Pruning of young trees in the fall. Pruning seedlings after planting

To   tree developed normally and bear fruit, it needs correct and timely pruning at a young age . Crop young wood need to to form the structure and shape of the crown of the tree . If timely and properly produce crown formation   at a young age then later when the trees when you reach maturity, you can only get along with a small trimming trim. From right   depends on their durability and yield.

Crown formation   achieve a strong skeleton wood,   strong trunk (trunk) and well developed, properly spaced around the trunk and tightly connected with the trunk of the main branches. Formation of young trees in the garden it is necessary to continue according to the type begun in the nursery. Reforming trees can not be, because of this they get sick and greatly retarded in development.

The main stages of the formation of the crown of the fruit tree by pruning

1. Pruning seedlings after planting.

2. Pruning a young fruiting tree at the age of5-7 years old.

3. Pruning of an adult fruit-bearing tree at the age of 7-9 years.

4. Pruning an aging tree over 10 years old

In nurseries, the following crown formation systems : whorlie-tiered being the main form for most breeds, varieties and areas; sparse and longline  andbush.
  With the first two systems of forming, fruit trees on high-growth rootstocks have a stem 50–70 centimeters high (the distance from the root collar to the first skeletal female), and on dwarf rootstocks (apple and pear) –– 30-40 centimeters. This height of the trunk facilitates care and accelerates the entry of trees into fruiting. Shrub formation of fruit trees it has become widespread in the more severe climatically northeastern regions (in the Urals, in Siberia).

1. Vysokoshtambovoe tree, height shtamba 160-180 cm

2. Half-trunk tree, shtamba height 120-140cm.

3. Nizkoshtambovoe tree, shtamba height 80-100 cm.

4. Bonsai, shtamba height less than 80 cm

Crown fruit trees ,  formed   by whorled-tier system , consists of one or two tiers. The first tier is laid on annual saplings of contiguous buds, and it consists of four, and most of all, five lateral skeletal branches and a central shoot, called a continuation shoot, or conductor. Sometimes the second tier of the crown is laid, in most of the three adjacent branches, in the second or third year after planting. It is located at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from the first tier.

Cloudy-tiered forming young trees

Mutovo-tiered formation of the garden

Mast-tier formation of trees is the most common for most breeds (does not apply only in the north-eastern regions, the northern regions of the European part of Russia).

Technology whorl-tiered tree formation

In the year of planting (during the autumn planting - in early spring, before the buds swell, and in the spring - now after planting), the side branches of the planted two-year-olds are cut to about half or one third of their length. Lower, as well as less developed branches are pruned weaker, and the upper and more powerful - stronger. The escape continuation is also shortened, but so that it is 15-20 centimeters higher than the ends of the side branches. In addition, it is not cut right above the kidney, but with leaving a small spike   in 4-6 centimeters.   Shipik   serves for the subsequent garter to it of a grassy shoot. Summer spike cut out.

In the first year after planting, the tree usually gives a relatively weak growth, and, therefore, it is impossible to lay the second tier of the crown on it. Bookmark the second tier is held one year after landing. The second tier of the crown is usually laid from three adjacent buds.

More often, the second tier is not displayed, but three or four skeletal branches, more or less evenly spaced in space (directed in different directions), are left on the conductor. Shoots between skeletal branches are systematically shortened by summer nipping or trimming, turning them into shorter shoots for fruiting.

In order to   young tree formations spend a light shortening of the branches. Shortening regulate the development of individual branches and their subordination to the conductor. The escape continuation (conductor) must be taller and stronger than the lateral branches and have a vertical direction. If he deviates strongly to the side, then he is straightened, tied to a pole. Intermediate branches between the main skeletal branches, so that they do not compete with them, are suppressed by strong pruning. In case of excessive thickening of the crown, they are completely removed. The main branches grown on skeletal boughs, must be at a sufficient distance from the trunk and sent to the side, and not inside the crown. The branches between the main branches are not cut, but shortened.

