Soil pests and control. Soil pests in pots. Soil pests
Insect pests of plants - a real scourge of the garden. What measures do not take experienced plant growers to protect their planting! Unfortunately, most of the ways to fight are useless, and all because each pest needs its own “approach” - it is enough to collect some of them with your hands, and to destroy others you cannot do without toxic chemicals.
Growing and other weed control programs that were used after the population of the livestock has established itself will cause the devious worms to feed on seedlings. Manufacturers should allow at least two weeks between weed control and planting to reduce the number of worm worms before germination.
The usual use of soil insecticide for corn grown on previously unoccupied land, in most cases is not justified. Insecticide treatment is recommended to protect corn and soybeans from the attack of seed larvae. The use of some products may not be legal in your state or country. Consult your local county agent or authorized representative before using any pesticides mentioned in this publication.
Just like people, plants can get sick. In addition, there are also numerous insect pests of plants - lovers to eat leaves, roots, buds and flowers. And the gardener becomes very sad and sick when his pets suffer from diseases and pests. How to protect the garden? The main thing is the right care, and a healthy plant can stand up for itself. It is not difficult to cope with many pests of cultivated plants, if measures are taken in time, but if, through ignorance or negligence, this is not done, then it will be much more difficult to defeat this scourge.
The variation in the number of catches of crane flies was largely determined by the type of crop. Contribution to a special issue on ecology and the fight against wireworms. Damage from insect pests living in the soil, for example, and usually develops in the first three to four weeks after transplantation. Scout plants for at least a month after transplantation.
What part of a plant for insect pest intelligence
Soil pests damage the roots and stems, so damage is not visible on the surface.
How to investigate insect pests
Plants that seem stressful or stunted can be dug up and found to damage chewing and bore or the presence of insects. Keep in mind that other problems can lead to plant growth retardation, including damage to herbicides or transport, some insecticides, salt damage from granular fertilizers, and weather. Eliminate these potential causes of injury before digging a large number of plants.To successfully combat the pests of plants "enemies" need to know the "face". It is equally important to have an idea about the nature of the damage that a particular pest inflicts, because the thrips cannot be seen without a magnifying glass, the slug hides for a day in secluded places, and many, fed up to dump, fly away.
With a photo and the names of plant pests, as well as their description and the most effective ways to combat, you can find on this page.
Wireworms tunnel through the stem of a small tobacco plant. Post-injury rescue or treatment methods are not effective for soil insects in tobacco. However, since the harm from insect soil is relatively rare in tobacco, prophylactic use of pre-transplant insecticides is also not recommended unless the field has a history of damage to the soil insect. Harvest rotation is another insect control tool.
If more than 10% of the plants die due to the feeding of insects found in the soil, a transplant is recommended. If less than 10% of the plants die due to insect feeding, transplantation is not required. A healthy, well-groomed lawn is a wonderful thing, but, like any planting, it can have many problems. Chewing insects, such as grasshoppers, can attack grass blades, and ginger critters, such as gophers, can sneak down along the lower reaches and cause the green peaks to die. It is not easy to notice the stains from the lawn.
Pests of garden plant roots
The click beetle damages many flower plants, including tulips, poppies, gladioli. This is a small pest with a length of 1.5-2.5 cm, black, there are striped individuals. It is widespread, but most abundant and harmful on moist soils.
As can be seen in the photo, the larvae of plant pests, known as “wireworms”, are narrow, long, consisting of segments, with a very dense shell of yellow or brown color:
However, one often encounters the problem of identifying what causes the problem and how to treat it. Learn about common lawn pests and the symptoms they cause, as well as some tips to fix the problem. When moles work, you will see volcanic mounds of soil and raised ridges passing through peat. Soil embankments are spots where moles push all the soil to the surface, which they dig out from deeper tunnels that you cannot see. Moles tunnel through lawns, feasting on insects, worms and larvae.
They live in the ground and damage the bulbs or roots of plants, eating holes and passages in them. Fungi and bacteria settle in the lesions, and the plant eventually dies. In the winter, insects and larvae hide deep in the soil, and in spring, with the heating of the soil, they rise to the top.
