Secrets of the hockey puck: the secret composition and production process. Hockey puck made of plastic What is it made of
PREPARATION OF TABLE HOCKEY
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It is important for any player that table hockey is even, the puck slides well on the ice, and nothing sticks anywhere. To do this, after buying the coveted Stig box in the store, you need to improve hockey a little.
Firstly, for professional tournaments, the plastic bottom in Stiga hockey under the goal is removed and a special bag for pucks is attached. According to international rules, goals are counted if the puck remains in the goal area. Thus, we reduce the number of "shot pucks" and avoid unnecessary disputes.
REMOVING THE PLASTIC BOTTOM UNDER THE GATE
Prepare the necessary tools: a hacksaw blade, fine sandpaper or a flat file. This is all the equipment that we need.
On the first two pictures - the process of preparing the site for the removal of the bottom. We tear off a third of the "ice", carefully so as not to tear it. The "ice" coating is held on a plastic frame with a point fixation on an adhesive Velcro gel. So then you don’t have to re-glue anything, you just need to return the coating to its place, press a little at the “attachment points” and smooth it with your hands.
First you need to cut the puck ejector mechanism, as shown in the picture above. First we saw off one support, then the other. It is advisable to first remove the plastic pusher rod itself so that it does not interfere and does not rattle during operation, but this does not matter, as you like. We cut off the supports flush with the body (level with the parts of the body on which these supports were), so that later there would be no difficulties with gluing the bag. It is always easier and better to glue on a flat, finished surface than on bumps, folds and other irregularities.
This is how the bottom of the gate should look like (in the photo above) after removing the ejector mechanism.
Now let's proceed to the main part of our process - directly to sawing the bottom. The picture below shows how the first cut is made from the bottom edge to the top corner. This cut must be done very carefully so as not to touch the locking lug for fastening the gate (such "bumps" at the edges, for which the gate frame is then attached).
After that, we saw through the bottom diagonally to the front contour of the gate so that there is enough space for a hacksaw blade for a cross cut.
After a diagonal cut, by lightly pressing your fingers down, we simply break off the sawn part of the bottom so that it turns out like in the picture on the left. Next, we make a longitudinal cut identical to the first one, as in the picture on the right.
We saw through the remaining section and the remains of the bottom of the gate are removed. The second picture on the left is the final result of our work. It would be perfectly acceptable to walk around the entire contour of the gate with a file, or a velvet file, to remove burrs. Fine sandpaper is also suitable for this. In total, cutting out takes from one and a half to two minutes of pure time, while without haste and fanaticism.
Now it remains to sew the bag and paste it instead of the bottom of the gate.
MANUFACTURING A BAG FOR WASHER
As a material, you need to use a simple cotton fabric, for example, coarse calico. This is not a strict requirement, but a recommendation, but you should not experiment too much. Attention: do not use knitted stretch fabrics, or thin gauze. To glue the bag, I use the usual Moment Crystal glue, it's just transparent and does not give a caustic rusty tint when it dries. For reasons of aesthetics.
Initially, we prepare a pattern from thick paper or cardboard. Below you can see a schematic drawing-pattern of the future bag. As you can see, it looks a bit like an inverted button-down shirt. 
Let's talk about sizes.
- CD piece - 10 cm (we will glue this side of the bag along the goal line)
- Pieces BC, DE, AB and EF - 9 cm
- Section AF - 26 cm (this side of the bag is glued to the back and sides of the gate)
- Height from point B to segment AF - 4.5-5 cm (this is the "depth" of the bag)
Note that points A and F are not exactly points, but rather small segments. There is no mistake, these are "allowances" of 5-7 mm, which will go away when the sides AB c BC and DE c EF are joined to the seam. Actually, it is already clear what to sew with what: we sew the diagonal edges of the sleeves of our "butt" with the side edges of the shirt itself. Just two seams and the bag is ready. But that's later.
First, cut out the pattern. Then, on a pre-smoothed fabric, we impose a pattern and draw the outline of the future bag along it. All this for accuracy and precision.
What seam and how to sew - it's up to you, even manually, even on a typewriter. The main thing is that as a result you should get a bag for catching pucks, which is more like a protruding pocket in design.