1. Turbid formation of branches on the trunk, the branches are located with a minimum run-up, grow from almost one point, which complicates the formation of the skeleton of the crown.
2. The branches are located on the shtamba at regular intervals, which makes it possible for each of them to develop equally, to become covered with overgrowing branches and to create a solid skeleton of the crown.

It should be borne in mind that pruning, especially strong, weakens the trees. Therefore, without the need to shorten the branches should not be. Inexperienced gardeners are advised to limit pruning of young trees with light, slight thinning of diseased and weak branches, as well as branches growing inside the crown.

The shortening of intermediate branches can be replaced with a summer pinch (pinching). Pinching is done with the fingers when the shoots reach a length of 15-20 centimeters, usually above the fourth or fifth leaf. The disadvantage of the long-tier formation of trees is the crowded arrangement of skeletal branches, leading to crown thickening.

Sparse-tier system formations

young trees

Sparsely-crooked crown:
on the left - a tree at the end of the formation,
on the right - placement of main branches possible options

young trees   reintroduced and characterized by sparse placement in the crown of skeletal branches. Two-year-olds formed according to this system, when planted in a garden, should have three strong lateral branches (most often grown from adjacent buds), another one or two sparsely or adjacently located main skeletal branches, a sprout of continuation and several shortened non-skeletal branches. After planting, all branches of the crown are shortened, as in the longline formation, and the non-skeletal branches are shortened more than the skeletal ones.

In subsequent years, the number of main branches in the crown is increased to six to eight. Have them sparsely or in tiers of two branches or separate branches at a distance of approximately 15 to 35 centimeters from each other, evenly spaced in space. After laying of all the main skeletal branches of the crown, the central conductor is suppressed by strong pruning, and the non-skeletal side branches are transformed into fruitful by annual shortening.

Bush formation

young trees

Trees formed by the bush They do not have a trunk or a trunk in them (improved bush) is very low: 20-30 centimeters for apple trees (in the Urals and in Siberia) and 30-40 centimeters for cherries and plums (in central and Volga regions) Dwarf fruit trees (apples and pears) in the bush form for the central and southern regions deserve special attention.

Dwarf apple trees in bush form

With   forming fruit trees   pruning branches should be carried out only if necessary, allowing the plant to grow normally, in a natural form. This should especially be taken into account by those gardeners who have not yet mastered the technique of shaping and cutting.

Video lecture for gardeners

"How to prune fruit trees and shrubs"
reads Svetlana Dmitrievna Aitzhanova,
doctor of agricultural sciences
professor, Honored Worker of Higher School of the Russian Federation.
Published: 6 Feb. 2015

. Lecture. Part 1.

  Pruning and formation of fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 1.

  Pruning and shaping fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 2.

Pruning and formation of fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 2.

Pruning and shaping fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 3

Pruning and formation of fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 3

  Pruning and shaping fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 4

Pruning and formation of fruit trees and shrubs. Lecture. Part 4

When caring for a young garden, it is necessary to ensure the survival of all planted fruit trees, create conditions for good growth of seedlings and build the correct tree crown, as well as ensure early entry of the trees into fruiting time.

Pruning of young trees is aimed at the formation of the crown, and spend it after planting seedlings. Many gardeners are confident that such work should be done the next year after planting. However, errors at this stage can lead to an underdeveloped root system and the death of the plant.

• Young trees need formative pruning, which consists in removing the skeleton (skeleton) of the crown and saturating it with additional shoots. This type of pruning is designed to stimulate growth and development for fruiting.
• Fruiting plants continue to form the crown, for which conduct regulatory pruning to accelerate the timing of yield. During this period, the gardener should take care of the normal access of the sun to the entire tree.
• During the fruiting period, pruning is usually used, the purpose of which is to prevent weakening. At the same time, the old branches are removed to enhance growth processes.

2 Pruning of young trees in spring and autumn

And fruit trees in the fall is an important stage that should not be overlooked. And all this is due to the fact that these works have a significant impact on the entry of trees into the fruiting era, on the increase in yield and on its regularity, on the quality and quantity of fruits, and on the durability of the plants themselves.

