Chrysanthemum is the plant's homeland. indoor chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum
Compositae family. Chrysanthemums are native to China and Japan.
Chrysanthemum comes from areas with a mild and moisture-rich climate.
Chrysanthemum reaches its best development under conditions of optimal supply of soil moisture and sufficient moisture content in the air. Dry air, especially if it is accompanied by wind, leads to the formation of small leaves on plants and to premature lignification of the stems, which prevent the normal flow of water and nutrients from the soil. These plants develop small flowers.
Chrysanthemum is a photophilous culture and when growing it, it is necessary to leave a sufficient distance between plants. With dense standing, the plants stretch out, side shoots do not develop.
Chrysanthemums cannot stand wetting the leaves during watering. If watering is done from above, then the leaves turn black and the plant loses its decorative effect. The blackening of the leaves starts from the bottom and gradually spreads up the plant.
Varieties of chrysanthemums cultivated in production during the budding period can endure temperatures down to -4 ° and, with gradual thawing, acquire a normal appearance and continue to develop.
The chrysanthemum is widely spread as an open ground culture in the Krasnodar Territory, the Adygei Autonomous Region and in other areas of the foothills of the Caucasus and the Black Sea coast. In the conditions of the middle zone of the European part of the USSR, only Korean chrysanthemums. These small-flowered chrysanthemums bloom from August until frost.
Chrysanthemum is cultivated for abundant and long flowering. It is used as a pot culture and in the manufacture of flower products.
Chrysanthemum has a wide variety of flower colors: from snow-white to brownish through a range of golden, cream and yellow tones and from snow-white to wine-red through pink tones of different colors and shades.
Korean chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush and cuttings, indian- cuttings. Chrysanthemum almost does not form seeds, since in a dense inflorescence the flowers rot after flowering. In addition, seed filling is prevented by premature (at the end of flowering) drying of the stems.
In school conditions, chrysanthemums are used: as an indispensable material for instilling in students practical skills in vegetative propagation of plants; for work on regulating plant growth by pinching and for the autumn-winter decoration of school premises.
1. For vegetative propagation the best plants are selected according to the beauty of the inflorescence and other characteristics. Selection is made during flowering. The mother liquors are cut at a height of 8-12 cm from the soil and kept in a greenhouse, on a windowsill or between window panes with a temperature of 5-10 °. At this time, the queen cells are exposed as close to the light as possible and provide sufficient ventilation. Watering is normal. In this mode, queen cells are kept until February.
In February, the first cutting of cuttings begins.
Cutting cuttings is always done with an apical bud. Planted cuttings do not require soil heating and are easily rooted at a temperature of 12-13 °.
For the first days, the cuttings are covered with wet paper to retain moisture and shelter from direct sunlight. Pritenka in the next 5-6 days is carried out only in those hours when the rays of the sun fall directly on the cuttings.
The terms of rooting of cuttings by varieties within the culture are not the same: small-colored varieties of chrysanthemums root on the 7-10th day, and large-flowered ones form the first roots on the 12-17th day.
When planting cuttings in pots, these varietal features should be taken into account.
After the cuttings are well rooted, they are planted in pots with an earthen mixture composed of 1 part of soddy soil, 1 part of humus and about 1/6 or 1/10 of sand. Heavy soddy land requires more sand.
The cuttings planted in pots are watered and the pots are placed in a greenhouse in a bright place at a temperature of 10-12 °.
In April, pots with cuttings are taken out to greenhouses, where they are kept with good ventilation and gradually accustomed to air, for which the frames are sometimes removed from greenhouses - first for a short time, and then for whole days.
After frost, chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at a distance of 40-60 cm.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are given 2 transshipments before planting in the ground ( Transshipment - transplanting into a larger pot without destroying the earthy coma). From the racks where the cuttings are rooted, they are planted in pots with a diameter of 5 cm. In May, they are transshipped into pots with a diameter of 16 cm, in which they dig into the ridges at a distance of 40 × 60 cm. Small-colored chrysanthemums are planted in the ground without transshipment.
For normal development, chrysanthemums need regular watering and top dressing, as growth retardation leads to lignification of the stem, which prevents the development of a sufficient number of flowers. Chrysanthemums are fed with a weak solution of slurry (1:8) every 10-12 days. In August, nitrogenous top dressing is stopped, since an excess of nitrogen can cause blackening of the leaves.
2. Large-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums are cultivated with one bole. All side shoots in the initial stage of their development pluck in order to develop one large flower.
Small-flowered chrysanthemums are cultivated in the form of highly branched bushes. For the greatest branching, the plant is subjected to a double pinching, which significantly delays the onset of flowering, but gives well-formed bushes.
The first pinching of the tops of chrysanthemums is done when the plant reaches a height of 12-15 cm, the second when new shoots on the pinched part reach a length of 5-6 cm.
In August, small-flowered chrysanthemums are planted from the ridges into pots, watered abundantly and left in the air with regular watering until the onset of cold weather. If the transplanted plants are immediately brought into the room, then the beginnings of buds that have been laid by this time will stop developing, due to which flowering can be delayed for three weeks.
With the onset of cold weather, chrysanthemums are brought into classrooms, where they are installed on bright and cool windows.
Chrysanthemum is a genus belonging to the Astrov family. The genus includes about 30 species, the homeland of which in most cases is the temperate zone of Asia. The Greek meaning of the word "chrysanthemum" is a sunny flower.