It is not necessary to turn it inside out with the seams, because. over time, dust and dirt will begin to collect in them, in general, this is not very beautiful.
ALTERNATIVE PATTERN OPTION:
This pattern (pictured below) will save some fabric and, more importantly, your sewing work. The dimensions are similar to the previous pattern, only we will give a little more depth: after all, according to the rules, 20 washers should fit in the bag.
For playing at home and training, a shallow bag is more convenient, but a clearing may not be suitable for an official tournament. So, the dimensions (in centimeters):
- AB=GH=10-10.5
- BC=CD=0.5-0.7
- EF=FG=5.5-6.0
- CF=9.0
You need to stitch EF and FG;
BC and CD will "grab" during gluing.
PLUGING THE BAG INTO THE TABLE HOCKEY:
We glue the bag along the contour of the gate, but pay attention how!
- We lift the plastic cover, as we did when removing the bottom of the gate and remove the poles of the figures from the gluing zone.
- Glue is applied immediately around the entire perimeter of the gate frame. We apply it to the frame, and not to the edges of the bag.
- First, glue the side of the CD directly onto the front wall of the goal, where the goal line passes.
- Next, glue the bag to the back wall of the gate frame.
- In conclusion, we glue the sidewalls to the inner area of \u200b\u200bthe frame. *
* - The side walls of the gate frame along the "corner" rolled profile, so you need to glue it on the inside of this "corner" and be sure, until the glue has firmly set, try to evenly stretch the fabric of the bag around the entire perimeter of the gate frame.
The glue hardens very quickly and after 15-20 minutes you can no longer be afraid that the bag will come off. The main load on the bag always occurs when the washer is removed from the bag by hand, mainly at the corners, and the bag glued around the entire perimeter receives a uniform load and lasts a very long time without the risk of being accidentally torn off.
The whole gluing process will take you no more than 5 minutes for both bags.
For reference: earlier, the bag was sewn with a strong nylon thread around the corners to the gate frame. For this, incisions were made on the sidewalls of the frame, and so on ... The sewing process took about 15 minutes for each bag. Bonding is much more reliable and faster.
Secondly, Stig's board game for a longer service life must be lubricated with a special silicone grease. But you need to do this carefully, following the recommendations of experienced players, which we publish in this section:
HOCKEY CARE
Hockey STIGA PLAY OFF, produced by the Swedish concern "Stiga", is the most successful among table hockey, produced by various companies in different countries of the world, and most importantly very reliable.
And if you follow all the points of proper operation, it will serve you for a very long time, even if you play it every day, and will give you a lot of pleasure and exciting moments.
HOCKEY GREASE Stiga:
When buying a new hockey, be sure to lubricate it with silicone grease, this will extend the service life desktop Stig games several times, and it will be much more pleasant to play on it.
It is necessary to lubricate: gears for turning players, guiding the movements of players and control bars for players (Fig-1).
Spray lubricant from a distance of 10-15 cm.
Avoid getting grease on: rubber grips, playing field, and rubber hockey feet.
A little bit of silicone grease gets through the slots on the field, which improves the glide of the puck. There is no need to apply special lubricant to the field.
Silicone grease is produced in the form of an aerosol, and it can be purchased at auto stores.
OPERATION OF TABLE HOCKEY:
1. Very important: avoid kicks in the extreme positions of the players, especially the center forward. This will cut through the field and jam the player in the extreme position.
2. Try not to bend the players control bars, and if they are bent, try to gently straighten them.
3. Dust off the rubber feet of the hockey player, this will make it more stable. For this purpose, under each leg, you can stick pieces of double-sided tape.
4. Over time, the sliding of the puck across the field worsens. To restore the glide, you just need to "clean" the ice surface, wipe it gently with a damp cloth to remove dirt and dust from the surface, and then also gently wipe dry. Sliding may also deteriorate due to wear of the washer, the appearance of notches and microcracks on it. In this case, you just need to replace the washer.
If you follow these simple rules, your hockey will serve you for more than one year.
STIGA HOCKEY REPAIR
This is not to say that table hockey is an extremely fragile thing. The Swedish company Stiga carefully monitors the quality of its products. However, breakdowns do happen from time to time. For professional players, any defect of the court or miniature, even a minor one, is very important.