Diseases caused by bacteria
They are more often found in over-wetted lawns, because wet soil is easier to dig. Castor oil effectively stimulates the growth of moles. Use liquid or granular preparations. As the spring of snow melts, this type of damage to the lawn is often found. This is not the equivalent of crop circle lawn; they are paths created by voles, which are small rodents. These creatures made their way through the grass, and then literally beat on these areas. Hidden under the snow, voles move freely through lawns in open areas.
Hoverflyor large daffodil fly. Its larvae cause great damage to the bulbs of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and can also damage the corms of gladioli, rhizomes of irises. The larvae about 1 cm long hibernate in the bulbs. These pests of the roots of plants eat away the bottom, and the bulb becomes soft. In the spring of the affected bulbs form weak plants with ugly, quickly yellowing leaves, flowering usually does not occur. With a strong defeat, the entire inner part of the bulb turns into a black rotting mass.
After the snow melts, they retreat to comb and poison the long grass that hides them from predators such as hawks and cats. Fill field trails with good quality soil or compost. Before snow falls, treat areas exposed to vole with castor oil to help repel these decoys.
When it comes to determining what is bothering your lawn, most of the time you have to rely on clues. For example, with Japanese beetles, you can see beetles physically on the lawn. Most likely, they lay their eggs in the soil and do not feast on peat.
Root Onion Mitedamages bulbous plants - daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and also damages the corms of gladioli and dahlia tubers. The tick is dangerous both during the growing season and during the storage of planting material. These insect pests of cultivated plants are stored in the soil on plant debris and quickly penetrate the bulbs planted into the soil through the plummer or mechanical damage, but healthy planting material may also be affected. Pests settle between scales and feed on sap, drain the bottom, which becomes loose and easily exfoliates. In this case, the plants develop poorly, turn yellow, wither, and with a strong population of the bulbs with mites, they do not germinate at all. An adult tick has a convex oval body of up to I mm in size, light yellow in color, with four pairs of legs. Larvae are smaller. Females lay in bulbs up to 800 eggs. After a week, the larvae appear, which develop and feed within the bulbs within a month. Adult ticks and their larvae make numerous moves, as a result of which the source bulb can turn into dust. The pest loves heat and moisture. When the humidity is below 60%, the development of ticks is stopped, they lose mobility and go into a stage of rest. In such a state can persist for a long time. Destroying a pest is very difficult.
Which beetle your lawn is likely to be infected depends on where you live. Pears are a big problem in the northeast, in the Midwest and in the southwest, where irrigated turf is an oasis in the desert. Sometimes you also notice the places where the lawn was buried when hungry skunks or armadillos dig their larvae.
Treats for larvae include dairy spores, granulated pest control products and nematodes. Signs of digging or adult beetles provide easily identifiable clues that attack the lawn. But when an insect hides in the grass of the crown or works underground, it is difficult to detect the villains. Pouring soapy water on a piece of lawn provides an easy way to wash pests to the surface. Dissolve two tablespoons of dishwashing detergent in two gallons of water. Pour the solution onto a square lawn area.
Cormorant and winter shovels - dangerous pests of bearded and, especially, Siberian irises. At the beginning of the growing season, the scoop caterpillars eat out the bases of peduncles, and they turn yellow and dry. These pests of garden plants cannot “cut off” the powerful flower stalks of tall bearded irises, but the damage they cause is sufficient for the flower stalks to be felled by the wind. In addition, the caterpillars can damage the rhizomes, which are then easily affected by bacterial rot. In the dry summer planting irises are affected shovels to a greater extent. Caterpillars scoop harm and bulbous plants, gnawing holes in bulbs and eating roots. Plants often die at the same time.
You may find cricket rabbits, tendon beetles, a scoop, or worms climbing out of the soil and grass to avoid choking soap. Another test that you can use to flush damaging lawn creatures is a flotation test. Start by removing the top and bottom of the jar, such as paint or a large meal. Find the area where the lawn problem is bordered by a healthy lawn, and push the jar into the soil from 2 to 3 inches deep. Fill the jar with water and observe the insects floating on the surface.
Cockchafer or cockchafer. This big red-brown beetle in May-June eats holes of irregular outlines on the leaves. The name of this pest of plants received for the fact that the years of beetles begins in May. For plants, the bug is not so much dangerous as its thick, curved larvae, more than 2.5 cm long. For several years, the larvae develop in the soil, nibbling and damaging the roots or bulbs. As a result, the plant weakens and may die. In large numbers, the larvae are found in organic debris, manure.