General information
Depending on the type of chrysanthemum, they can differ markedly. The stems of some plants are covered with fluff, and some are bare. The leaves have a different shape, but almost all are mostly alternate and simple, green in color.
In horticulture, in most cases, the Chinese chrysanthemum is used, which is often modified by hybridization to develop new varieties.
There is no established classification of chrysanthemums, but they can be divided according to a large number of characteristics: flower size, inflorescence shape, flowering time and lifespan, growing in the garden or indoors.
Varieties of chrysanthemums with photos and names
Chrysanthemum grandiflorum the flowers of these plants are very large, flower stalks exceed a meter in height. The most common varieties: Anastasia Green , Zembla Lilac And tom pierce .
Usually this species cannot be left for the winter in the garden, but recently varieties have been bred that are now not afraid of our cold weather.
Chrysanthemum midflower the flowers are slightly smaller than the previous species, and the bushes are lower. Can be grown as a potted plant to decorate terraces or balconies.
We usually have varieties: Splashes of champagne , The Golden Fleece , pink chamomile .
Chrysanthemum small-flowered or Korean this species is a perennial that withstands winter cold. The flowers are accordingly not large in comparison with the two above-mentioned species, but the bushes are quite tall.
The foliage is shaped like oak. Flowering falls in autumn and continues until cold weather. Popular varieties: Etna , Slavyanochka , Multiflora .
For the type of inflorescence, they distinguish non-terry , terry And anemone varieties. Terry, in turn, have a separate classification for the shape of the flower.
After flowering, varieties are divided into early flowering , mid-flowering And late .
Annual varieties are chrysanthemum keeled , field or sowing , and coronal .
Almost all other varieties are perennials that grow in herbaceous or bush form.
Chrysanthemums perennial planting and care
Planting and caring for chrysanthemums is quite simple and comes down to a few rules. Young plants that produce leaves should be pinched off when eight leaves appear on them - this will help the bushes branch better.
The side stems also need pinching. But if you grow a large-flowered chrysanthemum, then the side shoots need to be completely cut off, retaining only a couple of the strongest. Cut stems can be easily rooted. If you have a high grade, then take care of the escape support.
Watering chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums require heavy watering. With a lack of liquid, their shoots harden, and the flowers do not look so beautiful. Water carefully so that water does not drip onto the foliage.
When watering, you need to loosen the soil and pull out weeds, but these procedures can be avoided by covering the area with mulch after planting.
Fertilizers for chrysanthemums
Another important item in the care of chrysanthemums is fertilizer. During the period of active growth, at least three fertilizers should be made, alternating mineral and organic top dressing.
Among the mineral, it is worth noting nitrogen, which help to better grow leaves, and phosphorus-potassium, due to which the formation of buds will increase. You need to use liquid top dressing, which is poured under the root a day after watering.
Among the organics, we highlight mullein and bird droppings, but do not overdo it, using them so as not to destroy the plants.
Chrysanthemum transplant and bush division
When growing a chrysanthemum in one place for more than 3 years, it begins to suffer and this is reflected in the flowering process and the health of the plant.
All three-year-old plants need a transplant, with which the bush is divided. The flower must be carefully dug up, cleaned of the soil and the plants cut into several parts, so that each has a part of the rhizome. Further, these delenki simply land on a lighted place.
With the advent of autumn, it is necessary to carry out the last fertilizer of chrysanthemums with potassium-phosphorus top dressing - this will help them better endure the cold.
How to save chrysanthemums in winter
With the advent of frost, it is necessary to cut off the top of the bushes, leaving about 10 cm above the ground. Next, the bushes must be spudded and the entire area should be mulched with a thick layer of dry foliage.
Covered should be warm, but breathable, as otherwise the flowers may sweat under the mulch. For the winter, tall varieties with large flowers cannot be left in the garden, because they cannot stand our cold weather.
To keep them until spring, you can remove the mother bushes from the soil and, together with the earth on the roots, place them in a lighted and cool place with a temperature of about 5ºC and high humidity. Sometimes you need to moisten the ground on the roots so that it is a little damp.
Also, these bushes can be left for the winter right in the cellar, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below zero.
Chrysanthemum room care at home
If you want to grow chrysanthemum indoors, then you don’t have to strain yourself too much.
The main thing is to place it in a place with strong diffused light, water it a lot and spray the flower from time to time to increase humidity. Transplant every year, but do not rush to transplant a flower after purchase - it needs time to acclimatize in a new place.
Fertilizers should be applied the same as for garden chrysanthemums - nitrogen during the period of growing green mass, and potassium-phosphorus during budding.
Chrysanthemums from seeds planting and care
The easiest ways to propagate chrysanthemums are cuttings and dividing the bush, but it is also possible to grow flowers from seeds.
In order to propagate chrysanthemum with seeds, it is necessary in May, when it becomes quite warm, to dig holes at a distance of about 20 cm from one another. They are well moistened and placed in each pair of seeds. Next, the seeds fall asleep and cover the area with oilcloth.
With the emergence of seedlings, the oilcloth is removed, and the soil is loosened a little and the weeds that have appeared are removed. After 10 days, young plants are fertilized with Ideal or Rainbow top dressing of a very low concentration. When reaching 10 cm in height, the sprouts can be thinned out, leaving the strongest. Other seedlings can be transplanted.
soil for chrysanthemums
To grow seedlings of chrysanthemums, you need to prepare a substrate from greenhouse soil, humus and peat in the same ratio. You can buy such soil, or you can make it yourself, but in this case it will need to be disinfected by heating it to a high temperature.