Many years of practice in the operation of sites allows us to identify a number of typical faults. Of course, in some cases, the hockey "box" is already difficult to repair and it's easier to buy a new table hockey. But you should not despair ahead of time, there are very few such hopeless cases. This section contains articles from leading table hockey experts that will help you repair the Stiga board game yourself:
REPAIR OF STIGA TABLE HOCKEY MINIATURES
Despite the fact that the plastic players of the Stiga board game are very "resistant soldiers", injuries, like in any sport, happen to them. The most common of them * is a fracture of the right leg in the area of the knee joint (it sounds scary, you see, it sounds). And without this “right leg”, it becomes impossible to perform the “horse-stick” technique, and in defense the player becomes more “punched”. You can, of course, just buy a new hockey player miniature. Or a whole team. But there is another way - to restore the player and give him a second life!
In general, a broken player can and should be "healed". The simplest method (glue a leg fragment onto SUPERGLUE type cyanoacrylate) has one drawback - fragility. Very soon, after a few touches and hits of the puck, the hockey player's leg will break off again.
A more reliable "treatment" might look like this. In both fragments, 2 blind holes 1–2.5 mm in diameter and each about 4–6 mm long are drilled strictly towards each other (Fig. 1).
From a metal wire (or nail) of the appropriate diameter, we cut off a piece from 8 to 12 mm long (but not more than the total depth of the holes) and apply shallow risks with a needle file on its entire surface (Fig. 2).
And now our old friend enters the arena - cyanoacrylate glue of the SUPERGLUE type (the more expensive, the better). Carefully pour the glue into the drilled hole (Fig. 3).
We insert a metal pin with a notch into one of them, and then glue the foot of the miniature (Fig. 4).
In this case, the metal rod will reliably reinforce the “knee” even with more serious blows with the puck than before the “fracture”.
* Breakage of the right leg of the miniature hockey player was one of the most common at the time of writing in 2002-2005. Later Stiga eliminated this defect, and the miniatures began to break much less frequently.
REPAIR OF THE STIGA GUARD PROTECTION
Many faced the problem of breaking one of the teeth on the protective board. Well, if this clove was in the middle, then you can do nothing, the side rests on adjacent teeth. Alas, much more often this part of the fastening of the board breaks at the edge, when the miniature of the hockey player convulsively recovered with an awkward movement of the hand. Usually they try to solve this problem by inserting a match or tightly folded paper into the slot, but in this case the plastic bead is almost very weak. Such a design is unbalanced by one strong blow, or by shaking the clearing. Yes, and it does not look very attractive.
The easiest way out of the situation is to buy a set of bumpers in any of the stores that sell Stiga table hockey. In principle, now you can buy any spare parts for hockey Stiga and necessary accessories for the Swedish board game. But there is a way to get out of the situation without additional expenses. And this way of attaching the protective side is quite good. To repair a board for table hockey, we need:
1. Plastic bottle.
2. Scissors.
3. Adhesive tape, preferably transparent.
To get started, take a simple plastic bottle and find an even place on it. From the flattest part of the bottle, you need to cut a strip of 14x60 mm (Fig. 1) and bend it along (Fig. 2). No need to strongly compress the edge, anyway, then it will be necessary to unbend, and the fold should not attract attention, we need it for rigidity.
About a centimeter from the middle, you need to make a small incision with scissors obliquely (Fig. 3). Next, unfold the strip and bend the burr thus obtained. Then bend the strip in half, but already across (Fig. 4).
Glue a strip of adhesive tape on the side of the burr (Fig. 5) and you will have a prosthesis of the lost tooth.
Now you need to fix the protective board with it. To get started, place the board on the clearing and insert all the "working" teeth into their mounting slots. Of course, you cannot insert a broken tooth into the slot, so the edge of the side will stick out to the side (it is assumed that we are repairing the last tooth). Now you need to insert the "prosthesis" into the slot with the burr outward (Fig. 6). When the bent "burr" clicks inside, try to pull it towards you. If you did everything right, then he will resist with all his might, this is what we need. Table hockey repair enters the final stage. Now bend the plate with adhesive tape towards you (it should be on the outside) and put a piece of the bead into place (Fig. 7). Pull the adhesive tape up to the stop and stick the adhesive tape to the plastic side (Fig. 8), preferably with an interference upwards. First you need to thoroughly wipe the part of the side on which the adhesive tape will be glued.