What to do if pests appear in the garden
For both of these tests, count the number of insects that you observe. Check with your local garden center or extension office for threshold figures. Chinch bugs, as a rule, attack the lawn in sunny areas, suck the juices from the individual grass plants and inject toxins that weaken the grass from the soil. Chinch bugs usually live in the thatch or in the crowns of individual grass plants. You can see them with the naked eye on the lawn, if you get to the level of grass, but it is better to use the test for humidity or flotation.
What are the main pests of cultivated onion plants?
What other insect pests of cultivated plants cause great damage to garden plantings?
Gallic nematode - One of the main pests of plants, including viola, narcissus. This is a microscopic worm, invisible to the naked eye. Adult males up to 1.5 mm long, the shape of their body filamentary. The females of these pests of garden plants have a pear-shaped body up to 1.3 mm long. The female lays up to 400 eggs. The larvae develop in galls - bloated on the roots of plants. Roots damaged by the gall nematode are unable to provide the plant with adequate nutrition and water. Plants are stunted and do not bloom. Often, the roots rot because of disease-borne organisms in the galls. From the gall pests pass into the soil and penetrate into the small roots of other plants, which also stop growing, turn yellow and often die. The gall nematode spreads better on light soils. Pests bring great losses and bulbous plants. The larvae feed on the sap of the leaves and stems, and then pass into the bulb. It softens; brown rings, the so-called “ring rot”, are visible on the cross-section. The affected plants become smaller, the leaves turn yellow and there are visible swellings. The development of plants is delayed, they bloom poorly, and with a strong defeat they die. These pests of bulbous plants invade healthy planting material when transplanting to contaminated soil and also during storage. If the damage reaches the bottom and spreads to the rest of the scales, the bulb dies.
Can garden bugs be dangerous to humans?
If necessary, clean the lawn to reduce the cover of these insects. Treatment options usually focus on the use of insecticides, although insecticide soap also works well. Rabbit cricket is one of the most destructive lawn pests in the entire southeast. These insects tunnel through the soil, and various species affect different parts of the country. As they break through the soil, cricket rabbits feast on insects and decompose plant matter, as well as grasses and shoots.
Thrips clouds hover over the favorite "food" - gladioli and irises, leaving silvery spots on the flowers and leaves. The buds bloom poorly, and with strong damage, the inflorescence does not form at all. Hot and dry summer is favorable for the reproduction of the pest. During the season, up to 9 generations of thrips develop in the southern regions. The pest can damage the planting material stored in the repository. Especially thrips are active at temperatures above 10 ° C. A sign of damage caused by thrips is shiny bristles on corms, bulbs or tubers. Trips, when there are many of them, can bring great harm and even destroy planting stock during storage. Trips damages irises, gladioli, clematis, roses, less often dahlias and other cultures. Small insects, about 1.5 mm long, barely visible to the naked eye, cause significant damage to garden plants. Thrips settle in the axils of the leaves. The upper surface of the leaves, damaged by many injections, acquires a silvery shine. With a large accumulation of pests, the leaves are covered with small black specks of insect excrement. As a result of severe damage, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off, which has a detrimental effect on the development of the whole plant, laying the peduncles and flowers.
A lawn infested with rabbits has irregular brown spots and feels spongy when you walk along it. Finger-width tunnels and dying grass lacking roots are key clues that work on krill. Treatment options usually focus on the use of insecticides. Krishta moles prefer moist soil for digging. Make sure you do not overfill your lawn.
European crane-fly is primarily a pest in the northwestern part of the country. Adult insects resemble a large mosquito and often perch on lawns or flat walls of a house. The larvae, called leather vests, hatch in autumn and feed on grass against the background of a mild winter in the region. The damage they have appears in the spring. When lawns need to grow green and grow quickly, they seem to have stalled and become weaker. The best places to check are grass in poor condition, yellowing or even absence.
Medvedka (top, cabbage dog, earthen cancer). The pest is a serious threat to tulips and gladioli, not averse to nibble onions and other flowers. Dangerous for irises, especially in the southern regions. It can completely destroy the freshly planted letnika seedlings.
Shady and wet areas are another place to check. Count how many larvae you find. Compare this number with treatment recommendations created by turf and entomology experts at the University of Oregon and the University of Washington. When choosing a treatment for lawn pests, there is a temptation to look for a silver bullet pesticide to solve this problem. Remember that the best protection against any pest is maintaining a healthy lawn. Aerate, plant, fertilize, mow and water according to a schedule that promotes healthy turf growth.