Warning: without removing the branches and forming the crown, it is impossible to grow a healthy tree and get a rich harvest.

After you plant a tree and until it enters the fruiting stage, the main task will be the formation of strong branches, the laying of new shoots that will yield. To do this, you need to stimulate the growth of lateral branches, for which you need to shorten annual shoots, and at the same time remove the branches, which thicken the crown. These works are necessary, since the young trees give a powerful increase, while the branches appear on the tops of the shoots, and the lower part remains "bare."

As a result, they will be weak and thin, breaking under the weight of the crop. Strong developing shoots are shortened by 30-35%, weak - 25%. This will allow to regulate their growth, to make the crown beautiful and powerful. After work, shoots from stone varieties should have a length of 55 cm, in seed seeds - about 45 cm. All branches located on the main conductor should be pinch at a time when their length will be about 20 cm. Due to this, in a few years or even next year they will become fruit, that is, the crop will grow on them. When they grow up a little, pinch again.

The work is slightly different when young fruit trees are pruned, because at this time the plants' skeletal branches weaken considerably, and along with this the formation of lateral branches intensifies, the crown also thickens, and the fruit shoots noticeably lose their power, the flower buds become smaller, and the harvest itself it turns out scarce and poor quality. In this case, your main task during this period is to prevent strong growth of the crown, most appropriately placing fruit shoots. This can be achieved by thinning the crown. All work is carried out sharply sharpened shears.

For this "on the ring" (at the base) you need to cut the following branches:

• Sick and withered;
• Branches rubbing against each other and intertwining;
• Branches forming a fork, splitting under the weight of the crop;
• Shoots that thicken the crown of the tree.

Very often it will be enough just to shorten the shoot, rather than cutting the branches completely, leaving them about 20 cm. However, this is done as a last resort - for young trees, it is better to nip. If the trees that have begun to bear fruit, give a powerful increase in skeletal branches, they are also shortened, after which the length of the shoots should be about 45 cm.

3 We care for young trees and get a gorgeous harvest

  - one stage of tree care. The health of your garden also depends on the development of the root system, feeding and getting rid of pests. If the problem is in the roots and lack of nutrients, we need to “feed” the plants. To do this, we dig a trench near the tree, after which we need to carefully lift the root ball with shovels (it is desirable that two people do this work), pour soil into the trench filled with fertilizers, carefully lower the tree back. Take care that the roots are not exposed too much, as this may harm them.

For the normal development of the garden you need to take care of the pristvolnom circle of each tree. In the second year after planting, we increase them to two meters. In September, we dig up the soil, you can apply mulch from peat, but you should not use nitrogen fertilizers, because the tree will grow, and its young shoots simply will not stand frost. The work is carried out with garden forks, since they reduce the risk of injury to the root system. We water young saplings abundantly, especially at the beginning of summer - a period of active growth. Depending on the structure of the soil and the amount of precipitation, watering is carried out about five times in the first half of summer. In arid areas - no more than eight.

In addition to quantity, the quality of irrigation is also important, because it is necessary to wet the ground to a depth of at least 50 cm, and therefore we will need at least 20 liters of water per square meter of the tree trunk. As the tree grows, its quantity increases. However, in the northern and central regions, characterized by abundant precipitation in July-August, plant growth begins to slow down, the bark freezes and dies in winter. To protect your garden from such a misfortune, be sure to stop the usual watering at the end of summer, moving to a new mode: one bucket of water per square meter. This will allow the tree to get the amount of moisture it needs, without over-saturating its root system.

Do not cut seedlings when planting

About the uselessness of pruning trees and shrubs when planting

In the process of development of the fruit tree and berry bush, a certain equilibrium is formed, the relationship between the aboveground and root system. The manifestation of this relationship is diverse. In particular, studies have shown the same pattern of dying off and the resumption of parts of the root system and the aerial parts. It was revealed that the state of the leaf apparatus and the activity of vegetative growth have a great influence on the growth of the suction roots, and the overall development of the root system depends on the accumulation of nutrients by the aerial part. On the other hand, the budding of fruit buds is directly dependent on the growth rate of the suction roots. The great importance for the growth of a tree or a bush and their fruiting intensity of the activity of active roots in the previous autumn period was noted.