Everything should now hold. Of course, it will fly out, but not with the frequency that the match provided. Yes, it is noticeable that the protective board has undergone repairs, but for someone, this may be the fastest way to continue playing and not waste time and money on buying new parts. This method of repairing the side was tested in a "combat" situation at the Moscow championship in table hockey according to Stiga is still at the beginning of the development of official tournaments. And then many hunters took this method of repairing the sides into service.
REPAIR OF THE MINIATURE OF THE GOALKEEPER
The most common breakage in the “keeper” is a fracture of the hook of his stick. Usually it happens in the place where the outer edge of the left "shield" ends (Fig. 1).
rice. 1
As always, there are several ways to solve the problem. You can just buy a new one desktop hockey, you can go to the store and buy a set of new players, or any other Stig hockey parts. But there is another solution, much more economical. Today I will tell and show you how to repair a goalkeeper from a desktop hockey Stiga.
If the broken off goalkeeper's hook is not lost, then I do this:
1. I drill a hole in the stick f 1 mm in the direction of the supporting leg. The hole is through (Fig. 2), at a distance of 1.5-2 mm from the club surface and exactly along the club stiffener.
rice. 2
2. Then I put a fragment of the hook to the fracture site and through the hole made with the same drill (its length for this must be >= 30 mm) at low speeds of the drill or drill, I make a reciprocal hole in the fragment of the hook. Its depth is 8-12 mm (Fig. 3). It is very important to keep the hole parallel to all the edges of the hook, but this is a matter of attention, accuracy, and later, just experience. 
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3. Now we take a straight piece of steel wire (a coil of "closing" wire is bought in a dentist's office) Ø 1 mm and ~ 20-30 mm long. On it with a needle file I make a series of shallow notches.
4. I glue this rod into a fragment of the hook (Fig. 4) using Super Moment glue or any other cyanoacrylate. At the same time, I smear the rod with glue for half the length and, holding the other half with good pliers, quickly insert a piece of the hook into the hole until it stops.
rice. 4
5. Now, dropping glue on the fracture surface and on the free half of the steel rod, you need to quickly slide the piece of hook into the hole originally drilled in the stick held by the goalkeeper. Follow the exact alignment of the fracture surfaces, because. The glue "seizes" very quickly, sometimes leaving no time for repeated attempts. 
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It remains to cut off the excess wire rod in the area of the goalkeeper's supporting leg. You can also stick a strip of plastic (or plexiglass) no more than 1 mm thick on the surface of an already glued stick, cutting it out, for example, from a broken CD box.
The whole procedure takes me (if I have all the tools and materials) 10-12 minutes, and the result is an almost eternal goalkeeper instead of a candidate for the ballot box.
* Breakage of the goalkeeper's stick was one of the most common in 2001-2006. Then STIGA tried to eliminate this shortcoming, and goalkeepers began to break down much less often.
Dedicated to all hockey fans! There are a lot of bottle openers in stores, reflecting any of the hobbies is also enough. What do you think of the idea of making your own hockey opener? The basis of the opener will be a real hockey puck!
materials
So, to make a bottle opener from a hockey puck, in addition to the puck itself, prepare:
- a piece of solid wood larger than the washer;
- syringe;
- glue;
- a simple opener with a diameter of 3 inches;
- annular drills of different diameters (3; 3.4 and 1.8 inches);
- drills for wood;
- drilling machine;
- hex bolt;
- socket wrench with a hex head;
- hacksaw for metal;
- pencil;
- ruler;
- rag;
- acetone;
- tools for processing wood and metal.
Step 1. Making the washer holder
You will need to drill a few holes in the washer. For accuracy, this will need to be done on a professional drilling machine. In such a situation, holding the puck securely with your own hands will not work. It is for this reason that before starting to make an opener, you need to make a washer holder. To do this, take a solid piece of wood. Use a 3.4" hole drill to cut a hole in it. Its depth should be the same as the height of the washer.
Two holes must be drilled on the sides of the wooden holder so that they go into the sawn circle. Insert hex bolts into these holes. Later, by inserting a washer into the wooden holder, you can fix it by adjusting the bolts.