Pay attention to the photo - this insect pest of plants in length reaches from 3.5 to 5 cm:
It has wings, strong mobile horn jaws, strong front claws, equipped with a serrated tooth, to make it easier to dig in the ground moves. When moving in one direction, the file-zubchatka folds and forms the sharpest spear, and in the other direction it opens at a certain angle like a saw blade and cuts the ground, and with it roots, tubers, and bulbs. The pest easily travels underground, quickly swims in water and flies through the air. Crawling to the surface of the soil, moves pretty quickly. The "uniform" of the insect is durable, waterproof. Smelling pest endowed with very thin. Medvedka inflicts the greatest damage on loose fertilized soils and in warm areas, where it can multiply in large quantities.
When it is time to treat pests, consider options outside of insecticides, such as nematodes or spore lactic bacteria. Some pests react to the drying of a saturated lawn. Others die when you apply fertilizer properly to stimulate the growth of healthy grass. When applying any chemical, follow the instructions on the label. Many insecticides need to be watered after being applied to move the chemical to the soil where the pests live.
Insects such as aphids, Japanese beetles, cabbage worms, tomato hornworm, beetles, asparagus beetles and many others. Gastropods, such as snails and slugs, sneak up on you at night and can make lace of your plants for the night. Sometimes there are soil pests, such as nematodes, which can cause great damage.
How do the massive pests of garden plants
Cabbage scoop is many-sided. Caterpillars harm different crops. Of the flowers most often damage daffodils, tulips, gladioli, dahlias. It is a dark-brown butterfly with a wingspan of up to 5 cm. Pupae overwinter in the soil. According to the description of this insect pest like a mole. Years of butterflies begins in May-June and lasts a long time. During the season, one female lays up to 1500 eggs on the lower surface of the leaves. After 2-3 weeks of them go caterpillars. During their development, they cause significant damage to flower plants, gnawing through holes in the leaves and buds.
Insect pests of cultivated plants and vectors of diseases
Most strategies used in combating natural pests take little time. In the end, they work much better than pesticides. The best protection against pests is to completely avoid attack. How you physically set up your garden, it has a huge impact on how well it works.
Someone who lives in the soil
Some factors make your garden a suitable place for unwanted visitors. Conditions such as overpopulation, planting the same plants always in the same place, so that pest populations can grow in these areas or choose varieties that are prone to attack by pests or place your plants in the path of pests, all this causes problems.
Khrushchi. Bronzovka golden and garden hopper - small beetles that eat the stamens, pistils and petals of flowers, penetrate into the buds. Because of this, the flowers become ugly, often in the form of one half.
Scoop leaf gnawing - a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 3.5-4.5 cm. The front wings are yellow-brown with spots of a reniform, wedge-shaped and round shape, the rear wings are white. The caterpillars of this massive plant pest are up to 5 cm long, light green or brown-brown, with even rows of white with black rim spots throughout the body, with a bright yellow side strip and three pale narrow backs. The caterpillars feed at night, devouring the petals, and during the day they hide in the depths of the flower, so they are difficult to see.
Cabbage moth - small butterfly. Her years begins in the second half of May. Butterflies lay 2-4 eggs on the lower side of the leaves. One female can lay up to 150 eggs and more. Cabbage mole gives up to 4 generations. Very mobile, light green, caterpillar with sparse hairs hatch from eggs. They eat the upper epidermis and the flesh of the leaves, leaving the lower epidermis untouched, which dries out and breaks. They also eat buds and flowers.
Aphid - the most common pests of cultivated plants in the garden. Great harm is done to ornamental shrubs (Kalina, Chubushnik, Euonymus). Small insects ranging in size from 1 to 2.5 mm have a different color: light and dark green, black, orange, reddish. Insects and their larvae settle on different parts of plants: young shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. Sucking cell sap, they retard the growth of plants, cause deformation of the leaves, peduncles, the buds do not open. Leaves are covered with sticky honeydew. Sooty mushrooms can settle on the sweet secretions of aphids. Plants lose their decorativeness. For a season, aphids can produce up to 17 generations, the pest reproduces particularly well in warm weather. When storing tulip and gladiolus bulbs, green aphid colonies may appear under the outer scales. Damaged bulbs later give weakened shoots.