This interrelation of the roots and the aerial part makes it necessary, when developing technological methods, to study in detail the reaction of not only the above-ground but also the root system. It is especially important to take this into account when developing issues of pruning fruit trees and berry bushes, since pruning has the greatest influence on the condition of their above-ground parts. However, until recently, when considering the issues of pruning garden plants, even in serious literature, not enough attention was paid to the reaction of the root system. This is absolutely absent in the popular gardening literature, which often leads to wrong conclusions and recommendations.

This situation, in particular, has developed on the question of the need and degree of post-plant pruning of newly planted seedlings or transplanted adult trees and berry bushes. The main argument of this necessity was the relative increase in the force of vegetative growth after pruning. The issue of root system regeneration, depending on the strength of pruning, was not considered, although a quick and complete restoration of root activity is of paramount importance for engraftment of a seedling or an adult tree and shrub, their further growth and fruiting. When transplanting from the nursery to the garden, the fruit tree or berry bush loses the bulk of the fibrous roots. Therefore, most experts formed the opinion that it is necessary to trim the aerial part in the first year after planting in order to restore imbalance between parts of the plant, reduce leaf surface and leaf transpiration of water, and, consequently, the danger of the tree or bush dying from draining.

Indeed, those specialists who were limited to research only on the above-ground part found that vegetative growth was somewhat intensified in the cut-off newly planted or transplanted garden plants. However, it has long been noted by all that pruning trees and shrubs in the year of their planting worsens root regeneration. It has been suggested that a more developed aboveground part activates root growth. The latter was confirmed by special experiments. As it turned out, the presence of a large number of buds on the tree and bush, especially the terminal ones, strongly stimulates the formation of roots. It was found that the cells of the meristematic (growth) tissue found in the kidneys attract nutrients from the storage tissues of the aerial part and involve them in the process of formation of new roots. In addition, blooming buds produce growth stimulants (auxins), accelerating the restoration of the root system. Many prominent scientists and specialists, in particular B.N. Anzin, Z.A. Metlitsky and a number of others, spoke on the point of view of the inexpediency of post-plant trimming.

At the beginning of the 60s of the last century, at the Rossoshansk experimental gardening station in the Voronezh region, scientists and specialists led by Ph.D. first two years of growing in the garden. The experiments were carried out on a large scale on ten varieties of apple trees according to the following options: leaving the trees in the first year after planting without pruning and severely shortening the branches by 1 / 2-2 / 3 of their length in the second year (first option); with a moderate shortening of the branches in the year of planting (by 1 / 3-1 / 4 of their length) and forming pruning in the second year - thinning and moderate shortening of the shoots of the continuation of the skeletal branches to equalize the strength of their development (second option); with a strong shortening of the branches (by 1 / 2-2 / 3 of their length) in the first year of growth and formative pruning in the second year (the third option).

The research results turned out to be so interesting and contradictory to the existing current guidelines for pruning, that amateur gardeners definitely need to familiarize themselves with them. Planting of seedlings was carried out in the spring. The emergence of new roots in them began on the 10-20th day after planting. Higher soil moisture and temperature contributed to earlier root recovery. Already from the first days, a direct relationship between the number and state of growth points in the crown and the degree of root regeneration can be traced. Trees whose buds began to grow, had new roots on the 20th day after planting 2.5 times more than trees with dormant buds. Post-plant pruning, especially strong, delayed the start of bud break for 5-7 days and significantly (1.5-2.5 times) reduced the number of growth points. Therefore, the formation of new roots during the first month after planting took place more intensively in the trees without pruning in the first year. Thus, the trees of the Antonovka ordinary variety without pruning on the 20th day after planting new roots were 3.2 times more than in the trees with strong pruning. A similar pattern was observed in trees of other varieties.