Step 2. Marking the washer
Take the washer out of the package. Take a ruler and pencil and draw a few lines to determine the center of the puck. Set the puck aside.
Step 3: Trim the Opener Handle
In this case, the opener was with a handle, and it had to be cut off. To do this, you need to take a hacksaw for metal and a file. After sawing off the handle, file the edges of the opener with a file.
Step 4. Making holes in the washer
First, a hole with a diameter of 3 inches must be made in the washer. To do this, insert the washer into a wooden holder, securely fix it with bolts. Make the depth of a large hole according to the size of a metal opener. Once the hole is cut out, make another hole with a smaller hole drill. The depth of the second hole also should not be large.
A very good idea for making a hockey puck from improvised materials.
For this we need:
Materials:
1. Black plastic
2. Coffee jar
Tools:
1. Pliers
2. Scissors
First we need to grind the plastic, as in the photo. Plastic from consoles, tape recorder cases, etc. is well suited. We grind about 300 grams.
Next, we take a jar (with coffee, peas, condensed milk, etc.) and measure 2.5 cm from the bottom to the top.
And we cut. This can be done with ordinary scissors, but metal shears are best.
Then we need to melt the plastic. You need to do this on a fire (on the street), or on an electric stove.
We put pieces of plastic in our form. And we can watch it melt. It is not necessary to make a fire too big, so as not to ignite the plastic, and if this happens, then you need to remove it from the fire and cover with a lid.
Gradually add plastic, in large portions it is better not to pour.
As a result, we got such a consistency that needs to be removed from the fire.
When we removed the jar, we immediately need to cover it with some kind of plane, in my case it is a piece of board. We press the boards tightly with bricks from above. We are waiting for 10-15 minutes.
Then we extract our workpiece.
We take a file or sandpaper and begin to process an almost finished puck, after processing we get a finished hockey puck, it is very strong and slides well on ice.
All fans of the popular air hockey game should like this post.
One craftsman decided to please his son, who loves active board games.
He made an air hockey table with his own hands.
Let's take a look at his creation.
1. Air box. For the bottom of the airbox we need 9mm plywood and for the top 4 strips of laminate flooring. The size of the box will be 1210x770 mm. Cut off the desired piece of plywood slightly larger than the size of the laminate (2-3 mm).
2. Laminate strips are interconnected “into a rigid hook” provided by the plates. By the way, the choice of laminate is not accidental. Before that, there were thoughts of making a base out of plywood, boards, furniture panels, chipboard / fiberboard / MDF boards. But all were rejected due to low strength, softness of the material and the suspicion of damage during drilling (holes should be small and even!).
3. We mark the grid for drilling holes. We retreat 30 mm from each edge (this is the size of each side) and another 10 mm in order not to make extra holes at the side. The pitch between the holes was 20 mm.
4. We take a drill and drill about 2200 holes. The diameter of each hole is 1.5 mm. This is the most time-consuming and tedious operation when building a table. She ate about 4 hours of my life and four drills. I used 7 drills in total (quickly dulled). I did everything in the bathroom, because the srach is unmeasured (because I'm too lazy to clean it up later). Then, with an awl, I expanded all the holes on the back of the laminate.
5. I bought two slats 45x15 3m and cut them into 4 parts (strictly according to the size of plywood). These will be our sides of the air box.
6. We drill holes in plywood (necessarily, otherwise it will crack) and slats and put it all on the bottom of the screws (you can nail it without drilling, but then you need to bite off the sharp end of the nails with wire cutters). In general, you will have to drill here to hell, so you will dream of a drill for a very long time. Anecdote on the subject: Today a neighbor knocked on my door at 3 o'clock in the morning ... Out of fear, the puncher almost fell out of my hands ...
7. Electronics. We rummage through various computer trash and find 6 fans of various capacities and a power button.
8. We also take the power supply from the old scanner. PSU specifications: 12V 1.25A.
9. Sum up the consumption of all fans 0.25+0.22+0.22+0.12+0.12+0.12=1.05A. Yeah, there is still a margin for illuminating the gate with LEDs - that's good!
