Side shoots with 1-3 ovaries are pinched, but 1-2 leaves are left behind the last ovary.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse in winter

After 35-50 days from planting cucumbers for greenhouses, the plants form consumer-ripe greens. The harvest is harvested 1-2 times a week, then up to 3 times. The fruits are cut with a knife or carefully picked by hand, without pulling the lash. Remove all diseased fruits. The yield is 18-22 kg per 1 m².

It must be taken into account that the seedling period from sowing to planting is 3-4 weeks.

Fighting aphids - the main enemy of cucumbers

In order to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse early, you can build a steam bed and maintain the temperature in it. Having dug the bed to 40-50 cm, put manure inside and fertile soil on top. Then they cover it with a film so that the earth is warmed up by solar energy, which will allow cucumbers to be planted a month earlier than usual. Next, the prepared soil is poured into pots, lightly watered with a solution (10 liters of water, 0.08 g of copper, zinc, manganese salts and 0.02 g of boric acid). Then make a hole 1-1.5 cm deep in the pot and place a dry or sprouted seed and lightly cover it with soil. It is recommended to cover the pots with plastic wrap to prevent moisture from evaporating, and remove it after germination. A week before planting in the ground, the seedlings are taken out to the garden bed for hardening. The day before planting, it is watered twice.

The cucumber belongs to the pumpkin family. One of the vegetables whose fruit is eaten unripe. In addition to the fact that cucumber has excellent taste, it has dietary and medicinal properties. The word “cucumber” itself comes from the Greek “aoros”, which means “unripe”, as it is used in its green form, unripe.

An important point is the choice of variety

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How to grow cucumbers in open ground

In early spring or late autumn, we disinfect the room using the drug

During the growing season, water the soil, humidify the air, feed the plants with fertilizers, weed, loosen the rows, and fight pests.

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