Place a broken brick drainage in a planting container, fill in the soil and spread the seeds on top. If you have annual varieties, then their seeds are covered with a thin layer of soil, no more than half a centimeter, and if perennial, then they are simply pressed into the ground a little.
Chrysanthemum in a pot home care
With the advent of seedlings, a container with plants is placed in the brightest place at home and the glass is removed daily for a short time, daily increasing the hardening time. With the formation of a pair of true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers with the same substrate as before.
Too weak individuals are pulled out. After diving, the plants are treated with a solution of epin, which will help you get used to the new pot sooner.
Dive chrysanthemums are kept at a temperature of about 17ºC. They are watered when the need arises, and once every 15 days they are fertilized with complex top dressing. If the daylight hours are too short, then it is necessary to extend it with the help of phytolamps. Do not be alarmed if the seedlings grow slowly - this is normal.
Planting chrysanthemums
Seedlings should be planted when the threat of frost has completely passed, that is, at the end of spring. You can also plant in the fall, but do not delay so that at least 15 days remain before the onset of frost.
The landing site should be very well lit and not blown by the wind so that the chrysanthemum does not suffer from drafts. It is also impossible for the site to be located in a lowland, since the rhizome in this case can easily rot.
Chrysanthemums need slightly acidic soil or neutral acidity. If your soil is too sandy or clayey, then you need to feed it with organic matter. At the same time, remember that chrysanthemums are better at humus than manure.
To plant chrysanthemums, you need to wait for a gloomy day. Seedlings are planted in a trench, about 40 cm apart. Planted plants should be watered with diluted root (1g / 1l).
After these procedures, the chrysanthemum must pinch off the growth point. Next, the plants are covered with something like lutrasil, until they are accepted.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings
You can also use cuttings for propagation. With the temperature set in the region of 22ºC, you need to cut off the cuttings (you can use only those shoots that come from the rhizome, it will not work to propagate the flower by the side) just above the kidney.
The cuttings should not be large - about 7 cm. The cutting is treated with a root growth stimulator and placed at an angle of 45 degrees in the soil, covered with a couple of centimeters of sand.
Rooting should take place in a well-lit place, the soil should be moistened, and the temperature should be kept in the region of 17ºC, and after 15-20 days the plants will sprout roots. Wait a little more and it will be possible to plant plants in the garden plot.
Diseases and pests
Chrysanthemums do not get sick so often, but with the appearance of large weeds and violation of the rules of care, various diseases can appear.
Fungal diseases are:
- vertical wilt - the fungus infects the rhizome of the plant, due to which the leaves begin to turn yellow and the shoot withers and dies.
- powdery mildew - forms a white coating on the foliage and flowers of chrysanthemums.
- Rust - covers all plants with brown spots, the foliage turns yellow as a result of the defeat, and the shoot becomes thinner.
- Gray rot - forms spots on the leaves, which eventually cover with fluff and spread over the entire plant.
There are also cases of viral diseases.
late autumn
None compare to a flower
With white chrysanthemum.
Give her your place
Avoid her, morning frost!
Saigyo (Sato Narikii)
Chrysanthemum garden perennial planting and caring for which for most gardeners is more fun than labor, decorates gardens and flower beds until the very cold. Blooming from the second half of summer until the frosty days of late autumn, chrysanthemums are often called the queens of the autumn ball. Delicate, slightly bitter aroma and a variety of colors combine the joy of summer and the sadness of autumn.
Origin of chrysanthemum
Although the history of chrysanthemums dates back more than one and a half thousand years, scientists still have not come to a consensus on where this beautiful autumn flower came from in modern gardens. The magical legends about the chrysanthemum and the special respect it enjoys in Japan lead researchers to believe that the East is the birthplace of the autumn beauty.
Interesting! So far, chrysanthemums have not been found in the wild in nature.
According to one of the legends, the chrysanthemum appeared on earth from parts of the sun, which was stolen by an evil dragon, which is confirmed by its very name - golden-colored, translated from Greek. In China, in garden conditions, chrysanthemum was cultivated as early as the 5th-6th century BC. e., in any case, the first written mention of it comes from Confucius. By the way, it is he who owns the wonderful words:
“If you want to be happy all your life, grow chrysanthemums”
But it came to the countries of Europe only in the 17th century. The French and the British are still arguing where exactly it appeared earlier - in England or in France, while chrysanthemum came to gardeners in Russia in the 19th century.
Types and varieties of perennial chrysanthemum photo
More than seven hundred varieties of chrysanthemum, which are currently actively grown by flower growers of all countries, are usually classified according to the type of inflorescence:
- pompon - a small rounded inflorescence;
- cirrus, in which the core is not visible behind the terry petals;
- bristly - terry inflorescences with thin, beautifully curved petals;
- simple, or semi-double, very similar to daisies;
- anemone-shaped, in which a flat inflorescence with a well-opened core;
- fantasy, as a kind of pinnate, owners of graceful elongated petals;
- spoon-shaped, in which the petals are thin at the core and expand towards the ends;
- Korean - especially resistant to cold, with small inflorescences;
- large-flowered, the diameter of the flower in which sometimes exceeds 12 centimeters;
- multiflora, forming a bush-ball with numerous small flowers.