10. We mark the holes for the fans and places for the mounting screws. We drill holes for the fans and holes for mounting these fans.
11. Kote's younger son came to help.
12. We grind the edges of the holes with a file and fasten the fans. Long stripes on plywood indicate the joints of laminate sheets.
13. Since the construction is heavy and there must be space at the bottom of the table for air to leak, I bought 5 rubber feet (door stops). They are made of very durable rubber and will help keep the table stable. The photo shows a leg with a screw threaded through it.
14. We fix the switch and bring the wires from the power supply to it.
15. We plant the wires of the fans on the terminals.
16. We bring the wires to the gate and glue the LED strip. We solder and check. We fill the soldering with a glue gun.
17. We cut the rest of the 45x15mm plank into 9 pieces and fasten it from below with screws along the seams of the laminate. We also put the rubber feet on the bottom of the screws and fasten from the inside with a nut and a lock nut. It turns out here is such a picture. The power supply wire goes into the table in the lower right corner.
18. We take the usual sealant (I have a transparent plumbing) and coat all the cracks along the edges, as well as the fans along the edge. We also glue the dangling wires and the wire of the power supply with a glue gun to the plywood. "Did you seal the wheel? - Yeah, glued all night. In the morning the owner of the glue will come. ©Boomer»
19. It turns out like this.
20. We buy a side rail 30x15 mm 2mx2 pcs. and cut it into the necessary parts (strictly according to the size of the plywood) and leave a place under the gate. We connect the laminate and put it on the table, having previously smeared the slats attached to the plywood with a sealant on top (we also smear all 9 coasters under the seams of the laminate). We drill holes through this whole hamburger and fasten it to the screws.
21. For the beauty and strength of the side, I took two mirror-polished aluminum corners 30x15 mm 2 meters long. Sawing.
22. Trying on. By the way, on the left in the photo is an excellent device for the knees - I recommend it.
23. Senior assistant.
25. And glue around the perimeter. At the bottom there is a margin of 1.5 cm, at the top 0.5-1 cm.
26. It turns out like this.
27. On top of the bar and the film will be on double-sided tape (It doesn’t really stick to plywood and wood, but the corner will hold it).
28. And from below we print with a furniture bracket.
29. Like this.
30. General view from below.
31. We fasten the metal strips to the sides.
32. The children said it was ready, took away the table, demanded bats and a puck. Let me play a little.
33. Gate. We cut plywood into several pieces.
34. We connect with a clamp, drill holes and screw in the screws.
35. We collect the gate. Let's try it on the table.
36. General view with the gate.
37. Illumination of the gate from the inside in the dark.
38. Closer design of the gate.
39. When checking the gate, the disc, when hit hard on the gate, bounced off the soft wood (slats) and flew back onto the table. To eliminate the defect, we glue the remnants of the aluminum strip to the inclined rail immediately behind the gate on double-sided tape.
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I propose to make table hockey with your own hands. The idea of such table hockey will inflate not only with the simplicity of implementation, although this is also important, but with a completely different one. Just imagine the delight of a small child, because in this toy there will be not only field markings and gates, but also real ice, which, you see, is quite rare for a child's toy.
For table hockey we need:
1.Large but not deep aluminum foil container.
2.Water.
3. Two disposable pipe cleaners.
4. Two wooden spoons (optional, can be replaced).
5. Black button.
6. Thin red ribbon.
7. Blue sticker or blue tape.
8. Scissors.
9. A sheet of white paper or thin cardboard.
We bend the paper, adjusted to the size of the container, in the middle parallel to the smaller edge. Then we bend the paper again, at a distance of two and a half centimeters from the edge. We unfold the sheet of the resulting folds, the marking lines on which we glue the red tape, and the blue semicircles.
Now we place the paper at the bottom of the container and fill it with water until the paper is completely covered. Then add some more water to add thickness to the ice. We put the container in the freezer for several hours. Once the water has frozen, the skating rink is ready.
It remains to make the gate. We connect the ends of the brush with each other, and then we form a square from the brush. We bend the square in the middle at an angle of 90 degrees and we have a gate. Let's make another gate.
From wooden spoons we make clubs, the button is our puck.
You can have competitions.
After the game, the rink must be put back in the freezer so that it is ready for tomorrow's match.
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