The fuller and faster regeneration of the root system in trees without post-plant pruning in the first year, during the period of planting the seedlings, was a factor that ensures the rapid restoration of the vital functions of the tree, i.e. supply it with water and nutrients. This contributed to a good survival rate of seedlings - in this experience, it was almost 100%. The same results were shown by the production inspection carried out in many fruit-nursery state farms in the Voronezh Region. The effect of buds on the growth of the root system was limited to small periods - 10-14 days. In the future, the development of the root and aboveground parts of the tree was mainly influenced by the leaf surface. The size of the leaf surface of a tree in the first two years of growth in a garden is determined, first of all, by the number of growth points and to a lesser extent depends on its strength. This phenomenon is associated with a weak growth of shoots in the first year after planting and the development of leaf buds from awakened buds.

Noting the great importance of the leaves, Professor P. G. Shitt wrote that the state of the leaf apparatus of newly planted trees is one of the most important indicators of the survival of seedlings. Stronger growth of the root system and vegetative growth are conditioned by a more developed leaf surface. Therefore, it is important that in the first year of growth in the garden trees have a well-developed leaf apparatus. Post-plant pruning causes the formation of one, maximum two growth shoots at the top of a branch, the remaining growth points, like in trees without pruning, produce shortened shoots or rosettes of leaves. Therefore, the total amount of vegetative shoots on a tree, while increasing compared to trees without pruning, still remains insignificant. The number of growth points is reduced, which is especially pronounced on trees with strong pruning. In this regard, the leaf area on the rosettes is reduced, and this is not compensated by the best development of the leaves on the growth of the shoots. As a result, post-plant pruning leads to a reduction of the leaf apparatus on the tree. Thus, in the experience of trees of the Suvorovets variety without pruning, the leaf area on trees per year was 2.2 times larger than with strong pruning.

The negative impact of pruning in the year of planting was reflected in the second year of growth in the garden - the leaf surface of the trees trimmed for the first time in the second year was 1.3–1.9 times greater than that of the trees with post-plant pruning. Due to the good development of leaf rosettes on trees without post-plant pruning, the leaf area per unit length of one-year increments increased dramatically (in some varieties 10 or more times). This attitude improved the carbohydrate reserves of the tree, increased their inflow to the root system, increased its regeneration and overall development.

Observations on the formation of active roots showed that in trees without post-plant pruning, the growth of suction roots was more intense during the entire growing season. The increase in the number of active roots in such trees occurred over a longer period, and at the time of maximum growth, which occurred in July, their length was more than 40% of the total length of the roots. For pruned trees in the year of planting, the intensive growth of suction roots was shorter, and during the period of maximum growth their length was only 20-30%. The results of excavation of the entire root system in the first and second year after planting also showed that the good development of the leaf apparatus in trees without post-plant pruning greatly enhances the overall development of their root system - the root length of such trees was 1.5–2 times, and some varieties and 3 times more than when pruning in the year of planting. The negative effect of post-plant pruning is more pronounced in varieties with more intensive vegetative growth.

In the second year of growth in the garden, the length of the roots increased, depending on the variety, by 1.2-3.5 times. But the negative effect of post-plant pruning continued to have an effect: trees trimmed for the first time in the second year have a more powerful root system. These results confirm the point of view that in newly planted trees and shrubs an indicator of the power of the root system is not the strength of vegetative growth, but the development of the leaf apparatus. A good root development in the first two years provides further and intensive vegetative growth necessary for the rapid formation of the crown. From the first year after planting a certain weight ratio is established between the aboveground part and the root system - the root system is 1/4 of the mass of the whole tree. External conditions change this ratio a little. Pruning the aerial part also does not change it - by the end of the growing season it is restored. This once again underlines the great interrelationship of the roots and the crown and the need to take this into account when developing and implementing technological methods for the care of trees and shrubs.