All of the listed species, as well as varieties and hybrids of chrysanthemums, are conditionally divided into two large groups - tall and short. Tall chrysanthemums are planted in groups, even in arrays, while undersized ones look great in borders, mixborders, and also in free-standing garden containers.
According to the degree of resistance to adverse conditions of breeding and growing chrysanthemums can be divided into three groups:
- Korean varieties of chrysanthemums, or, as they are often called in Russia, oaks, are considered the hardiest, they can be grown in very cold regions.
- The Susan's Bonnet variety is also cold-resistant, suitable for growing almost throughout our country.
- Fantasy, a Japanese cultivar more accustomed to milder climates, grows and flowers well in southern regions.
Planting garden perennial chrysanthemums
Location selection
Important! Chrysanthemums do not tolerate shade very well: the stems stretch out, become thin, brittle, the flowers become very small, it is quite possible that they will not exist at all or they will bloom too late. Also, these flowers categorically do not like places where water stagnates, melt, rain or after watering.
Therefore, when determining a place for planting chrysanthemums, you need to stop your choice in open sunny places. At the same time, preference is given to slightly elevated areas, since water does not stagnate on them.
You also need to take into account that strong winds adversely affect the development of chrysanthemums, so the place for planting them must be protected from the wind.
Soil for chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums are also demanding on the soil. They grow well in neutral or slightly acidic soils. At the same time, in addition to good moisture permeability, the soil requires its friability and saturation with organic nutrients.
If the area suitable for illumination is characterized by dense or infertile soil, it must be improved before planting flowers.
To improve drainage, river sand of a large fraction, previously well washed, is usually used. To increase fertility, either rotted manure, or compost or peat is added to the soil.
It is enough to add one bucket of such organic matter for every square meter of plantings. It is not worth increasing this amount, because I will “fatten” chrysanthemums on overfertilized land: there will be a lot of greenery, leaves, but there will be very few buds, respectively, and flowers.
If the soil is sandy, light, it is weighted with humus or soddy soil. It is also recommended to apply complex mineral fertilizer during planting, do it directly in place: fall asleep in a hole or trench. 
Landing time
The best time for planting perennial chrysanthemums is the spring months. In this case, they will take root well before the fall and develop sufficiently to please with flowers in the fall. Since planting material is usually purchased in the spring, as a rule, these are rooted cuttings or cuttings of bushes, then they will need to be planted in the near future. For the Middle Strip, this is usually the end of May - the beginning of June.
Important! Cuttings and cuttings are planted when the threat of return frosts has finally passed.
Planting chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums are usually planted in cloudy, even rainy weather. If the days are sunny, planting is done either in the morning or before sunset.
I dig holes for chrysanthemums not very deep - so that the roots fit in them without deepening. If a tall variety is planted, you need to immediately dig in plant supports so as not to subsequently injure the roots.
Chrysanthemums are planted at a distance of 25-50 centimeters from each other, in most cases a more accurate figure is determined by varietal characteristics. It is not necessary to shake off the earth from the roots, so the cuttings and delenki will take root much faster.
After planting, it is advisable to water the soil around the cuttings (delenok) with a root formation stimulator, so a powerful root system will form faster, and by autumn the plant will come up strong and healthy.
At first, seedlings need to be covered with non-woven material. Shelter will protect them from the hot sun or from spring unexpected cold snaps.
Garden chrysanthemum care
Chrysanthemum is considered quite unpretentious garden plant. But still, she needs care. The main care activities are watering, fertilizing, loosening, mulching, tying to supports.
H. Korean
Watering and loosening
An extremely drought-resistant chrysanthemum, however, simply loves moisture. Usually, before the flowering period, it needs abundant watering, without which its stems coarsen, the leaves wither and fall off, the flowers become smaller and fade.
The most important for chrysanthemum are the first months after planting, when its root system is formed and grows. At this time, she especially needs abundant watering and regular (at least 1 time per week) loosening of the soil. After a month, loosening is stopped, since the growth of young shoots from the roots begins, and they are easily damaged during loosening.
Mulching
No less than moisture, chrysanthemum loves mulching. Pine needles or shredded bark, as well as oat straw, are best suited for this purpose. Mulch will protect the plant from fungal pathogens that can get on the stems and leaves during watering or rain with water drops.
top dressing
Since chrysanthemums are fast growing, they need frequent feeding.
Important! Any fertilizers are applied in liquid form only under the root and only in moist soil.
In the first one and a half to two months, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing its green mass, it needs fertilizers in the ratio N:P:K (nitrogen - phosphorus - potassium) = 2:1:1.
The nitrogen component has a positive effect on the height of flowers, the number of young shoots, the degree of color and the size of leaves and flowers. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the lack of nitrogen fertilizers leads to fading of the color of the leaves and petals, the flowers are small, ugly.
Important! During the period of growth of the green mass, chrysanthemums are fertilized with ammonia nitrogen, during the budding period - with nitrates.
The first feeding is carried out immediately after planting, when the seedlings begin to grow. The second top dressing, preferably with mullein or a solution of bird droppings, is applied two weeks after the first.
When the first buds appear, the chrysanthemum will need phosphorus-potassium top dressing. Phosphorus increases the quantity and quality of flowers, increases the flowering time, and also positively affects the plant's resistance to diseases. Phosphate fertilizers or bone meal are applied at the rate of 50 grams per square meter.
Potassium also improves the immunity of chrysanthemums and improves the quality and appearance of inflorescences. Usually potassium sulfate is used as a fertilizer, it is considered the most suitable for chrysanthemums.