Insect pests of cultivated plants and vectors of diseases
Meadow bug. A rather large sucking insect of length L mm causes harm mainly to young shoots, leaves and buds. The body of the bug is light or dark green, covered with black dots, the stripes on the sides and the tip of the abdomen are also black. Adult insects winged, wingless larvae, very similar to aphids. Larvae can jump and easily avoid danger when spraying the buds. The female lays eggs in the apical buds of plants. Hatching larvae pierce the tender skin of young leaves and buds and suck juice from them. Damaged cultures grow ugly, with deformed inflorescences. This insect pest of plants is a carrier of diseases, including viral ones.
Bare slugs. The pest is multifaceted, damages a wide variety of flower plants, attacks vegetable crops. Bare slugs belong to gastropods; they have a gray, brown or light yellow elongated, spindly, body covered with mucus. In wet years, slugs multiply strongly and cause significant damage to plants. They eat oblong holes in the leaves, can eat flowers and young shoots, damage bulbs. Slugs are nocturnal, daytime hiding under the lumps of earth, large leaves, in other secluded places. The presence of a pest is indicated by the appearance of silvery mucus on the leaves. Sheet-eating caterpillars do not leave such marks. In thickened plantings, favorable conditions are created for the reproduction of the pest. Like onion bugs, these insect pests of cultivated plants are carriers of diseases, in particular, bacteriosis.
Mammalian animals such as moles, mice, rats, and hares can also be dangerous for an ornamental garden.
Look at the photo, what plant pests look like - now you can find out "enemies in the face":
How to protect plants from pests: ways to fight
Sometimes plants suffer from pests and diseases less than from the ignorance and laziness of gardeners themselves. A careless gardener can ruin his planting at a speed that even the locust would envy.
How to protect plants from pests and prevent hordes of insects from spreading around the site? In order for cultures to develop well and bloom, it is necessary to choose the right place for planting, prepare the soil well, acquire healthy planting material and, finally, strictly follow the rules of care.
But insect pests, too, want to live and eat deliciously, so they rush into the gardens in slender and not very slender rows. Each region has its own specifics depending on climatic and weather conditions. In some areas there is no life from the piracy medvedka, someone has all "devoured" the trip, somewhere the number one enemy is bacteriosis.
Experienced florist, taking measures to combat plant pests, begins his day in the garden with an inspection of crops. If during the next "contemplation" he notices twisted and holed leaves, twisted shoots, disfigured buds and flowers, he will immediately realize that pests attacked the garden. If there are not many of them, you can simply take them away with your hands or wash them off with a stream of water. But if you miss this moment, several pests will turn into hundreds and thousands, and nothing will remain of your flowers.
Remember the following rules for how to deal with pests in the area:
1. The problem is easier to prevent than to eliminate.
2. If the "invasion" began, do not delay the fight for an hour.
3. The devil is not so bad as he is painted. In a single garden, one is unlikely to encounter more than three to five varieties of uninvited "guests."
To calm this gang of "robbers", do not immediately grasp the pesticides. There is no need to panic, having found harmful insects on the plants in a small amount, you can take the slugs with your hands, wash the aphids with a stream of water. Whether pests will turn into a natural disaster, which can be dealt with only with the help of "chemistry", largely depends on the state of the plants and weather conditions. For example, plants weakened by a lack of light become easy prey for sucking insects. Thrips multiply excessively in dry and hot weather. The gardener's task is to do everything so that the plants are strong and healthy, because such plants are too tough for pests.
In addition, the uninvited guests of the garden have natural enemies. There is a balance in nature: each pest has at least one adversary. Ladybugs, golden-eyed, predatory flies and silver flies are the enemies of aphids. They do not refuse from leaf-eating caterpillars. Ladybirds and their larvae can kill up to 150 aphids per day. Other beneficial insects, the horsemen, lay their eggs in live caterpillars, and their larvae eat the caterpillars alive from the inside. And, of course, birds constantly absorb harmful beetles and caterpillars. Hedgehogs perfectly destroy the larvae of Khrushchev
How to deal with pests: plant protection methods
In order not to disturb the natural balance, try to give preference to such means of controlling pests of plants that would not harm the beneficial insects and birds. The main thing in plant protection from pests is a system of preventive measures: it is easier to prevent a disease than to treat it. The main role is given to activities for the care of plants, ranging from the purchase of planting material to wintering or bookmarking in storage.