As already noted, trees and shrubs, pruned in the year of planting, have fewer leaves per unit length of roots and one-year growth of shoots. This leads to the fact that the sheet apparatus has to work with a large load and put fewer nutrients into storage tissues. The conditions for preparing plants for overwintering deteriorate sharply, their winter hardiness decreases. As a result, under adverse autumn-winter weather conditions (even not very frosty winters), such plants are damaged in varying degrees by frost. Trees and shrubs without post-plant pruning at the same time winter much better.

The weak development of the root system of seedlings determines a great dependence on the level of water supply in the first period of their growth in the garden. The larger leaf apparatus of uncircumcised seedlings in the year of planting causes their greater aquatic transpiration and the need for more frequent and intensive watering, especially in the first period of summer - until the end of July.

Thus, the research of scientists from the Rossoshansk Experimental Station of Horticulture has established a close relationship between the above-ground and root systems of garden plants, which is evident from the moment the plant is planted in the garden. The condition of the aerial part has a great influence on the development of the root system. The main factors affecting the intensity of regeneration, the growth of suction roots during the growing season and the power of the root system are the active points of growth and the leaf apparatus.

Vegetative growth can not always serve as an indicator of the degree of development of the root system. In turn, the power of the root system and the leaf apparatus determines the winter hardiness of the plant and the strength of its development in subsequent years.

Post-plant pruning reduces the number of growth points and the leaf area on the plant, significantly weakens the root system and impairs the plant's winter hardiness. The negative effect of post-plant pruning, especially strong, is also manifested in the following years of its growth in the garden.

Based on research data for spring planting, it may be recommended to abandon pruning in the year of planting, transferring it to the second year: cut plants with good awakening of the kidneys moderately (up to 1/3 of the branch length), and worse from bad plants (up to 1/2 branch lengths).

You can recommend to refuse in the same way from pruning and during the autumn planting of plants, ensuring their protection from winter drying due to insufficient water supply in autumn due to poor development of the root system and possible freezing. To this end, seedlings of fruit and berry plants should be bent to the ground and completely covered with snow, and in the absence of snow protective material. When planting and transplanting tall, large-sized seedlings and adult fruit plants, it is necessary to envelop their trunk, bases of skeletal branches and these branches themselves with moss or other material that does not transmit heat and moisture badly, with a systematic moistening of the enveloping material in the case of a dry autumn. But the guarantee of the complete preservation of plants after wintering does not provide an autumn planting. The best way to preserve seedlings of fruit and berry plants acquired in the fall is to prikopka for the winter with careful shelter with snow or other protective material and the subsequent spring planting without pruning. The best way to preserve tall, large-sized seedlings and adult fruit plants is their spring planting and transplanting without pruning, using enveloping moss or another similar material of the above plant parts and the presence, if necessary, of systematic moistening of this material in the case of a dry spring.

In my practice, I very rarely plant fruit trees and berry bushes in the fall and never prune them in the first year of planting. Everything that I plant in the fall, I roll up completely with snow to exclude the winter drying and freezing of plants. Once it was possible to transplant in the fall from someone else's garden and a ten-year-old apricot tree. I had to tinker a lot, applying careful wrapping of the trunk, skeletal and thicker branches of the crown with moss and its systematic moistening almost until the end of October, as there was a very dry autumn. With such a planting without any pruning, thanks to the winter, which was not very frosty without a thaw (here I was frankly lucky) and protective measures from preheating, the tree had a great wintering season, even started to bloom in spring and very well caught on. But I always transplant all the adult fruit trees in my garden only in spring. Often I use to save the seedlings purchased in autumn until spring, when prikopkoy them for the winter. I have known about the inexpediency and destructiveness of pruning in the first year of planting for more than half a century, and all this time I have been trying to convey this information to gardeners.

Dear amateur gardeners, after reading this article, draw your own conclusions.

V.N. Shalamov

Pruning seedlings after planting

The need for pruning occurs in the first year after planting. When digging up planting material from the nursery, part of the roots is inevitably damaged, the root system is reduced and it is difficult to cope with the supply of nutrients to the crown. Pruning restores the balance between the root system and the crown, which is necessary for its formation (Fig. 2).