Care of appearance and garter of chrysanthemums
Since pests often settle in old, withered leaves, and they are also the most vulnerable in terms of diseases, they must be cut off in a timely manner throughout the growing season.
So that the stems of chrysanthemums do not suffer from wind or heavy rain, as they grow, they are tied to supports - stakes that are dug in during planting.
Planting perennial chrysanthemums before winter
Although it is best to plant chrysanthemums in spring, autumn planting is also possible. Moreover, in autumn you can see them in all their glory and buy not a pig in a poke, but something that really fascinated.
Important! Autumn planting of chrysanthemums must be completed before the end of September.
For the southern regions, this period is extended by 2-3 weeks. The guideline should be the approximate time of full rooting - 5-6 weeks.
Important! If the bush acquired in the fall is large, it cannot be divided so as not to prolong the stress of the plant dug out of the ground during the flowering period.
After planting, the flowers and all buds must be removed: the flower should not expend energy on flowering, they must be directed to rooting and survival. In this state, chrysanthemums are left until the first frost, and then the stems are cut as close to ground level as possible. Then the bush is covered with dry leaves or peat. If these materials are not at hand, the bushes are sprinkled with dry earth.
If winter happens to be cold and snowless, chrysanthemums planted in autumn will need additional shelter. It is constructed using spruce branches, dry plant residues, cardboard boxes or wooden (plywood) boxes. At the same time, it becomes necessary to control the air temperature: with signs of a steady warming, the shelters must be dismantled so that the roots and offspring of chrysanthemums do not rot.
Propagation of perennial chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemums reproduce in three main ways:
- through seeds;
- cuttings;
- division of the bush.
Most gardeners prefer cuttings as the most effective way to obtain excellent planting material, which retains all varietal characteristics and features.
Sowing seeds
Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemums by seeds is a thankless process: all species and varieties are complex hybrids, and even God does not know what will grow from seeds collected independently.
However, lovers of surprises often experiment with seeds of small-flowered varieties. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown both for seedlings and directly in open ground. In the second half of February or early March, seeds are sown in seedling boxes with moist soil for early flowering.
Important! Seeds are not buried, as they need light to germinate.
Chrysanthemum seeds germinate quickly enough - in a week. The grown seedlings dive into separate pots, where they grow until the time when they can be planted in open ground - until about mid-May. At the end of June it will be possible to admire the first flowers.
In open ground, seeds are sown in May, in the ground prepared, as for cuttings or seedlings. Usually, several pieces of seeds are placed in each well. The holes are placed at a distance of 25-30 centimeters. Such chrysanthemums will bloom in autumn.
It will not be superfluous to know that there are times when chrysanthemums grown from seeds begin to bloom only in the second year.
cuttings
Chrysanthemum cuttings are cut throughout the growing season, but preference should still be given to cut ones in spring or autumn.
For cuttings, strong, low shoots are usually selected, from which the upper part with three to four leaves is cut off. The lower one is removed, the upper ones are best left, as they speed up the rooting process. Spring cuttings are planted immediately in the ground and taken care of them, like a ready-made chrysanthemum bush: they are regularly watered, loosened the ground and fed.
Cuttings cut in autumn are planted in pots with fertile loose soil. For several weeks, usually 4-6, they are moderately watered, to maintain moisture, you can cover them with a transparent cover. Then the pots with cuttings are transferred to a bright, cool room with a temperature of 4-6 degrees. With moderate watering, they are kept under these conditions until the first of February.
In early February, pots with cuttings should be placed in a bright warm room, air temperature 12-16 0C, watered abundantly. A week after the move, the first fertilizing is carried out with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, 20 grams of ammonium nitrate diluted in 10 liters of water.
Interesting! Practice shows that in order to harvest chrysanthemum cuttings, it is not necessary to cut the stems. Perfectly take root and root cuttings that break off from the stems.
Autumn cuttings are also applicable to those chrysanthemums that are sold in the cut, and it does not matter how long ago the flowers were cut. Before planting, the cuttings are preliminarily kept for 6-8 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator. The further process of their rooting takes place in the same way as freshly cut cuttings.
The division of the bush
Chrysanthemum bushes are divided at any warm time of the year, including during flowering, if necessary. But at the beginning of summer, young shoots grow at maximum speed, and dividing the bush during this period will be most effective.
For division, they dig a bush with a large number of young shoots, free the roots from the ground and cut them so that each separated shoot has its own root. But if some shoots are without roots, there will be no particular trouble - they take root easily, like ordinary cuttings.
Then the delenki are seated in holes dug in such a way that the roots fit in them. Deepening of the stems in this case is not required.
Important! During the entire rooting period, the soil under the bushes should be moist.
The planted delenki are pinched, each sprout above the 5th leaf, then the overgrown stepchildren are pinched, also above the 4th or 5th leaf. If a large-flowered chrysanthemum bush is divided, pinching is done only once.
For better growth and full development of chrysanthemums, it is recommended to divide and plant them once every three years, but at least once every five years.
Chrysanthemum multiflora
The relatively recently appeared chrysanthemum multiflora has won the hearts of many gardeners. The main reasons are a spherical bush that easily fits into any garden composition, abundant early flowering and a large selection of colors.
Multiflora is a small-flowered chrysanthemum that is usually grown in garden pots or containers. She feels great in greenhouses, on balconies, verandas, in the open field. Among the multiflora there are varieties that begin to bloom in August.