Crop turns prevent the accumulation of pathogens and pests in the soil and create conditions for normal growth and development of plants. It is known that nasturtium, mustard, calendula, emit phytoncidal substances, help clean the soil from infection. Therefore, the bulbous plantings are recommended to alternate with these pilots. The plants are returned to the former site in 5-6 years.
How else to deal with plant pests in the garden? An important point is the preparation of the soil. On poorly drained soil, poor in humus, the plants often get sick, grow weakened and are attacked by pests. Before laying the flower bed, the area needs to be cleared of debris: branches, stones, chips, etc. A deep digging of the soil in a flower garden in the autumn will help get rid of the larvae and eggs of harmful insects hibernating in it (shovel, wireworms, earwigs). When using composts or manure, you need to be careful not to bring in the flower garden of the May Khrushchev, which often settles in the compost heaps. Larvae must be carefully selected and destroyed, you can feed the chickens. The boxes for seedlings must be disinfected annually (with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water), and the land should be changed in them (it is better to use ready-made mixtures for seedlings).
For most ornamental plants, areas with light, loose soils are more suitable. Heavy acidic soils that contribute to the spread of fungal infections, lime. To this end, they make fluff lime at the rate of 100-200 g per 1 m2 in the fall.
If you have acquired a healthy planting material, then the problems will be much less. Therefore, shopping is better to do in specialized stores. Try to avoid thickening of the plantings, in such conditions the plants do not have enough nutrition and there is excessive moisture, which also leads to the reproduction of pests and pathogens. Weeds need to be systematically removed, as they are a reservoir for many diseases and pests. In addition, they thicken planting and compete with cultivated plants for nutrients.
Plant residues (foliage, stems, fallen flowers) often become the home of pests. Do not leave trash near the plants. Carefully rake it and destroy it.
What to do if pests appear in the garden
What to do if the pests still settled in your garden? Many insects can be destroyed mechanically. Zhukov (bronzkovka, may Khrushchev) is collected and destroyed, and the affected buds are cut off. Aphids are washed off with a stream of water. Caterpillars scoop, click beetles and their larvae are chosen when digging the soil. Excellent ways to deal with plant pests such as click beetles and their larvae (wireworms) are laying baits (potato tubers). Pests drill holes in tubers and stay in them for a while. The bait is collected and destroyed.
Baits are also used to protect plants from insect pests such as slugs. Around the plants in between the rows lay out bunches of dill, burdock leaves, boards, pieces of slate, wet rags, under which pests accumulate during the day. Then the pests are collected and destroyed.
From slugs helps dusting the soil around the plants with superphosphate, a mixture of ash and quicklime, and dust from the shag. This should be done in the evening or early in the morning when the slugs are on the surface of the soil. But still the most effective means of dealing with slugs is metaldehyde. Granules are scattered in places where slugs accumulate under plants (4 g per 1 m2).
There are many methods of protecting plants from pests-bear:
1. To collect during the winter more eggshells, pound into powder. In the spring, when plants are planted, moisten the powder for smell with vegetable oil and put into the wells 1 tsp. Medvedka, having tasted the bait, dies.
2. Earth motions of the pest fill with soapy water (4 tbsp. Of laundry detergent per bucket of water). Medvedka either dies underground, or crawls to the surface, where it is easy to assemble and destroy.
3. Another effective method for dealing with pests is to plant marigolds along the borders of the site. This will close the insect access to your garden from the neighboring territory.
4. You can get rid of the bear by using the infusion of chicken droppings, watering them the ground in dry weather.
5. In the autumn, in the places where the cave dwelled, they dig traps of pits 0.5 m deep and fill them with fresh manure. The pits are located at a distance of 5 m from each other. Above the trap holes poured a hill of land and mark with a peg. When the cold comes and the snow falls, they find places of traps' holes on pegs and throw manure from them onto the surface. Bears, hidden in the manure for the winter, die in the cold.
The selection of photos "Pest Control" will help you choose the most affordable way to protect plants on your site:
Plants that protect against pests in the garden
If you want to enjoy the scent of flowers in the garden, rather than toxic chemicals, then it is better to use insecticidal plants for pest control. Infusions and decoctions of these plants that protect against pests, practically do not pose a danger to humans, as well as to birds, hedgehogs, etc. They relatively quickly lose their toxic properties and do not accumulate in the soil and plants.