For planting use annual and biennial seedlings. The one-year sapling represents one vertical shoot, it, as a rule, does not have lateral branches. Regardless of the period of planting yearlings need to be cut in the spring. In amateur gardening, it is enough to have a stem 30–40 cm high. 6–8 buds for spindle-shaped and 4–5 buds for other formations are counted from the upper border of the trunk. Above the last bud, the shoot is cut with a garden pruner. The correct cut is made 3–5 mm above the kidney in order not to damage it (Fig. 3). On the trunk, all the kidneys are removed.

Fig. 2. Pruning a two-year-old sapling before planting: pruning the roots, shortening the branches after planting (lines mark the pruning sites)

Fig. 3. Sections of branches: a - the cut is correct, done 3-5 mm above the kidney, so as not to damage it; b - the cut is wrong, very low, the kidney can dry out; in - the cut is wrong, left a stump that prevents overgrowing wounds

In the conditions of the Central Chernozem zone, any type of pruning is best done in early spring: in this case, the wounds are more and more overgrown.

Planted biennial seedlings with sufficiently developed lateral branches — more than 40–50 cm — must be cut (Fig. 2). In the case of a one-year increase of less than 30 cm pruning is better to transfer to the next spring.

When pruning try to observe the so-called subordination of the branches in the tree crown. This means the following. In the crown there should be 4–5 main well-developed skeletal branches that are 12–15 cm apart on the trunk. On each of them branches grow less developed (semi-skeletal). On these last - even smaller. We must not allow two branches of the same thickness to grow from one place, and even at an acute angle of discharge, since later they may break off.

In a seedling, very often the two upper branches (the conductor and the side branch adjacent to it) have the same growth force, grow in the same direction and at an acute angle, forming a fork. In relation to the conductor, the adjacent branch is called a competitor. It should be rejected from the conductor, give a more obtuse angle of discharge, and if this cannot be done, then cut to the ground.

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Every owner suburban area  dreams that garden trees give a rich, generous harvest, and the fruits delighted with bright color, aroma and size. In order to achieve all this in your backyard, do not forget about pruning. And if you haven’t done it yourself before today and don’t know where to start, read this article carefully. It will help you to understand everything correctly.

Pruning of apple seedlings is carried out in two ways: climatic (thinning of the branches) and shortening. In the process of shortening, it is necessary to remove part of the fruitful, perennial or annual branch. Thanks to this type of pruning, it is possible to cause thickening of the shoots, help to eliminate overload of the tree with fruits, slow down the aging process. Shortening will promote the awakening of young buds, change the growth of direction and strengthen the branching.

Thinning is the annular removal of shoots at their base. First of all, get rid of deformed, frozen, dried and thickened branches.

These two types of pruning are carried out simultaneously, regardless of the growth of the seedling and its fruiting. Pruning is an important and serious agronomic method. It is necessary to spend it at a certain time, the most optimal is when the seedling is in a dormant period. Therefore, keep in mind that in each climatic region pruning is carried out at different times. So, if you live in a warm southern area, spend it in the autumn-winter period, and it is advisable for residents of the middle zone to do this procedure at the end of the winter season.

Sapling pruning scheme

If you are pruning in the winter, pay attention to the temperature. It should not be below -10 degrees Celsius. Even better if you wait for the thaw period. If you cut the seedlings in case of severe frosts, the tissue will begin to freeze on sections, which can later lead to the development of diseases. Yes, and wood with significant frosts becomes very fragile.

In the summer, they carry out the so-called green pruning, it includes nipping young shoots. As a rule, such pruning is not very common and is considered auxiliary.

Before you begin the process of pruning, pay attention to the age and characteristics of its varieties. It is also necessary to take into account the size of the crown, the nature and type of wood. So, vigorous trees need to be pruned weakly and not as often as, for example,. If this is neglected and cut strongly, it will contribute to the strong and rapid growth of new shoots. And in the end result, the crown of the tree thickens greatly.