X, multiflora
X. multiflora spherical
X. multiflora Branopal Pink
Multiflora is interesting in that its spherical shape does not require maintenance efforts, it does not need to be pinched or pinched. Such is the genetics. One small cutting per season is formed into a fluffy ball strewn with small bright flowers. To do this, he only needs one pinch at the stage of the second pair of true leaves.
Important! Although in appearance the multiflora chrysanthemum is similar to indoor varieties, it is not suitable for indoor use.
Caring for multiflora is no different from caring for garden perennial chrysanthemums. The whole difference is only in the organization of wintering.
At the end of flowering or when cold weather sets in, the aerial part of the multiflora is cut off to give an additional incentive for the spring formation of young strong shoots.
Multiflora growing in open ground for the winter must be dug up and placed in a container. When cold weather sets in, all containers are brought into a cool dark room, the temperature in which is in the range of 3-5 0 C, not too humid. All care during the wintering period is to maintain the soil in a moist state.
The open ground multiflora is able to endure the winter without digging only in the southern regions, but it is imperative to build a light shelter that is removed during thaws and with the onset of consistently warm weather.
In April, containers with multiflora are placed in a bright, cool room. When the buds begin to grow, the uterine bush is divided and planted either in suitable containers or in open ground, adding complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter to the soil.
Multiflora does not tolerate shady places, winds and stagnant water. In hot weather, container bushes need more frequent and abundant watering, but overwatering is unacceptable. When planting multiflora in open ground, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the bushes of at least 60 centimeters.
Chrysanthemum multiflora is a rather expensive plant, since it is already sold in bloom. Interestingly, sellers of multiflora rarely admit to buyers that these flowers are perfectly propagated by cuttings or dividing the bush.
Planting chrysanthemums and caring for them in the Urals
The main problem that growers of the Ural region face when growing perennial chrysanthemums is a rather short time. Flowers simply do not have time to gain enough strength for full bloom.
There are also difficulties associated with frosty winters: freezing of bushes during wintering in the open field, the difficulty of storing a large amount of planting material. To minimize all the risks of growing chrysanthemums in such harsh conditions, gardeners give preference to local varieties, that is, they try to purchase seedlings from local nurseries or from their neighbors.
Important! When choosing planting material for growing chrysanthemums in the Urals, it is imperative to choose early-flowering zoned frost-resistant varieties.
Chrysanthemum seedlings are best planted in open ground at the end of April, immediately covering them with a film. Preference is given to strong, strong shoots. Weaker ones can be grown at home on a sunny windowsill. Late-flowering varieties can also be grown in this way.
You can also successfully grow chrysanthemums from seeds, since literally from the first day they will grow only in the local climate. At the same time, they develop more successfully than their relatives grown from cuttings or cuttings, and actively bloom from the end of summer. Seeds are sown for seedlings in early April, and at the end of May they are transplanted into open ground.
Important! Chrysanthemums grown from seeds should spend the first winter in gentle conditions - in rooms with a low temperature.
Particular attention is paid to the shelter of chrysanthemums for the winter. Tall varieties are cut to 30 centimeters, all leaves and damaged parts are removed. Then the bushes are carefully spud using peat or sawdust. Hilled bushes are covered with spruce branches, and on top - with spunbond.
Small-flowered undersized chrysanthemums are cut at the root before wintering, they are also spudded and covered with spruce branches, a breathable film material. Often, wooden shields are used as additional shelter.
Many Ural gardeners do not risk leaving chrysanthemum bushes for the winter in the open field. Before the onset of cold weather, they cut the bushes to the ground, dig them up and, together with a clod of earth, place them in containers or other suitable containers.
Store containers in the basement or cellar, occasionally moistening the soil. In March, the plants are moved to well-lit places, divided, and poor-quality shoots that are too long are discarded.
If there are a lot of chrysanthemums, and this storage method becomes problematic, you can do it differently. The roots of the dug bushes are freed from the ground and placed in fabric bags, sprinkling them with peat. Such bags are stored in the basement or cellar, it is possible in limbo. Periodically moisten the bags.
Otherwise, planting and caring for chrysanthemums does not differ from growing them in other regions.
Pests and diseases
Pests
Aphids are the main pest of chrysanthemums. Moreover, on one stem you can often see colonies of different species of this sap-sucking insect. They are most often located on the stems near the buds, sepals and undersides of the leaves.
With a small number of insects, they can be washed off with water. If they overpopulated the plant, it is necessary to use chemical insecticides, to which soap is added, or vegetable infusions - onions, garlic, tobacco or marigolds.
The chrysanthemum nematode is a thread-like variety of the mealy worm. The pest is practically invisible to the naked eye, but its presence is determined by white spots that darken to brown over time. The leaves, when affected by this pest, curl, dry and fall off. If measures are not taken in time, underdeveloped ugly flowers will form.
Nematodes are usually introduced by rainfall or dew, or from contaminated soil or neighboring plants. Since the nematode hibernates in the stems remaining above the ground, it is advisable to spray the plants with a solution of phosphamide in spring and autumn.
Important! Infected plants are removed and burned, and the soil is treated with formalin.
The meadow bug is also a sap-sucking insect, the signs of the attack of which are the appearance of whitish spots on the leaves, the formation of ugly buds and flowers. It also overwinters in the remains of the stems, therefore, as in the previous case, treatment with phosphamide is necessary (10 grams are dissolved in 10 liters of water). In the warm season, plants are treated with the same means as in the fight against aphids.