Gather wild and cultivated insecticidal plants in dry clear weather, dried in the shade. Subsequently stored in a dark, well-ventilated area. You can cook broths and infusions, and immediately after collecting plants.
After infusion or boiling, the liquid is filtered through a double layer of gauze or burlap. If the concentrated broth is drained hot and tightly closed, it can be stored in a cool room for up to 2 months. Before use, the broth is diluted to the required concentration.
When processing infusions and decoctions of plants from pests in the garden, insects die within 3 days. After 4-6 days, the treatment must be repeated to fix the result.
Many preventive growers planted insecticidal plants (calendula, garlic, onion) in areas with separate groups.
When planting it is necessary to observe the optimal distance between plants. Quenched landings are more often affected by viral and fungal diseases, and pests multiply there. Matters and depth of landing. Small bulbs are unacceptable, as this leads to their overheating. In the spring when mass shoots appear, all diseased and non-germinating specimens are removed. During the growing season, plants afflicted with a nematode, viral diseases, are culled and destroyed. If necessary, the soil is treated with insecticides.
On the ground in my flowerpots (not all plants) there live white small and about 1-2 mm long insects that jump when I loosen the ground. A transplant in the new ground did not help, the pests reappeared after a few weeks. Watered aktellikom once, did not help. What to do? Where do they come from? And above the pots, black and dark gray insects fly like black flies. How are they called and how to get rid of?
In the summer, the land in flowerpots dries quickly and in order to water plants less often, many pour more water. It is not right.
First, the water displaces the air from the soil and the roots suffocate.
Secondly, the wet soil deteriorates quickly - it becomes sour or alkalized and a whitish or rusty deposit appears on the surface.
And thirdly, wet ground (wet, not wet) habitat of moisture-loving soil creatures. These are various flower flies: schiarids (or they are called tomato, fruit go mushroom mosquito), cucumber mosquito and fruit flies (acetic or fruit fly). And springtails (or podury), woodlice, enkhitrei and others.
All flies love a wet substrate and the presence of undecomposed plant residues in the soil. They only lay eggs in wet soil. Small larvae eat plant residues in the soil, turning them into a sticky and viscous mass. From what the earth is compacted and reduced access of air to the roots. The roots and stem rot, leaves grow dull, lose elasticity. When the larvae become many, they feed on the roots of the flower.
Flying adult sciaride is harmless. And adult individuals of cucumber mosquito and Drosophila damage the growth point and succulent plant tissues in the absence of rotting fruits and vegetables in the house.
Flower flies can not live in dry and slightly moist soil. When the top layer of the soil in the pot dries, watering the eggs and the larvae die. Therefore, the main way to deal with them - correct watering plants. The flower is watered after the top layer of the earth dries out a little. And in the presence of flying flies, water more rarely when the top 2 cm layer of soil dries out.
If flying schiarid flies a lot, apply insecticides (Agravertin, Atakar, Actellic, Intavir, Kinmiks, Fitoverm). Water the soil with a solution of an insecticide prepared as for spraying, 80-100 ml per 0.7 liter pot, 2 times in 7 days. Or scatter the soil insecticides in granules (thunder-2, basudin) in a thin layer on a slightly damp ground, mix it with the upper layer of soil and then water it thoroughly. After treating the soil with preparations, it is not allowed to water the plants for 3-5 days in order not to weaken the effect of the insecticide by decreasing its concentration or washing it out of the soil coma. 
Jumping white and small insects this springtails. The main fight against them is not to overwet the soil. When many pests remove the top layer of soil by 2-3 cm, pour over the insecticide solution and pour dry, washed sand. Any insecticide and soil preparations are suitable.
Pesticides can not be used from springtails. Helps watering infusions of insecticidal plants: yarrow, hot pepper, tobacco dust. A good effect can be achieved if several times shed the soil in pots with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate or a soap solution (20-40 g of soap chips are dissolved in 1 liter of water).
If the springtails dwell in the house not only in a flower pot, then it is necessary to get rid of them with the help alkaline drugs (soda, washing powder and others), which are added to the water for washing windows and floors. It is also necessary to eliminate the sources of distribution of unwanted moisture - current pipes, faulty taps.
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