In the first year after planting the seedling is necessary to conduct the first pruning. If it is planted with unbranched annuals, they must be booked - make a cut of annuals. Its height will depend on the growth of the stock. On average, it is approximately 90 centimeters. Varieties on medium growth and seedling rootstocks are cut higher than dwarf and semi-dwarf. As soon as the shoots grow, it is desirable to remove the leaves in the shamba area (scorching). If the seedlings are planted for two years, it will be necessary to shorten the skeletal branches to the outer buds. As a result, we will achieve expansion of the fruit tree. The order of pruning is the following: the upper ones are cut by 2/3 or 3/4, and the lower ones - by 1/3 and even less.

If you cut the seedlings that are incorrectly formed (have a one-sided crown), the branches must be shortened to the lateral buds, which will be directed in the direction where there are no skeletal branches.

Pay attention to the angle at which the skeletal branches deviate from the trunk. If the angle of origin is very sharp, the growth of the skeletal branch will significantly outpace the rate of formation of fruit wood, which may lead to yield loss. Such skeletal branches can also contribute to low photosynthesis, adversely affecting the lighting in the crown. They are very loosely attached to the trunk and in the case of a bountiful harvest, the weight of the fruit can break off. From this it follows that sharp angles during the formation of young fruit trees, it is necessary to increase to at least 50 degrees. In this case, use the struts made of wood or use braces.

And a year after planting, skeletal branches can be cut off, transferring to the outside.

Take into account the ratio of the growth of the lateral processes and the conductor. Everything will depend on the type of crown. If it is spreading, then the conductor itself should be 10 or 15 centimeters higher than the side branches, and if it is pyramidal, then by 25 centimeters. In the event that the central conductor is missing or weakened, it can be replaced by a process that will be located below.

Ways of forming crown seedlings

There are quite a few options for the formation of crown in trees. And if you know at least some, you can independently and most importantly correctly form the correct crown near your trees. Consider the most simple forms. One of the best and lightest is whorled-longline. For its formation is better when the tree has a short trunk, and branching begins at a height of 60 centimeters. If the shoots are located above the specified height, then in the future, when it becomes tall, it will be difficult to harvest from it.

An annual apple tree planted in your garden needs proper trunk formation.  Therefore, a year later, in the spring, it is necessary to trim the top to the spike. They do this on the basis of the rules, namely, at a height of 60 centimeters, 4 buds are counted, and the next two are plucked out, leaving 2 buds above the reserve. In the future, to obtain a vertical form, the strongest and strongest upper shoots that appear will be attached to the spike. So get a new vershinka. Do not forget about the second, weaker sprout. It must be cut. Also, the thorn will not be needed, it will be removed the next year.

It is better if the crown has a beginning in the form of several closely spaced branches, they will form a verticil. The distance between such branches should be no more than 15 centimeters. And for this we left at the very beginning the lower kidneys. After pruning them, new shoots will appear that will form in the future branches of the first order.

The formation of the crown of an apple

Depending on the number of branches in the whorl, the development of the tip will depend.

If only one branch is located below, and there are no others, this is not very good and it is better to refuse to purchase such a seedling. And vice versa, if there are more than 4 of them, then the oppression and weak growth of the apex of the trunk will occur.

All extra branches for 3-4 year must be completely removed. In this case, it is desirable that the angle of separation of the whorls be from 90 to 40 degrees. If this is not observed, and it will be blunt (more than 90 degrees) - the branches will sag and grow badly. In that case, if the angle is less than 40 degrees - such branches from the gravity of the fruit will break.

Little and wait for a good harvest. It will take effort to be fruitful. And it is desirable to start with circumcision and the formation of the crown. Procedures should be carried out while the apple tree is young and its branches are thin. If you do not do it in time, you will often be amazed at the small crop. Thanks to proper pruning, your garden trees will be beautiful, durable and fruitful.

Crown formation in apple seedling (video)

This video will show how to properly form the crown of an apple tree seedling

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