Important! The treatment of chrysanthemums against meadow bugs is best done in the early morning hours or in cloudy weather, when insects are inactive.
Thrips are sap-sucking insects. When attacked by thrips, the leaves become covered with whitish or yellowish spots, deformed. Inflorescences also lose their decorative effect. Aktellik and Bi-3 preparations, as well as onion and garlic infusions, have proven themselves well in the fight against thrips.
The larvae of the May beetle eat the roots of chrysanthemums, causing the death of the bush. To combat it, the drug Bazudin is used or chrysanthemums are watered weekly with a 5-day infusion of onion peel (up to a third of the volume of the bucket is densely filled with peel and filled with water).
Drooling pennitsa - usually affects greenhouse chrysanthemums. Against it, insecticides such as Phytoferm or infusions of onions or garlic are used.
Important! Proper care of chrysanthemums and timely watering and feeding increase the resistance of chrysanthemums to pest attacks.
Diseases
Powdery mildew, as a rule, affects plants in hot weather, accompanied by heavy dew. The lack of calcium and nitrogen reduces the resistance of chrysanthemums to the disease. In some cases, low resistance to fungal diseases in chrysanthemums is associated with the characteristics of the variety.
To prevent the disease, the distance between plantings should be carefully observed so that they are well ventilated. Also, as a preventive measure, spraying with copper-containing preparations with the addition of detergents is carried out. Affected plant parts are removed and burned.
Gray rot is also a fungal disease that manifests itself in grey-brown spots that appear on the above-ground parts of flowers. The main reasons for the appearance of gray rot are excess moisture, poor ventilation, excess nitrogen, and increased soil acidity.
As a preventive measure, once every two weeks, plantings are sprayed with solutions of copper-containing preparations. When a disease is detected, all affected parts, and in advanced cases, entire plants are destroyed.
Important! Diseases are often transmitted through contaminated garden tools.
Root cancer is manifested by growths in the lower part of the stems and on the root collar. Usually spreads through the soil. Sick plants are removed from the flower garden and destroyed. It is useless to fight root cancer, since at the moment there are no countermeasures. The soil where the affected plants grew is treated with formalin.
Leaf rust appears as yellowish-greenish spots on the upper side of the leaves. At the same time, convex pustules are on their lower part. In general, the picture of the disease resembles a burn. The leaves around the spots gradually turn yellow, curl, die. As with most fungal diseases, high humidity and heat are favorable conditions for the development of rust. For treatment, plants are treated with copper-containing preparations.
Septoria (leaf spot) is manifested by brown-black spots, small at the beginning, then merging into one, almost completely covering the leaf. The disease spreads from the lower leaves to the upper ones. Affected leaves first turn yellow, then dry up and fall off.
Important! The causative agent retains its viability on fallen or cut parts.
When treating chrysanthemums for septoria, all damaged and fallen leaves are removed and burned. During top dressing, increase the amount of potassium and phosphorus. Whole plants are sprayed with copper-containing preparations with the addition of soap.
Where to buy planting material
It is best to buy cuttings, delenki or seedlings of chrysanthemums in specialized local nurseries. These will be healthy plants that are intended for growing in this particular area.
A great option is to buy planting material from neighbors in their summer cottage. In this case, not a pig in a poke is bought, and the growing conditions are almost the same.
Buying chrysanthemums for growing in flower shops is not the best option. If the store has a very large assortment of goods, there is a high probability that the plants are not properly cared for. It may also come across a variety that will not be able to overwinter.
The same risks will be when buying seedlings or cuttings in the markets, from unfamiliar sellers. It is not a fact that the purchased planting material will correspond to the name that the seller will give it. It is also quite possible to buy a seedling infected with diseases or pests.
When ordering planting material through online stores, you need to choose only those varieties of chrysanthemums that will be adapted for growing and full flowering in this region.
Final part
The right choice of variety ensures that perennial garden chrysanthemum will grow successfully in almost all climatic conditions of our country. Produced in a suitable place at the required time, planting and careful care will pay off with the lush long flowering of the autumn queen of the garden.
This species is equally well assigned to the genus Matricaria (chamomile), and to the genus Tanacetum(tansy). The plant has a characteristic flower structure and smells very strongly. The smell is felt even at a distance, and especially if you crush the leaf in your hands - you won’t get rid of the obsessive aroma for a long time. The plant is erect, branched, 15-20 cm high and 12-14 cm in diameter. The leaves are pinnately dissected, fragrant. Baskets are small, 2.1 cm in diameter, non-terry. Marginal reed flowers are white, tubular flowers are yellow. The inflorescences are collected in umbellate corymbs. The beginning of flowering is the second decade of July, the duration is 60-70 days. Seeds ripen in September.
Homeland - the Mediterranean.
Native to Southeast Asia.
An ornamental flowering semi-shrub plant cultivated for several millennia and numbering more than two thousand varieties, the number of which increases from year to year. Beautiful leaves and diverse, often bizarre, flower shapes, the widest range of flower colors (from dark, velvety, almost black to bright red, yellow, lilac, purple, white, etc.) have deservedly been very popular with flower growers for centuries. In terms of durability in the cut, chrysanthemums are champions among flowers cultivated for this purpose. All this determines the indispensable inclusion of them in the autumn-winter assortment. Chrysanthemum requires a cool location. At high temperatures, her leaves turn yellow and dry out, wither and dry prematurely and flowers.
3
- elegant, continuously blooming from June to October. Plants form powerful bushes, branched at the base, 60-90 cm high and 80-90 cm in diameter. The leaves are double-pinnate with linear lobes, serrated at the top. Baskets are simple, semi-double and terry. The diameter of the inflorescences is 4.5-5.5 cm. Non-double inflorescences are usually tricolor, a bright purple-brown wide ring passes along the white or yellow ray ribbon-like reed flowers, and a brown spot in the center of the basket. Flowering begins in the second decade of June and continues until the end of August. Seeds ripen in September, crumbling, give self-sowing. The plant is light-loving, cold-resistant. Planted in mid-May. This African plant came to Europe only at the end of the 18th century. The flowers are similar to chamomile flowers, in which the reed petals are two- and even three-colored, mostly simple, but there are also terry ones, with two rows of petals. They are sown in the ground immediately to a permanent place in early May. Shoots appear in about a week. They are thinned out or dive according to the scheme 25 × 25 cm. Plants bloom after 100 days and bloom until late autumn. The plant is suitable for cutting. It looks good in a group on the lawn, it is also used in discounts.
Soils prefer moderately fertile, slightly acidic or neutral, sunny location. The plant is cold hardy and drought tolerant.
Synonyms: Florist's mum mother of florists Pot mum- mother in a potty.
Chrysanthemum of hybrid origin. Perennial undersized plant up to 40 cm high (but sometimes up to 130 cm). Stems are strong, erect or ascending, woody at the base with age. The leaves are slightly fleshy, lanceolate, oval-lobed or oval, up to 7 cm long, and are fragrant. The lobes are solid, coarsely toothed, their lower surface is covered with gray felt pubescence. Inflorescences - baskets, simple, semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5-7 cm in diameter, single or collected 2-10 on leafy lateral branches. The ligulate flowers, called petals, are longer than the disc and are variable in color. The inner (tubular) flowers are yellow.
Indoor chrysanthemum is an unpretentious plant that belongs to the Compositae family. The name "chrysanthemum" comes from the Greek chrysos(gold) and anthos(flower).
These flowers are grown mainly in open ground, but they also feel good at home. Thanks to this, the chrysanthemum can please the eye with its bright colors almost all year round. After all, its inflorescences have a wide variety of colors: white, yellow, bronze, red, burgundy, pink, lavender, purple.
China is considered the birthplace of this plant. Today, home chrysanthemum is ubiquitous. Despite the fact that this flower does not require special attention, you should know some rules that will ensure the best conditions for it.
Caring for room chrysanthemum
The place where the chrysanthemum will stand should be moderately cool. A balcony is well suited for growing this plant. Chrysanthemum does not like direct sunlight, but it is not necessary to deprive it of light either, otherwise the buds will not open, and the leaves may turn yellow.
In especially hot hours, it is necessary to artificially create a shadow for the plant. To obtain abundant and lush flowering, it is necessary that the temperature does not exceed 18 degrees. Thus, it is important to provide the chrysanthemum with coolness and enough light.
This plant does not need abundant watering, so it is enough to moisten the soil a couple of times a week. But in the morning and in the evening it will be useful to spray it from a spray bottle.
The best substrate for chrysanthemum will be a mixture of equal proportions of peat, humus and soddy soil. During the period of active growth and flowering, it is necessary to feed the plant with complex fertilizer every week. Before this, the soil must be moistened.
After the end of the flowering period, the plant is cut off and left for the winter, and the temperature in this case should be at least +3 degrees. At the end of the cold months, in March, the flower is transplanted into a new soil.
Many have noticed that this indoor flower grows too tall and looks sloppy. To avoid this, chrysanthemum bushes need to be cut in time. Then they will become lush and will look much richer.
reproduction
Chrysanthemum is propagated in two ways: by dividing the bush and cuttings. The first method is considered the most effective. The best moment for its implementation is the stage of active growth. Individual shoots are separated from the bush, immediately planted in the prepared substrate, which is then moistened.
Preparation for propagation by cuttings must begin immediately after flowering. All stems must be cut and left to overwinter the plant in a dark and cool place. In the spring (usually in March) new shoots will appear. They can be safely cut and planted in fresh soil.
From above, the shoots are covered with glass or film, and left for three weeks. The temperature in the room should not exceed 20 degrees. Then you can start transplanting each cutting into a separate pot.
Diseases and pests
When buying a homemade chrysanthemum, you need to carefully examine the plant. It must have a healthy appearance, the presence of any pests on it is unacceptable. Otherwise, such a plant will not only cause a lot of inconvenience, but can also infect other indoor plants.
To avoid this will help the temporary maintenance of the acquired flower separately from all the others. The duration of such a quarantine is about a month. After that, you can safely put the purchased flower along with the rest of the plants.
The most common diseases for domestic chrysanthemums are gray rot or powdery mildew. In the first case, the leaves are affected by a fluffy coating, turning brown at the edges. Spraying with foundation will help with this. In addition, the plant is best placed in a well-ventilated and lit place.
With a disease of powdery mildew, the leaves are covered with a grayish coating. To cure the plant, it is necessary to spray with a fungicide.
Often, indoor chrysanthemums are overcome by pests. For example, aphids, soil flies, spider mites. Insecticide treatment will help get rid of them. These can be drugs such as topaz or actellik.
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